I asked Marc Sommerfeld if drilling and tapping the insert plate for their 999.501.19
Industrio phenolic top to accept my Bosch 1617 router base could be done by them as
Woodhaven offers. Their answer, by Marilyn, was: "Marc is only one, and doesn't have
a lot of woodworking people working for him. If he started this, it would be endless
for him."
Now I am in a real quandary. I want Sommerfeld's phenolic top, and not the Woodhaven
top, but I am anxious of doing the drilling and tapping myself. That assumption is
based upon my recent failure in that aspect. I assume Woodhaven's phenolic insert
plate would not fit properly, if at all, into the opening in the Sommerfeld top.
I could just take the insert and router to my local machine shop and have them do the
drilling and tapping of the insert plate.
Now for my questions: Do any of you have the Sommerfeld Industrio system and how do
you like it? If so, how did you get it to accept your router?
Hoyt W.
Hoyt;
I understand your panic but having done it 4 or 5 times, there is no need to
be so anxious...but I do understand why. It was scary the first time.
But, take it slow, use or maje a pattern, drill carefully and know that if
you screw up, you have a 2nd and even thrid chance.
I have screwed up and simply filled the beautiful phenolic surface with dark
shellac stick...could have used a number of things. It was as smooth as the
surface so no harm done.
"<<<__ Bob __>>>" wrote:
> O have the older top with no insert plate and I love it .. .. heavy,
> flat, and no warpage .. .. ..
>
> I use a Bosch 1615 and had no trouble mounting it .. .. .. simply pick
> up 4 set screws that are the same as the existing baseplate mounting
> screws (7mm I believe, maybe 8) .. .. chuck them up one at a time in
> a drill, and sharpen them to a point by grinding the tips with the
> drill running. Thread them into the tapped holes in the body of the
> Bosch until the tip barely protrudes from it. Set the routher in
> position, slowly advance each setscrew a few turns, and tap each one
> with a punch/hammer, making a precise prick mark. Use this mark as a
> guide and drill the hole .. .. .. no problem. I don't know why you
> would want the holes tapped though .. .. on mine, the holes in the
> phenolic are clearanced and the screws go throught the top and into
> the Bosch base from the top - downward.
>
> On Fri, 02 Jul 2004 12:26:30 -0500, Hoyt Weathers <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >I asked Marc Sommerfeld if drilling and tapping the insert plate for their 999.501.19
> >Industrio phenolic top to accept my Bosch 1617 router base could be done by them as
> >Woodhaven offers. Their answer, by Marilyn, was: "Marc is only one, and doesn't have
> >a lot of woodworking people working for him. If he started this, it would be endless
> >for him."
> >
> >Now I am in a real quandary. I want Sommerfeld's phenolic top, and not the Woodhaven
> >top, but I am anxious of doing the drilling and tapping myself. That assumption is
> >based upon my recent failure in that aspect. I assume Woodhaven's phenolic insert
> >plate would not fit properly, if at all, into the opening in the Sommerfeld top.
> >
> >I could just take the insert and router to my local machine shop and have them do the
> >drilling and tapping of the insert plate.
> >
> >Now for my questions: Do any of you have the Sommerfeld Industrio system and how do
> >you like it? If so, how did you get it to accept your router?
> >
> >Hoyt W.
TKX "Bob"
Two points:
1. My Bosch 1617 has 4 mm screws into the base plate. That does not matter.
2. What *does* matter, and very much so, is your suggestion of sharpening the screw tips.
That would allow me to insert them from the upper side of the router base, position the
base properly, and then tap each one with a hammer to make a depression mark. All of that
without moving the base one iota. That should certainly work. Then just drill clearance
holes in the insert plate from the bottom using the drill press. Then countersink the
holes for suitable 4 mm screws on top of the insert, insert the said screws through those
holes and into the bottom of the router base- snug it up well. Voila! That should do it.
I just did not have that "flash of the obvious." "Too soon old and too late smart"
I greatly appreciate your reply.
Hoyt W.
"Mark L." wrote:
> <<<__ Bob __>>> wrote:
> > O have the older top with no insert plate and I love it .. .. heavy,
> > flat, and no warpage .. .. ..
> >
> > I use a Bosch 1615 and had no trouble mounting it .. .. .. simply pick
> > up 4 set screws that are the same as the existing baseplate mounting
> > screws (7mm I believe, maybe 8) .. .. chuck them up one at a time in
> > a drill, and sharpen them to a point by grinding the tips with the
> > drill running.
>
> Actually, if you aren't careful, the points on the set screws may not
> wind up being concentric with the threads. This would result in
> locating the holes in the wrong place. If you use regular cup point set
> screws, there is no need to put points on. They have a concave point
> which is already concentric and will make a circular impression. All
> you need to do is to put your center punch inside of this small
> impression, I do this all the time in metal and it's easily accurate
> enough for router mounting.
> Mark L.
TKX Mark,
Where do I find cup point set screws? HD or Lowes, Ace Hardware or ? I've never heard
of them before. Your advise sounds valid though and I wish to follow it. Thanks
again.
Hoyt W.
