Went to look at a Delta 8" jointer from a local shop that was closing, and
ended up purchasing all the machinery and attachments. [ Not a gloat, since
I think the price, while good, was fair ].
I'm new to this, having decided last fall to find something to do during
the rainy weekends here in CT. And now, I guess I've jumped into the
deep end.
Assuming I'm going to move this myself, what is the best way to do it?
I can rent a truck (possibly one with a rear lift), but what is the best way
to move the machines in such a way that they survive the trip (~65 miles)?
Two of the pieces are heavy (jointer, unisaw). And two are probably
top-heavy (jet 18" bandsaw, drill press).
I can probably get mobile bases for them (which I need to have eventually
anyway), but do I want to transport them in the truck that way? Once in
the truck, will lashing them to the sides of the truck be sufficient to
keep them in place?
And for getting them in the truck in the first place, if I don't use
mobile bases, will a dolly and 2 healthy bodies be able to safely move
them w/o damaging the bases? I've never tried to move a machine with
a dolly before.
Thanks for any experiences you can share.
Todd Mummert
[email protected]
You didn't really say just how many items. But just with the few you
mentioned I suggest you visit Ryder, or whatever equivalent you have where
you are, and rent an enclosed moving van with lift gate. I would not put
that stuff in an open pickup truck for a 65 mile trip. The van will come
with pads and wall straps so you can properly secure your treasure. For a
single day it should not cost all that much, compared to what you have
already spent.
--
Bill Pounds (who moved household, including full shop, just 9 months ago)
http://www.billpounds.com/woodshop
"Todd Mummert" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Went to look at a Delta 8" jointer from a local shop that was closing, and
> ended up purchasing all the machinery and attachments. [ Not a gloat,
since
> I think the price, while good, was fair ].
>
> I'm new to this, having decided last fall to find something to do during
> the rainy weekends here in CT. And now, I guess I've jumped into the
> deep end.
>
> Assuming I'm going to move this myself, what is the best way to do it?
> I can rent a truck (possibly one with a rear lift), but what is the best
way
> to move the machines in such a way that they survive the trip (~65 miles)?
> Two of the pieces are heavy (jointer, unisaw). And two are probably
> top-heavy (jet 18" bandsaw, drill press).
>
> I can probably get mobile bases for them (which I need to have eventually
> anyway), but do I want to transport them in the truck that way? Once in
> the truck, will lashing them to the sides of the truck be sufficient to
> keep them in place?
>
> And for getting them in the truck in the first place, if I don't use
> mobile bases, will a dolly and 2 healthy bodies be able to safely move
> them w/o damaging the bases? I've never tried to move a machine with
> a dolly before.
>
> Thanks for any experiences you can share.
>
> Todd Mummert
> [email protected]
You're right. I shouldn't have said I wouldn't do it in an open truck. In
fact I have done it a few times. My point is about convenience. The lift
gate makes this an easy loading job, and there is no need to disassemble
anything, also a convenience.
On a side note, have you noticed that friends who will help you move get
scarcer as you get older? Pizza and beer just don't draw a crowd like it
did when we were younger.
--
Bill Pounds
http://www.billpounds.com/woodshop
"Charlie Self" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Bill Pounds writes:
>
> > would not put
> >that stuff in an open pickup truck for a 65 mile trip. The van will come
> >with pads and wall straps so you can properly secure your treasure.
>
> Huh? The van is best, but 2 weeks or so ago, I moved a contractor's saw,
13"
> planer, sanding station (6" x 48" belt, 9" disc) and some other stuff in
an
> S10. Covered it with an old tarp and some plastic and drove it 325 miles.
I'll
> do the same a week from tomorrow with a bandsaw, small jointer, drill
press and
> smaller items.
>
"Charlie Self" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Bill Pounds responds:
<snip>
> Yeah. But the cost of rental for some of us aims us straight in the
direction
> of inconvenience.
That's one reason I suggested a heavy duty trailer/
>
> >On a side note, have you noticed that friends who will help you move get
> >scarcer as you get older? Pizza and beer just don't draw a crowd like it
> >did when we were younger.
>
<snip>
Actually, I kind of wonder if maybe the
> oldest kid can't get her church youth group to drop over, too. I can teach
them
> a whole new language to go with ehavy lifting and banged up shins and
fingers.
>
Unless its skilled help I prefer to do it myself. I moved a 1 1/2 ton mill,
SouthBend lathe, 12" sliding table saw, and all the rest by myself. Careful
preparation, analysis of the potential forces and applied mechanical forces
are the keys as far as I'm concerned.
As a matter of interest I'm retired, 5'7" and weigh 130# wet.
Bernard R
Bill Pounds responds:
>You're right. I shouldn't have said I wouldn't do it in an open truck. In
>fact I have done it a few times. My point is about convenience. The lift
>gate makes this an easy loading job, and there is no need to disassemble
>anything, also a convenience.
Yeah. But the cost of rental for some of us aims us straight in the direction
of inconvenience.
>On a side note, have you noticed that friends who will help you move get
>scarcer as you get older? Pizza and beer just don't draw a crowd like it
>did when we were younger.
