I wonder if someone can help with my stand, and the base table stop.
The places that sell the replacement want crazy money for the parts,
so I need to fab. them.
If someone has this base, I need the dimensions of #257;cover,
#261;Stop ( looks like a metal strip,) and need to know or possibly if
someone has it can take some nice big, clear photos, of how this thing
is put together. There is part # 263;bumper, (there are 2 of them) and
part # 262 2 latch, (there are 2 of them also).
Need to know how the bumpers and the latch's, and the stop work.
Also need to know the dimensions of the "Stop" too.
Mine is missing, and I have no Idea how it is put together.
I am sure I can come up with something on my own, but I would like it
to look as close to factory as possible.
Also if someone could please measure the "Table Leveling Sleeve", I
need, Diameter, OAL, and depth of the bore,
I assume from reading the parts catalogs the 5/16 18 X 2" long
headless set screw is just as it states, and the Table Leveling Sleeve
just bottoms on the end of the headless set screw, and the headless
set screw uses a jam nut on the bottom of the casting.
Appreciate any help you can give me,
I am posting links to the drawing, and a photo of the stand, (Thanks
to OP)
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc268/mrbreezeet1/Upload%20and%20forget/BS4cover.jpg
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc268/mrbreezeet1/Upload%20and%20forget/Stand.jpg
Thanks,
Tony
On Mar 4, 6:16=A0pm, DanG <[email protected]> wrote:
> Tony, if you have the base and it is missing the door in question, I
> would simply get a piece of 20 gauge sheet metal 2" larger than the
> hole. =A0Install with four sheetmetal screws, one in each corner. =A0Fanc=
ier
> would be to cut out the two bottom corners so that the resulting flange
> goes into the bottom of the cabinet hole, and you only have 2 screws
> holding the top corners. =A0Paint, etc optional. =A0The only time(s) you
> will ever get in that hole would be to change the belt or the motor and
> even then it is probably easier to work up through the bottom. =A0The
> spring latch and maroon knob are just not necessary. =A0If you really wan=
t
> the dimensions, write back and I will measure mine.
>
> I'm not sure what you are calling a table stop. =A0There is a knob on the
> front and one on the back that you loosen to allow tipping the table.
> Loosen those. =A0Tip the table. =A0At the back left hand side there is a
> threaded hole in the casting. =A0I think mine has a carriage bolt with a
> jam nut threaded into that hole. =A0 I assume you have had the saw runnin=
g
> with the blade tracking, etc. =A0 When the top comes down, adjust it for
> square to the blade - the top of the carriage bolt hits the bottom of
> the top. =A0Once you have the saw top square to the blade, tighten the ja=
m
> nut.
> --
>
> ___________________________________
>
> Keep the whole world singing . . .
> Dan G
> remove the seven
Thanks Dan, Yeah, trying to get it to look correct , as came from the
factory. Would Appreciate the measurements. I have the red knob for
the belt guard door , I have to find one for the bottom door I am
making.
Yeah, Guess I could use a 5/15 18 carriage bolt, I did think of that,
but Delta uses a headless stud, or set screw, 2" long, or you could
run the bolt up from the bottom, then a 1/2" dia X 1.175 long sleeve
sets over the stud. That way if you want to tilt the table to the
left, you pull the 1.175 long sleeve off. A jam nut locks the stud at
the bottom of the casting.
The sleeve looks like this,
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc268/mrbreezeet1/Upload%20and%20forget/=
TableLevelingSleeve01.jpg
[email protected] wrote:
> I don't understand this, I just made a post and don't see it, it said
> it was successful?
> http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc268/mrbreezeet1/Upload%20and%20forget/TableLevelingSleeve01.jpg
Don't know which post you are referring to since you do not specify it, but
your link works. Takes me to a web site with your picture. I'm seeing you
from a Usenet newsgroup where binaries are discouraged - text only group.
Perhaps a crost post and that's why you go your message? If you are
attempting to crost post and want to post binaries, then use the binaries
newsgroup for rec.woodworking.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
> > I wonder if someone can help with my stand, and the base table stop.
> > The places that sell the replacement want crazy money for the parts,
> > so I need to fab. them.
>
> >
> >http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc268/mrbreezeet1/Upload%20and%20f...
> >http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc268/mrbreezeet1/Upload%20and%20f...
>
> > Thanks,
> > Tony
>
> Tony, here are the measurements on mine. =A0I still think you're making a
> mountain of a mole hill.
<<<<<<<<<<<<SNIP<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
Thanks Dan, That will help, I made a table leveling sleeve too, The
dimensions I found were,
OAL 1.890, Diameter is .500, bore is .312 X .800 deep.
On 3/4/2012 1:12 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> I wonder if someone can help with my stand, and the base table stop.
> The places that sell the replacement want crazy money for the parts,
> so I need to fab. them.
