I inherited some old mostly craftsman workshop equipment, all about 55 yrs
old and unused for the past 10-15. I plan on starting cleaning them up this
long weekend and would like some input on the best methods. besides blowing
out dust, etc, the main thing i have to do is remove rust:
work and fence surfaces have a fine covering of rust, no pitting. appears
pretty minor but covers the entire area - whats the best polishing or rust
removal solution and method to use?
jointer blades feel sharp, but the rotor base and the blades are rusty. is
there any real reason to clean them as long as they perform well?
stands and casing is all metal, cast iron i assume. there are areas of rust
on these surfaces as well, but not as widespread. if i spot treat the rust
i will need to repaint - is there a prefered type and brand of paint best
suited for this?
a poster in a previous post about motors suggested looking for oil ports on
the motor shafts, i will be looking at these as well.
thanks in advance.
Put a post over on Old Wood Working Machines forum www.owwm.com That's
were the experts on this subject lurk.
On Sep 4, 6:54=A0am, [email protected] wrote:
> I inherited some old mostly craftsman workshop equipment, all about 55 yr=
s
> old and unused for the past 10-15. =A0I plan on starting cleaning them up=
this
> long weekend and would like some input on the best methods. =A0besides bl=
owing
> out dust, etc, the main thing i have to do is remove rust:
>
> work and fence surfaces have a fine covering of rust, no pitting. =A0appe=
ars
> pretty minor but covers the entire area - whats the best polishing or rus=
t
> removal solution and method to use?
> jointer blades feel sharp, but the rotor base and the blades are rusty. =
=A0is
> there any real reason to clean them as long as they perform well?
>
> stands and casing is all metal, cast iron i assume. =A0there are areas of=
rust
> on these surfaces as well, but not as widespread. =A0if i spot treat the =
rust
> i will need to repaint - is there a prefered type and brand of paint best
> suited for this?
>
> a poster in a previous post about motors suggested looking for oil ports =
on
> the motor shafts, i will be looking at these as well.
>
> thanks in advance.
On Sep 4, 8:54=A0am, [email protected] wrote:
> out dust, etc, the main thing i have to do is remove rust:
I've used T-9 Rust Free, sold by Woodcraft on cast iron and steel
surfaces with a scotch brite pad. It gets rid of it in a hurry. I
tried Wd-40 and it was way too much work.
Bob
On Sep 4, 9:54=A0am, [email protected] wrote:
> I inherited some old mostly craftsman workshop equipment, all about 55 yr=
s
> old and unused for the past 10-15. =A0I plan on starting cleaning them up=
this
> long weekend and would like some input on the best methods. =A0besides bl=
owing
> out dust, etc, the main thing i have to do is remove rust:
>
> work and fence surfaces have a fine covering of rust, no pitting. =A0appe=
ars
> pretty minor but covers the entire area - whats the best polishing or rus=
t
> removal solution and method to use?
> jointer blades feel sharp, but the rotor base and the blades are rusty. =
=A0is
> there any real reason to clean them as long as they perform well?
>
> stands and casing is all metal, cast iron i assume. =A0there are areas of=
rust
> on these surfaces as well, but not as widespread. =A0if i spot treat the =
rust
> i will need to repaint - is there a prefered type and brand of paint best
> suited for this?
>
> a poster in a previous post about motors suggested looking for oil ports =
on
> the motor shafts, i will be looking at these as well.
>
> thanks in advance.
I've had good results with WD40 and a Scotch-Brite pad to remove rust
from cast iron. Wipes up easily when you are done but wear old
clothes because the slurry stains are impossible to get out.
I would clean the rust on all bare metal to keep things from getting
worse.
As far as the painted areas that need work I've heard rustoleum is the
best but have not tried anything else.
Have fun!
On Mon, 07 Sep 2009 01:16:01 +0000, nospamanobama wrote:
> i have never serviced an electric motor, is this worth paying a shop to
> do?
Depends on its age. The older the better :-). I've got a 1940s vintage
1hp motor that weights a ton. That thing has torque you wouldn't
believe. I've been warned to never, never get rid of it.
