I need to take some MDF down about an 1/8 of a inch.
Piece is 3 inches by 8 inches.
I can use a sander (belt), or the planer. I was
thinking the planer knives would just dull up.
It's not a one time deal. I would be doing this
several more times.
Ideas and thoughts about this? I'm heading
to the belt sander myself but....
MJ
On Sat, 11 Sep 2010 14:46:18 -0500, Gordon Shumway
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Sat, 11 Sep 2010 09:26:39 -0700, Jerry <[email protected]>
>wrote:
>
>>On Fri, 10 Sep 2010 10:17:59 -0700 (PDT), "[email protected]"
>><[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>I need to take some MDF down about an 1/8 of a inch.
>>>Piece is 3 inches by 8 inches.
>>>
>>>I can use a sander (belt), or the planer. I was
>>>thinking the planer knives would just dull up.
>>>
>>>It's not a one time deal. I would be doing this
>>>several more times.
>>>
>>>Ideas and thoughts about this? I'm heading
>>>to the belt sander myself but....
>>>
>>>MJ
>>
>>3 inches by 8 inches by what? Which side do you need to remove the 1/8
>>inch from?
>
>You idiot, he has to remove the 1/8" from the THICK side.
And he said that WHERE, you idiot?
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:daba7f4d-bd41-4aae-b256-cfd9490b0917@k17g2000prf.googlegroups.com...
>I need to take some MDF down about an 1/8 of a inch.
> Piece is 3 inches by 8 inches.
>
> I can use a sander (belt), or the planer. I was
> thinking the planer knives would just dull up.
>
> It's not a one time deal. I would be doing this
> several more times.
>
> Ideas and thoughts about this? I'm heading
> to the belt sander myself but....
>
> MJ
Slice it off on the table saw and clean up with belt sander.
On Fri, 10 Sep 2010 10:17:59 -0700 (PDT), "[email protected]"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I need to take some MDF down about an 1/8 of a inch.
>Piece is 3 inches by 8 inches.
>
>I can use a sander (belt), or the planer. I was
>thinking the planer knives would just dull up.
>
>It's not a one time deal. I would be doing this
>several more times.
>
>Ideas and thoughts about this? I'm heading
>to the belt sander myself but....
>
>MJ
3 inches by 8 inches by what? Which side do you need to remove the 1/8
inch from?
On Sep 10, 1:17=A0pm, "[email protected]" <[email protected]>
wrote:
> I need to take some MDF down about =A0an 1/8 of a inch.
> Piece is 3 inches by 8 inches.
>
> I can use a sander (belt), or the planer. I was
> thinking the planer knives would just dull up.
>
> It's not a one time deal. I would be doing this
> several more times.
>
> Ideas and thoughts about this? I'm heading
> to the belt sander myself but....
>
> MJ
Resaw with a decent carbide combination blade and
be done with it. I wouldn't belt sand except with a
Performax-type thickness sander. That would
take the surface out of flat.
On Fri, 10 Sep 2010 10:17:59 -0700 (PDT), "[email protected]"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I need to take some MDF down about an 1/8 of a inch.
>Piece is 3 inches by 8 inches.
>
>I can use a sander (belt), or the planer. I was
>thinking the planer knives would just dull up.
>
>It's not a one time deal. I would be doing this
>several more times.
>
>Ideas and thoughts about this? I'm heading
>to the belt sander myself but....
>
>MJ
Another thought. I don't know what you're building but could you
modify the design to accommodate the full thickness or maybe even the
next thinner thickness?
Of course if you are building a flux capacitor I can understand
needing that specific thickness.
On Sat, 11 Sep 2010 09:26:39 -0700, Jerry <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On Fri, 10 Sep 2010 10:17:59 -0700 (PDT), "[email protected]"
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>I need to take some MDF down about an 1/8 of a inch.
>>Piece is 3 inches by 8 inches.
>>
>>I can use a sander (belt), or the planer. I was
>>thinking the planer knives would just dull up.
>>
>>It's not a one time deal. I would be doing this
>>several more times.
>>
>>Ideas and thoughts about this? I'm heading
>>to the belt sander myself but....
>>
>>MJ
>
>3 inches by 8 inches by what? Which side do you need to remove the 1/8
>inch from?
You idiot, he has to remove the 1/8" from the THICK side.
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I need to take some MDF down about an 1/8 of a inch.
> Piece is 3 inches by 8 inches.
>
> I can use a sander (belt), or the planer. I was
> thinking the planer knives would just dull up.
