I'm using the stock blade that came with my saw, and have been cutting
plywood with it. On the cuts where I'm cutting from a large (48") section,
I tended to get a lot of tearout on the veneer layer. However, when
cutting smaller sections (16-24"), I got much less tearout. Is this just a
technique thing, or is it the blade's fault too?
If it's the blade's fault, what kind of blades should I be looking at? Is
there one that will do an excellent job on plywood and a good job on rip
cuts? (Changing blades isn't my idea of fun.)
Puckdropper
--
You can only do so much with caulk, cardboard, and duct tape.
To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm
"BobS" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Phisherman said:
>
>> One recommendation is to place good-side down and raise the blade.
>
> Even with a zero-clearance insert I don't think putting the good side
> down on a tablesaw is a good idea. But I've never tried doing it that
> way either. Does that really work?
>
> Bob S.
>
>
I doubt it. Where I got the most tearout was actually on the lower side.
The cutting of the teeth pulled the veneer away from the glued surface.
Puckdropper
--
New Computer! Working out the migration details...
David Starr <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
>
> If you get tearout on big pieces but not on small pieces it does
> suggest that the big plywood sheets are bowing and the underside is
> lifting off the saw table. Rasseling a 4*8 piece of sheet goods thru
> a table saw or a RAS single handed is difficult, and you have to
> expect a bit of sag in the material as it hangs off the ends and sides
> of the table. If the stuff lifts off the table just a skosh, you can
> get tearout. Wings on the table, roller stands, and/or a helper might
> improve the cut.
> As far as blades go. Back in the steel blade days I had (still
> have)
> a rip blade, a planer blade and a plywood blade. And the plywood
> blade did give a smoother cut on plywood. Then I got a plain old
> Vermont American 40 tooth carbide blade at the Borg. It cuts
> everything smoother than any of the steel blades ever did, and it's
> still doing it after a long long time on the saw. Far as I am
> concerned, any decent carbide blade with a goodly number of teeth is
> about as good as it gets.
>
Thanks for everyone's suggestions. I'll put a better blade on my
wishlist, and keep an eye out. I know several people in here like the
Forest WWII, so I'll definately look for that.
I'm certain the plywood was bowing a bit. I'll have to see what I can do
about it next time. (Cross cut sled, perhaps?)
Puckdropper
--
This .sig typed manually.
On Wed, 30 Apr 2008 20:31:44 -0400, "BobS" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Phisherman said:
>
>> One recommendation is to place good-side down and raise the blade.
>
>Even with a zero-clearance insert I don't think putting the good side down
>on a tablesaw is a good idea. But I've never tried doing it that way either.
>Does that really work?
No.
---------------------------------------------
** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
---------------------------------------------
"PDQ" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
Easier than changing a blade, which would also be a good idea, is to lay a
strip of masking tape over the cut line to keep the veneer where it belongs.
P D Q
You stole my idea...;-)
But I'll add a word of caution. Use low adhesive type tape (think 3M Blue)
and when you peel it off, peel it at almost a ~ 90° angle to the line of
tape, flat to the surface and pull it away from the veneer edge - not
towards the plywood. If not, you create tear also. Pull slowly but steady
and if you do get tear, the piece is captured on the tape so you could glue
it back in place if needed. Try a practice piece and get the feel for
pulling the tape off. Different plywood's will tear no matter what you try
but using a zero-clearance insert, plywood blade with Leon's and PDQ's
suggestion are certainly good starting points.
You can also score the cut line through the veneer on the good face side
(which goes face up on the TS) with a sharp blade and a straight-edge. Then
make the cut right on the scored line. If you can spare a kerf of plywood,
make a cut about 1/16th away (on the waste side) of the scored line then
sneak up on the cut line.
A good plywood blade helps too....
Bob S.
"Phisherman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 29 Apr 2008 20:38:28 GMT, Puckdropper
> <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
>
>>I'm using the stock blade that came with my saw, and have been cutting
>>plywood with it. On the cuts where I'm cutting from a large (48")
>>section,
>>I tended to get a lot of tearout on the veneer layer. However, when
>>cutting smaller sections (16-24"), I got much less tearout. Is this just
>>a
>>technique thing, or is it the blade's fault too?
>>
>>If it's the blade's fault, what kind of blades should I be looking at? Is
>>there one that will do an excellent job on plywood and a good job on rip
>>cuts? (Changing blades isn't my idea of fun.)