--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw
On Fri, 04 Sep 2009 15:04:39 -0400, Keith Nuttle wrote:
> I have a piece of plywood that fits the top of the saw that is always on
> the saw when ever it is not in use. This seems to prevent rus
I'd be leery of that. Depending on local humidity, moisture could get
trapped under the plywood and make the situation worse instead of better.
--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw
On Sat, 05 Sep 2009 05:20:21 -0700, DLB wrote:
>> After I get the rust off I use auto polishing compound and then a good
>> grade of car wax on the table.
>>
>>
>
> I thought car wax near woodworking was baaaaadddddd. Silicone in the
> car type waxes interferes with finishing products.
Since most folks are either sanding or planing after cutting, the dangers
of silicone on saw tops is greatly exaggerated.
--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw
-MIKE- wrote:
> Daryl wrote:
>> For the fence and surface (assuming they are cast iron) steel wool and
>> FWD-40 does a great job. Clean and then Johnson's paste wax every 6-9
>> months. I've only repainted one tool and used Sherwin Williams epoxy.
>> Looks great and has held up fine (5+ years). I have a Delta
>> (Rockwell) scroll saw and belt sander from that era. No lube ports on
>> the sander, saw has an oil reservoir right under the table.
>
>
> Wood magazine did a test between several different methods/products for
> rust removal and prevention.
> http://www.boeshield.com/rust_prevention/stoprust.pdf
>
> You may find that some of the newer products will save you some time and
> energy, as WD-40 and Johnson's both did the worst at their respective
> tasks.
>
>
I tend not to believe everything I read, especially when it doesn't jive
with my own experience. If I did, FWW would have convinced me a year
ago that I needed a 20 ton press to do a panel glue up. Been doing this
since '94 when I got my table saw. Johnson's takes maybe two minutes
to apply, wait 10 then 2 more to buff off and that only twice a year.
The top looks as good today as when I bought it. Now doing the same
with all the tools. Not sure what could be easier than that but I
should probably stick with this. I could use the excersize.
Just my $0.02
Daryl
[email protected] wrote:
> I inherited some old mostly craftsman workshop equipment, all about 55 yrs
> old and unused for the past 10-15. I plan on starting cleaning them up this
> long weekend and would like some input on the best methods. besides blowing
> out dust, etc, the main thing i have to do is remove rust:
>
> work and fence surfaces have a fine covering of rust, no pitting. appears
> pretty minor but covers the entire area - whats the best polishing or rust
> removal solution and method to use?
> jointer blades feel sharp, but the rotor base and the blades are rusty. is
> there any real reason to clean them as long as they perform well?
>
> stands and casing is all metal, cast iron i assume. there are areas of rust
> on these surfaces as well, but not as widespread. if i spot treat the rust
> i will need to repaint - is there a prefered type and brand of paint best
> suited for this?
>
> a poster in a previous post about motors suggested looking for oil ports on
> the motor shafts, i will be looking at these as well.
>
> thanks in advance.
For the fence and surface (assuming they are cast iron) steel wool and
FWD-40 does a great job. Clean and then Johnson's paste wax every 6-9
months. I've only repainted one tool and used Sherwin Williams epoxy.
Looks great and has held up fine (5+ years). I have a Delta (Rockwell)
scroll saw and belt sander from that era. No lube ports on the sander,
saw has an oil reservoir right under the table.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>i have never serviced an electric motor, is this worth paying a shop
>to do?
Probably less expensive to buy a new one if it is a fractional HP.
Lew
On Sep 4, 10:02 am, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> On of the magazines did a test of the rust removal/prevention products.http://www.boeshield.com/rust_prevention/stoprust.pdf
>
> The best product for removal was actually Empire Top Saver.
>
> It's the only one that rated "excellent" for removal. Funny that
> Boeshield would have the test on their site, showing how their products
> came in second after a competitor.
>
Gotta hand it to Boeshield for the impartial endorsement... Tom
If your beloved sews - have them make covers - like pillow sacks that
fit over - not tight - just to keep dust and moisture off.
It is amazing how well as a shop cloth keeps rust off. Not plastic -
let it breath and wick as needed.
A lot of shops have dew drops at sunrise or such. Cold moist nights and
then the temp rises and moisture dews out.
And the saw blades are just fine as is.