No one at this end. The friends I'd thought I had made in this place turned out
not to be, so I'llbe searching out HS kids to load. When I get back home, one
friend has a screwed up back, while another has a screwed up heart. Thank
heavens for an unmarried daughter! Actually, I kind of wonder if maybe the
oldest kid can't get her church youth group to drop over, too. I can teach them
a whole new language to go with ehavy lifting and banged up shins and fingers.
Charlie Self
"It is not strange... to mistake change for progress." Millard Fillmore
In article <[email protected]>,
Charlie Self <[email protected]> wrote:
>
[[.. munch ..]]
> Actually, I kind of wonder if maybe the
>oldest kid can't get her church youth group to drop over, too. I can teach them
>a whole new language to go with ehavy lifting and banged up shins and fingers.
I _did_ actually learn some new language at the church youth group, many
years ago. From the minister, no less.
I don't remember what the preceeding discussion was, but his wife cuts in,
claiming: "Oh, Ron, you're just being facetious!".
To which Ron replied, in absolutely outraged tones: "I am not! Name one thing
all day I've done that has been fasheesh!" (spelling? <grin>)
I *still* don't know how to spell that word, but I've used it on more than
one occasion. Usually in a similar context! *snicker*
Friend that ran a gas station helped a neighbor with a heavy log, went
home to rest on couch and had a MASSIVE heart attack. Devestating
doesn't cover it, he was only old enough for a daughter about 20.
On 03 Apr 2004 17:29:15 GMT, [email protected] (Charlie Self)
wrote:
>>On a side note, have you noticed that friends who will help you move get
>>scarcer as you get older? Pizza and beer just don't draw a crowd like it
>>did when we were younger.
>
>No one at this end. The friends I'd thought I had made in this place turned out
>not to be, so I'llbe searching out HS kids to load. When I get back home, one
>friend has a screwed up back, while another has a screwed up heart.
Bill Pounds writes:
> would not put
>that stuff in an open pickup truck for a 65 mile trip. The van will come
>with pads and wall straps so you can properly secure your treasure.
Huh? The van is best, but 2 weeks or so ago, I moved a contractor's saw, 13"
planer, sanding station (6" x 48" belt, 9" disc) and some other stuff in an
S10. Covered it with an old tarp and some plastic and drove it 325 miles. I'll
do the same a week from tomorrow with a bandsaw, small jointer, drill press and
smaller items.
Moving while making family visits. We finally get out from under here, the
furniture and whatnot will go in a van, but I'd rather not pay for space to
move tools that can just as easily survive a pick-up ride.
Big secret: 2" wide pull tight (not that ratchet deal--the only good ratchets
are the ones the truckers buy, and I don't have that kind of spare cash)
straps, plenty of cover, cardboard on the truck bed, and stop every 100 miles
to check tightness.
Charlie Self
"The function of posterity is to look after itself." Dylan Thomas
"Todd Mummert" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Went to look at a Delta 8" jointer from a local shop that was closing, and
> ended up purchasing all the machinery and attachments. [ Not a gloat,
since
> I think the price, while good, was fair ].
>
> I'm new to this, having decided last fall to find something to do during
> the rainy weekends here in CT. And now, I guess I've jumped into the
> deep end.
>
> Assuming I'm going to move this myself, what is the best way to do it?
> I can rent a truck (possibly one with a rear lift), but what is the best
way
> to move the machines in such a way that they survive the trip (~65 miles)?
> Two of the pieces are heavy (jointer, unisaw). And two are probably
> top-heavy (jet 18" bandsaw, drill press).
>
> I can probably get mobile bases for them (which I need to have eventually
> anyway), but do I want to transport them in the truck that way? Once in
> the truck, will lashing them to the sides of the truck be sufficient to
> keep them in place?
>
> And for getting them in the truck in the first place, if I don't use
> mobile bases, will a dolly and 2 healthy bodies be able to safely move
> them w/o damaging the bases? I've never tried to move a machine with
> a dolly before.
>
> Thanks for any experiences you can share.
>
> Todd Mummert
> [email protected]
None of them is what I would classify as real heavy, I would suggest that a
heavy duty trailer is a better bet than a truck, one they are lower and
usually have a ramp, two unless it's a BIG truck they probably have a higher
load capacity.
For this type of exercise you need a bunch of racheting cargo straps, Lowes,
BORG any of those have them. Cross tie them diagonally across the vehicle,
if possible anchor to chassis members.
For this type of job I would use a pallet jack, think I've seen them for
hire at places like Budget, I move things enough that I picked one up for
$50. A dolly is really two high and not wide enough to be stable. You need
some 2x4s for those items that don't span the forks of the pallet jack and
use your straps while you are manouvering things around on the jack.
You probably do less damage moving the BS and DP upright, providing they're
properly braced high enough with the rachet clamps they're not going
anywhere you don't want.
Bernard R
Check with Uhaul as well Todd. I was sitting on the porch drinking my
morning coffee this morning and one of their vans went by, too fast to read
it for sure, but I think it said $29.95 per day.
--
Bill Pounds
http://www.billpounds.com/woodshop
"Todd Mummert" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Again, thanks to everyone for their suggestions. After thinking through
> my choices, I am looking at renting a Ryder type truck w/ lift gate.
