I've got a small joiner i purchased for next to nothing at a sale. I'll
have to take a closer look, i don't know the brand or the diameter of
the cutter unit. It's about 4" wide i believe. I'm trying to figure
out how much motor i need, what rpm, and what belt ratio to use. I'll
probably never use it for more than red oak a max of 1" thick. Any
ideas with this limited input?
thanks.
--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email
On Mar 3, 11:07=A0pm, Steve Barker <[email protected]> wrote:
> I've got a small joiner i purchased for next to nothing at a sale. =A0I'l=
l
> have to take a closer look, i don't know the brand or the diameter of
> the cutter unit. =A0It's about 4" wide i believe. =A0I'm trying to figure
> out how much motor i need, what rpm, and what belt ratio to use. =A0I'll
> probably never use it for more than red oak a max of 1" thick. =A0Any
> ideas with this limited input?
>
> thanks.
> --
> Steve Barker
> remove the "not" from my address to email
My wife picked up a 50's era 4" jointer years ago at a garage sale
(Yes - I am a LUCKY MAN!). It was mounted on a home made wooden stand
with a 3/4 horse electric mother of unknown origin. The motor was
fine for that machine because the bed was too narrow to put much
strain on it even when surface planing. That little jointer was a
good example of the tools that Sears/Craftsman provided in the early
years. Solid, well made and heavy.
BTW - I think jointer and Joiner are both OK and used interchangeably
in some WW magazines.
RonB
On Mar 4, 5:26=A0pm, DanG <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 3/4/2012 9:34 AM, RonB wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Mar 3, 11:07 pm, Steve Barker<[email protected]> =A0wrote:
> >> I've got a small joiner i purchased for next to nothing at a sale. =A0=
I'll
> >> have to take a closer look, i don't know the brand or the diameter of
> >> the cutter unit. =A0It's about 4" wide i believe. =A0I'm trying to fig=
ure
> >> out how much motor i need, what rpm, and what belt ratio to use. =A0I'=
ll
> >> probably never use it for more than red oak a max of 1" thick. =A0Any
> >> ideas with this limited input?
>
> >> thanks.
> >> --
> >> Steve Barker
> >> remove the "not" from my address to email
>
> > My wife picked up a 50's era 4" jointer years ago at a garage sale
> > (Yes - I am a LUCKY MAN!). =A0It was mounted on a home made wooden stan=
d
> > with a 3/4 horse electric mother of unknown origin. =A0The motor was
> > fine for that machine because the bed was too narrow to put much
> > strain on it even when surface planing. =A0That little jointer was a
> > good example of the tools that Sears/Craftsman provided in the early
> > years. =A0Solid, well made and heavy.
>
> > BTW - I think jointer and Joiner are both OK and used interchangeably
> > in some WW magazines.
>
> > RonB
>
> I've not EVER heard the machine called a joiner. =A0It is a jointer. =A0I
> have heard of a bisquit joiner, not the same machine - very different
> application.
>
> --
>
> ___________________________________
>
> Keep the whole world singing . . .
> Dan G
> remove the seven
Yeah, I know. A joiner is a machine used to cut slots or holes for
biscuits or similar "JOINING" devices. However, I have heard and seen
the word joiner and jointer used interchangeably for about 35 years
and it never bothered me as much is it seem to bother you. The
primary purpose of the machine is to prepare edges of lumber for
joining.
RonB
Steve Barker <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> I've got a small joiner i purchased for next to nothing at a sale.
> I'll have to take a closer look, i don't know the brand or the
> diameter of the cutter unit. It's about 4" wide i believe. I'm
> trying to figure out how much motor i need, what rpm, and what belt
> ratio to use. I'll probably never use it for more than red oak a max
> of 1" thick. Any ideas with this limited input?
>
> thanks.
I have a similar jointer, and haven't yet gotten around to running it.
A 1/3-1/2 HP motor was suggested in this thread:
http://newsgroups.derkeiler.com/Archive/Rec/rec.woodworking/2010-06/msg02
031.html
(That is a web-based mirror of the wRECk.)
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
*snip*
>
> Now if you really want to get picky, keep an eye on my posts, where
> every fifth word is misspelled, and try to figure out what I am
> saying.
> ;~)
>
And if you take a fifth of all the letters required to correct the spelling
errors, and jumble them around 5 times and take a fifth of the words they
spell, you'll get a cryptic message that not even Leon understands. :-)
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
On Mon, 05 Mar 2012 06:52:28 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>Now if you really want to get picky, keep an eye on my posts, where
>every fifth word is misspelled, and try to figure out what I am saying.
What's that you've said? Taking your miserable spelling into account,
I'm guessing that you're saying there's free food and beer at your
place all week and everybody should show up at your home anytime day
or night?