>>
>>Puckdropper
>
>
> If you see a hairy edge the blade may be dull. There are combination
> blades designed to cut various materials. While this kind of blade
> reduces blade changing, you will get a better cut using a blade
> designed for the specific kind of material. Blade quality as well as
> sharpness makes a big difference. Perhaps you should try a blade
> specifically designed for laminated materials. One recommendation is
> to place good-side down and raise the blade.
Some blades cut differently at different projections. Test cut the plywood
with the blade fully raised and compare with one that is just slightly
higher than the wood. You will find that the best cut is often with the
blade projecting about 1/4" above the wood, but some blades will have their
best cut at a different position.
Puckdropper wrote:
> I'm using the stock blade that came with my saw, and have been cutting
> plywood with it. On the cuts where I'm cutting from a large (48") section,
> I tended to get a lot of tearout on the veneer layer. However, when
> cutting smaller sections (16-24"), I got much less tearout. Is this just a
> technique thing, or is it the blade's fault too?
>
> If it's the blade's fault, what kind of blades should I be looking at? Is
> there one that will do an excellent job on plywood and a good job on rip
> cuts? (Changing blades isn't my idea of fun.)
>
> Puckdropper
If you get tearout on big pieces but not on small pieces it does suggest
that the big plywood sheets are bowing and the underside is lifting off
the saw table. Rasseling a 4*8 piece of sheet goods thru a table saw or
a RAS single handed is difficult, and you have to expect a bit of sag in
the material as it hangs off the ends and sides of the table. If the
stuff lifts off the table just a skosh, you can get tearout. Wings on
the table, roller stands, and/or a helper might improve the cut.
As far as blades go. Back in the steel blade days I had (still have)
a rip blade, a planer blade and a plywood blade. And the plywood blade
did give a smoother cut on plywood. Then I got a plain old Vermont
American 40 tooth carbide blade at the Borg. It cuts everything
smoother than any of the steel blades ever did, and it's still doing it
after a long long time on the saw. Far as I am concerned, any decent
carbide blade with a goodly number of teeth is about as good as it gets.
--
David J. Starr
Blog: www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
"Puckdropper" wrote:
> I'm using the stock blade that came with my saw, and have been
> cutting
> plywood with it. On the cuts where I'm cutting from a large (48")
> section,
> I tended to get a lot of tearout on the veneer layer. However, when
> cutting smaller sections (16-24"), I got much less tearout. Is this
> just a
> technique thing, or is it the blade's fault too?
>
> If it's the blade's fault, what kind of blades should I be looking
> at? Is
> there one that will do an excellent job on plywood and a good job on
> rip
> cuts? (Changing blades isn't my idea of fun.)
Cutting 4x8 sheet goods on a table saw can be a real PITA unless you
have adequate infeed and runout tables.
Trying to cut sheet goods down to size using a rip blade is also a
PITA.
Changing blades is NBD, IMHO.
Suggest you consider a good set of carbide tipped blades, 24T, 50T &
80T for your T/S and use a saber or circular saw to break down sheet
goods into proud pieces that are then finished at the T/S.
Using an 80T blade and a zero clearance insert, you will get clean
cuts.
Why fight changing blades?
WFM
YMMV
Lew
"Puckdropper" <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm using the stock blade that came with my saw, and have been cutting
> plywood with it. On the cuts where I'm cutting from a large (48")
> section,
> I tended to get a lot of tearout on the veneer layer. However, when
> cutting smaller sections (16-24"), I got much less tearout. Is this
> just a
> technique thing, or is it the blade's fault too?
>
> If it's the blade's fault, what kind of blades should I be looking at?
> Is
> there one that will do an excellent job on plywood and a good job on
> rip
> cuts? (Changing blades isn't my idea of fun.)
>
> Puckdropper
> --
> You can only do so much with caulk, cardboard, and duct tape.
>
> To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm
A cutting rack, a guide and a circular saw with a good blade will solve
all that.
No blade changing, accurate cuts and no tear out.
IMHO.
Max
Easier than changing a blade, which would also be a good idea, is to lay =
a strip of masking tape over the cut line to keep the veneer where it =
belongs.
P D Q
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message =
news:[email protected]...
>=20
> "Puckdropper" <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote in message=20
> news:[email protected]...
> > I'm using the stock blade that came with my saw, and have been =
cutting
> > plywood with it. On the cuts where I'm cutting from a large (48")=20
> > section,
> > I tended to get a lot of tearout on the veneer layer. However, when
> > cutting smaller sections (16-24"), I got much less tearout. Is this =
just=20
> > a
> > technique thing, or is it the blade's fault too?