>
> Todd Mummert
I recently moved my shop or rather my wifw and I did. I disassembled
everything and repacked it all virtually the way it came from the
factories, i.e. I removed fence from jointer and then jointer from
stand, Removed aux table from unisaw, removed cast table ext from left
side etc. I really tore everything down to lower the weight and protect
all the expensive pieces that can easily break. The dj20 and the unisaw
are both top heavy to the extreme. I removed the dj20 from its stand and
with 1 inch wooden rollers rolled it onto a4 wheel dolly in a trailer
and then secured it in the trailer. I only moved all this stuff 4 miles
but felt it was worth the work to protect the machines. A lift gate
would be very nice and with a couple dollies wil save a lot of work.
Make sure you rent lots af moving pads(blankets) and secure them to the
machines with packing tape. Pad everything that will touchanything or be
touched and secure with strqps or rope and check all the securement 10
or so miles into the trip. Strong friends will be a big help. My wife
(110 lbs), and I have ten yrs experience moving very expensive machnes,
robots, mainframes, hazardous materials etc. If you can afford it get a
bigger truck than you actually need, plan things out dont rush and pad
pad pad and secure secure secure and check check check. My wife came
upon a table saw lying in the middle of the road accompanied by the
pickup truck and the hapless fools who didnt follow these suggestions
one day. The saw was totalled. John
Todd Mummert asks:
>Assuming I'm going to move this myself, what is the best way to do it?
>I can rent a truck (possibly one with a rear lift), but what is the best way
>to move the machines in such a way that they survive the trip (~65 miles)?
>Two of the pieces are heavy (jointer, unisaw). And two are probably
>top-heavy (jet 18" bandsaw, drill press).
>
>I can probably get mobile bases for them (which I need to have eventually
>anyway), but do I want to transport them in the truck that way? Once in
>the truck, will lashing them to the sides of the truck be sufficient to
>keep them in place?
>
>And for getting them in the truck in the first place, if I don't use
>mobile bases, will a dolly and 2 healthy bodies be able to safely move
>them w/o damaging the bases? I've never tried to move a machine with
>a dolly before.
>
To answer your last question first, 2 people and dollies should be fine. A hand
truck--a good one--is a help. Three people would be better, as would 3-1/2'
wide pieces of 1" diameter black iron pipe. Or galvanized. I like the roller
effect better than dollies. Tip up the Unisaw, slide 1 under, yank, slide
another under, pull and keep moving after you get 3 under. 1 person pull
slowly, the other pick up the rollers behind and insert them in front.
Use 2" strapping to hold them in place--most rental trucks have rings to take
the strap hooks. They may even have some straps. You can buy straps for under
10 bucks each at Northern Tool. Don't buy the 1" crap.
I wouldn't spend a whole lot of itme worrying about that bandsaw being top
heavy--the motor is mounted way down low, so compensates for the table. If
neede be, take the table off the bandsaw. Two star bolts or nuts under the
table, IIRC. Take the head off the drill press. That's about the only sensible
way to transport something that is that top heavy, unless you can strap it in a
corner.
Get some top notch zipper lock baggies. Also a black indelible marker. Any
removed hardware from any tool goes in a baggie, which gets marked with the
name of the tool and gets closed. Do this IMMEDIATELY upon removal of parts
small enough to fit.
Enjoy your shop.
Charlie Self
"The function of posterity is to look after itself." Dylan Thomas
"Mark Jerde" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Todd Mummert wrote:
>
> > Two of the pieces are heavy (jointer, unisaw).
>
> I still have daymares about the time about 20 years ago I almost spilled a
> piano out of the side of a pickup truck. I didn't realize how tippy an
> upright piano is. Make sure you tie everything down well.
>
> -- Mark
When I moved my shop, a tommy/lift gate on the truck was VERY helpful
- a truck big enough for the whole shop will be quite a ways in the
air.
After that, how hard it is falls rapidly with the number of strong
people to help.
The drill press, being very heavy, and VERY top heavy, is the hardest
thing to move safely (for it and you), I suggest you take the head off
if at all possible.
There is no such thing as too much lashing...
bmw
"Pounds on Wood" <[email protected]> writes:
>Check with Uhaul as well Todd. I was sitting on the porch drinking my
>morning coffee this morning and one of their vans went by, too fast to read
>it for sure, but I think it said $29.95 per day.
It either says as low as $29.95 a day or doesn't mention per day at all.
On weekends and around the 1st of the month, that $29.95 only gets you
half a day rental. During the week mid month they will give you a full
day for $29.95 as demand is much less.
I would rent from anyone besides Uhaul. They charge more but they have
better trucks. I've never rented a Uhaul I would drive more than 20
miles. The Uhaul trucks I've rented were pretty much ready for the scrap
yard.
Brian Elfert
Brian Elfert responds:
>I would rent from anyone besides Uhaul. They charge more but they have
>better trucks. I've never rented a Uhaul I would drive more than 20
>miles. The Uhaul trucks I've rented were pretty much ready for the scrap
>yard.
