Hello,
I am planning to use sliding dovetails in my current project.
my understanding of the "beast" is: cut the dovetailed dadoo with your
router setup to the depth that you want
use the same router setup to cut the sliding in part (staying vertical and
being carefull about the placement)..
I was planning to use my router in a hand setup for the sliding part and
with a table setup and the fence for the vertical, but is this the best way?
what are the gotchas?
thanks, cyrille
I would do bot parts on the table.
Cut the channel first.
1. cut a dado or use a straight bit to hog out most of the channel.
2. Setup a bit to the height you want.
3. I prefer to not have the piece ride against the fence as it cuts
because the cutter can chatter a bit when you do that. So use a miter
gauge or sled.
If you use a miter guage, setup a guage block on the fence (like when
cross cutting on a TS) so you use it to index the location but the part
will be free of it once you push forward to start the cut.
If you use a sled, then you can set a stop block on the outside, if the
piece is short enough.
4. Cut some extras is scrap of same material so you don't gouge out
real ones when trying out pins.
Next cut the pins.
1. Leave the cutter at the same height.
2. Use a tall fence or other help to keep vertical piece vertical.
3. Make sure all pieces of stock are exact same thickness.
4. Have lots o' extra
5. Do a first pass on real pieces and a few extras with a very shallow
cut, only cutting about the top half of the cutter. The biggest problem
with long pins is getting chipout at the top of the cutter if you cut
too deep first, so a thin cut that just scores the top edge is a great
help. Cut some extras too, just for kicks.
6. If you want the pins dead center, then you need to make very fine
adjustments using test pieces and cutting both sides until you dial it
in. If you aren't so worried about that, draw out the pin on the end of
on piece, setup to cut one side and cut them all, plus some extras.
Then when you make adjustments to get the other side to fit it is 1/2
as sensitive to the fence movements (if that makes sense.
You can see a sample of a product I make that uses sliders. I've made
maybe 100 of these babies over the past few years but I'm considering
marketing them heavily once I get my Multirouter ;^). Click on the
Sushi Geta picture for a close up view.
http://www.sonomaproducts.com/Culinary/culinary.htm
Keys to successful sliding dovetails at the
http://www.dewalt.com/us/articles/article.asp?Site=3Dwoodworking&ID=3D511
link.
______________________________________________
Cyrille de Br=E9bisson wrote:
> Hello,
>
> I am planning to use sliding dovetails in my current project.
> my understanding of the "beast" is: cut the dovetailed dadoo with your
> router setup to the depth that you want
> use the same router setup to cut the sliding in part (staying vertical and
> being carefull about the placement)..
>
> I was planning to use my router in a hand setup for the sliding part and
> with a table setup and the fence for the vertical, but is this the best w=
ay?
> what are the gotchas?
>=20
> thanks, cyrille
Cyrille de Brébisson (in [email protected]) said:
| Hello,
|
| I am planning to use sliding dovetails in my current project.
| my understanding of the "beast" is: cut the dovetailed dadoo with
| your router setup to the depth that you want
| use the same router setup to cut the sliding in part (staying
| vertical and being carefull about the placement)..
|
| I was planning to use my router in a hand setup for the sliding
| part and with a table setup and the fence for the vertical, but is
| this the best way? what are the gotchas?
You might consider making an initial cut with a straight bit that's
smaller than the thinnest part of the dado you plan to cut.
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/solar.html