I bought something called a Fixpencil from Lee Valley Tools several
months ago, but have only recently been using it to any great extent.
Basically it is a very solid mechanical pencil that holds 3mm leads -
not 0.3mm - three whole ones. The typical mechanical pencil you see
around the office has a .3 to .7mm lead, and is made of plastic or
flimsy metal. The pencil shown here -
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?page=45504&category=1,42936,43509&ccurrency=2&SID=
- or here
http://tinyurl.com/5txd5
is made of solid aluminum and is basically indestructible. I've sat
on it, dropped it, you name it - it's fine.
While working in a cabinetmaking shop I rarely used it, simply because
there were numerous sharp regular pencils to be grabbed. The
Fixpencil *can* be sharpened to a pretty fine point, but that's not
it's strength. It's strength lies in its ability to mark wood - rough
cut and otherwise - without breaking the lead. I use mine daily on
the construction site and I gotta tell you it's much easier, more
convenient and effective than a carpenter's pencil. Plus it's got a
built in lead sharpener for when you want a finer line - although I
rarely need it.
The cost of the pencil lead refills is a bit shocking, at a full two
bucks a pop, but each one lasts a looooong time. I'm still on the one
that came with the pencil.
The only negative comment I can make is that the advancement mechanism
for the lead isn't the type you can just "click" to advance. You have
to push the button on the end of the pencil in and then sort of tip it
so the lead slides out to the appropriate length. When I first got
the pencil, the lead wasn't exposed and when I pushed the button the
lead shot out and broke into pieces on the floor. (They still worked
when I shovedt them back in though.) Don't worry, it becomes second
nature to slide it out once you've used it. I keep mine in my
carpenters pouch so I leave it advanced, but you should push the lead
back in if you're going to stick it in a back pocket.
For the cabinetmakers, I'd say stick with your marking knives and
recently sharpened wooden pencils. For you framers and carpenters
though, I highly recommend it. It's easy to use, durable, provides an
accurate mark, and it's quick - no more whittling!
JP
**************************
One step up and two steps back.
You can order them all over the web. Lots of colors and hardnesses. Try a
4H for marking dovetails, almost like a knife.
--
Ross
www.myoldtools.com
"Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Thu, 16 Sep 2004 16:24:49 GMT, "John Emmons"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >They also just happen to be on sale at the Rockler stores right now for
> >$3.99, includes an eraser, extra leads and a sharpener.
>
> Wow. That beats 19 clams for the holder and another 2 bucks a pop for
> leads, that's for sure.....
>
> JP
> ******************
> But mine's al-you-minny-um.
>
>
>
>
> >"CW" <no adddress@spam free.com> wrote in message
> >news:[email protected]...
> >> I use a 2mm drafting lead holder. The leads are much more available and
> >are
> >> about $8.00 a dozen. Great durability and a full selection of lead
> >harnesses
> >> to choose from. Rockler has recently started selling one like it.
> >>
> >> "Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >> news:[email protected]...
> >> > I bought something called a Fixpencil from Lee Valley Tools several
> >> > months ago, but have only recently been using it to any great extent.
> >> > Basically it is a very solid mechanical pencil that holds 3mm leads -
> >> > not 0.3mm - three whole ones. The typical mechanical pencil you see
> >> > around the office has a .3 to .7mm lead, and is made of plastic or
> >> > flimsy metal. The pencil shown here -
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
>
>http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?page=45504&category=1,42936,43509&cc
u
> >rrency=2&SID=
> >> > - or here
> >> > http://tinyurl.com/5txd5
> >> > is made of solid aluminum and is basically indestructible. I've sat
> >> > on it, dropped it, you name it - it's fine.
> >> >
> >> > While working in a cabinetmaking shop I rarely used it, simply
because
> >> > there were numerous sharp regular pencils to be grabbed. The
> >> > Fixpencil *can* be sharpened to a pretty fine point, but that's not
> >> > it's strength. It's strength lies in its ability to mark wood -
rough
> >> > cut and otherwise - without breaking the lead. I use mine daily on
> >> > the construction site and I gotta tell you it's much easier, more
> >> > convenient and effective than a carpenter's pencil. Plus it's got a
> >> > built in lead sharpener for when you want a finer line - although I
> >> > rarely need it.