Yes. The UHaul my wife rented to bring our stuff to P'burg was a POS from the
word go. I was lucky. Only had to drive it to the gas station and to the
drop-off. Someone else got to drive it the 300+ miles here from Bedford. It
broke down in Roanoke (35 whole miles). I'd never have accepted the thing, even
though the guy renting it is an old acquaintance, because one of the side rails
(interior) was loose right about the level it could tear your eye out if you
weren't careful.
Almost ended up paying for an extra day for the truck and unloading help
because the UHaul truck was a POS.
No more.
Ryder or the Race Driver.
Charlie Self
"It is not strange... to mistake change for progress." Millard Fillmore
On Fri, 02 Apr 2004 23:31:04 GMT, Phisherman <[email protected]> wrote:
>When you load them onto the truck, brace them and use plenty
>bungee cords and/or duct tape.
Do NOT use bungee cords. Do NOT use duct tape (except to secure pads).
You might as well use the rubber bands that come with the morning
paper as use bungee cords on machines that weigh in excess of 200 lbs.
Duct tape has even less strength.
You need to tie those babies down with an appropriate material. The
straps mentioned elsewhere are good. I've always used manila rope,
mostly because I have knot knowledge that allows me to really rig them
right. Watch out for straps/ropes going over sharp corners.
Someone else mentioned stopping a couple of times (20 or 30 miles,
then 50 or 100 miles) to make sure everything is still snug. You do
not want to find out at the end of a 200-2000 mile trip what you could
have found out AND FIXED after 20 miles.
SWMBO and I moved an entire household (4/2½, two story, w/full
basement/shop and full attic storage) with a 12' enclosed utility
trailer from Chicago to Ft. Lauderdale (took several trips; much of
the stuff is in storage at an intermediate location). It's all about
leverage, dollies, hand truck, pads, and rope.
- -
LRod
Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite
Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999
http://www.woodbutcher.net
I don't know if you have access to these or not............but a pallet jack
and/or forklift would really help out on each end. I moved my uncle's shop
in a day (only two miles apart) with my tractor and loader w/forks and
pallet jack and every pallet I could beg from various people. Ask if the
shop you bought, borrowed a forktruck from a local person occassionaly. If
so you might be able to do the same for a fee. The tighter you pack things
in a box truck(for your situation is the only way to go, it could rain
anytime in the spring) the better chance you have of getting to your place
in one piece.
Good Luck Lyndell
"Todd Mummert" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Went to look at a Delta 8" jointer from a local shop that was closing, and
> ended up purchasing all the machinery and attachments. [ Not a gloat,
since
> I think the price, while good, was fair ].
>
> I'm new to this, having decided last fall to find something to do during
> the rainy weekends here in CT. And now, I guess I've jumped into the
> deep end.
>
> Assuming I'm going to move this myself, what is the best way to do it?
> I can rent a truck (possibly one with a rear lift), but what is the best
way
> to move the machines in such a way that they survive the trip (~65 miles)?
> Two of the pieces are heavy (jointer, unisaw). And two are probably
> top-heavy (jet 18" bandsaw, drill press).
>
> I can probably get mobile bases for them (which I need to have eventually
> anyway), but do I want to transport them in the truck that way? Once in
> the truck, will lashing them to the sides of the truck be sufficient to
> keep them in place?
>
> And for getting them in the truck in the first place, if I don't use
> mobile bases, will a dolly and 2 healthy bodies be able to safely move
> them w/o damaging the bases? I've never tried to move a machine with
> a dolly before.
>
> Thanks for any experiences you can share.
>
> Todd Mummert
> [email protected]
Be sure to remove the fence and table on the jointer. It's very
tempting to pick up the jointer by having two guys grab an end of the
table. This is a big no-no. The weight in the middle pulling down
from the table ends could result in a twisted or warped table.
Secure the table to some plywood and carry it that way so the whole
table is supported. Same for the fence.
Heavy duty stretch wrap is excellent for tying the fence and table to
the plywood. It is available at most any moving supply store. Also
great for bundling boards.
Cape Cod Bob
Visit my web site at http://home.comcast.net/~bobmethelis
Cape Cod Bob responds:
>It's very
>tempting to pick up the jointer by having two guys grab an end of the
>table. This is a big no-no. The weight in the middle pulling down
>from the table ends could result in a twisted or warped table.
Not good.
>Secure the table to some plywood and carry it that way so the whole
>table is supported. Same for the fence.
>
>Heavy duty stretch wrap is excellent for tying the fence and table to
>the plywood. It is available at most any moving supply store. Also
>great for bundling boards.
We usually just use the stretch wrap (I hated this stuff when it first came
out, but won't be without it now) to keep a couple 4' or so 2x4s up close under
the table. Your idea may be better, as with mine, it's hard to get through a
standard door. With a large door, though, just snug the 2x4s up, and pick up
2x4 ends (2 people, of course). And if you're carrying Big Bertha, your 12"
jointer, 4 people.
Charlie Self
"It is not strange... to mistake change for progress." Millard Fillmore
[email protected] (Charlie Self) bellowed forth with this wisdom for
all to hear:
> >It's very
> >tempting to pick up the jointer by having two guys grab an end of the
> >table. This is a big no-no. The weight in the middle pulling down
> >from the table ends could result in a twisted or warped table.
