Looking for some advice:
I've made an oak frame for a large mirror and now I need to set the mirror
into the frame. I've got a Fletcher point driver, but the problem seems to
be that the points slip off the tool very easily and, when they do, it sends
a shock through the frame which can cause the mirror to crack, even though
I'm using a masonite backing board. I haven't been able to find a tool to
adequately drive a point into oak without the risk of cracking the glass -
they all seem geared to small picture frames. The one I have presses the
point into the wood but, again, it slips. Others "fire" a point in, and
that implies a shock as well.
I'm not new to woodworking and I know I could fudge something, but I want to
to find something that looks good even though that part of it is facing a
wall. Any ideas?
Thanks much!
Paul
On Aug 26, 11:59=A0am, "Paul Wolsko" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Looking for some advice:
>
> I've made an oak frame for a large mirror and now I need to set the mirro=
r
> into the frame. =A0I've got a Fletcher point driver,
Oak isn't the best wood for puttied-in windows, which is
the usual place to use glazier's points.
In oak, you might want to use a screw-and-washer retainer, or
brad-setter and moulding (shaped like glue blocks, but removable).
For safety, don't rely on glue alone.
On Wed, 26 Aug 2009 14:59:18 -0400, "Paul Wolsko"
<[email protected]> wrote:
> Others "fire" a point in, and
>that implies a shock as well.
I've used these and they work great. I don't think I've used it on
oak, but did on walnut recently. Sure there's a shock but it's not
going to break the glass.
-Kevin
I have always done a stepped rabbet with a deeper cut for the glass
and a shallower, wider cut for the backer masonite or ply, etc. Then I
use short truss head screws to hold the backer to the frame.
On Aug 26, 11:59=A0am, "Paul Wolsko" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Looking for some advice:
>
> I've made an oak frame for a large mirror and now I need to set the mirro=
r
> into the frame. =A0I've got a Fletcher point driver, but the problem seem=
s to
> be that the points slip off the tool very easily and, when they do, it se=
nds
> a shock through the frame which can cause the mirror to crack, even thoug=
h
> I'm using a masonite backing board. =A0I haven't been able to find a tool=
to
> adequately drive a point into oak without the risk of cracking the glass =
-
> they all seem geared to small picture frames. =A0The one I have presses t=
he
> point into the wood but, again, it slips. =A0Others "fire" a point in, an=
d
> that implies a shock as well.
>
> I'm not new to woodworking and I know I could fudge something, but I want=
to
> to find something that looks good even though that part of it is facing a
> wall. =A0Any ideas?
>
> Thanks much!
>
> Paul
"Paul Wolsko" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Looking for some advice:
>
> I've made an oak frame for a large mirror and now I need to set the mirror
> into the frame. I've got a Fletcher point driver, but the problem seems
> to be that the points slip off the tool very easily and, when they do, it
> sends a shock through the frame which can cause the mirror to crack, even
> though I'm using a masonite backing board. I haven't been able to find a
> tool to adequately drive a point into oak without the risk of cracking the
> glass - they all seem geared to small picture frames. The one I have
> presses the point into the wood but, again, it slips. Others "fire" a
> point in, and that implies a shock as well.
>
> I'm not new to woodworking and I know I could fudge something, but I want
> to to find something that looks good even though that part of it is facing
> a wall. Any ideas?
>
> Thanks much!
>
> Paul
is the mirror set into a rabbet in the back of the frame, or floating like a
panel in a slot in the rail/stile of the frame?
if the latter, you don't have to do anything. if the former, then you can
trap it with thin slats of wood or metal across the corners.
hint: i like to put butcher paper on the backs of all the mirrors i make
frames for. use rubber cement to hold it to the back of the frame, not on
the back of the mirror. this prevents scratches if the mirror gets slid on
the wall.
you can use non-acid cure silicone glue and no points, but i'm not sure i'd
do that on a very large mirror.
regards,
charlie
http://glassartists.org/ChaniArts
Paul Wolsko wrote:
> Looking for some advice:
>
> I've made an oak frame for a large mirror and now I need to set the mirror
> into the frame. I've got a Fletcher point driver, but the problem seems to
> be that the points slip off the tool very easily and, when they do, it sends
> a shock through the frame which can cause the mirror to crack, even though
> I'm using a masonite backing board. I haven't been able to find a tool to
> adequately drive a point into oak without the risk of cracking the glass -
> they all seem geared to small picture frames. The one I have presses the
> point into the wood but, again, it slips. Others "fire" a point in, and
> that implies a shock as well.