>
> It's not a one time deal. I would be doing this
> several more times.
>
> Ideas and thoughts about this? I'm heading
> to the belt sander myself but....
-------------------------------
Cut all the 3x8 pieces, including future needs, to size, then take a
trip to the local drum sanding shop for a one time deal.
Lew
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I need to take some MDF down about an 1/8 of a inch.
> Piece is 3 inches by 8 inches.
>
> I can use a sander (belt), or the planer. I was
> thinking the planer knives would just dull up.
>
> It's not a one time deal. I would be doing this
> several more times.
>
> Ideas and thoughts about this? I'm heading
> to the belt sander myself but....
-------------------------------
Buy a sheet of 5/8 MDF.
Lew
I previously wrote:
> Cut all the 3x8 pieces, including future needs, to size, then take a
> trip to the local drum sanding shop for a one time deal.
------------------
If you cross cut pieces to 8" length before sanding, may be a problem.
8" may be too short to go thru sander.
Probably have to rip 3"x96" strips to go thru sander, then cross cut
to length.
Lew
"MJ" wrote:
> The piece in question was a zero clearance
> insert for my table saw.
>
> I bought some 1/2 MDF, traced the original
> insert and routed the MDF with a pattern
> bit. Came out nice.
>
> When I put it in the saw, I noticed that it
> stuck up above the table. Knowing that I
> needed to cut out where the saw has
> supports, I did that with a forsner bit. Still
> stuck. I found that my saw has a bit
> of a manufacturing "flaw". There is a slight
> lip on the bottom of the blade cutout that
> is not even with the top.
---------------------------------------
So why not chuck up a die grinding stone in a drill motor and clean up
the lip (burr) at the bottom of the cut out opening?
Lew
On Sun, 12 Sep 2010 09:25:51 -0700, Snoop2 <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Sat, 11 Sep 2010 14:46:18 -0500, Gordon Shumway
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>On Sat, 11 Sep 2010 09:26:39 -0700, Jerry <[email protected]>
>>wrote:
>>
>>>On Fri, 10 Sep 2010 10:17:59 -0700 (PDT), "[email protected]"
>>><[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>>I need to take some MDF down about an 1/8 of a inch.
>>>>Piece is 3 inches by 8 inches.
>>>>
>>>>I can use a sander (belt), or the planer. I was
>>>>thinking the planer knives would just dull up.
>>>>
>>>>It's not a one time deal. I would be doing this
>>>>several more times.
>>>>
>>>>Ideas and thoughts about this? I'm heading
>>>>to the belt sander myself but....
>>>>
>>>>MJ
>>>
>>>3 inches by 8 inches by what? Which side do you need to remove the 1/8
>>>inch from?
>>
>>You idiot, he has to remove the 1/8" from the THICK side.
>
>And he said that WHERE, you idiot?
Obviously humor is not your strong suit. However, it is totally
irrelevant which side has material removed to achieve the desired
thickness. They are both the same, idiot.
Thanks to all who responded.
The piece in question was a zero clearance
insert for my table saw.
I bought some 1/2 MDF, traced the original
insert and routed the MDF with a pattern
bit. Came out nice.
When I put it in the saw, I noticed that it
stuck up above the table. Knowing that I
needed to cut out where the saw has
supports, I did that with a forsner bit. Still
stuck. I found that my saw has a bit
of a manufacturing "flaw". There is a slight
lip on the bottom of the blade cutout that
is not even with the top. I figured that I just needed
to take out about 1/8 of an inch at these points
I'd be happy. Hence my post.
What I did - I have a drum sander and all I needed
to do was to slightly sand the edges where the
MDF was catching. I did and it now fits fine!
I will be making more of these, so thanks for
the tips about resawing. I think that might work.
I also think if I just routed a rabbet around the
outer edges that probably would work as well.
Again, thanks to all who helped me.
MJ
On 9/10/2010 11:04 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
> "Larry W" wrote:
>
>> How about take that 3X96 strip and just run it through the table saw
>> with the fence set to 5/8" or whatever you want to end up with.
> ----------------------------
> "Swing" got there first<G>.
In the FidoNet days a forum wasn't called an "echo" for nothing. :)
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)
On 9/10/2010 12:17 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> I need to take some MDF down about an 1/8 of a inch.
> Piece is 3 inches by 8 inches.
>
> I can use a sander (belt), or the planer. I was
> thinking the planer knives would just dull up.
>
> It's not a one time deal. I would be doing this
> several more times.