>
> Not good.
OR WORSE! I didn't know about the problem this can cause when I moved, and now
I have a jointer with a broken dovetail on the infeed table. I don't think I'll
ever get it to work properly again.
If I had known better, I'd have prevented the moving gorillas from toting my
jointer by the table ends, and for SURE I'd have inspected every piece of
machinery intensely before signing off on the moving papers.
Joe
"Nate B" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> "Todd Mummert"
>
> Suggest you find 3 friends and just handle it like men. A lift might be
> nice, but it sure isn't necessary unless you guys are a bunch of wimps. If
> you did find a lift, which I'm not sure are that easy to find for rent, then
Budget Rent-a-Truck (at Sears) typically has lifts available, but you
have to ask for them, so book over the phone not the internet. Uhaul
absolutely doesn't have them, and I don't think Ryder does consumer
rentals anymore. Penske might.
If you can't go with a liftgate, get a UHaul. The "Low beds" are not
just a gimmick.
Brian Elfert <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> "Pounds on Wood" <[email protected]> writes:
>
>>Check with Uhaul as well Todd. I was sitting on the porch drinking my
>>morning coffee this morning and one of their vans went by, too fast to
>>read it for sure, but I think it said $29.95 per day.
>
> It either says as low as $29.95 a day or doesn't mention per day at
> all.
>
> On weekends and around the 1st of the month, that $29.95 only gets you
> half a day rental. During the week mid month they will give you a
> full day for $29.95 as demand is much less.
>
> I would rent from anyone besides Uhaul. They charge more but they
> have better trucks. I've never rented a Uhaul I would drive more than
> 20 miles. The Uhaul trucks I've rented were pretty much ready for the
> scrap yard.
>
> Brian Elfert
I've never had a good experience w/Uhaul. Also, I rented a larger hauler
once and they pulled it up outside the rental office so when I got done
paying the bill, I could drive it away. When I climbed up into it, it
turned out to be a standard transmission truck. This wasn't a problem
since I learned to drive in a vehicle w/standard transmission but don't
you think they would ask? I'd venture to say that most people don't know
how to drive one of those any more.
--
remove nospam to use email
Casey Stamper
[email protected]
"The dogs bark . . . but the caravan moves on"
old Arabic saying
Whatever you do, make sure you at least find out how much it costs to rent a
liftgate truck. In my area, they can be had very inexpensively (around $75
per day plus mileage). Liftgates are simply awesome.
One other thing you might consider is to build several pallets out of 2x4's,
plywood, etc, and then bolt your machines onto them. Wide pallets will make
the machines less likely to tip. If you build them right, they'll also be
difficult to slide. You can get the machines onto the pallets by tipping
them slightly and then sliding them on. Not easy, but not that difficult
with more than one person. Pallet jacks can most likely be rented from the
same place that rents the liftgate truck.
"Todd Mummert" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Went to look at a Delta 8" jointer from a local shop that was closing, and
> ended up purchasing all the machinery and attachments. [ Not a gloat,
since
> I think the price, while good, was fair ].
>
> I'm new to this, having decided last fall to find something to do during
> the rainy weekends here in CT. And now, I guess I've jumped into the
> deep end.
>
> Assuming I'm going to move this myself, what is the best way to do it?
> I can rent a truck (possibly one with a rear lift), but what is the best
way
> to move the machines in such a way that they survive the trip (~65 miles)?
> Two of the pieces are heavy (jointer, unisaw). And two are probably
> top-heavy (jet 18" bandsaw, drill press).
>
> I can probably get mobile bases for them (which I need to have eventually
> anyway), but do I want to transport them in the truck that way? Once in
> the truck, will lashing them to the sides of the truck be sufficient to
> keep them in place?
>
> And for getting them in the truck in the first place, if I don't use
> mobile bases, will a dolly and 2 healthy bodies be able to safely move
> them w/o damaging the bases? I've never tried to move a machine with
> a dolly before.
>
> Thanks for any experiences you can share.
>
> Todd Mummert
> [email protected]
"Todd Mummert" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Went to look at a Delta 8" jointer from a local shop that was closing, and
> ended up purchasing all the machinery and attachments. [ Not a gloat,
since
> I think the price, while good, was fair ].
>
As for the jointer, the top bed assembly will come off of the base and you
should be able to handle it with one or two friends. Just be careful not to
wack the tables on anything.
The bandsaw may be a similar situation where it may come off of the stand?
The drill press can be wedged in anywhere.
Frank
On 05 Apr 2004 20:34:23 GMT, Brian Elfert <[email protected]> wrote:
>I would rent from anyone besides Uhaul. They charge more but they have
>better trucks.
Me too, except maybe for a really basic, crosstown move of household
items. The only advantage Uhaul has over anyone else is they are easy
to find.
UHaul kills you on the mileage, and nickle and dime crap. Also, I
haven't seen a lift gate equipped UHaul in 15 years, only trucks with
ramps. The $29.95 is a come-on. The last time I tried to rent from
Uhaul, the truck never came back from the night before, so they left
me in the cold. Where was the truck? Apparently Uhaul's local
rates are much better than one-way, so scumballs rent the truck and
ditch it somewhere after they're done. The Uhaul employee told me
this happens on a pretty regular basis.