Martin
[email protected] wrote:
> I inherited some old mostly craftsman workshop equipment, all about 55 yrs
> old and unused for the past 10-15. I plan on starting cleaning them up this
> long weekend and would like some input on the best methods. besides blowing
> out dust, etc, the main thing i have to do is remove rust:
>
> work and fence surfaces have a fine covering of rust, no pitting. appears
> pretty minor but covers the entire area - whats the best polishing or rust
> removal solution and method to use?
> jointer blades feel sharp, but the rotor base and the blades are rusty. is
> there any real reason to clean them as long as they perform well?
>
> stands and casing is all metal, cast iron i assume. there are areas of rust
> on these surfaces as well, but not as widespread. if i spot treat the rust
> i will need to repaint - is there a prefered type and brand of paint best
> suited for this?
>
> a poster in a previous post about motors suggested looking for oil ports on
> the motor shafts, i will be looking at these as well.
>
> thanks in advance.
On Sat, 05 Sep 2009 11:26:40 -0500, Larry Blanchard
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Fri, 04 Sep 2009 15:04:39 -0400, Keith Nuttle wrote:
>
>> I have a piece of plywood that fits the top of the saw that is always on
>> the saw when ever it is not in use. This seems to prevent rus
>
>I'd be leery of that. Depending on local humidity, moisture could get
>trapped under the plywood and make the situation worse instead of better.
I use a beach towel (gotta get SWMBO to make a slot for the spreader).
The thought being that it would protect the surface from any
condensation but still let air at the surface.
>> out dust, etc, the main thing i have to do is remove rust:
>
> I've used T-9 Rust Free, sold by Woodcraft on cast iron and steel
> surfaces with a scotch brite pad. It gets rid of it in a hurry. I
> tried Wd-40 and it was way too much work.
>
> Bob
>
On of the magazines did a test of the rust removal/prevention products.
http://www.boeshield.com/rust_prevention/stoprust.pdf
The best product for removal was actually Empire Top Saver.
It's the only one that rated "excellent" for removal. Funny that
Boeshield would have the test on their site, showing how their products
came in second after a competitor.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
[email protected] wrote:
> I inherited some old mostly craftsman workshop equipment, all about 55 yrs
> old and unused for the past 10-15. I plan on starting cleaning them up this
> long weekend and would like some input on the best methods. besides blowing
> out dust, etc, the main thing i have to do is remove rust:
>
> work and fence surfaces have a fine covering of rust, no pitting. appears
> pretty minor but covers the entire area - whats the best polishing or rust
> removal solution and method to use?
> jointer blades feel sharp, but the rotor base and the blades are rusty. is
> there any real reason to clean them as long as they perform well?
>
> stands and casing is all metal, cast iron i assume. there are areas of rust
> on these surfaces as well, but not as widespread. if i spot treat the rust
> i will need to repaint - is there a prefered type and brand of paint best
> suited for this?
>
> a poster in a previous post about motors suggested looking for oil ports on
> the motor shafts, i will be looking at these as well.
>
> thanks in advance.
I don't know if this is the acceptable method, but my Craftsman table
saw is 40 years old. Over the years when it has not been used for a
while it picks up a little rust. To remove the rust I have used either
steel wool or extremely fine sand paper. You don't want to sand enough
to cup the surface.
After I get the rust off I use auto polishing compound and then a good
grade of car wax on the table.
If you have rust on the table of the saw, you may not get it completely
off the first time, just get the table so that it is smooth enough so as
not to catch the wood when you cut wood. The more sawdust you make the
shinier the surface becomes. Sawdust makes a great polishing compound.
I have a piece of plywood that fits the top of the saw that is always on
the saw when ever it is not in use. This seems to prevent rust.
Daryl wrote:
> For the fence and surface (assuming they are cast iron) steel wool and
> FWD-40 does a great job. Clean and then Johnson's paste wax every 6-9
> months. I've only repainted one tool and used Sherwin Williams epoxy.
> Looks great and has held up fine (5+ years). I have a Delta (Rockwell)
> scroll saw and belt sander from that era. No lube ports on the sander,
> saw has an oil reservoir right under the table.
Wood magazine did a test between several different methods/products for
rust removal and prevention.
http://www.boeshield.com/rust_prevention/stoprust.pdf
You may find that some of the newer products will save you some time and
energy, as WD-40 and Johnson's both did the worst at their respective tasks.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
DLB wrote:
>> After I get the rust off I use auto polishing compound and then a good
>> grade of car wax on the table.