> >
> > If it's the blade's fault, what kind of blades should I be looking =
at? Is
> > there one that will do an excellent job on plywood and a good job on =
rip
> > cuts? (Changing blades isn't my idea of fun.)
> >
> > Puckdropper
> > --=20
> > You can only do so much with caulk, cardboard, and duct tape.
> >
> > To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm
>=20
> Several things come into play.
>=20
> First, almost all plywood has some bow to it and the larger the piece =
the=20
> more likely. Small pieces reduce this bow. If the bow causes the =
wood to=20
> lift from the table at the blade, the cut at that point has no support =
as=20
> the blade cuts down through the bottom of the panel. Tear out is the =
usual=20
> result.
>=20
> Second, to help reduce this on smaller panels and all other cuts use a =
zero=20
> clearance insert. This supports the wood up to the point of contact =
with=20
> the blade.
>=20
> Third, a better blade will give you better results. A good all around =
blade=20
> for solid woods, plywoods, MDF whether ripping, cross cutting or =
making=20
> compound angle cuts is the Forrest WWII. Pricey but unless I cut =
dado's on=20
> my saw I use that blade for all cuts.=20
>=20
>
On 29 Apr 2008 20:38:28 GMT, Puckdropper
<puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
>I'm using the stock blade that came with my saw, and have been cutting
>plywood with it. On the cuts where I'm cutting from a large (48") section,
>I tended to get a lot of tearout on the veneer layer. However, when
>cutting smaller sections (16-24"), I got much less tearout. Is this just a
>technique thing, or is it the blade's fault too?
>
>If it's the blade's fault, what kind of blades should I be looking at? Is
>there one that will do an excellent job on plywood and a good job on rip
>cuts? (Changing blades isn't my idea of fun.)
>
>Puckdropper
If you see a hairy edge the blade may be dull. There are combination
blades designed to cut various materials. While this kind of blade
reduces blade changing, you will get a better cut using a blade
designed for the specific kind of material. Blade quality as well as
sharpness makes a big difference. Perhaps you should try a blade
specifically designed for laminated materials. One recommendation is
to place good-side down and raise the blade.
"Puckdropper" <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm using the stock blade that came with my saw, and have been cutting
> plywood with it. On the cuts where I'm cutting from a large (48")
> section,
> I tended to get a lot of tearout on the veneer layer. However, when
> cutting smaller sections (16-24"), I got much less tearout. Is this just
> a
> technique thing, or is it the blade's fault too?
>
> If it's the blade's fault, what kind of blades should I be looking at? Is
> there one that will do an excellent job on plywood and a good job on rip
> cuts? (Changing blades isn't my idea of fun.)
>
> Puckdropper
> --
> You can only do so much with caulk, cardboard, and duct tape.
>
> To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm
Several things come into play.
First, almost all plywood has some bow to it and the larger the piece the
more likely. Small pieces reduce this bow. If the bow causes the wood to
lift from the table at the blade, the cut at that point has no support as
the blade cuts down through the bottom of the panel. Tear out is the usual
result.
Second, to help reduce this on smaller panels and all other cuts use a zero
clearance insert. This supports the wood up to the point of contact with
the blade.
Third, a better blade will give you better results. A good all around blade
for solid woods, plywoods, MDF whether ripping, cross cutting or making
compound angle cuts is the Forrest WWII. Pricey but unless I cut dado's on
my saw I use that blade for all cuts.
On Wed, 30 Apr 2008 20:31:44 -0400, BobS wrote:
> Phisherman said:
>
>> One recommendation is to place good-side down and raise the blade.
>
> Even with a zero-clearance insert I don't think putting the good side down
> on a tablesaw is a good idea. But I've never tried doing it that way either.
> Does that really work?
>
> Bob S.
Naaah - he got it backwards. Good side down for a circular saw, up for a
table saw.
On Thu, 01 May 2008 15:32:07 +0000, Puckdropper wrote:
> Thanks for everyone's suggestions. I'll put a better blade on my
> wishlist, and keep an eye out. I know several people in here like the
> Forest WWII, so I'll definately look for that.
That's a good blade and I've used it, but I still like a plywood blade for
plywood. I replaced my old one with a new Freud a month or so ago and it
works great. Even on the down side any chipout is hard to see.
"Puckdropper" <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> David Starr <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
.
>
> I'm certain the plywood was bowing a bit. I'll have to see what I can do
> about it next time. (Cross cut sled, perhaps?)
A cross cut sled can certainly help on many cuts but will not help if the
stock bows up, it will still bow up on the sled also.