> >> >
> >> > The cost of the pencil lead refills is a bit shocking, at a full two
> >> > bucks a pop, but each one lasts a looooong time. I'm still on the
one
> >> > that came with the pencil.
> >> >
> >> > The only negative comment I can make is that the advancement
mechanism
> >> > for the lead isn't the type you can just "click" to advance. You
have
> >> > to push the button on the end of the pencil in and then sort of tip
it
> >> > so the lead slides out to the appropriate length. When I first got
> >> > the pencil, the lead wasn't exposed and when I pushed the button the
> >> > lead shot out and broke into pieces on the floor. (They still worked
> >> > when I shovedt them back in though.) Don't worry, it becomes second
> >> > nature to slide it out once you've used it. I keep mine in my
> >> > carpenters pouch so I leave it advanced, but you should push the lead
> >> > back in if you're going to stick it in a back pocket.
> >> >
> >> > For the cabinetmakers, I'd say stick with your marking knives and
> >> > recently sharpened wooden pencils. For you framers and carpenters
> >> > though, I highly recommend it. It's easy to use, durable, provides
an
> >> > accurate mark, and it's quick - no more whittling!
> >> >
> >> > JP
> >> > **************************
> >> > One step up and two steps back.
> >>
> >>
> >
>
On Tue, 14 Sep 2004 22:10:52 -0500, Joe Wells <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On Tue, 14 Sep 2004 21:43:55 -0400, Jay Pique wrote:
>
>> I bought something called a Fixpencil from Lee Valley Tools
>
>Looks quite like what I used in drafting classes in high school. There's a
>special sharpener available as well.
This one has a built-in sharpener. You pull the little blue cap off
the end (the thing you push on to advance the lead) and then twist it
around the lead and it puts a nice point on it.
JP
>
> You guys made me think. I always break the .5mm leads if using them
> for woodworking so I pretty much just gave up. Now you made me
> remember way back when I was an auditor. We used a double ended
> mechanical pencil we called a "stick-pen" but has the name "Autopoint"
> written on it. We had red in one end and blue in the other (don't ask,
> it was a long drawn out process for organizing workpapers and audit
> notes). Anyhow I have a couple of them that have sat in the junk
> drawer in my desk at work for the last 15 years along with several
> sets of lead. Drug them out and they are .9mm and seem MUCH sturdier
> than the .5mm stuff. A little further checking found that my Cross
> pencil lead is also .9mm and I have a couple of those laying around
> unused for a decade or so (along with a good bit of spare lead). Now I
> have new shop pencils (at least for a week or so until I lose all
> four).
>
> Dave Hall
I used 0.3mm 0.5mm and 0.7mm leaded pencils in college. The 0.5 would
break often but the 0.7 was very robust. I also used (and still use in
the shop) a 2mm lead holder for general marking, works great!
-Bruce
-----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
-----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----
"Chas Hurst" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Whoops, I just dug out my drafting set and measured a lead, they are indeed
> 2mm.
>
> "Chas Hurst" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
> > "Joe Wells" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > On Tue, 14 Sep 2004 23:36:43 -0400, Chas Hurst wrote:
> > >
> > > >
> > > > "Joe Wells" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > > > news:[email protected]...
> > > >> On Tue, 14 Sep 2004 21:43:55 -0400, Jay Pique wrote:
> > > >>
> > > >> > I bought something called a Fixpencil from Lee Valley Tools
> > > >>
> > > >> Looks quite like what I used in drafting classes in high school.
> There's
> > > >> a special sharpener available as well.
> > > >
> > > > Your drafting lead holder didn't use 3mm leads, but the sharpener
> still
> > > > might work. If you want to carry it around, especially the electric
> one.
