Greetings!
I am looking at purchasing a previously used table saw from the local tool
reseller.
Specifically, I am looking at one of the craftsman contractor models from
the late 50's / early 60's.
Can anybody offer me any useful advice on this? I am looking at spending
around $200-$250 for it.
Any recommendations and/or thoughts would be appreciated.
Just as an FYI, I am only using this as a stopgap until I can finally
acquire a saw-stop saw. So, I just need something for the short term.
thanks again.
Rob
On Sep 8, 6:22 pm, "Rob McConachie" <[email protected]>
wrote:
> Now *that* *was* informative...
> thoughts? opinions? suggestions?
the older and the heavier the better if you're looking for an
inexpensive machine.
On Sep 7, 10:34 pm, "Rob McConachie" <[email protected]>
wrote:
> Greetings!
>
> I am looking at purchasing a previously used table saw from the local tool
> reseller.
>
> Specifically, I am looking at one of the craftsman contractor models from
> the late 50's / early 60's.
>
> Can anybody offer me any useful advice on this? I am looking at spending
> around $200-$250 for it.
>
> Any recommendations and/or thoughts would be appreciated.
>
> Just as an FYI, I am only using this as a stopgap until I can finally
> acquire a saw-stop saw. So, I just need something for the short term.
>
> thanks again.
>
> Rob
About 10 years ago, I bought a mid-70's full size Craftsman table saw
for $100. It's the same saw as shown in the first picture here:
http://owwm.com/PhotoIndex/detail.asp?id=2404
All it needed was a new belt, a blade and a little cleanup. I still
feel it was the best $100 I ever spent on a tool. Of course, I spent
another $50 on a rolling base kit...
Oh yeah, I moved the switch to the left front of the table so it was
easy/safer to reach.
Rob McConachie wrote:
> Greetings!
>
> I am looking at purchasing a previously used table saw from the local tool
> reseller.
>
> Specifically, I am looking at one of the craftsman contractor models from
> the late 50's / early 60's.
>
> Can anybody offer me any useful advice on this? I am looking at spending
> around $200-$250 for it.
>
Around Detroit these saws can be had for ~$150, sometimes less.
{snip}
> Just as an FYI, I am only using this as a stopgap until I can finally
> acquire a saw-stop saw. So, I just need something for the short term.
>
{snip}
Taking you at your word that this is just a stop-gap, and not long term.....
A Craftsman might just be what you want, if the price is right. Other
replies have addressed that issue.
But, beware... under the table, the trunnion bolts fit into threaded holes
which for some models soft iron threaded holes. The threaded holes could be
damaged, or torqued too tight for you to loosen for adjustment. Be sure
that all six trunnion bolts are there, and can be loosened and re-torqued.
If you cannot adjust the blade to be square with the miter gage slot, and
have it hold it's alignment, then why bother as that saw is toast?
Also, don't forget to check for the arbor bearing for noise. Is it a couple
of sealed pressed fit bearings that might be replaced, or a brass sleeve
bearing all wore out by saw dust which cannot be replaced?
Also, try to stay away from the direct drive TS from craftsman. IMHO, the
motor on the rear with a belt pulley models are a better saw.
If so equipped, inspect the stamped metal legs of the base, and the
retractable wheels and fixed feet for any damage. Sometimes the cheap
stamped metal legs get a bend in them from use which makes base unuseable.
Best of luck until you get the saw of your dreams.
Phil
On Fri, 7 Sep 2007 22:34:14 -0400, "Rob McConachie"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Greetings!
>
>I am looking at purchasing a previously used table saw from the local tool
>reseller.
>
>Specifically, I am looking at one of the craftsman contractor models from
>the late 50's / early 60's.
>
>Can anybody offer me any useful advice on this? I am looking at spending
>around $200-$250 for it.
>
>Any recommendations and/or thoughts would be appreciated.
>
>Just as an FYI, I am only using this as a stopgap until I can finally
>acquire a saw-stop saw. So, I just need something for the short term.
Go to my webpage for an article about Craftsman saws of about that
vintage. I had one for ten or fifteen years, and can speak fairly
definitively about it.
It can be an 'okay' saw. It needs some upgrades to get to that point,
and it's a compromise every step of the way.
