These are the bits I am looking at :http://www.amazon.com/Matched-Rail-Stile-Router-Bits/dp/B008JFIZLO/ref=pd_cp_hi_2
However, it looks like they are over one inch. I guess I could purchase speed controlfor my exisiting router?
On Tuesday, March 26, 2013 8:24:47 AM UTC-5, [email protected] wrote:
> trying to decide whether to buy 1/4 inch rail and stile bits for my current ryobi benchtop table for door making as a hobby or to splurge and purchase 1/2 inch dewalt router 2 1/4 horsepower from lowes.
>
>
>
> I am not sure if the dewalt will fit my table though.
>
>
>
> This is just a hobby right now.
<[email protected]> wrote:
> So is a table saw ok if not doing a arched type raised panel?
>
> If I were to get a bigger router, how could I tell if I can make it
> work on my benchtop ryobi table?
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Face that decision when you need to address it, mean while,
you have a 1/4" router that probably operates around 22-25,000 RPM.
Stick with bits that are 1" dia max and you are good to go.
As far as a router table is concerned, I've been in shops that used a
couple
of saw horses with a 36 x 36 x 3/4 piece of MDF as the table.
The fixed base of a 3 HP router was mounted to the bottom side and
they
were in business.
About as down and dirty as it gets, but it works.
Down the road, if you want to pursue the hobby, get a set of drawings
from
the NYW and build their router work station.
I built one, it was a fun project and very usefull.
Then you can spend some serious money and buy a
Milwaukee 5625, 3 HP, Router to mount in the station.
Now you have a router that will safely swing those 3" router bits.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
> Most of my tools are not great quality. I have a delta benchtop
> table saw from lowes, a harbor freight miter saw, a 1950's era
> jointer, a craftsman planer and the ryobi benchtop router and table.
> I wish I had better stuff....
---------------------------------------------------------------
Don't sweat the petty stuff, we all start some place.
BTW, age does not devalue a tool.
Try some simple projects that can be built using the tools you have
at first, not including cutting bits (drill, router, etc).
If you like it, buy a new tool for the next project.
Check out WoodSmithShop on line and if you have PBS available.
They have some interesting projects and the plans are free.
Have fun.
Lew
So you mounted the router straight to the 1/2 inch mdf and did not use an insert?
On Tuesday, March 26, 2013 8:24:47 AM UTC-5, [email protected] wrote:
> trying to decide whether to buy 1/4 inch rail and stile bits for my current ryobi benchtop table for door making as a hobby or to splurge and purchase 1/2 inch dewalt router 2 1/4 horsepower from lowes.
>
>
>
> I am not sure if the dewalt will fit my table though.
>
>
>
> This is just a hobby right now.
So is a table saw ok if not doing a arched type raised panel?
If I were to get a bigger router, how could I tell if I can make it work on my benchtop ryobi table?
Most of my tools are not great quality. I have a delta benchtop table saw from lowes, a harbor freight miter saw, a 1950's era jointer, a craftsman planer and the ryobi benchtop router and table. I wish I had better stuff....
On Tuesday, March 26, 2013 8:24:47 AM UTC-5, [email protected] wrote:
> trying to decide whether to buy 1/4 inch rail and stile bits for my current ryobi benchtop table for door making as a hobby or to splurge and purchase 1/2 inch dewalt router 2 1/4 horsepower from lowes.
>
>
>
> I am not sure if the dewalt will fit my table though.
>
>
>
> This is just a hobby right now.
On 3/26/2013 4:19 PM, Dave wrote:
> On Tue, 26 Mar 2013 09:28:37 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>>> Sorry for all the questions.
>> Actually woodworking questions are more than welcome.
>
> NO, NO, NO! If he wants to ask questions here, he first has to take
> part in a newsgroup wide argument ~ with cursing and swearing being a
> highly desired attribute.
>
> Where have you been Leon? Don't you know how this newsgroup works?
>
I have always been some what of a closet renegade.
On 3/26/2013 9:08 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> Is varible spped control required for 1/4 inch bits?
Not as long as the largest part of the bit, the cutting end, is no more
than 1" in diameter. Bits that small are typically run at 20k+ RPM.
Because of the greater tip speed on the larger diameter bits you need to
slow them down.
>
> I am wanting to make a vanity mirror frame for my wifes bathroom and thought it would be a good project. I thought I could do raised panels on the table saw or get a 1/4 inch verticle raised panel bit.
I am not a big fan of the vertical raised panel bits as they will only
cut straight edges, you have to go horizontal bits for panels with
arches or concave profiles. Also with a 1/4" shank vertical bit I would
think you would stand a much greater chance of incurring increased run
out and less desirable results.
> Sorry for all the questions.
Actually woodworking questions are more than welcome.