> > >
> > > Well, high school was quite a while ago... I guess those were 2mm leads,
> I
> > > doubt the little twirrly sharpener would work. Of course, the
> > > sandpaper-stapled-to-a-board would ;^)
> > >
> > > --
> > > Joe Wells
You guys made me think. I always break the .5mm leads if using them
for woodworking so I pretty much just gave up. Now you made me
remember way back when I was an auditor. We used a double ended
mechanical pencil we called a "stick-pen" but has the name "Autopoint"
written on it. We had red in one end and blue in the other (don't ask,
it was a long drawn out process for organizing workpapers and audit
notes). Anyhow I have a couple of them that have sat in the junk
drawer in my desk at work for the last 15 years along with several
sets of lead. Drug them out and they are .9mm and seem MUCH sturdier
than the .5mm stuff. A little further checking found that my Cross
pencil lead is also .9mm and I have a couple of those laying around
unused for a decade or so (along with a good bit of spare lead). Now I
have new shop pencils (at least for a week or so until I lose all
four).
Dave Hall
While not quite as strong as their 3mm, those 2mm lead holders you mentioned
are cheap and still do a pretty good job in the shop. I got tired of the .5mm
breaking, and all the wood pencils. The 2mm lead is cheap, I use two
hardnesses and colored lead, and clamped a sharpener to my toolbox.
GerryG
On Tue, 14 Sep 2004 22:10:52 -0500, Joe Wells <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Tue, 14 Sep 2004 21:43:55 -0400, Jay Pique wrote:
>
>> I bought something called a Fixpencil from Lee Valley Tools
>
>Looks quite like what I used in drafting classes in high school. There's a
>special sharpener available as well.
Chas Hurst wrote:
[snip]>
> My guess -without measuring- is 1.5 mm. High school for me was shortly after
> the earth cooled, class of '63.
>
> Regards
>
> Chas Hurst
>
I guess the earth was still hot: John Muir High, class of nineteen and
aught fifty seven. Made my way through school doing some drafting and
used the 2mm mechanicals. I had one around here somewheres for a lot of
years. Wonder if my ex didn't get it along with the drafting equipment.
Sigh. Changing the sandpaper in the whirly sharpener was always fun.
mahalo,
jo4hn
Man. All you guys using .5mm pencils and breaking the lead all the time
must be pretty heavy handed. I have three of the Pentel .5mm pencils in my
garage/shop that I use and while I admit the lead breaks on occassion, I am
generally satisfied with them. I use the soft HB lead and the biggest
problem I have is that the leads wear down and I have to stop and extend a
little more lead. I also have a couple of .7mm pencils and I don't think I
have broken the lead marking anything yet.
Lighten up guys. :-)
Wayne
"GerryG" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> While not quite as strong as their 3mm, those 2mm lead holders you
mentioned
> are cheap and still do a pretty good job in the shop. I got tired of the
.5mm
> breaking, and all the wood pencils. The 2mm lead is cheap, I use two
> hardnesses and colored lead, and clamped a sharpener to my toolbox.
> GerryG
>
> On Tue, 14 Sep 2004 22:10:52 -0500, Joe Wells <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
> >On Tue, 14 Sep 2004 21:43:55 -0400, Jay Pique wrote:
> >
> >> I bought something called a Fixpencil from Lee Valley Tools
> >
> >Looks quite like what I used in drafting classes in high school. There's
a
> >special sharpener available as well.
I use a 2mm drafting lead holder. The leads are much more available and are
about $8.00 a dozen. Great durability and a full selection of lead harnesses
to choose from. Rockler has recently started selling one like it.
"Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I bought something called a Fixpencil from Lee Valley Tools several
> months ago, but have only recently been using it to any great extent.
> Basically it is a very solid mechanical pencil that holds 3mm leads -
> not 0.3mm - three whole ones. The typical mechanical pencil you see
> around the office has a .3 to .7mm lead, and is made of plastic or
> flimsy metal. The pencil shown here -
>
>
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?page=45504&category=1,42936,43509&ccurrency=2&SID=
> - or here
> http://tinyurl.com/5txd5
> is made of solid aluminum and is basically indestructible. I've sat
> on it, dropped it, you name it - it's fine.
