I'm looking for some good quality drill bits. I'm planning to get a
full 29 piece index of both brad point and twist bit style. As far as
brad point bits go, I'm probably going to go with Lee Valley HSS. For
the twist bits though I'm wondering if I should go with cobalt or
cobalt coated or tatanium nitride or whatever - I have no idea what
they mean or what they do. I just want a good set that will handle
unhardened steel in addition to wood. Any info for me? Thanks.
MEW
On Apr 8, 5:50=A0pm, Mark Whittingham <[email protected]> wrote:
> I'm looking for some good quality drill bits. =A0I'm planning to get a
> full 29 piece index of both brad point and twist bit style. =A0As far as
> brad point bits go, I'm probably going to go with Lee Valley HSS. =A0For
> the twist bits though I'm wondering if I should go with cobalt or
> cobalt coated or tatanium nitride or whatever - I have no idea what
> they mean or what they do. =A0I just want a good set that will handle
> unhardened steel in addition to wood. =A0Any info for me? =A0Thanks.
>
> MEW
I seldom drill in steel, so the suggestion I have deals with the
cabinet building/wood side of things. I really like, and almost always
use the tapered bits with an attached counter-sink. In my installation
toolbox I have a cheapo set of DeWalt bits which have the little pilot
tittie on the tip. Certainly not a set of 29.
I go nowhere without my trusty tapered bits.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=3D1&p=3D32309&cat=3D1,180,42240
HSS or cobalt steel are good steel drills - the fancy gold or reddish
coatings are that - just coatings that help lube the drill.
Tantalum nitride is a lube or wear resistance material only - says
NOTHING of the metal inside. Some of the nicest looking drills are
just junk.
M2, M42 are quality strength metals used as base metals.
Buyer beware - save money - look and research first!
Martin
Robatoy wrote:
> On Apr 8, 5:50 pm, Mark Whittingham <[email protected]> wrote:
>> I'm looking for some good quality drill bits. I'm planning to get a
>> full 29 piece index of both brad point and twist bit style. As far as
>> brad point bits go, I'm probably going to go with Lee Valley HSS. For
>> the twist bits though I'm wondering if I should go with cobalt or
>> cobalt coated or tatanium nitride or whatever - I have no idea what
>> they mean or what they do. I just want a good set that will handle
>> unhardened steel in addition to wood. Any info for me? Thanks.
>>
>> MEW
>
> I seldom drill in steel, so the suggestion I have deals with the
> cabinet building/wood side of things. I really like, and almost always
> use the tapered bits with an attached counter-sink. In my installation
> toolbox I have a cheapo set of DeWalt bits which have the little pilot
> tittie on the tip. Certainly not a set of 29.
> I go nowhere without my trusty tapered bits.
> http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=32309&cat=1,180,42240
"Mark Whittingham" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm looking for some good quality drill bits. I'm planning to get a
> full 29 piece index of both brad point and twist bit style. As far as
> brad point bits go, I'm probably going to go with Lee Valley HSS. For
> the twist bits though I'm wondering if I should go with cobalt or
> cobalt coated or tatanium nitride or whatever - I have no idea what
> they mean or what they do. I just want a good set that will handle
> unhardened steel in addition to wood. Any info for me? Thanks.
>
> MEW
>
HSS drill bits are better:
I have used common carbon steel and coated drill bits. Superior results
were obtained with genuine HSS. Many drill bits are labeled HSS but not all
are made with true
High Speed Steel. To convince yourself make a test drilling 1/2" and
greater dia holes in oak or maple using.
"Mark Whittingham" wrote:
> I'm looking for some good quality drill bits. I'm planning to get a
> full 29 piece index of both brad point and twist bit style. As far
> as
> brad point bits go, I'm probably going to go with Lee Valley HSS.
> For
> the twist bits though I'm wondering if I should go with cobalt or
> cobalt coated or tatanium nitride or whatever - I have no idea what
> they mean or what they do. I just want a good set that will handle
> unhardened steel in addition to wood. Any info for me? Thanks.
---------------------------------------
A good set of jobbers HHS twist drills for metal.
Grainger, McMaster-Carr, etc will have them.
Coated drills are strictly a gimmick IMHO.
Strictly a throw away.
As far as brad point drills are concerned, a 7 pc set of HSS, 1/2"
max, will do the job IMHO.