--
LRod
Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite
Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999
http://www.woodbutcher.net
Proud participant of rec.woodworking since February, 1997
email addy de-spam-ified due to 1,000 spams per month.
If you can't figure out how to use it, I probably wouldn't
care to correspond with you anyway.
Now *that* *was* informative...
That appears to be the same model that I was looking at. Since it is a tool
reseller, I expect the price to be a little higher than "garage sale"
prices.
But, you have valid points. Also, when I went to woodcraft the other day,
they were suggesting that I look at Steel City saws. Intersting but not
quite enough to sway me.
I still would like a unisaw or a pm66. our local craigslist has a pm66 for
$1k. I might investigate that a little further.
However, the Ridgid TS3650 also intrigues me...
thoughts? opinions? suggestions?
Rob
"LRod" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Fri, 7 Sep 2007 22:34:14 -0400, "Rob McConachie"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>Greetings!
>>
>>I am looking at purchasing a previously used table saw from the local tool
>>reseller.
>>
>>Specifically, I am looking at one of the craftsman contractor models from
>>the late 50's / early 60's.
>>
>>Can anybody offer me any useful advice on this? I am looking at spending
>>around $200-$250 for it.
>>
>>Any recommendations and/or thoughts would be appreciated.
>>
>>Just as an FYI, I am only using this as a stopgap until I can finally
>>acquire a saw-stop saw. So, I just need something for the short term.
>
> Go to my webpage for an article about Craftsman saws of about that
> vintage. I had one for ten or fifteen years, and can speak fairly
> definitively about it.
>
> It can be an 'okay' saw. It needs some upgrades to get to that point,
> and it's a compromise every step of the way.
>
> --
> LRod
>
> Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite
>
> Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999
>
> http://www.woodbutcher.net
>
> Proud participant of rec.woodworking since February, 1997
>
> email addy de-spam-ified due to 1,000 spams per month.
> If you can't figure out how to use it, I probably wouldn't
> care to correspond with you anyway.
I didnt know if the mid-90's tools were of good quality.
I have heard that older tools (50's-60's) were the end of the "quality"
tool.
I would perfer a delta over a craftsman but i have yet to find one. The
other choice I am considering is to rip on my 18" bandsaw and then edge the
boards with a plane. But, currently, I am lacking that essential skill (and
a plane to do it with).
Rob
"B A R R Y" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Fri, 7 Sep 2007 22:34:14 -0400, "Rob McConachie"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>
>>Any recommendations and/or thoughts would be appreciated.
>
> Make sure it's 10 or 12". There are a decent number of 9" saws out
> there. 9" blades are available, but you'll have to special order
> them, so forget about deals.
>
> Look carefully at the fence and locking mechanism. A decent
> replacement fence can cost $2-300, so pay attention to what's there.
>
> As Ron mentioned, you can probably get an old Delta, and I'll add a
> mid-90's Jet for a similar price, so look carefully.
>
> ---------------------------------------------
> ** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
> ---------------------------------------------
"Rob McConachie" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Greetings!
>
> I am looking at purchasing a previously used table saw from the local tool
> reseller.
>
> Specifically, I am looking at one of the craftsman contractor models from
> the late 50's / early 60's.
>
> Can anybody offer me any useful advice on this? I am looking at spending
> around $200-$250 for it.
>
> Any recommendations and/or thoughts would be appreciated.
>
> Just as an FYI, I am only using this as a stopgap until I can finally
> acquire a saw-stop saw. So, I just need something for the short term.
>
> thanks again.
>
> Rob
>
I bought an early 50s Craftsman over 30 years ago for $100.
The fence is bolted together, and these bolts work loose. If I don't pay
attention to them,
I get kickback. Kickback will get your attention. I suspect every
Craftsman made deserves
a new fence.
The rest of the saw works quite well. Of course, a prior owner removed and
discarded the
blade guard, and that is a bummer.
Mine has a repulsion start induction run motor. I had it refurbished a few
years ago. It needed
new brushes and bearings. Emerson Electric discontinued making this type
of motor in 1953;
the saw must be older than that.
All this shows that even a second line saw (such as a Craftsman) will last a
very long time.
Jim
As a stopgap it should do. Actually, we see the 70's versions of the
Craftsman cast iron saws in the local ads for $150 or so on a regular basis.