>
> While working in a cabinetmaking shop I rarely used it, simply because
> there were numerous sharp regular pencils to be grabbed. The
> Fixpencil *can* be sharpened to a pretty fine point, but that's not
> it's strength. It's strength lies in its ability to mark wood - rough
> cut and otherwise - without breaking the lead. I use mine daily on
> the construction site and I gotta tell you it's much easier, more
> convenient and effective than a carpenter's pencil. Plus it's got a
> built in lead sharpener for when you want a finer line - although I
> rarely need it.
>
> The cost of the pencil lead refills is a bit shocking, at a full two
> bucks a pop, but each one lasts a looooong time. I'm still on the one
> that came with the pencil.
>
> The only negative comment I can make is that the advancement mechanism
> for the lead isn't the type you can just "click" to advance. You have
> to push the button on the end of the pencil in and then sort of tip it
> so the lead slides out to the appropriate length. When I first got
> the pencil, the lead wasn't exposed and when I pushed the button the
> lead shot out and broke into pieces on the floor. (They still worked
> when I shovedt them back in though.) Don't worry, it becomes second
> nature to slide it out once you've used it. I keep mine in my
> carpenters pouch so I leave it advanced, but you should push the lead
> back in if you're going to stick it in a back pocket.
>
> For the cabinetmakers, I'd say stick with your marking knives and
> recently sharpened wooden pencils. For you framers and carpenters
> though, I highly recommend it. It's easy to use, durable, provides an
> accurate mark, and it's quick - no more whittling!
>
> JP
> **************************
> One step up and two steps back.
Whoops, I just dug out my drafting set and measured a lead, they are indeed
2mm.
"Chas Hurst" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Joe Wells" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > On Tue, 14 Sep 2004 23:36:43 -0400, Chas Hurst wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > "Joe Wells" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > > news:[email protected]...
> > >> On Tue, 14 Sep 2004 21:43:55 -0400, Jay Pique wrote:
> > >>
> > >> > I bought something called a Fixpencil from Lee Valley Tools
> > >>
> > >> Looks quite like what I used in drafting classes in high school.
> There's
> > >> a special sharpener available as well.
> > >
> > > Your drafting lead holder didn't use 3mm leads, but the sharpener
still
> > > might work. If you want to carry it around, especially the electric
one.
> >
> > Well, high school was quite a while ago... I guess those were 2mm leads,
I
> > doubt the little twirrly sharpener would work. Of course, the
> > sandpaper-stapled-to-a-board would ;^)
> >
> > --
> > Joe Wells
>
> My guess -without measuring- is 1.5 mm. High school for me was shortly
after
> the earth cooled, class of '63.
>
> Regards
>
> Chas Hurst
>
>
On Thu, 16 Sep 2004 16:24:49 GMT, "John Emmons"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>They also just happen to be on sale at the Rockler stores right now for
>$3.99, includes an eraser, extra leads and a sharpener.
Wow. That beats 19 clams for the holder and another 2 bucks a pop for
leads, that's for sure.....
JP
******************
But mine's al-you-minny-um.
>"CW" <no adddress@spam free.com> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> I use a 2mm drafting lead holder. The leads are much more available and
>are
>> about $8.00 a dozen. Great durability and a full selection of lead
>harnesses
>> to choose from. Rockler has recently started selling one like it.
>>
>> "Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>> > I bought something called a Fixpencil from Lee Valley Tools several
>> > months ago, but have only recently been using it to any great extent.
>> > Basically it is a very solid mechanical pencil that holds 3mm leads -
>> > not 0.3mm - three whole ones. The typical mechanical pencil you see
>> > around the office has a .3 to .7mm lead, and is made of plastic or
>> > flimsy metal. The pencil shown here -
>> >
>> >
>>
>http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?page=45504&category=1,42936,43509&ccu
>rrency=2&SID=
>> > - or here
>> > http://tinyurl.com/5txd5
>> > is made of solid aluminum and is basically indestructible. I've sat
>> > on it, dropped it, you name it - it's fine.