On the other hand, Ryder, Penske, Edart, and others usually rent to
businesses who expect to make money with the truck. Anytime I needed
a truck for professional purposes, I knew I could get what I wanted
from these guys. The total cost in the end actually wasn't that much
more than Uhaul, but the equipment was much better. Make sure you
SPECIFY a lift gate. For my purposes a lift gate slowed us down, so
we always specified ramps. If you are coming or going to a tight
spot, these companies can also usually set you up with a side door if
you need one. Tie downs and blankets are usually not included, ask!
Have fun,
Barry
"Todd Mummert"
> Two of the pieces are heavy (jointer, unisaw). And two are probably
> top-heavy (jet 18" bandsaw, drill press).
Suggest you find 3 friends and just handle it like men. A lift might be
nice, but it sure isn't necessary unless you guys are a bunch of wimps. If
you did find a lift, which I'm not sure are that easy to find for rent, then
FYI - my skinny girlfriend and I have moved the Unisaw and DJ-20 around my
shop no problem. For 65 miles, I'd find a truck that can do the job in 1
trip. You can usually rent a flat little 4 wheeled thingy to set stuff on
and wheel around as well.
- Nate
If only everyone could have a forklift, pallets ( or palletainers ), and
a banding machine!
Lyndell Thompson wrote:
>I don't know if you have access to these or not............but a pallet jack
>and/or forklift would really help out on each end. I moved my uncle's shop
>in a day (only two miles apart) with my tractor and loader w/forks and
>pallet jack and every pallet I could beg from various people. Ask if the
>shop you bought, borrowed a forktruck from a local person occassionaly. If
>so you might be able to do the same for a fee. The tighter you pack things
>in a box truck(for your situation is the only way to go, it could rain
>anytime in the spring) the better chance you have of getting to your place
>in one piece.
> Good Luck Lyndell
>
>
>"Todd Mummert" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>
>
>>Went to look at a Delta 8" jointer from a local shop that was closing, and
>>ended up purchasing all the machinery and attachments. [ Not a gloat,
>>
>>
>since
>
>
>>I think the price, while good, was fair ].
>>
>>I'm new to this, having decided last fall to find something to do during
>>the rainy weekends here in CT. And now, I guess I've jumped into the
>>deep end.
>>
>>Assuming I'm going to move this myself, what is the best way to do it?
>>I can rent a truck (possibly one with a rear lift), but what is the best
>>
>>
>way
>
>
>>to move the machines in such a way that they survive the trip (~65 miles)?
>>Two of the pieces are heavy (jointer, unisaw). And two are probably
>>top-heavy (jet 18" bandsaw, drill press).
>>
>>I can probably get mobile bases for them (which I need to have eventually
>>anyway), but do I want to transport them in the truck that way? Once in
>>the truck, will lashing them to the sides of the truck be sufficient to
>>keep them in place?
>>
>>And for getting them in the truck in the first place, if I don't use
>>mobile bases, will a dolly and 2 healthy bodies be able to safely move
>>them w/o damaging the bases? I've never tried to move a machine with
>>a dolly before.
>>
>>Thanks for any experiences you can share.
>>
>>Todd Mummert
>>[email protected]
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Home Depot, and probably other BORG, have pallet jacks for _rent_, for not
a whole lot of money.
In article <[email protected]>,
Mark and Kim Smith <[email protected]> wrote:
>If only everyone could have a forklift, pallets ( or palletainers ), and
>a banding machine!
>
>Lyndell Thompson wrote:
>
>>I don't know if you have access to these or not............but a pallet jack
>>and/or forklift would really help out on each end. I moved my uncle's shop
>>in a day (only two miles apart) with my tractor and loader w/forks and
>>pallet jack and every pallet I could beg from various people. Ask if the
>>shop you bought, borrowed a forktruck from a local person occassionaly. If
>>so you might be able to do the same for a fee. The tighter you pack things
>>in a box truck(for your situation is the only way to go, it could rain
>>anytime in the spring) the better chance you have of getting to your place
>>in one piece.
>> Good Luck Lyndell
>>
>>
>>"Todd Mummert" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>news:[email protected]...
>>
>>
>>>Went to look at a Delta 8" jointer from a local shop that was closing, and
>>>ended up purchasing all the machinery and attachments. [ Not a gloat,
>>>
>>>
>>since
>>
>>
>>>I think the price, while good, was fair ].
>>>
>>>I'm new to this, having decided last fall to find something to do during
>>>the rainy weekends here in CT. And now, I guess I've jumped into the
>>>deep end.
>>>
>>>Assuming I'm going to move this myself, what is the best way to do it?
>>>I can rent a truck (possibly one with a rear lift), but what is the best
>>>
>>>
>>way
>>
>>
>>>to move the machines in such a way that they survive the trip (~65 miles)?
>>>Two of the pieces are heavy (jointer, unisaw). And two are probably
>>>top-heavy (jet 18" bandsaw, drill press).