In the $200-$250 range you might pick up a used Delta with a little more
power which would be my recommendation.
I owned a 70's Craftsman for several years. Wouldn't buy another. But then
I wouldn't spend the extra bucks for a sawstop. I am very happy with my
Grizzly 1023S.
RonB
heh, I knew there was a "real" reason for a tablesaw... cabinets.
thanks.
Rob
"B A R R Y" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sat, 8 Sep 2007 08:19:13 -0400, "Rob McConachie"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>I didnt know if the mid-90's tools were of good quality.
>
> The Jets and Delta contractor saws are. Even recent Jet and Delta
> contractor's saws are plenty usable for very fine work. I had a GREAT
> 1997 Jet 1 1/2 HP contractor's saw. A nick of tuning, and possibly a
> link belt and/or some tube sand on the legs and the saw will be more
> accurate than you are.
>
>>I have heard that older tools (50's-60's) were the end of the "quality"
>>tool.
>
> You may have been slightly misled.
>
> You're not talking big 'urn, but a contractor's saw. Some of that is
> also nostalgia. My cabinet saw is *gasp* a 2002 General! <G>
>
>>The
>>other choice I am considering is to rip on my 18" bandsaw and then edge
>>the
>>boards with a plane.
>
> That'll work! I know a woodworking instructor who does exactly that.
> His home "almost neader" shop has exactly one power tool, a band saw.
>
> Of course, the first time you want to whip out some plywood or MDF
> repetitive cabinet parts, or long strips of moldings, you'll want a
> table saw.
>
> ---------------------------------------------
> ** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
> ---------------------------------------------
On Sat, 8 Sep 2007 08:19:13 -0400, "Rob McConachie"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I didnt know if the mid-90's tools were of good quality.
The Jets and Delta contractor saws are. Even recent Jet and Delta
contractor's saws are plenty usable for very fine work. I had a GREAT
1997 Jet 1 1/2 HP contractor's saw. A nick of tuning, and possibly a
link belt and/or some tube sand on the legs and the saw will be more
accurate than you are.
>I have heard that older tools (50's-60's) were the end of the "quality"
>tool.
You may have been slightly misled.
You're not talking big 'urn, but a contractor's saw. Some of that is
also nostalgia. My cabinet saw is *gasp* a 2002 General! <G>
>The
>other choice I am considering is to rip on my 18" bandsaw and then edge the
>boards with a plane.
That'll work! I know a woodworking instructor who does exactly that.
His home "almost neader" shop has exactly one power tool, a band saw.
Of course, the first time you want to whip out some plywood or MDF
repetitive cabinet parts, or long strips of moldings, you'll want a
table saw.
---------------------------------------------
** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
---------------------------------------------
On Fri, 7 Sep 2007 22:34:14 -0400, "Rob McConachie"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>Any recommendations and/or thoughts would be appreciated.
Make sure it's 10 or 12". There are a decent number of 9" saws out
there. 9" blades are available, but you'll have to special order
them, so forget about deals.
Look carefully at the fence and locking mechanism. A decent
replacement fence can cost $2-300, so pay attention to what's there.
As Ron mentioned, you can probably get an old Delta, and I'll add a
mid-90's Jet for a similar price, so look carefully.
---------------------------------------------
** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
---------------------------------------------
On Sat, 08 Sep 2007 20:43:24 -0700, DerbyDad03 <[email protected]>
wrote:
>About 10 years ago, I bought a mid-70's full size Craftsman table saw
>for $100. It's the same saw as shown in the first picture here:
>
>http://owwm.com/PhotoIndex/detail.asp?id=2404
>
>All it needed was a new belt, a blade and a little cleanup. I still
>feel it was the best $100 I ever spent on a tool. Of course, I spent
>another $50 on a rolling base kit...
>
>Oh yeah, I moved the switch to the left front of the table so it was
>easy/safer to reach.
I've got one that I inherited from my paternal grandfather. The fence
was replaced with a biesemeyer home version and I'm happy with it.
I wouldn't pay more than about $100 for one unless it had a good blade
and had been outfitted with a good aftermarket fence. As indicated
earlier the fences on these saws are not very good.
===========================================================================
Chris
--
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