I'm getting ready to make my front doors out of Teak. Quantity of wood is
not a problem.
Need help on what sort of glue/epoxy to use, and some ideas about
construction, and some ideas on finish. Have already puchased a couple of
books on the subject, just wanted to ask the real world folks what they've
found work best.
Standard door size, 30x7' or so tall. Live near Tampa, FL, front door faces
north.
"Jim Wilson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> wrote...
> > I'm getting ready to make my front doors out of Teak. Quantity of wood
is
> > not a problem.
> >
> > Need help on what sort of glue/epoxy to use, and some ideas about
> > construction, and some ideas on finish. Have already puchased a couple
of
> > books on the subject, just wanted to ask the real world folks what
they've
> > found work best.
>
> epoxy: use System 3. Get a pint of #1 and #3 hardeners, so you can dial
> in the cure time. (#2 can be made from 1 & 3, so you don't need any of
> that). Go with epoxy. You really want to be able to control the set time.
>
> construction: mortise and loose tenons. Be sure your material is flat
> before assembly. Replace any pieces that warp after sizing; don't try to
> "fix" them.
>
> finish: Use Hydrocote as the final step. The Polyseal is good for
> exterior applications, and will keep Teak from graying for a long time.
> If you want a warmer look, use an oil finish (e.g., tung) first. (Marine
> varnish is also supposed to be an option, but I haven't used it in this
> application, and suspect the durability wouldn't be as good. Anybody
> else? Feel free to correct me on this.)
>
> > Standard door size, 30x7' or so tall.
>
> It's a pair of doors? Otherwise, 30" is a bit narrow. Should be 36" if
> only one.
>
> One final suggestion: making the sill from the same wood really finishes
> out the entry nicely.
>
> Here's a short web page on an entry door I made last winter. It's
> basically a reprint of a message I posted here recently, with a couple
> pictures embedded.
>
> http://www.paragoncode.com/woodworking/entry_door
>
> Fun project, and rewarding.
>
> Jim
I go along with Jim on this I haven't used system 3 but I have used West,
due to the oily nature of teak I rubbed the joint areas with alchol before
applying adhesive. Don't know for System 3 but with West you apply a
wetting coat to both surfaces first and let it dry, as Teak is quite
absorbant this is to ensure that that the wood doesn't absorbe all the glue
and leave you with a glue starved joint.
Also I presume you will be making through tenons and these I would wedge.
Most of the teak work I did was for boat work where exterior work is left
untreated, except for a scrub with salt water, bright work was finished with
exterior spar varnish.
Bernard R
In article <[email protected]>,
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I'm getting ready to make my front doors out of Teak. Quantity of wood is
>not a problem.
>
>Need help on what sort of glue/epoxy to use, and some ideas about
>construction, and some ideas on finish. Have already puchased a couple of
>books on the subject, just wanted to ask the real world folks what they've
>found work best.
>
>Standard door size, 30x7' or so tall. Live near Tampa, FL, front door faces
>north.
>
>
For the adhesive, dare I suggest "Teak-y Tacky"? <grin>
For finish, there's always paint. BUT, assuming you want to show off the
natural wood, use a good U.V. resistant marine spar varnish. Lots of thin
coats.
wrote...
> I'm getting ready to make my front doors out of Teak. Quantity of wood is
> not a problem.
>
> Need help on what sort of glue/epoxy to use, and some ideas about
> construction, and some ideas on finish. Have already puchased a couple of
> books on the subject, just wanted to ask the real world folks what they've
> found work best.
epoxy: use System 3. Get a pint of #1 and #3 hardeners, so you can dial
in the cure time. (#2 can be made from 1 & 3, so you don't need any of
that). Go with epoxy. You really want to be able to control the set time.
construction: mortise and loose tenons. Be sure your material is flat
before assembly. Replace any pieces that warp after sizing; don't try to
"fix" them.
finish: Use Hydrocote as the final step. The Polyseal is good for
exterior applications, and will keep Teak from graying for a long time.
If you want a warmer look, use an oil finish (e.g., tung) first. (Marine
varnish is also supposed to be an option, but I haven't used it in this
application, and suspect the durability wouldn't be as good. Anybody
else? Feel free to correct me on this.)
> Standard door size, 30x7' or so tall.
It's a pair of doors? Otherwise, 30" is a bit narrow. Should be 36" if
only one.
One final suggestion: making the sill from the same wood really finishes
out the entry nicely.
Here's a short web page on an entry door I made last winter. It's
basically a reprint of a message I posted here recently, with a couple
pictures embedded.
http://www.paragoncode.com/woodworking/entry_door
Fun project, and rewarding.
Jim
Will defer to others on adhesives, but you should consider Sikkens Cetol
for the finish. It is an exterior varnish. I used it on a pair of
mahogany front doors four years ago and it still looks great.
[email protected] wrote:
> I'm getting ready to make my front doors out of Teak. Quantity of wood is
> not a problem.
>
> Need help on what sort of glue/epoxy to use, and some ideas about
> construction, and some ideas on finish. Have already puchased a couple of
> books on the subject, just wanted to ask the real world folks what they've
> found work best.
>
> Standard door size, 30x7' or so tall. Live near Tampa, FL, front door faces
> north.
>
>