"Greg Guarino" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:4db6c73c-f2e6-4672-a314-a62b0bfbbc45@r14g2000vbe.googlegroups.com...
> Context:Plywood built-in bookcases.
>
> I assume I should seal all surfaces in some way, even though the top,
> bottom, back and one side will never be seen. True? If so, what should
> I use? If it simply doesn't matter, I'll probably try to use up some
> cans of whatever is on hand.
Shellac.
"Greg Guarino" wrote:
> Well that was my guess when I asked for suggestions in the first
> place, but I'm asking now why shellac is a good choice as opposed to
> something else.
------------------------------------------
Lew Hodgett wrote:
> Low cost
>
> Dries quickly
>
> Seals surface
>
> Prevents bleed thru.
>
> Lew
-----------------------------------------------
"Greg Guarino" wrote:
> Thank you.
---------------------------------------------------
SFWIW, I go to the local Harbor Freight and buy 2" chip brushes
by the dozen.
They work well for slathering on shellac. (Pick off the bristles that
shed).
Cut the dewaxed shellac to 1# with denatured alcohol and apply
liberally.
Apply several coats and wait 3-4 weeks before rubbing out as needed.
I'm no finishing genius but it works for me.
Have fun.
Lew
On Tuesday, December 18, 2012 4:45:28 AM UTC-8, Greg Guarino wrote:
> Context:Plywood built-in bookcases. I assume I should seal all surfaces i=
n some way, even though the top, bottom, back and one side will never be se=
en. True? If so, what should I use? If it simply doesn't matter, I'll proba=
bly try to use up some cans of whatever is on hand.
FYI, no profesional cabinet shop is finishing unseen faces. Ply won't warp =
like solid wood. Really not necessary unless you have some extreme conditio=
n backed against a slurry wall or some other severe moisture situation.
On Tue, 18 Dec 2012 09:19:29 -0500, Baron wrote:
>> Context:Plywood built-in bookcases.
>>
>> I assume I should seal all surfaces in some way, even though the top,
>> bottom, back and one side will never be seen. True? If so, what should
>> I use? If it simply doesn't matter, I'll probably try to use up some
>> cans of whatever is on hand.
>
> Shellac.
Dewaxed.
--
When fascism comes to America, it will be wrapped in the flag and
carrying a cross.
On 12/18/2012 11:58 AM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
> On Tue, 18 Dec 2012 09:19:29 -0500, Baron wrote:
>
>>> Context:Plywood built-in bookcases.
>>>
>>> I assume I should seal all surfaces in some way, even though the top,
>>> bottom, back and one side will never be seen. True? If so, what should
>>> I use? If it simply doesn't matter, I'll probably try to use up some
>>> cans of whatever is on hand.
>>
>> Shellac.
>
> Dewaxed.
>
My experience is limited and I don't think I've used shellac since the
jewelry box I made in the 7th grade. (seriously, 1970) It's hard to
remember, and things may have changed. So tell me why I should buy some
for the unseen areas, other than to have yet another thing to finish
test pieces with.
On 12/18/2012 11:52 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> On 12/18/2012 11:58 AM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
>> On Tue, 18 Dec 2012 09:19:29 -0500, Baron wrote:
>>
>>>> Context:Plywood built-in bookcases.
>>>>
>>>> I assume I should seal all surfaces in some way, even though the top,
>>>> bottom, back and one side will never be seen. True? If so, what should
>>>> I use? If it simply doesn't matter, I'll probably try to use up some
>>>> cans of whatever is on hand.
>>>
>>> Shellac.
>>
>> Dewaxed.
>>
> My experience is limited and I don't think I've used shellac since the
> jewelry box I made in the 7th grade. (seriously, 1970) It's hard to
> remember, and things may have changed. So tell me why I should buy some
> for the unseen areas, other than to have yet another thing to finish
> test pieces with.
uneven migration of moisture causes warping. the rule is to finish all
sides of everything, including non-visible areas to prevent that.
On 12/18/2012 4:14 PM, chaniarts wrote:
> On 12/18/2012 11:52 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
>> On 12/18/2012 11:58 AM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
>>> On Tue, 18 Dec 2012 09:19:29 -0500, Baron wrote:
>>>
>>>>> Context:Plywood built-in bookcases.
>>>>>
>>>>> I assume I should seal all surfaces in some way, even though the top,
>>>>> bottom, back and one side will never be seen. True? If so, what should
>>>>> I use? If it simply doesn't matter, I'll probably try to use up some
>>>>> cans of whatever is on hand.
>>>>
>>>> Shellac.
>>>
>>> Dewaxed.
>>>
>> My experience is limited and I don't think I've used shellac since the
>> jewelry box I made in the 7th grade. (seriously, 1970) It's hard to
>> remember, and things may have changed. So tell me why I should buy some
>> for the unseen areas, other than to have yet another thing to finish
>> test pieces with.
>
> uneven migration of moisture causes warping. the rule is to finish all
> sides of everything, including non-visible areas to prevent that.
Well that was my guess when I asked for suggestions in the first place,
but I'm asking now why shellac is a good choice as opposed to something
else.
On 12/18/2012 5:00 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
> "Greg Guarino" wrote:
>
>> Well that was my guess when I asked for suggestions in the first
>> place, but I'm asking now why shellac is a good choice as opposed to
>> something else.
> ------------------------------------------
> Low cost
>
> Dries quickly
>
> Seals surface
>
> Prevents bleed thru.
>
> Lew
Thank you.
On Tue, 18 Dec 2012 16:52:41 -0500, Greg Guarino wrote:
> Well that was my guess when I asked for suggestions in the first place,
> but I'm asking now why shellac is a good choice as opposed to something
> else.
Because it seals against moisture vapor better than anything else,
although poly comes close. But shellac wipes on with a rag and dries
almost instantly. Pick up a can of Zinsser SealCoat and give it a try.
Read the fine print - it says it's a 2 pound cut of dewaxed shellac. Get
it somewhere with a good turnover - old cans don't dry well if they're
over 2 years old.
--
When fascism comes to America, it will be wrapped in the flag and
carrying a cross.