>
>
> On Tuesday, March 26, 2013 8:24:47 AM UTC-5, [email protected] wrote:
>> trying to decide whether to buy 1/4 inch rail and stile bits for my current ryobi benchtop table for door making as a hobby or to splurge and purchase 1/2 inch dewalt router 2 1/4 horsepower from lowes.
>>
>>
>>
>> I am not sure if the dewalt will fit my table though.
>>
>>
>>
>> This is just a hobby right now.
>
[email protected] wrote in news:e2819e59-926d-4925-b1b0-
[email protected]:
> trying to decide whether to buy 1/4 inch rail and stile bits for my current ryobi benchtop table
for door making as a hobby or to splurge and purchase 1/2 inch dewalt router 2 1/4
horsepower from lowes.
>
> I am not sure if the dewalt will fit my table though.
>
> This is just a hobby right now.
>
If you're just making rails and stiles, 1/4" is probably sufficient... but if you plan also on making
raised panels (which requires a larger-diameter cutter) you will definitely need the larger
shank and more powerful router.
[email protected] wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> So is a table saw ok if not doing a arched type raised panel?
If you make raised panels on a table saw, you're limited to panels
with beveled or coved edges. With a router, you can produce
whatever type of edges you can find a bit for.
>
> If I were to get a bigger router, how could I tell if I can make
> it work on my benchtop ryobi table?
RTFM. The owner's manual for the router table probably tells what routers will and won't fit it.
> Most of my tools are not great quality. I have a delta benchtop
> table saw from lowes, a harbor freight miter saw, a 1950's era
> jointer, a craftsman planer and the ryobi benchtop router and
> table. I wish I had better stuff....
Lots of people have done very good work with tools no better than that. Don't worry about
upgrading your tools until you find that your technique has improved to the point that your
ability to produce better work is limited by the tools and not by your own skills.
[email protected] wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> These are the bits I am looking at
> :http://www.amazon.com/Matched-Rail-Stile-Router-Bits/dp/B008JFIZ
> LO/ref=pd_cp_hi_2
>
> However, it looks like they are over one inch. I guess I could
> purchase speed controlfor my exisiting router?
At 1 5/8" diameter, I don't think that's going to be a problem. I wouldn't go larger than that
without a speed controller, or a variable-speed router, though.
[email protected] wrote in news:f613b803-7929-4cb2-ad46-
[email protected]:
> Unfortunately my table was a gift many years ago. I dont have the manual.
So check the manufacturer's web site to see if you can download or purchase one.
Is varible spped control required for 1/4 inch bits?
I am wanting to make a vanity mirror frame for my wifes bathroom and thought it would be a good project. I thought I could do raised panels on the table saw or get a 1/4 inch verticle raised panel bit.
Sorry for all the questions.
On Tuesday, March 26, 2013 8:24:47 AM UTC-5, [email protected] wrote:
> trying to decide whether to buy 1/4 inch rail and stile bits for my current ryobi benchtop table for door making as a hobby or to splurge and purchase 1/2 inch dewalt router 2 1/4 horsepower from lowes.
>
>
>
> I am not sure if the dewalt will fit my table though.
>
>
>
> This is just a hobby right now.
Unfortunately my table was a gift many years ago. I dont have the manual.
On Tuesday, March 26, 2013 8:24:47 AM UTC-5, [email protected] wrote:
> trying to decide whether to buy 1/4 inch rail and stile bits for my current ryobi benchtop table for door making as a hobby or to splurge and purchase 1/2 inch dewalt router 2 1/4 horsepower from lowes.
>
>
>
> I am not sure if the dewalt will fit my table though.
>
>
>
> This is just a hobby right now.
Very nice!
Did you do the raised panel doors on the same set up?
On Tuesday, March 26, 2013 8:24:47 AM UTC-5, [email protected] wrote:
> trying to decide whether to buy 1/4 inch rail and stile bits for my current ryobi benchtop table for door making as a hobby or to splurge and purchase 1/2 inch dewalt router 2 1/4 horsepower from lowes.
>
>
>
> I am not sure if the dewalt will fit my table though.
>
>
>
> This is just a hobby right now.
On 3/26/13 9:54 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> These are the bits I am looking at
> :http://www.amazon.com/Matched-Rail-Stile-Router-Bits/dp/B008JFIZLO/ref=pd_cp_hi_2
>
> However, it looks like they are over one inch. I guess I could
> purchase speed controlfor my exisiting router?
>
The problem with a speed control unit on a weaker router is that you'll
lose horsepower, fast, when you lower the speed. I think you'd be
frustrated by how slowly it cuts.
>> I am not sure if the dewalt will fit my table though.
>>
No one ever regrets getting a better router. :-)
If you're worried about the table, you could build your own, on the cheap.
Don't be intimidated by all the Cadillac router tables you see on the
internet.