>
> Ideas and thoughts about this? I'm heading
> to the belt sander myself but....
How thick?
Got a table saw with a good fence? If it's over 1/4" thick, I'd head for
my table saw at those dimensions.
One, or two at the most, passes.
(I make all my 3/8" thick 'loose tenon' stock at the table saw, up to 3"
+ wide).
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)
On Fri, 10 Sep 2010 10:17:59 -0700 (PDT), "[email protected]"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I need to take some MDF down about an 1/8 of a inch.
>Piece is 3 inches by 8 inches.
>
>I can use a sander (belt), or the planer. I was
>thinking the planer knives would just dull up.
>
>It's not a one time deal. I would be doing this
>several more times.
>
>Ideas and thoughts about this? I'm heading
>to the belt sander myself but....
>
>MJ
Use a table saw, like others have mentioned, and that will give you
the best results relatively quick. I would recommend not using a
jointer or planer on that stuff. It will dull blades quickly.
On Sat, 11 Sep 2010 07:44:45 -0500, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
>On 9/10/2010 11:04 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
>> "Larry W" wrote:
>>
>>> How about take that 3X96 strip and just run it through the table saw
>>> with the fence set to 5/8" or whatever you want to end up with.
>> ----------------------------
>> "Swing" got there first<G>.
>
>In the FidoNet days a forum wasn't called an "echo" for nothing. :)
Ditto RIME.
--
Happiness comes of the capacity to feel deeply, to enjoy
simply, to think freely, to risk life, to be needed.
-- Storm Jameson
On 9/10/10 12:17 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> I need to take some MDF down about an 1/8 of a inch.
> Piece is 3 inches by 8 inches.
>
> I can use a sander (belt), or the planer. I was
> thinking the planer knives would just dull up.
>
> It's not a one time deal. I would be doing this
> several more times.
>
> Ideas and thoughts about this? I'm heading
> to the belt sander myself but....
>
> MJ
Someone else mentioned the table saw. I'm assuming if you have a planer,
you have a table saw.
I've used an upside down belt sander, clamped to a table, as a
stationary sander with good results.
If the surface has to be finished quality, using a planer could give you
a good excuse to sharpen your blades. However, with such a small piece,
your blades probably won't even notice.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
In article <[email protected]>,
Lew Hodgett <[email protected]> wrote:
>I previously wrote:
>
>> Cut all the 3x8 pieces, including future needs, to size, then take a
>> trip to the local drum sanding shop for a one time deal.
>------------------
>If you cross cut pieces to 8" length before sanding, may be a problem.
>
>8" may be too short to go thru sander.
>
>Probably have to rip 3"x96" strips to go thru sander, then cross cut
>to length.
>
>Lew
>
>
How about take that 3X96 strip and just run it through the table saw
with the fence set to 5/8" or whatever you want to end up with. If the
narrow rip is a problem, just stop when there's about a foot or so left
unripped, and use that as a "safety handle" (tm) to lift the strip up
off the saw table. Though personally I find a 5/8" rip not too
challenging with the proper push stick (push block, actually) made
ahead of time.
--
When the game is over, the pawn and the king are returned to the same box.
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar.org
"MJ" <[email protected]> wrote
> When I put it in the saw, I noticed that it
> stuck up above the table. Knowing that I
> needed to cut out where the saw has
> supports, I did that with a forsner bit. Still
> stuck. I found that my saw has a bit
> of a manufacturing "flaw". There is a slight
> lip on the bottom of the blade cutout that
> is not even with the top. I figured that I just needed
> to take out about 1/8 of an inch at these points
> I'd be happy. Hence my post.
>
Set your router for the thickness to be removed, and remove the material
just at those locations.
You could remove more than necessary, then drill and tap the wood for a set
screw to adjust the height of the insert.
--
Jim in NC
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:daba7f4d-bd41-4aae-b256-cfd9490b0917@k17g2000prf.googlegroups.com...
>I need to take some MDF down about an 1/8 of a inch.
> Piece is 3 inches by 8 inches.
>
> I can use a sander (belt), or the planer. I was
> thinking the planer knives would just dull up.
>
> It's not a one time deal. I would be doing this
> several more times.
>
> Ideas and thoughts about this? I'm heading
> to the belt sander myself but....
>
> MJ
I have successfully sanded MDF with a ROS but taking off 1/8", 1/16" from
both sides will give you a surface that is not like the factory outer
surface. You are going to start getting into the softer fuzzier layers. So
if the surface matters yo might want to rethink and for sure test on same
stock samples.