It also sounded like an invite to Swingman's place too, but I think he
might be a mean SOB, so anybody going there would take their chances.
On 3/4/2012 5:26 PM, DanG wrote:
> On 3/4/2012 9:34 AM, RonB wrote:
>> On Mar 3, 11:07 pm, Steve Barker<[email protected]> wrote:
>>> I've got a small joiner i purchased for next to nothing at a sale. I'll
>>> have to take a closer look, i don't know the brand or the diameter of
>>> the cutter unit. It's about 4" wide i believe. I'm trying to figure
>>> out how much motor i need, what rpm, and what belt ratio to use. I'll
>>> probably never use it for more than red oak a max of 1" thick. Any
>>> ideas with this limited input?
>>>
>>> thanks.
>>> --
>>> Steve Barker
>>> remove the "not" from my address to email
>>
>> My wife picked up a 50's era 4" jointer years ago at a garage sale
>> (Yes - I am a LUCKY MAN!). It was mounted on a home made wooden stand
>> with a 3/4 horse electric mother of unknown origin. The motor was
>> fine for that machine because the bed was too narrow to put much
>> strain on it even when surface planing. That little jointer was a
>> good example of the tools that Sears/Craftsman provided in the early
>> years. Solid, well made and heavy.
>>
>> BTW - I think jointer and Joiner are both OK and used interchangeably
>> in some WW magazines.
>>
>> RonB
>
> I've not EVER heard the machine called a joiner. It is a jointer. I have
> heard of a bisquit joiner, not the same machine - very different
> application.
>
Stick around a while, and you will have heard joiner and jointer used
interchangeably. While as you pointed out jointer and joiner are two
different things, then and than are very often used in place of each
other and most are not thrown off track by the miss use of those two
words.
Now if you really want to get picky, keep an eye on my posts, where
every fifth word is misspelled, and try to figure out what I am saying.
;~)
On 3/3/2012 11:07 PM, Steve Barker wrote:
> I've got a small joiner i purchased for next to nothing at a sale. I'll
> have to take a closer look, i don't know the brand or the diameter of
> the cutter unit. It's about 4" wide i believe. I'm trying to figure out
> how much motor i need, what rpm, and what belt ratio to use. I'll
> probably never use it for more than red oak a max of 1" thick. Any ideas
> with this limited input?
>
> thanks.
ok, i guess the word is JOINTER when in this particular application.
--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email
On 3/5/2012 9:10 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> On 3/4/2012 1:07 AM, Robatoy wrote:
>> If your jointer allows you to take 0.125" off
>> a 4" wide piece of oak
>
> My Dad had a jointer. It's probably still in his garage, under a few
> things. He'd run more or less all his edges through it after sawing
> them, taking off a very thin layer in a pass. We also used one in shop
> class, again for edges. All of this was when the world was young, of
> course, and my experience was limited even then. But the bit above
> confuses me.
>
> My question is this: Is an eighth-inch really a common (or safe) amount
> to take off in one pass through a jointer? Especially across the face of
> a 4" board? And why would you do this? How rough would the wood need to
> be to require the removal of that much material? Or would thinning the
> wood out be the goal?
>
> The usual caveats apply , which can be summed up under the general
> heading of "my woodworking ignorance".
I would not take 1/8" of with one pass but if your jointer will do it it
will have plenty of power.
Additionally the only surfaces you truly want to run through the jointer
are one edge and one face. If you run both edges and both faces you are
wasting material if you expect to end up with parallel surfaces and edges.
When preparing the surfaces of wood the jointer is only intended to
create flat "reference" sides and edges. Use those reference surfaces
to correctly create opposite parallel surfaces with a thickness planer
and a table saw.
On 3/5/2012 7:52 AM, Leon wrote:
> On 3/4/2012 5:26 PM, DanG wrote:
>> On 3/4/2012 9:34 AM, RonB wrote:
>>> On Mar 3, 11:07 pm, Steve Barker<[email protected]> wrote:
>>>> I've got a small joiner i purchased for next to nothing at a sale. I'll
>>>> have to take a closer look, i don't know the brand or the diameter of
>>>> the cutter unit. It's about 4" wide i believe. I'm trying to figure
>>>> out how much motor i need, what rpm, and what belt ratio to use. I'll
>>>> probably never use it for more than red oak a max of 1" thick. Any
>>>> ideas with this limited input?
>>>>
>>>> thanks.
>>>> --
>>>> Steve Barker
>>>> remove the "not" from my address to email
>>>
>>> My wife picked up a 50's era 4" jointer years ago at a garage sale
>>> (Yes - I am a LUCKY MAN!). It was mounted on a home made wooden stand
>>> with a 3/4 horse electric mother of unknown origin. The motor was
>>> fine for that machine because the bed was too narrow to put much
>>> strain on it even when surface planing. That little jointer was a
>>> good example of the tools that Sears/Craftsman provided in the early
>>> years. Solid, well made and heavy.