Larger sizes handled by carbide forstner bits.
Lew
In article
<[email protected]>,
Mark Whittingham <[email protected]> wrote:
> I just want a good set that will handle
> unhardened steel in addition to wood. Any info for me? Thanks.
"Ordinary" HSS is perfectly adequate for unhardened steel. Go to a decent
supplier that supplies to the metal working industry and always use
lubricant. Even a few drops of engine oil are better than nothing
In article
<cc762317-e83e-41af-aee2-28afcc21e3b3@z11g2000yqz.googlegroups.com>,
Neil Brooks <[email protected]> wrote:
> My understanding is that -- for the moment -- these are as good as it
> gets, will still do a nice, clean job with wood, and ... will handle
> those occasional, nagging titanium-drilling tasks that ... just come
> up.
Hmmm >-|
For metal I'd go look for Dormer, Intal, Presto, Osbourne.
In the US, probably Brown and Sharpe or similar
In article <[email protected]>,
Seismo R. Malm <[email protected]> wrote:
> I use these for metal:
> http://drillbitcity.com/catalogue/10_piece.asp?Pt=4&St=&Sc=
> These will handle hardened steel (knife tangs).
Carbide will drill most things but is not necessary for "ordinary steel"
and lacks "toughness" for general purpose use. It is easy to re-grind HSS
to a different geometry, say for thin sheet or brass, but Carbide is
somewhat trickier
On Apr 8, 6:50=A0pm, Chris Friesen <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 04/08/2010 04:40 PM, Robatoy wrote:
>
> > I go nowhere without my trusty tapered bits.
> >http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=3D1&p=3D32309&cat=3D1,180,4224=
0
>
> I looked at those, but I realized that they really only apply to tapered
> brass screws and you need to set the depth precisely to match the length
> of the screw.
>
> For assembly work I normally use rolled-thread screws where the shank is
> almost the same as the root diameter. =A0The tapered drills don't match
> these screws well at all.
>
> Chris
For that kind of assembly work, I use an 1/8" brad point in an air
drill and #8 low root screws... usually 2".
You don't need a tapered screw to use the tapered bits. In fact, the
further in a regular screw goes into a tapered pilot hole, the better
grab you get. You don't go all the way to the bottom of the hole.
On Apr 8, 7:12=A0pm, notbob <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 2010-04-08, Denis M <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
> > "Mark Whittingham" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >> the twist bits though I'm wondering if I should go with cobalt or
> >> cobalt coated or tatanium nitride or whatever - I have no idea what
> >> they mean or what they do. =A0I just want a good set that will handle
> >> unhardened steel in addition to wood. =A0Any info for me? =A0Thanks.
> > HSS drill bits are better:
>
> > I have used common carbon steel and coated drill bits. =A0Superior resu=
lts
> > were obtained with genuine HSS. =A0
> > Many drill bits are labeled HSS but not all are made with true
>
> Jes where does one find those?
>
> Anyway.... =A0I don't know spit about wood bits, but as a machinist, for
> twist bits get gen-you-whine (like Denis says) High Speed Steel (HSS).
> Accept no substitutes. =A0Forget "coated" or "nitride" or that real
> scam, the "chrome vanadium" nonsense on the $5 table. =A0They're all
> junk. =A0Get real HSS or nothing. =A0You could go "carbide" (not carbon!)=
,
> but that's money wasted unless you really need it. =A0For wood, believe
> me, you don't.
HSS it is. thanks all.
MW
On Apr 8, 6:40=A0pm, Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Apr 8, 5:50=A0pm, Mark Whittingham <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > I'm looking for some good quality drill bits. =A0I'm planning to get a
> > full 29 piece index of both brad point and twist bit style. =A0As far a=
s
> > brad point bits go, I'm probably going to go with Lee Valley HSS. =A0Fo=
r
> > the twist bits though I'm wondering if I should go with cobalt or
> > cobalt coated or tatanium nitride or whatever - I have no idea what
> > they mean or what they do. =A0I just want a good set that will handle
> > unhardened steel in addition to wood. =A0Any info for me? =A0Thanks.
>
> > MEW
>
> I seldom drill in steel, so the suggestion I have deals with the
> cabinet building/wood side of things. I really like, and almost always
> use the tapered bits with an attached counter-sink. In my installation
> toolbox I have a cheapo set of DeWalt bits which have the little pilot
> tittie on the tip. Certainly not a set of 29.