"Mark L." wrote:
> I'd try an Ace hardware 1st. The typical set screw is a cup point. All
> of the set screws I use are cup point, although we get them from an
> industrial supplier. Secondly, try a borg. Thirdly, if you really
> can't find them, I can throw a few in an envelope and mail them to you.
> Mark L.
>
TKX Mark. I will start with Ace Hardware, then go to HD and/or Lowes if I wash out at A.H.
. I hope one of the 3 has them in the M4 size I need for my router base. I sharpened the
tips of the M4 screws I have as suggested by "Bob." I think I will try the cup point set
screws and the pointed ones I made - all on a test piece for a trial run. From that test,
I should be able to discern which works best for me.
Hoyt W.
I'd try an Ace hardware 1st. The typical set screw is a cup point. All
of the set screws I use are cup point, although we get them from an
industrial supplier. Secondly, try a borg. Thirdly, if you really
can't find them, I can throw a few in an envelope and mail them to you.
Mark L.
Hoyt Weathers wrote:
> "Mark L." wrote:
>
>
>><<<__ Bob __>>> wrote:
>>
>>>O have the older top with no insert plate and I love it .. .. heavy,
>>>flat, and no warpage .. .. ..
>>>
>>>I use a Bosch 1615 and had no trouble mounting it .. .. .. simply pick
>>>up 4 set screws that are the same as the existing baseplate mounting
>>>screws (7mm I believe, maybe 8) .. .. chuck them up one at a time in
>>>a drill, and sharpen them to a point by grinding the tips with the
>>>drill running.
>>
>>Actually, if you aren't careful, the points on the set screws may not
>>wind up being concentric with the threads. This would result in
>>locating the holes in the wrong place. If you use regular cup point set
>>screws, there is no need to put points on. They have a concave point
>>which is already concentric and will make a circular impression. All
>>you need to do is to put your center punch inside of this small
>>impression, I do this all the time in metal and it's easily accurate
>>enough for router mounting.
>> Mark L.
>
>
> TKX Mark,
>
> Where do I find cup point set screws? HD or Lowes, Ace Hardware or ? I've never heard
> of them before. Your advise sounds valid though and I wish to follow it. Thanks
> again.
>
> Hoyt W.
>
>
>
>
<<<__ Bob __>>> wrote:
> O have the older top with no insert plate and I love it .. .. heavy,
> flat, and no warpage .. .. ..
>
> I use a Bosch 1615 and had no trouble mounting it .. .. .. simply pick
> up 4 set screws that are the same as the existing baseplate mounting
> screws (7mm I believe, maybe 8) .. .. chuck them up one at a time in
> a drill, and sharpen them to a point by grinding the tips with the
> drill running.
Actually, if you aren't careful, the points on the set screws may not
wind up being concentric with the threads. This would result in
locating the holes in the wrong place. If you use regular cup point set
screws, there is no need to put points on. They have a concave point
which is already concentric and will make a circular impression. All
you need to do is to put your center punch inside of this small
impression, I do this all the time in metal and it's easily accurate
enough for router mounting.
Mark L.
O have the older top with no insert plate and I love it .. .. heavy,
flat, and no warpage .. .. ..
I use a Bosch 1615 and had no trouble mounting it .. .. .. simply pick
up 4 set screws that are the same as the existing baseplate mounting
screws (7mm I believe, maybe 8) .. .. chuck them up one at a time in
a drill, and sharpen them to a point by grinding the tips with the
drill running. Thread them into the tapped holes in the body of the
Bosch until the tip barely protrudes from it. Set the routher in
position, slowly advance each setscrew a few turns, and tap each one
with a punch/hammer, making a precise prick mark. Use this mark as a
guide and drill the hole .. .. .. no problem. I don't know why you
would want the holes tapped though .. .. on mine, the holes in the
phenolic are clearanced and the screws go throught the top and into
the Bosch base from the top - downward.
On Fri, 02 Jul 2004 12:26:30 -0500, Hoyt Weathers <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I asked Marc Sommerfeld if drilling and tapping the insert plate for their 999.501.19
>Industrio phenolic top to accept my Bosch 1617 router base could be done by them as
>Woodhaven offers. Their answer, by Marilyn, was: "Marc is only one, and doesn't have
>a lot of woodworking people working for him. If he started this, it would be endless
>for him."
>
>Now I am in a real quandary. I want Sommerfeld's phenolic top, and not the Woodhaven
>top, but I am anxious of doing the drilling and tapping myself. That assumption is
>based upon my recent failure in that aspect. I assume Woodhaven's phenolic insert
>plate would not fit properly, if at all, into the opening in the Sommerfeld top.
>
>I could just take the insert and router to my local machine shop and have them do the
>drilling and tapping of the insert plate.
>
>Now for my questions: Do any of you have the Sommerfeld Industrio system and how do
>you like it? If so, how did you get it to accept your router?
>
>Hoyt W.
If you are talking about a plate that can be easily drilled, you do not
necessarily need to use the same style screws that most of the plates are
predrilled for.
I drill 1/2" holes deep enough that a "Bolt" head will be below the surface.
I drill this with a forsner bit. Then I drill the holes for the bolts over
sized so that alignment is not critical. The flat bottom bolts heads can
wiggle within the 1/2" wide holes until you tighten them down with a socket.
No real need to countersink the holes as this truly does require precise
location of the holes.