>>
>
>
> I thought car wax near woodworking was baaaaadddddd. Silicone in the
> car type waxes interferes with finishing products.
>
I don't apply the wax on a regular basis, about once or twice per year.
So there is no significant build up of wax. I have not had a problem
with the wax interfering with the finishes. I have tried to keep wax in
the pores in the surface but not on the surface.
HOWEVER, my principal wood working projects are picture frames where I
alway keep the shinny side up, for the sake of the mitered corners.
Larry wrote:
> > I have a piece of plywood that fits the top of the saw that is
always on
> > the saw when ever it is not in use. This seems to prevent rust
>I'd be leery of that. Depending on local humidity, moisture could get
>trapped under the plywood and make the situation worse instead of >better.
I have been doing this for years, and always assumed it worked since it
keeps the humid air from coming in contact with the cool surface of the
table, therefore preventing condensation and any moisture build up.
HOWEVER: My shop is in an unheated attached garage where the furnace
for the house is located.
Daryl wrote:
> -MIKE- wrote:
>> Daryl wrote:
>>> For the fence and surface (assuming they are cast iron) steel wool
>>> and FWD-40 does a great job. Clean and then Johnson's paste wax
>>> every 6-9 months. I've only repainted one tool and used Sherwin
>>> Williams epoxy. Looks great and has held up fine (5+ years). I have
>>> a Delta (Rockwell) scroll saw and belt sander from that era. No lube
>>> ports on the sander, saw has an oil reservoir right under the table.
>>
>>
>> Wood magazine did a test between several different methods/products
>> for rust removal and prevention.
>> http://www.boeshield.com/rust_prevention/stoprust.pdf
>>
>> You may find that some of the newer products will save you some time and
>> energy, as WD-40 and Johnson's both did the worst at their respective
>> tasks.
>>
>>
> I tend not to believe everything I read, especially when it doesn't jive
> with my own experience. If I did, FWW would have convinced me a year
> ago that I needed a 20 ton press to do a panel glue up. Been doing this
> since '94 when I got my table saw. Johnson's takes maybe two minutes
> to apply, wait 10 then 2 more to buff off and that only twice a year.
> The top looks as good today as when I bought it. Now doing the same
> with all the tools. Not sure what could be easier than that but I
> should probably stick with this. I could use the excersize.
>
> Just my $0.02
>
> Daryl
I certainly wasn't telling you how to part your own hair, just sharing
info, which is the purpose of this group... I hope. :-)
For your intents and purposes, you probably don't need the best in both
categories. If you look at the pictures in the article, you'll see they
are letting those surfaces get very rusty... simulating what looks to be
"a couple years in the shed" worth of rust.
If I ever have to take off that kind of rust, I'll go with what they
recommend and not repeat the learnin' they already learnt. :-)
As for prevention... someone in here recommended this...
http://www.super-lube.com/drifilm-aerosol-ez-69.htm
...and I've been using it with great results so far.
Plus, it's a multi-tasker and I hate uni-taskers.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
[email protected] wrote:
> i have never serviced an electric motor, is this worth paying a shop to do?
Yes! It is an easy task to carefully take a motor apart and clean the
sawdust and wood chips from the area of the electrical connections. In
some motors this can be done by remove a cover.
If you do take it to a shop, comparison shop. I found the small
independent shops were more reasonable and less strict in their pricing
structure.
At one point I thought my table saw motor had died, but when I took it
to a small independent shop the guy basically blew it out and charged me
a couple of dollars to take it apart and clean it. (Wood chips had
gotten into the electrical contacts and would not allow them to close.)
>>> Wood magazine did a test between several different methods/products
>>> for rust removal and prevention.
>>> http://www.boeshield.com/rust_prevention/stoprust.pdf
>>>
>>> You may find that some of the newer products will save you some time and
>>> energy, as WD-40 and Johnson's both did the worst at their respective
>>> tasks.
