I need to drill a tapered hole in a wood round. 10" deep, 2 degree
taper, small end 2.2".
I can do it in my metal working lathe by using the compound rest but
the travel is too short. I would have to stop and reposition the tool
holder with the chance for error too much.
I did a lot of web searching to no avail. The tapered drills and
reamers are simply too small.
Any ideas?
Thanks
Bob AZ
>> I need to drill a tapered hole in a wood round. 10" deep, 2 degree
>> taper, small end 2.2".
>>
{snip}
> build yourself a tapered reamer. shop built tapered reamers are pretty
> much standard operating procedure for woodwind instruments. basically
> a scraper blade let into a tapered wood plug. first you drill a series
> of straight holes, then you ream the taper..
I was thinking of a Morse taper socket reamer, or a Jacobs taper, but then
re-looked at the size and length you wanted... I agree, you will need to
build
(make? design?) your own tool.
Of course, the whole subject of making a scraper tool your self isn't
exactly average person common knowledge.
Phil
On Nov 24, 8:16 pm, Bob AZ <[email protected]> wrote:
> I need to drill a tapered hole in a wood round. 10" deep, 2 degree
> taper, small end 2.2".
>
> I can do it in my metal working lathe by using the compound rest but
> the travel is too short.
If your metal working lathe has a suitable taper attachment, you
can bore that conical hole. You might want to custom-build
a boring bar from 2" OD pipe, but it's only wood, the boring
bar won't take high stress.
On Nov 24, 9:16 pm, Bob AZ <[email protected]> wrote:
> I need to drill a tapered hole in a wood round. 10" deep, 2 degree
> taper, small end 2.2".
>
> I can do it in my metal working lathe by using the compound rest but
> the travel is too short. I would have to stop and reposition the tool
> holder with the chance for error too much.
>
> I did a lot of web searching to no avail. The tapered drills and
> reamers are simply too small.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Thanks
> Bob AZ
build yourself a tapered reamer. shop built tapered reamers are pretty
much standard operating procedure for woodwind instruments. basically
a scraper blade let into a tapered wood plug. first you drill a series
of straight holes, then you ream the taper.
If you have a metal working lathe, why not make one? An
appropriate block of aluminum, brass, bronze, or steel would be
adequate. Cut the taper you need, but small enough to install a
slot for a single edge cutter. It can be as simple as a piece of
file, saw blade, old plane iron, whatever. Set it deep enough to
have a set screw to hold the blade. You don't need much of it
other than the bevel out to cut, a bit like a plane iron. It will
require cutting a straight sided lead hole to start in.
You never said what kind of taper you're looking for. Ridgid
makes a pipe reamer that would cut wood and give you a taper,
though it might be more than you want
http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/Pipe-Reamers2/EN/index.htm
--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
[email protected]
"Bob AZ" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:64ac5e30-4e60-443f-adc8-1762c1661c75@i29g2000prf.googlegroups.com...
>I need to drill a tapered hole in a wood round. 10" deep, 2
>degree
> taper, small end 2.2".
>
> I can do it in my metal working lathe by using the compound rest
> but
> the travel is too short. I would have to stop and reposition the
> tool
> holder with the chance for error too much.
>
> I did a lot of web searching to no avail. The tapered drills and
> reamers are simply too small.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Thanks
> Bob AZ
On Nov 25, 7:04 pm, whit3rd <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Nov 24, 8:16 pm, Bob AZ <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > I need to drill a tapered hole in a wood round. 10" deep, 2 degree
> > taper, small end 2.2".
>
> > I can do it in my metal working lathe by using the compound rest but
> > the travel is too short.
>
> If your metal working lathe has a suitable taper attachment, you
> can bore that conical hole. You might want to custom-build
> a boring bar from 2" OD pipe, but it's only wood, the boring
> bar won't take high stress.
Boring is certainly the way to go. Turning a taper reamer, or a taper
drill bit, 10" long - even in wood - will take quite a bit of force.
John Martin