>>>
>>> BTW - I think jointer and Joiner are both OK and used interchangeably
>>> in some WW magazines.
>>>
>>> RonB
>>
>> I've not EVER heard the machine called a joiner. It is a jointer. I have
>> heard of a bisquit joiner, not the same machine - very different
>> application.
>>
>
> Stick around a while, and you will have heard joiner and jointer used
> interchangeably. While as you pointed out jointer and joiner are two
> different things, then and than are very often used in place of each
> other and most are not thrown off track by the miss use of those two words.
>
> Now if you really want to get picky, keep an eye on my posts, where
> every fifth word is misspelled, and try to figure out what I am saying. ;~)
FESTOOL ... FESTOOL 8>)
On Mar 4, 12:18=A0am, Steve Barker <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 3/3/2012 11:07 PM, Steve Barker wrote:
>
> > I've got a small joiner i purchased for next to nothing at a sale. I'll
> > have to take a closer look, i don't know the brand or the diameter of
> > the cutter unit. It's about 4" wide i believe. I'm trying to figure out
> > how much motor i need, what rpm, and what belt ratio to use. I'll
> > probably never use it for more than red oak a max of 1" thick. Any idea=
s
> > with this limited input?
>
> > thanks.
>
> ok, i guess the word is JOINTER when in this particular application.
>
> --
> Steve Barker
> remove the "not" from my address to email
We knew what you meant. If your jointer allows you to take 0.125" off
a 4" wide piece of oak, you'll want 3/4 HP. 2 Pole (3600RPM) or 4 pole
(1800 RPM) doesn't matter, just change the pulley ratio. Ball bearing
motors are nicer than bushings but they're more money. US or Canada
made motors are usually better quality than off-shore ones. Again,
more money. You DO want an enclosed fan. Baldor makes nice motors.
On Mar 5, 8:52=A0pm, Steve Barker <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> or jointing. =A0LOL!
>
> --
> Steve Barker
> remove the "not" from my address to email
All right, all right, all right, etc.
RonB :O)
On 3/5/2012 7:48 AM, Dave wrote:
> On Mon, 05 Mar 2012 06:52:28 -0600, Leon<lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>> Now if you really want to get picky, keep an eye on my posts, where
>> every fifth word is misspelled, and try to figure out what I am saying.
>
> What's that you've said? Taking your miserable spelling into account,
> I'm guessing that you're saying there's free food and beer at your
> place all week and everybody should show up at your home anytime day
> or night?
>
> It also sounded like an invite to Swingman's place too, but I think he
> might be a mean SOB, so anybody going there would take their chances.
That is exactly what I sayed! LOL
On 3/5/2012 9:10 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> On 3/4/2012 1:07 AM, Robatoy wrote:
>> If your jointer allows you to take 0.125" off
>> a 4" wide piece of oak
>
> My Dad had a jointer. It's probably still in his garage, under a few
> things. He'd run more or less all his edges through it after sawing
> them, taking off a very thin layer in a pass. We also used one in shop
> class, again for edges. All of this was when the world was young, of
> course, and my experience was limited even then. But the bit above
> confuses me.
>
> My question is this: Is an eighth-inch really a common (or safe) amount
> to take off in one pass through a jointer? Especially across the face of
> a 4" board? And why would you do this? How rough would the wood need to
> be to require the removal of that much material? Or would thinning the
> wood out be the goal?
>
> The usual caveats apply , which can be summed up under the general
> heading of "my woodworking ignorance".
ignoring the 1/8" part, running the face of the board across the jointer
is the first step to be performed before using a surface planer.
--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email
On 3/5/2012 9:44 AM, RonB wrote:
> On Mar 4, 5:26 pm, DanG<[email protected]> wrote:
>> On 3/4/2012 9:34 AM, RonB wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>> On Mar 3, 11:07 pm, Steve Barker<[email protected]> wrote:
>>>> I've got a small joiner i purchased for next to nothing at a sale. I'll
>>>> have to take a closer look, i don't know the brand or the diameter of
>>>> the cutter unit. It's about 4" wide i believe. I'm trying to figure
>>>> out how much motor i need, what rpm, and what belt ratio to use. I'll
>>>> probably never use it for more than red oak a max of 1" thick. Any
>>>> ideas with this limited input?
>>
>>>> thanks.
>>>> --
>>>> Steve Barker
>>>> remove the "not" from my address to email
>>
>>> My wife picked up a 50's era 4" jointer years ago at a garage sale
>>> (Yes - I am a LUCKY MAN!). It was mounted on a home made wooden stand
>>> with a 3/4 horse electric mother of unknown origin. The motor was
>>> fine for that machine because the bed was too narrow to put much
>>> strain on it even when surface planing. That little jointer was a
>>> good example of the tools that Sears/Craftsman provided in the early
>>> years. Solid, well made and heavy.