>>>
>>>
>> I tend not to believe everything I read, especially when it doesn't
>> jive with my own experience. If I did, FWW would have convinced me a
>> year ago that I needed a 20 ton press to do a panel glue up. Been
>> doing this since '94 when I got my table saw. Johnson's takes maybe
>> two minutes to apply, wait 10 then 2 more to buff off and that only
>> twice a year. The top looks as good today as when I bought it. Now
>> doing the same with all the tools. Not sure what could be easier than
>> that but I should probably stick with this. I could use the excersize.
>>
>> Just my $0.02
>>
>> Daryl
>
> I certainly wasn't telling you how to part your own hair, just sharing
> info, which is the purpose of this group... I hope. :-)
>
> For your intents and purposes, you probably don't need the best in both
> categories. If you look at the pictures in the article, you'll see they
> are letting those surfaces get very rusty... simulating what looks to be
> "a couple years in the shed" worth of rust.
>
> If I ever have to take off that kind of rust, I'll go with what they
> recommend and not repeat the learnin' they already learnt. :-)
>
> As for prevention... someone in here recommended this...
> http://www.super-lube.com/drifilm-aerosol-ez-69.htm
> ...and I've been using it with great results so far.
> Plus, it's a multi-tasker and I hate uni-taskers.
>
Just so you know, I did a comparison of my own, last night, between
WD-40 and Boeshield Rust Free rust remover.
There is simply no comparison. I was pretty amazed at the Boeshield. I
had some spots of surface rust to remove. WD-40 kind of sits on top of
it and doesn't really do much but act as a lube and solvent while you
scrub. I don't see it doing much beyond acting as a solvent to help the
rust soak up into a towel.
I sprayed the Boeshield on and the rust sort of vanished and turned a
different color. It lifted off the surface before I could even reach for
the scrubbing pad.
I'm going to do some removal on another tool that has a considerable
about of rust on it. I'll report on that later.
Again, I'm not trying to be confrontational. But if you ever need to
remove a considerable amount of rust, this Boeshield stuff is worth it.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
[email protected] wrote:
> a poster in a previous post about motors suggested looking for oil ports on
> the motor shafts, i will be looking at these as well.
>
and zerk (grease) fittings..
In article
<[email protected]>,
Limp Arbor <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Sep 4, 9:54 am, [email protected] wrote:
> > I inherited some old mostly craftsman workshop equipment, all about 55 yrs
> > old and unused for the past 10-15. I plan on starting cleaning them up this
> > long weekend and would like some input on the best methods. besides blowing
> > out dust, etc, the main thing i have to do is remove rust:
> >
> > work and fence surfaces have a fine covering of rust, no pitting. appears
> > pretty minor but covers the entire area - whats the best polishing or rust
> > removal solution and method to use?
> > jointer blades feel sharp, but the rotor base and the blades are rusty. is
> > there any real reason to clean them as long as they perform well?
> >
> > standsnd casing is all metal, cast iron i assume. there are areas of rust
> > on these surfaces as well, but not as widespread. if i spot treat the rust
> > i will need to repaint - is there a prefered type and brand of paint best
> > suited for this?
> >
> > a poster in a previous post about motors suggested looking for oil ports on
> > the motor shafts, i will be looking at these as well.
> >
> > thanks in advance.
>
> I've had good results with WD40 and a Scotch-Brite pad to remove rust
> from cast iron. Wipes up easily when you are done but wear old
> clothes because the slurry stains are impossible to get out.
>
> I would clean the rust on all bare metal to keep things from getting
> worse.
>
> As far as the painted areas that need work I've heard rustoleum is the
> best but have not tried anything else.
>
> Have fun!
Most everyone seems to be mostly concerned with the cosmetics. If the
equipment is 50 plus old and has not been used in 10 to 15 I would check
out the motors and arbor bearings. Just because they may turn over
doesn't mean they are properly lubricated. I have seen oil turn to glue
and freeze moving parts. Ideally the bearings should be taken out,
cleaned, and re-lubed. Sealed bearings in an ideal world should be
replaced.
Chuck P.
In article <[email protected]>,
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote:
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >i have never serviced an electric motor, is this worth paying a shop
> >to do?
>
> Probably less expensive to buy a new one if it is a fractional HP.
>
> Lew
Now is the time to learn! If you are going to buy a new motor, why not
try to refurbish the old one? You might learn something. If you have to
buy a new one there is nothing lost if you were going to buy a new one
in the first place.
Chuck P.