Mike Marlow wrote:
> Len wrote:
>> I am spraying some new cabinets with Resisthane Plus. The sequence I
>> am using is:
>>
>> 0) sand smooth
>> 1) spray water based dye for color
>> 1a) warm the Resisthane and cabinets to about 80 degrees.
>> 2) spray a sealer coat of Resisthane
>> 3) lightly sand to get rid of any fuzz from raising grain
>> again
>> 4) spray 2 coats of Resisthane.
>> 5) sand until surface is smooth - remove 75% of "bumps".
>> 6) rub with steel wool until smooth and no "bumps"
>> 7) wax
>>
>> It is a lot of work. I am using a 4 stage Fuji HVLP gun. The
>> Resisthane seems to go on wet and dries in about 30 minutes. I
>> re-spray after a couple of hours and am surprised that the "bumps"
>> appear after step 3. Do I need to thin the Resisthane? Spray more
>> coats before it will level? Any help would be appreciated
>
> Can you take a pictiure of the "bumps"? It's hard to guess at what
> you mean by that term since it can mean so many things. Here's a
> couple of ideas to get thouhghts going... (BTW - I have no idea what
> Resisthane is, or how it behaves)...
>
> 1) If it's orange peel, which is what you commonly see in car
> finishes, and literally looks like the surface of an orange peel,
> then that's a sign that your first coat was put on too dry. It's not
> likely you will fill that kind of a surface to your liking with just
> added coats, before you find yourself with too much build up. You
> can shoot a couple of heavy coats on, and then knock it down with
> 1000 grit until it is dead flat, and then out on a good medium wet to
> wet coat or two. Or, you can just knock down what you have now with
> 1000 grit and go back at it in the same way.
> 2) If the bumps are dust nibs, just knock them down dead flat with
> 1000 grit and then buff it back to the shine you want with rubbing
> compound.
> 3) Make sure you follow the manufacturer's instructions for recoats.
> If they tell you 10 minutes, then do that. If they tell you to scuff
> the surface after 2 hours, then do that. Most importantly, follow
> their instructions on thinning.
>
> 4) No need to thin for the final coats as long as it is shooting
> well. Regulate your speed to get a heavier and even coat on. Watch
> your pattern as it goes down. Make sure you are getting a 50%
> overlap and that you are getting a good wet coat. Your should feel
> like you are pulling a very thin sheet of plastic over the piece as
> you spray. There is no getting around watching your spray go down. You
> absolutely have to watch in order to know how fast to move your
> gun.
> Most people make the mistake of shooting too light of a coat and they
> create things like orange peel. A good medium wet coat will cover
> and lay out flat, while still being light enough so that it does not
> sag or run.
Hey Len - how did you make out?
--
-Mike-
[email protected]