You don't need all those bells and whistles to do great work.
http://mikedrums.com/bookcases.jpg
I made all the trim and molding for these book cases with my Porter
Cable router mounted to the bottom of a 1/2" sheet a melamine, which was
the top of a makeshift assembly table.
I just used the plastic base to mark the three mounting holes, then
drilled countersunk holes for the mounting screws and a bigger hole in
the center for the bits.
When I needed a fence, I cut slots in the tabletop. When I needed
feather-boards, I screwed them down directly to the table top.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
[email protected] wrote:
> These are the bits I am looking at
> :http://www.amazon.com/Matched-Rail-Stile-Router-Bits/dp/B008JFIZLO/ref=pd_cp_hi_2
>
> However, it looks like they are over one inch. I guess I could
> purchase speed controlfor my exisiting router?
There is no problem with their size. A rabbet bit is as big.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net
On 3/26/13 1:02 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> So you mounted the router straight to the 1/2 inch mdf and did not
> use an insert?
>
Assuming you're replying to me :-).....
Yep, directly to the tabletop. No seems and the melamine was very
smooth, so the wood moved effortlessly across the top.
Your router probably has some sort of plastic plates that sits on it
when it's not in the table mount, right? That can be used as a template.
If not, get some cheap little allen head set screw the same thread as
the router base. Insert them, point side out, into the router base, dab
a little nail polish or paint or oil on the tips. Place the router down
or up against the mdf (or whatever you use) and it will mark the holes.
You can also sharpen the allen screws to pointy tips and just press hard
to leave indents in the table top to mark the hole locations.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 3/26/13 1:06 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>
>
> Very nice!
> Did you do the raised panel doors on the same set up?
>
I don't know what you're using to read and post to this newsgroup, but
it seems to be clipping out quoted content. Just to help us give you
better answers, you may want to try to cut-n-paste the text you're
asking about or replying to, just so we have a better understanding of
your questions.
I'm going to assume (maybe falsely :-) you're replying to me.
The raised panel doors are fake! They're just 3/4" finish plywood
panels, with a rectangular "trench" routed out, then trim molding
attached for a faux panel look.
The little pieced to create the faux panels may be the only pieces of
trim I bought and didn't make. The large cove in the crown at the top
was made on the table saw. Then the other curves were done wit the
router table.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 3/27/13 11:33 AM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
> As far as a router table is concerned, I've been in shops that used a
> couple of saw horses with a 36 x 36 x 3/4 piece of MDF as the table.
>
> The fixed base of a 3 HP router was mounted to the bottom side and
> they were in business.
Yep. I find that starting with minimalism and going from there helps
you rule out a bunch of crap you don't need that is generally included
in the $500+ tables you see in the catalogs.
When you do decide to buy some router-table specific doohickey it's
because you genuinely want/need it to improve upon technique you've
already acquired for using a router.
The cart goes in front of the horse with a lot of guys who buy all that
crap before ever touching a router. They think they have to use all the
bells and whistle and let that stuff dictate the what and how in their
projects.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On Tue, 26 Mar 2013 09:28:37 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>> Sorry for all the questions.
>Actually woodworking questions are more than welcome.
NO, NO, NO! If he wants to ask questions here, he first has to take
part in a newsgroup wide argument ~ with cursing and swearing being a
highly desired attribute.
Where have you been Leon? Don't you know how this newsgroup works?
"Doug Miller" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>Lots of people have done very good work with tools no better than that.
>Don't worry about
>upgrading your tools until you find that your technique has improved to the
>point that your
>ability to produce better work is limited by the tools and not by your own
>skills.
Good advice... another dimension I'd include in that assessment is safety.
If the material you are working with is too big for the tools you have you
may need bigger tools or another way to perform the task. For example, I
went to a heavy 8" jointer when I had my 6" jointer standing on end while
jointing long heavy stock. I went to the 3 HP shaper with it's larger table
and more power when I struggled on two jobs in a row with my 1.5 HP shaper.
It's the old "if it feels unsafe it probably is unsafe" philosophy.
John
On 3/26/2013 8:24 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> trying to decide whether to buy 1/4 inch rail and stile bits for my current ryobi benchtop table for door making as a hobby or to splurge and purchase 1/2 inch dewalt router 2 1/4 horsepower from lowes.
>
> I am not sure if the dewalt will fit my table though.
>
> This is just a hobby right now.
>
1/4" shank bits are fine for lite work and as long as you take shallow
passes to remove stock. Not even a bad idea with a worn 1/2" shank bit.
That said, most better quality 1/4" shank bits are turned down the same
sized material that 1/2" bit are made from so the big deal in investment
expense will be the up grade to a larger capacity router. The
difference in price between like 1/2" and 1/4" shank bits is slight and
especially if you buy a set of bits.