>
> I'm not new to woodworking and I know I could fudge something, but I want to
> to find something that looks good even though that part of it is facing a
> wall. Any ideas?
>
> Thanks much!
>
> Paul
>
>
If the mirror is large you could use a piece of 1/4 Luan or birch
plywood over the back of the mirror, not only holding it in place but
protecting the mirror form scratches. You could either glue it or use
small screws.
"SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:666e08a1-0770-48f5-acb0-736b7b0c6790@a39g2000pre.googlegroups.com...
I have always done a stepped rabbet with a deeper cut for the glass
and a shallower, wider cut for the backer masonite or ply, etc. Then I
use short truss head screws to hold the backer to the frame.
On Aug 26, 11:59 am, "Paul Wolsko" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Looking for some advice:
>
> I've made an oak frame for a large mirror and now I need to set the mirror
> into the frame. I've got a Fletcher point driver, but the problem seems to
> be that the points slip off the tool very easily and, when they do, it
> sends
> a shock through the frame which can cause the mirror to crack, even though
> I'm using a masonite backing board. I haven't been able to find a tool to
> adequately drive a point into oak without the risk of cracking the glass -
> they all seem geared to small picture frames. The one I have presses the
> point into the wood but, again, it slips. Others "fire" a point in, and
> that implies a shock as well.
>
> I'm not new to woodworking and I know I could fudge something, but I want
> to
> to find something that looks good even though that part of it is facing a
> wall. Any ideas?
>
> Thanks much!
>
> Paul
that's a good idea i'll have to steal for my next one. i make lots of frames
for my stained glass panels done with mirror for hanging on the wall.
regards,
charlie
http://www.glassartists.org/ChaniArts
Paul Wolsko wrote:
> Looking for some advice:
>
> I've made an oak frame for a large mirror and now I need to set the mirror
> into the frame. I've got a Fletcher point driver, but the problem seems to
> be that the points slip off the tool very easily and, when they do, it sends
> a shock through the frame which can cause the mirror to crack, even though
> I'm using a masonite backing board. I haven't been able to find a tool to
> adequately drive a point into oak without the risk of cracking the glass -
> they all seem geared to small picture frames. The one I have presses the
> point into the wood but, again, it slips. Others "fire" a point in, and
> that implies a shock as well.
>
> I'm not new to woodworking and I know I could fudge something, but I want to
> to find something that looks good even though that part of it is facing a
> wall. Any ideas?
>
> Thanks much!
>
> Paul
>
>
a couple brads to hold it till the glue dries...
"Paul Wolsko" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Looking for some advice:
>
> I've made an oak frame for a large mirror and now I need to set the mirror
> into the frame. I've got a Fletcher point driver, but the problem seems
> to be that the points slip off the tool very easily and, when they do, it
> sends a shock through the frame which can cause the mirror to crack, even
> though I'm using a masonite backing board. I haven't been able to find a
> tool to adequately drive a point into oak without the risk of cracking the
> glass - they all seem geared to small picture frames. The one I have
> presses the point into the wood but, again, it slips. Others "fire" a
> point in, and that implies a shock as well.
>
> I'm not new to woodworking and I know I could fudge something, but I want
> to to find something that looks good even though that part of it is facing
> a wall. Any ideas?
>
> Thanks much!
>
> Paul
Because you should not have to replace the mirror often, simply seal the
backing board in with "Mirror" grade sealer. Any glass shop should have it.
Regular sealers may damage the mirror plating, should some get the back or
the mirror.
Typically the seal is easy to cut if replacement becomes necessary.
>