>>
>>> BTW - I think jointer and Joiner are both OK and used interchangeably
>>> in some WW magazines.
>>
>>> RonB
>>
>> I've not EVER heard the machine called a joiner. It is a jointer. I
>> have heard of a bisquit joiner, not the same machine - very different
>> application.
>>
>> --
>>
>> ___________________________________
>>
>> Keep the whole world singing . . .
>> Dan G
>> remove the seven
>
> Yeah, I know. A joiner is a machine used to cut slots or holes for
> biscuits or similar "JOINING" devices. However, I have heard and seen
> the word joiner and jointer used interchangeably for about 35 years
> and it never bothered me as much is it seem to bother you. The
> primary purpose of the machine is to prepare edges of lumber for
> joining.
>
> RonB
or jointing. LOL!
--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email
On Sat, 03 Mar 2012 23:07:49 -0600, Steve Barker
>the cutter unit. It's about 4" wide i believe. I'm trying to figure
>out how much motor i need, what rpm, and what belt ratio to use. I'll
>probably never use it for more than red oak a max of 1" thick. Any
>ideas with this limited input?
Are you saying the motor on it needs to be replaced or there's no
motor on it at all? If there is a motor, you can probably get it
rebuilt. If no motor initially, then I'd suggest having a look at some
comparable new models of jointer and buying a similar or slightly
heavier duty motor that's on the new ones.
On 3/4/2012 9:34 AM, RonB wrote:
> On Mar 3, 11:07 pm, Steve Barker<[email protected]> wrote:
>> I've got a small joiner i purchased for next to nothing at a sale. I'll
>> have to take a closer look, i don't know the brand or the diameter of
>> the cutter unit. It's about 4" wide i believe. I'm trying to figure
>> out how much motor i need, what rpm, and what belt ratio to use. I'll
>> probably never use it for more than red oak a max of 1" thick. Any
>> ideas with this limited input?
>>
>> thanks.
>> --
>> Steve Barker
>> remove the "not" from my address to email
>
> My wife picked up a 50's era 4" jointer years ago at a garage sale
> (Yes - I am a LUCKY MAN!). It was mounted on a home made wooden stand
> with a 3/4 horse electric mother of unknown origin. The motor was
> fine for that machine because the bed was too narrow to put much
> strain on it even when surface planing. That little jointer was a
> good example of the tools that Sears/Craftsman provided in the early
> years. Solid, well made and heavy.
>
> BTW - I think jointer and Joiner are both OK and used interchangeably
> in some WW magazines.
>
> RonB
I've not EVER heard the machine called a joiner. It is a jointer. I
have heard of a bisquit joiner, not the same machine - very different
application.
--
___________________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . .
Dan G
remove the seven
On 3/4/2012 1:07 AM, Robatoy wrote:
> If your jointer allows you to take 0.125" off
> a 4" wide piece of oak
My Dad had a jointer. It's probably still in his garage, under a few
things. He'd run more or less all his edges through it after sawing
them, taking off a very thin layer in a pass. We also used one in shop
class, again for edges. All of this was when the world was young, of
course, and my experience was limited even then. But the bit above
confuses me.
My question is this: Is an eighth-inch really a common (or safe) amount
to take off in one pass through a jointer? Especially across the face of
a 4" board? And why would you do this? How rough would the wood need to
be to require the removal of that much material? Or would thinning the
wood out be the goal?
The usual caveats apply , which can be summed up under the general
heading of "my woodworking ignorance".
Steve Barker wrote:
> I've got a small joiner i purchased for next to nothing at a sale. I'll
> have to take a closer look, i don't know the brand or the diameter of
> the cutter unit. It's about 4" wide i believe. I'm trying to figure
> out how much motor i need, what rpm, and what belt ratio to use. I'll
> probably never use it for more than red oak a max of 1" thick. Any
> ideas with this limited input?
>
> thanks.
WHEN you go motor shopping, always check here first.
http://www.surpluscenter.com/
Unless you have money to burn, that is. :-)
Deb
On 3/5/2012 6:56 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
> Leon<lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
> *snip*
>
>>
>> Now if you really want to get picky, keep an eye on my posts, where
>> every fifth word is misspelled, and try to figure out what I am
>> saying.
>> ;~)
>>
>
> And if you take a fifth of all the letters required to correct the spelling
> errors, and jumble them around 5 times and take a fifth of the words they
> spell, you'll get a cryptic message that not even Leon understands. :-)
>
> Puckdropper
Actually, Smarty Pants, I often can't understand what I just said, never
the extra effort. LOL.