>>>
>>>I can probably get mobile bases for them (which I need to have eventually
>>>anyway), but do I want to transport them in the truck that way? Once in
>>>the truck, will lashing them to the sides of the truck be sufficient to
>>>keep them in place?
>>>
>>>And for getting them in the truck in the first place, if I don't use
>>>mobile bases, will a dolly and 2 healthy bodies be able to safely move
>>>them w/o damaging the bases? I've never tried to move a machine with
>>>a dolly before.
>>>
>>>Thanks for any experiences you can share.
>>>
>>>Todd Mummert
>>>[email protected]
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
On 02 Apr 2004 18:08:36 -0500, Todd Mummert <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>Went to look at a Delta 8" jointer from a local shop that was closing, and
>ended up purchasing all the machinery and attachments. [ Not a gloat, since
>I think the price, while good, was fair ].
>
>I'm new to this, having decided last fall to find something to do during
>the rainy weekends here in CT. And now, I guess I've jumped into the
>deep end.
>
>Assuming I'm going to move this myself, what is the best way to do it?
>I can rent a truck (possibly one with a rear lift), but what is the best way
>to move the machines in such a way that they survive the trip (~65 miles)?
>Two of the pieces are heavy (jointer, unisaw). And two are probably
>top-heavy (jet 18" bandsaw, drill press).
>
>I can probably get mobile bases for them (which I need to have eventually
>anyway), but do I want to transport them in the truck that way? Once in
>the truck, will lashing them to the sides of the truck be sufficient to
>keep them in place?
>
>And for getting them in the truck in the first place, if I don't use
>mobile bases, will a dolly and 2 healthy bodies be able to safely move
>them w/o damaging the bases? I've never tried to move a machine with
>a dolly before.
>
>Thanks for any experiences you can share.
>
>Todd Mummert
>[email protected]
If you could disassemble the heavier machines into two parts, such
that each piece is under 250 pounds, moving will go much easier. Make
sure you box up any loose parts. Crating the machines or wrap them in
old blankets or rugs will help protect them. When you load them onto
the truck, brace them and use plenty bungee cords and/or duct tape. A
two-wheel truck or dolly is very helpful. Wear gloves, take your
time, and lift with your legs, not your back! Try to get your
strongest friend to help you.
I originally wrote:
>> Assuming I'm going to move this myself, what is the best way to do it?
Cape Cod Bob <[email protected]> replied:
> Be sure to remove the fence and table on the jointer. It's very
> tempting to pick up the jointer by having two guys grab an end of the
> table. This is a big no-no. The weight in the middle pulling down
> from the table ends could result in a twisted or warped table.
>
Thanks to everyone who replied. As I stated before, I have almost no
experience in this area...so another question:
What does removing the table from the jointer mean? I was planning on
removing the fence and the jointer from the base. Is it possible/easy
to remove the infeed/outfeed tables? It's a Delta 8" Professional
model.
For the unisaw, I'm going to remove the extension table, the fence rails,
and I think the cast iron wings. I assume this is straightforward, and I
can get access to the current shop before the actual move date to break
things down. Btw, how much will the cast iron wings weigh? It's a
Delta Platinum Edition Unisaw w/ Bessy fence.
Again, thanks to everyone for their suggestions. After thinking through
my choices, I am looking at renting a Ryder type truck w/ lift gate.
Todd Mummert
"Joe Helmick" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> [email protected] (Charlie Self) bellowed forth with this wisdom
for
> all to hear:
>
> > >What does removing the table from the jointer mean? I was planning on
> > >removing the fence and the jointer from the base. Is it
possible/easy
> > >to remove the infeed/outfeed tables? It's a Delta 8" Professional
> > >model.
> >
> > Remove the fence. Don't remove the tables unless you want to spend a
pot full
> > of time realigning everything.
>
> I have to respectfully disagree here, especially for the larger jointers,
unless
> you affix the jointer base to some strong square iron tubing or something
to
> carry it. Carrying it by the tables will likely ruin it. My 6" Delta Pro
is
> busted from this very thing. Broken infeed dovetail from being carried by
the
> table ends. Didn't realize it until many months after the move, when I
was
> getting my shop set up. Too late for a damage claim, way out of
warranty...
> Don't let it happen to you.
>
> After my jointer got ruined by carring it by the tables, I resolved that
if I
> ever moved my shop again, I will take the time to disassemble the jointer
tables
> from the center base, no matter how long it takes.
>
> Joe
>
>
I think there is confusion with the terminology. My jointer came in two
parts, the stand and the top (includes the tables). I am getting ready to
move and I will have the movers build a crate for the top/fence and remove
it from the base (not lifting by the tables). When I put it together, I
used an engine lift and lifted by the center section of the top (not the
tables).
Montyhp
Montyhp responds:
>>
>I think there is confusion with the terminology. My jointer came in two
>parts, the stand and the top (includes the tables). I am getting ready to
>move and I will have the movers build a crate for the top/fence and remove
>it from the base (not lifting by the tables). When I put it together, I
>used an engine lift and lifted by the center section of the top (not the
>tables).
>
Best way. I've assembled a bunch of these things the easy way. Dead lift the
sucker with hands in close to the cutterhead (well, with 6" each way). I could
do that OK on the 6" models, but the DJ20 like to blew my garters off. Had to
roll out the engine lift.