> I go nowhere without my trusty tapered bits.http://www.leevalley.com/wood=
/page.aspx?c=3D1&p=3D32309&cat=3D1,180,42240
(I just buy the set of 5)
On 2010-04-08, Denis M <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> "Mark Whittingham" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> the twist bits though I'm wondering if I should go with cobalt or
>> cobalt coated or tatanium nitride or whatever - I have no idea what
>> they mean or what they do. I just want a good set that will handle
>> unhardened steel in addition to wood. Any info for me? Thanks.
> HSS drill bits are better:
>
> I have used common carbon steel and coated drill bits. Superior results
> were obtained with genuine HSS.
> Many drill bits are labeled HSS but not all are made with true
Jes where does one find those?
Anyway.... I don't know spit about wood bits, but as a machinist, for
twist bits get gen-you-whine (like Denis says) High Speed Steel (HSS).
Accept no substitutes. Forget "coated" or "nitride" or that real
scam, the "chrome vanadium" nonsense on the $5 table. They're all
junk. Get real HSS or nothing. You could go "carbide" (not carbon!),
but that's money wasted unless you really need it. For wood, believe
me, you don't.
If you have any doubts:
http://www.vermontamerican.com/SupportCenter/TechTips/Drill+Bits/
nb
On 04/08/2010 04:40 PM, Robatoy wrote:
> I go nowhere without my trusty tapered bits.
> http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=32309&cat=1,180,42240
I looked at those, but I realized that they really only apply to tapered
brass screws and you need to set the depth precisely to match the length
of the screw.
For assembly work I normally use rolled-thread screws where the shank is
almost the same as the root diameter. The tapered drills don't match
these screws well at all.
Chris
On Apr 8, 3:50=A0pm, Mark Whittingham <[email protected]> wrote:
> I'm looking for some good quality drill bits. =A0I'm planning to get a
> full 29 piece index of both brad point and twist bit style. =A0As far as
> brad point bits go, I'm probably going to go with Lee Valley HSS. =A0For
> the twist bits though I'm wondering if I should go with cobalt or
> cobalt coated or tatanium nitride or whatever - I have no idea what
> they mean or what they do. =A0I just want a good set that will handle
> unhardened steel in addition to wood. =A0Any info for me? =A0Thanks.
>
> MEW
Should get my Bosch "Cobalt Twist Drill Bit Assortment with Metal
Index, 29-Piece" in a couple of days.
Stay tuned.
My understanding is that -- for the moment -- these are as good as it
gets, will still do a nice, clean job with wood, and ... will handle
those occasional, nagging titanium-drilling tasks that ... just come
up.
Split point ... SHOULD keep the bits from walking -- a major issue on
cheaper bits.
Bought them from Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-CO4029-Cobalt-Assortment-29-Piece/dp/B0000TZX3K
If nothing else, I'm looking forward to not breaking them, and having
them stay sharp longer....
On 2010-04-10, Stuart <[email protected]> wrote:
> In article
><cc762317-e83e-41af-aee2-28afcc21e3b3@z11g2000yqz.googlegroups.com>,
> Neil Brooks <[email protected]> wrote:
>> My understanding is that -- for the moment -- these are as good as it
>> gets, will still do a nice, clean job with wood, and ... will handle
>> those occasional, nagging titanium-drilling tasks that ... just come
>> up.
>
> Hmmm >-|
>
> For metal I'd go look for Dormer, Intal, Presto, Osbourne.
>
> In the US, probably Brown and Sharpe or similar
>
I use these for metal:
http://drillbitcity.com/catalogue/10_piece.asp?Pt=4&St=&Sc=
These will handle hardened steel (knife tangs).
seismo malm
If you want bits for steel, try these.
http://www.wintersdrillbitcity.com/
Bob
"Mark Whittingham" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm looking for some good quality drill bits. I'm planning to get a
> full 29 piece index of both brad point and twist bit style. As far as
> brad point bits go, I'm probably going to go with Lee Valley HSS. For
> the twist bits though I'm wondering if I should go with cobalt or
> cobalt coated or tatanium nitride or whatever - I have no idea what
> they mean or what they do. I just want a good set that will handle
> unhardened steel in addition to wood. Any info for me? Thanks.
>
> MEW