I'm in the process of belt sanding my exterior of my home. It's all cedar
siding. I've owned the home for 8 years and never touched it. It
previously had Sikkens Cetol 1 on it.
What is the best finish?
Terry
[email protected]
I am in the process of doing a western red cedar project on my house. I
have been doing a lot of studying and have decided that Cetol 1
finished with 2 coats of Cetol 23 is the best way for me to go. It can
be hard to get in the northeast because of some new pollution laws and
it is damned expensive ($45-$50/gal). I don't have too much to finish
so I can deal with the price.
Somwhere in my studies, I read that cedar must be finished and that it
shouldn't be left to weather. It may have been on the Cedar website,
I'm not sure (then again it may have been on a paint manufacturer's
site).
Click on this link http://www.cedar-siding.org/finishing/intro.htm to
see what they say about preparing and finishing new or existing cedar.
Chuck
I am in the process of doing a western red cedar project on my house. I
have been doing a lot of studying and have decided that Cetol 1
finished with 2 coats of Cetol 23 is the best way for me to go. It can
be hard to get in the northeast because of some new pollution laws and
it is damned expensive ($45-$50/gal). I don't have too much to finish
so I can deal with the price.
Somwhere in my studies, I read that cedar must be finished and that it
shouldn't be left to weather. It may have been on the Cedar website,
I'm not sure (then again it may have been on a paint manufacturer's
site).
Click on this link http://www.cedar-siding.org/finishing/intro.htm to
see what they say about preparing and finishing new or existing cedar.
Chuck
T Boss wrote:
> I'm in the process of belt sanding my exterior of my home. > Terry
> [email protected]
That sounds like a criminal punishment. Did you consider pressure
washing it? Sam
Pressure washer works better (and faster) than beltsanding. My
cedar siding was dingy gray before (low) pressure washing the cedar
looked almost new and smelled like fresh cedar when it was done. Pump
sprayed (like for spraying pesticides, etc.) a tinted stain with a UV
screen mixed in to discourage the gray discoloration from the sun for a
while since I live in sunny Florida. Its been holding up for about 8
years now but it is starting to fade to gray again where the sun bakes
it the most.
Robert
T Boss wrote:
> I'm in the process of belt sanding my exterior of my home. It's all cedar
> siding. I've owned the home for 8 years and never touched it. It
> previously had Sikkens Cetol 1 on it.
>
> What is the best finish?
>
>
> Terry
> [email protected]
"Chuck" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I am in the process of doing a western red cedar project on my house. I
> have been doing a lot of studying and have decided that Cetol 1
> finished with 2 coats of Cetol 23 is the best way for me to go. It can
> be hard to get in the northeast because of some new pollution laws and
> it is damned expensive ($45-$50/gal). I don't have too much to finish
> so I can deal with the price.
Where are you located? My local Cetol dealer (Bardell's) is in Woodstock
Ct. He said he was grandfathered and can sell some of the oil based stuff
that others cannot. He did say it was sometimes difficult to get it from the
factory though.
Yes, I practised on my fence and deck first. Pressure washer destroys the
smooth finish and leaves it fuzzy like a peach. Sanding is slow but I'm
going to be happy with the results. Sped it up today by using 50 grit vs
80. Finished the front of attached garage today. It took about 4 hours
sanding. I'm going to finish it tomorrow with Cetol 1 and then 23 since the
weather in Winnipeg is sunny for the next 3 days.
Terry
"Sam" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>T Boss wrote:
>> I'm in the process of belt sanding my exterior of my home. > Terry
>> [email protected]
>
> That sounds like a criminal punishment. Did you consider pressure
> washing it? Sam
>
"Chuck" <[email protected]> wrote in message =
news:[email protected]...
| I am in the process of doing a western red cedar project on my house. =
I
| have been doing a lot of studying and have decided that Cetol 1
| finished with 2 coats of Cetol 23 is the best way for me to go. It can
| be hard to get in the northeast because of some new pollution laws and
| it is damned expensive ($45-$50/gal). I don't have too much to finish
| so I can deal with the price.
|=20
| Somwhere in my studies, I read that cedar must be finished and that it
| shouldn't be left to weather. It may have been on the Cedar website,
| I'm not sure (then again it may have been on a paint manufacturer's
| site).
|=20
| Click on this link http://www.cedar-siding.org/finishing/intro.htm to
| see what they say about preparing and finishing new or existing cedar.
|=20
| Chuck
|=20
Before you get into Sikkens, or any other product, have a look at this =
site:
http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/fplgtr/fplgtr113/fplgtr113.htm
Especially=20
Chapter 13 -- Biodeterioration of Wood (PDF 599 KB)
Chapter 14 -- Wood Preservation (PDF 1.2 MB) and
Chapter 15 -- Finishing of Wood (PDF 2.2 MB)
I put Sikkens on my deck, it looked real good when I finished and it =
lasted about 2 years. At that point it began to peel and crack so I =
reapplied the overcoat as per instructions. That lasted about another =
year or two before it again cracked and peeled.=20
Given the expense of the product and the short duration I decided to go =
completely natural. I now have a beautiful silver deck which requires =
only occasional cleaning.
The upshot of all this is, according to Sikkens, ALL 6 SIDES must be =
properly covered with their product for it to have any lasting =
capability. In this I must whole heartedly agree. I also did a well =
casing cover in cedar and I totally covered the wood (6 sides) with 2 =
coats of Sikkens before construction and it has lasted some 6 years and =
still looks great.
If you cannot get all 6 sides, be prepared for regular peeling and =
cracking.
--=20
PDQ
--
Thanks for the health risk. I did start using a paper filter today. I'll
read more about what you said.
All the reputable cedar guys in town sell / recommend the Sikkens product.
Sikkens recommended Cetol 1 + 23 after I remove the old Cetol 1.
Maintenance would be Cetal 23 every 2/3 years. I just did my deck and
fence with Cetol SRD (Siding, Railing, Deck). I sanded the deck as well.
SRD goes on in one coat and is recommended for anything lower than 2 feet
from the ground and where you can't get all six sides done. I'll know in
two years how it holds up. I was thinking of a second coat in the spring
next year to ensure that it's covered well.
I've read on the net about Rhinoguard, Panofin, .... the list goes on on the
net. Wanted to hear from those in the trenches who work with this stuff.
Anything to save time (maintenance) and have it look good.
Terry
"Chuck" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> By the way, when I posted about my cedar project, I got lots of
> warnings about not breathing in cedar dust. I looked it up and they are
> right - it is nasty stuff. You should probably use a respirator when
> you are sanding this stuff.
>
> Chuck
>
What are you trying to accomplish? Cedar doesn't need a finish.
Steve
"T Boss" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:fwiGe.64568$s54.27493@pd7tw2no...
> I'm in the process of belt sanding my exterior of my home. It's all cedar
> siding. I've owned the home for 8 years and never touched it. It
> previously had Sikkens Cetol 1 on it.
>
> What is the best finish?
>
>
> Terry
> [email protected]
>
>
>
>