>
> If someone has this base, I need the dimensions of #257;cover,
> #261;Stop ( looks like a metal strip,) and need to know or possibly if
> someone has it can take some nice big, clear photos, of how this thing
> is put together. There is part # 263;bumper, (there are 2 of them) and
> part # 262 2 latch, (there are 2 of them also).
> Need to know how the bumpers and the latch's, and the stop work.
> Also need to know the dimensions of the "Stop" too.
> Mine is missing, and I have no Idea how it is put together.
> I am sure I can come up with something on my own, but I would like it
> to look as close to factory as possible.
>
> Also if someone could please measure the "Table Leveling Sleeve", I
> need, Diameter, OAL, and depth of the bore,
> I assume from reading the parts catalogs the 5/16 18 X 2" long
> headless set screw is just as it states, and the Table Leveling Sleeve
> just bottoms on the end of the headless set screw, and the headless
> set screw uses a jam nut on the bottom of the casting.
> Appreciate any help you can give me,
> I am posting links to the drawing, and a photo of the stand, (Thanks
> to OP)
> http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc268/mrbreezeet1/Upload%20and%20forget/BS4cover.jpg
> http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc268/mrbreezeet1/Upload%20and%20forget/Stand.jpg
>
> Thanks,
> Tony
Tony, if you have the base and it is missing the door in question, I
would simply get a piece of 20 gauge sheet metal 2" larger than the
hole. Install with four sheetmetal screws, one in each corner. Fancier
would be to cut out the two bottom corners so that the resulting flange
goes into the bottom of the cabinet hole, and you only have 2 screws
holding the top corners. Paint, etc optional. The only time(s) you
will ever get in that hole would be to change the belt or the motor and
even then it is probably easier to work up through the bottom. The
spring latch and maroon knob are just not necessary. If you really want
the dimensions, write back and I will measure mine.
I'm not sure what you are calling a table stop. There is a knob on the
front and one on the back that you loosen to allow tipping the table.
Loosen those. Tip the table. At the back left hand side there is a
threaded hole in the casting. I think mine has a carriage bolt with a
jam nut threaded into that hole. I assume you have had the saw running
with the blade tracking, etc. When the top comes down, adjust it for
square to the blade - the top of the carriage bolt hits the bottom of
the top. Once you have the saw top square to the blade, tighten the jam
nut.
--
___________________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . .
Dan G
remove the seven
On 3/4/2012 1:12 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> I wonder if someone can help with my stand, and the base table stop.
> The places that sell the replacement want crazy money for the parts,
> so I need to fab. them.
>
> If someone has this base, I need the dimensions of #257;cover,
> #261;Stop ( looks like a metal strip,) and need to know or possibly if
> someone has it can take some nice big, clear photos, of how this thing
> is put together. There is part # 263;bumper, (there are 2 of them) and
> part # 262 2 latch, (there are 2 of them also).
> Need to know how the bumpers and the latch's, and the stop work.
> Also need to know the dimensions of the "Stop" too.
> Mine is missing, and I have no Idea how it is put together.
> I am sure I can come up with something on my own, but I would like it
> to look as close to factory as possible.
>
> Also if someone could please measure the "Table Leveling Sleeve", I
> need, Diameter, OAL, and depth of the bore,
> I assume from reading the parts catalogs the 5/16 18 X 2" long
> headless set screw is just as it states, and the Table Leveling Sleeve
> just bottoms on the end of the headless set screw, and the headless
> set screw uses a jam nut on the bottom of the casting.
> Appreciate any help you can give me,
> I am posting links to the drawing, and a photo of the stand, (Thanks
> to OP)
> http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc268/mrbreezeet1/Upload%20and%20forget/BS4cover.jpg
> http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc268/mrbreezeet1/Upload%20and%20forget/Stand.jpg
>
> Thanks,
> Tony
Tony, here are the measurements on mine. I still think you're making a
mountain of a mole hill. I had not ever seen the removable top stop
before, so fabricated one for mine as there have been times I would have
liked to be able to tilt in rather than out, though I've always made do.
Thanks for that detail.
Look at your "Stand.jpg"
The hole in my case is 11" tall x 11 11/16 wide.
The door is 12 1/4" x 12 1/4" The door is .06 thick which is 16 gauge.
The corners are rounded.
Part 261 is 11 1/2" x 1" x 1/8" thick.
Part 262 (2) is a spring metal clip shaped a bit like a W that holds
the and is held by 260. These clips are what keeps the bottom of the
door in/on the case. 262 rests on the bottom of the hole.
259 is a shaped tip with a shoulder against the back of the door with
1/4-20 threads on the end to hold the knob.
The door sits completely on the outer surface of the cabinet. The
spring clips at bottom and the spring "ears" riveted in the upper hole
do seem to keep the tin plate from rattling. There are two rubber?
bumpers on the case at the upper corners probably 263 (2)
--
___________________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . .
Dan G
remove the seven