>> >
>> > While working in a cabinetmaking shop I rarely used it, simply because
>> > there were numerous sharp regular pencils to be grabbed. The
>> > Fixpencil *can* be sharpened to a pretty fine point, but that's not
>> > it's strength. It's strength lies in its ability to mark wood - rough
>> > cut and otherwise - without breaking the lead. I use mine daily on
>> > the construction site and I gotta tell you it's much easier, more
>> > convenient and effective than a carpenter's pencil. Plus it's got a
>> > built in lead sharpener for when you want a finer line - although I
>> > rarely need it.
>> >
>> > The cost of the pencil lead refills is a bit shocking, at a full two
>> > bucks a pop, but each one lasts a looooong time. I'm still on the one
>> > that came with the pencil.
>> >
>> > The only negative comment I can make is that the advancement mechanism
>> > for the lead isn't the type you can just "click" to advance. You have
>> > to push the button on the end of the pencil in and then sort of tip it
>> > so the lead slides out to the appropriate length. When I first got
>> > the pencil, the lead wasn't exposed and when I pushed the button the
>> > lead shot out and broke into pieces on the floor. (They still worked
>> > when I shovedt them back in though.) Don't worry, it becomes second
>> > nature to slide it out once you've used it. I keep mine in my
>> > carpenters pouch so I leave it advanced, but you should push the lead
>> > back in if you're going to stick it in a back pocket.
>> >
>> > For the cabinetmakers, I'd say stick with your marking knives and
>> > recently sharpened wooden pencils. For you framers and carpenters
>> > though, I highly recommend it. It's easy to use, durable, provides an
>> > accurate mark, and it's quick - no more whittling!
>> >
>> > JP
>> > **************************
>> > One step up and two steps back.
>>
>>
>
On Wed, 15 Sep 2004 18:10:55 GMT, "NoOne N Particular"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Man. All you guys using .5mm pencils and breaking the lead all the time
>must be pretty heavy handed. I have three of the Pentel .5mm pencils in my
>garage/shop that I use and while I admit the lead breaks on occassion, I am
>generally satisfied with them. I use the soft HB lead and the biggest
>problem I have is that the leads wear down and I have to stop and extend a
>little more lead. I also have a couple of .7mm pencils and I don't think I
>have broken the lead marking anything yet.
>
>Lighten up guys. :-)
>
>Wayne
I find the .5's a little too breakable but the .7's work just fine for
me.
-- jc
Published e-mail address is strictly for spam collection.
If e-mailing me, please use jc631 at optonline dot net
On Wed, 15 Sep 2004 18:10:55 GMT, "NoOne N Particular"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Man. All you guys using .5mm pencils and breaking the lead all the time
>must be pretty heavy handed.
It depends on the wood.
I can write on ply, MDF, or planed birch, maple, bass, or cherry all
day long with a .5 mm pencil.
Oak, ash, mahogany and any wood that hasn't been over the thickness
planer or jointer breaks a lot of lead.
I usually use crayons on rough wood. <G>
Barry
They also just happen to be on sale at the Rockler stores right now for
$3.99, includes an eraser, extra leads and a sharpener.
John Emmons
"CW" <no adddress@spam free.com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I use a 2mm drafting lead holder. The leads are much more available and
are
> about $8.00 a dozen. Great durability and a full selection of lead
harnesses
> to choose from. Rockler has recently started selling one like it.
>
> "Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I bought something called a Fixpencil from Lee Valley Tools several
> > months ago, but have only recently been using it to any great extent.
> > Basically it is a very solid mechanical pencil that holds 3mm leads -
> > not 0.3mm - three whole ones. The typical mechanical pencil you see
> > around the office has a .3 to .7mm lead, and is made of plastic or
> > flimsy metal. The pencil shown here -
> >
> >
>
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?page=45504&category=1,42936,43509&ccu
rrency=2&SID=
> > - or here
> > http://tinyurl.com/5txd5
> > is made of solid aluminum and is basically indestructible. I've sat
> > on it, dropped it, you name it - it's fine.