Which, by the way, was one of the best shop purchases I ever made. About $150
for the lift, and maybe $40 for various slings from Northern.
Charlie Self
"It is not strange... to mistake change for progress." Millard Fillmore
<snip>
> I think there is confusion with the terminology. My jointer came in two
> parts, the stand and the top (includes the tables). I am getting ready to
> move and I will have the movers build a crate for the top/fence and remove
> it from the base (not lifting by the tables). When I put it together, I
> used an engine lift and lifted by the center section of the top (not the
> tables).
>
> Montyhp
>
>
I also have an engine lift, easy enough to hire if necessary, breaks down
easily so take it to the loading site as well. That and a pallet jack will
let you move just about anything. Rigging and lifting is a skill which
means you need to evaluate each lift, the jointer is a case in point, you
sling it on the slides, but also use two sets of 2x4s lashed tight the
length of the table so that bumps and such during the journey don't exert
breaking forces on the ways.
Taking wings off a TS is also advisable, again because unexpected bumps on
the journey can break the casting at the bolt holes, they're only held on by
a couple of bolts.
One word of caution with an engine lift, they are pretty stable in the fore
and aft direction but can take very little side movement. I picked up some
long 3" pipe from the scrap yard that I put through the tubes in the the
back box section and block that to prevent sideways tipping.
Bernard R
Todd Mummert asks:
>What does removing the table from the jointer mean? I was planning on
>removing the fence and the jointer from the base. Is it possible/easy
>to remove the infeed/outfeed tables? It's a Delta 8" Professional
>model.
Remove the fence. Don't remove the tables unless you want to spend a pot full
of time realigning everything.
>For the unisaw, I'm going to remove the extension table, the fence rails,
>and I think the cast iron wings. I assume this is straightforward, and I
>can get access to the current shop before the actual move date to break
>things down. Btw, how much will the cast iron wings weigh? It's a
>Delta Platinum Edition Unisaw w/ Bessy fence.
Don't know the actual weight, but I've installed about 4 sets by myself. You
can handle thatme, but use clamps at each end to make sure the table doesn't
drop suddenly and bend the bolts. Loosen one bolt a turn or so, then back out
the others one at a time. I used to support the table with one hand and a knee
while I backed out the last bolt, drop the wrench and grab the table with the
second hand. They're heavy but not overly heavy.
Charlie Self
"It is not strange... to mistake change for progress." Millard Fillmore
[email protected] (Charlie Self) bellowed forth with this wisdom for
all to hear:
> >What does removing the table from the jointer mean? I was planning on
> >removing the fence and the jointer from the base. Is it possible/easy
> >to remove the infeed/outfeed tables? It's a Delta 8" Professional
> >model.
>
> Remove the fence. Don't remove the tables unless you want to spend a pot full
> of time realigning everything.
I have to respectfully disagree here, especially for the larger jointers, unless
you affix the jointer base to some strong square iron tubing or something to
carry it. Carrying it by the tables will likely ruin it. My 6" Delta Pro is
busted from this very thing. Broken infeed dovetail from being carried by the
table ends. Didn't realize it until many months after the move, when I was
getting my shop set up. Too late for a damage claim, way out of warranty...
Don't let it happen to you.
After my jointer got ruined by carring it by the tables, I resolved that if I
ever moved my shop again, I will take the time to disassemble the jointer tables
from the center base, no matter how long it takes.
Joe
Joe Helmick writes:
>>
>> Remove the fence. Don't remove the tables unless you want to spend a pot
>full
>> of time realigning everything.
>
>I have to respectfully disagree here, especially for the larger jointers,
>unless
>you affix the jointer base to some strong square iron tubing or something to
>carry it. Carrying it by the tables will likely ruin it. My 6" Delta Pro is
>busted from this very thing. Broken infeed dovetail from being carried by
>the
>table ends. Didn't realize it until many months after the move, when I was
>getting my shop set up. Too late for a damage claim, way out of warranty...
>Don't let it happen to you.
My point being that you are there, either moving the thing yourself, hopefully
with help, or you have told the people doing the job not to lift by the f***ing
tables or you'll string their guts around their necks like pearls.
Remove the fence, place 2x4s along the tables and, inside the junction and
close to the cutterhead, use plastic wrap to hold the 2x4s to the jointer.
Carry the jointer by the 2x4s.
Removing the tables is a waste of time and creates an incredible lack of
goodwill towards your wrench set and other tool items when re-assembly time
comes. For a simple tool, a joinoter is a royal PITA to re-align after
disassembly.
Removing the base may, or my not, be a good idea, but removing the tables is
not.
Charlie Self
"It is not strange... to mistake change for progress." Millard Fillmore
[email protected] (Charlie Self) bellowed forth with this wisdom for
all to hear:
> Remove the fence, place 2x4s along the tables and, inside the junction and
> close to the cutterhead, use plastic wrap to hold the 2x4s to the jointer.
> Carry the jointer by the 2x4s.
Now this makes sense... That's the right idea. Thanks!
(If I have to get a new jointer, this is how I'll get it into the shop).
Joe