> >
> > While working in a cabinetmaking shop I rarely used it, simply because
> > there were numerous sharp regular pencils to be grabbed. The
> > Fixpencil *can* be sharpened to a pretty fine point, but that's not
> > it's strength. It's strength lies in its ability to mark wood - rough
> > cut and otherwise - without breaking the lead. I use mine daily on
> > the construction site and I gotta tell you it's much easier, more
> > convenient and effective than a carpenter's pencil. Plus it's got a
> > built in lead sharpener for when you want a finer line - although I
> > rarely need it.
> >
> > The cost of the pencil lead refills is a bit shocking, at a full two
> > bucks a pop, but each one lasts a looooong time. I'm still on the one
> > that came with the pencil.
> >
> > The only negative comment I can make is that the advancement mechanism
> > for the lead isn't the type you can just "click" to advance. You have
> > to push the button on the end of the pencil in and then sort of tip it
> > so the lead slides out to the appropriate length. When I first got
> > the pencil, the lead wasn't exposed and when I pushed the button the
> > lead shot out and broke into pieces on the floor. (They still worked
> > when I shovedt them back in though.) Don't worry, it becomes second
> > nature to slide it out once you've used it. I keep mine in my
> > carpenters pouch so I leave it advanced, but you should push the lead
> > back in if you're going to stick it in a back pocket.
> >
> > For the cabinetmakers, I'd say stick with your marking knives and
> > recently sharpened wooden pencils. For you framers and carpenters
> > though, I highly recommend it. It's easy to use, durable, provides an
> > accurate mark, and it's quick - no more whittling!
> >
> > JP
> > **************************
> > One step up and two steps back.
>
>
"Joe Wells" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Tue, 14 Sep 2004 21:43:55 -0400, Jay Pique wrote:
>
> > I bought something called a Fixpencil from Lee Valley Tools
>
> Looks quite like what I used in drafting classes in high school. There's a
> special sharpener available as well.
>
> --
> Joe Wells
Your drafting lead holder didn't use 3mm leads, but the sharpener still
might work. If you want to carry it around, especially the electric one.
Chas Hurst
On Tue, 14 Sep 2004 23:36:43 -0400, Chas Hurst wrote:
>
> "Joe Wells" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> On Tue, 14 Sep 2004 21:43:55 -0400, Jay Pique wrote:
>>
>> > I bought something called a Fixpencil from Lee Valley Tools
>>
>> Looks quite like what I used in drafting classes in high school. There's
>> a special sharpener available as well.
>
> Your drafting lead holder didn't use 3mm leads, but the sharpener still
> might work. If you want to carry it around, especially the electric one.
Well, high school was quite a while ago... I guess those were 2mm leads, I
doubt the little twirrly sharpener would work. Of course, the
sandpaper-stapled-to-a-board would ;^)
--
Joe Wells
On 15-Sep-2004, jo4hn <[email protected]> wrote:
> class of nineteen and aught fifty seven
19057? Wow - so they have time machines in the future?
Why would you come back here?
Mike
"Joe Wells" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Tue, 14 Sep 2004 23:36:43 -0400, Chas Hurst wrote:
>
> >
> > "Joe Wells" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> >> On Tue, 14 Sep 2004 21:43:55 -0400, Jay Pique wrote:
> >>
> >> > I bought something called a Fixpencil from Lee Valley Tools
> >>
> >> Looks quite like what I used in drafting classes in high school.
There's
> >> a special sharpener available as well.
> >
> > Your drafting lead holder didn't use 3mm leads, but the sharpener still
> > might work. If you want to carry it around, especially the electric one.
>
> Well, high school was quite a while ago... I guess those were 2mm leads, I
> doubt the little twirrly sharpener would work. Of course, the
> sandpaper-stapled-to-a-board would ;^)
>
> --
> Joe Wells
My guess -without measuring- is 1.5 mm. High school for me was shortly after
the earth cooled, class of '63.
Regards
Chas Hurst