Grinder Stand

Kevin <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> On 08 Sep 2009 00:38:33 GMT, Puckdropper
> <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
>
>>I've been thinking about building free standing stand for my bench
>>grinder. One design I've been thinking about is a 4-sided tapered
>>tower. It would be about 10" on the bottom, and angle down to around
>>7" at the top.
>
> First question: Why?

Because I want one.

> Second question: No really, why?

I'm using this as kind of a learning experience. Not only do I need a
grinder stand, but the more complex angles would be an interesting
project. Compound angles on a table saw means building a taper jig and
tilting the blade. Sounds interesting.

> Why make it 10 times more difficult than it needs to be?
>
> Why give up storage space under the grinder? I have a drawer for all
> the sharpening related stuff and the rest is loaded up with turning
> blanks.

Who says I've got to give up storage? I can still fit drawers in to the
structure, even square drawers with the front face at the angle of the
tower.

> If you ever want to mount something like the oneway grinding jig you
> need a platform under the wheels to mount to.
>
>
> -Kevin
>

Maybe the idea is pointlessly complex... but it's certainly fun to think
about.

Puckdropper
--
"The potential difference between the top and bottom of a tree is the
reason why all trees have to be grounded..." -- Bored Borg on
rec.woodworking

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

"Puckdropper" <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've been thinking about building free standing stand for my bench
> grinder.
> One design I've been thinking about is a 4-sided tapered tower. It would
> be about 10" on the bottom, and angle down to around 7" at the top.
>
> If I wanted to work with mitered corners (no box joints this time, Lew),
> would it simply be a matter of cutting them to complementary angles on the
> saw when I make the tapered pieces?
>
> Would there be enough support to prevent tipping? I plan on using pine so
> I won't have the mass that the commercial versions have.
>
I used to make gym equipment. Everything I built could be attached to the
floor or a peice of plywood. Solved a lot of stability problems. Or you
could make a wooden base like lathes use and stuff it with sandbags.

Limp Arbor <[email protected]> wrote in
news:37e5f06c-66c0-4c61-a2d1-88eb58e155e4@p36g2000vbn.googlegroups.com:

> On Sep 7, 8:38 pm, Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
>> I've been thinking about building free standing stand for my bench
>> grinde
> r.  
>> One design I've been thinking about is a 4-sided tapered tower.  It
>> wou
> ld
>> be about 10" on the bottom, and angle down to around 7" at the top.
>>
>> If I wanted to work with mitered corners (no box joints this time,
>> Lew), would it simply be a matter of cutting them to complementary
>> angles on th
> e
>> saw when I make the tapered pieces?
>>
>> Would there be enough support to prevent tipping?  
>
>
> Probably not, check the specs on this stand. The tray halfway up is a
> little bigger than 12 x 12.
> http://toolsbestshop.com/index.php?keyword=BenchGrinderStand-HD&Search=
> Search&Itemid=1&option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.browse

Looks like the base is around 14x14 (just a guesstimate.) That's about
twice the area I had planned for. At that size, I'd be worried about the
base being so far out it's difficult to get to the tool. I guess that's
why cabinets have toe kicks, though.

> You need to build one of these bad boys
> http://www.woodmagazine.com/ideas/wood-shop-showcase/idea-shop-52/?page
> =10

That's got potential (for someone else's shop) especially if the tops are
the same height as the table saw! The tools could hide away nicely, and
there'd be plenty of infeed/outfeed tables.

> Luckily for me my grinder fit nicely between the two garage door
> tracks so I just mounted it there on a reinforced shelf.

Hey, that's not a bad idea! If I had some spare wall space, that'd be an
easy way to go.

Puckdropper
--
"The potential difference between the top and bottom of a tree is the
reason why all trees have to be grounded..." -- Bored Borg on
rec.woodworking

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

Phisherman <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> On 08 Sep 2009 00:38:33 GMT, Puckdropper
> <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
>
>>I've been thinking about building free standing stand for my bench
>>grinder. One design I've been thinking about is a 4-sided tapered
>>tower. It would be about 10" on the bottom, and angle down to around
>>7" at the top.
>>
>>If I wanted to work with mitered corners (no box joints this time,
>>Lew), would it simply be a matter of cutting them to complementary
>>angles on the saw when I make the tapered pieces?
>>
>>Would there be enough support to prevent tipping? I plan on using
>>pine so I won't have the mass that the commercial versions have.
>>
>>Puckdropper
>
>
> I recall an inexpensive home-built grinder stand, made from two ply
> squares, two PVC flanges, and PVC pipe. Fill the PVC pipe with sand
> for weight and vibration control. With a flared base, I wondered how
> you can get close to the wheel? Grinder stands are typically tippy,
> so more weight will help.

I'll definately rethink the design to include a more secure mounting (the
wall) or weight. I did screw the grinder down to the table when I was
using it regularly, so it does tend to vibrate around quite a bit.

Thanks everyone.

Puckdropper
--
"The potential difference between the top and bottom of a tree is the
reason why all trees have to be grounded..." -- Bored Borg on
rec.woodworking

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

On Sep 7, 8:38=A0pm, Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
> I've been thinking about building free standing stand for my bench grinde=
r. =A0
> One design I've been thinking about is a 4-sided tapered tower. =A0It wou=
ld
> be about 10" on the bottom, and angle down to around 7" at the top.
>
> If I wanted to work with mitered corners (no box joints this time, Lew),
> would it simply be a matter of cutting them to complementary angles on th=
e
> saw when I make the tapered pieces?
>
> Would there be enough support to prevent tipping? =A0


Probably not, check the specs on this stand. The tray halfway up is a
little bigger than 12 x 12.
http://toolsbestshop.com/index.php?keyword=3DBenchGrinderStand-HD&Search=3D=
Search&Itemid=3D1&option=3Dcom_virtuemart&page=3Dshop.browse

You need to build one of these bad boys
http://www.woodmagazine.com/ideas/wood-shop-showcase/idea-shop-52/?page=3D1=
0

Luckily for me my grinder fit nicely between the two garage door
tracks so I just mounted it there on a reinforced shelf.

"Puckdropper" wrote:

> I've been thinking about building free standing stand for my bench
> grinder.

Another one I built from some 1/2" CDX and 2x4s.

The top, maybe 12"x15", consists of 1/2" CDX doubled with a skirt of
2x4 kicked out 5 degrees on all sides.

Legs are 2x4s with 5 degree compound cut on top.

Bottom of leg has hole drilled to accept a 1/2"-13 T-Nut and a 1/2"-13
galvanized carriage bolt with locking nut inserted.

These serve as leveling screws.

1/2" CDX gusset plates, maybe 9" x 15", attach legs to 2x4 skirt.

Painted mine bright yellow and was left outside in SoCal year around
with only a tarp thrown over for protection.

It was so ugly nobody stole it which worked for me.

YMMV

Have fun.

Lew

On 08 Sep 2009 00:38:33 GMT, Puckdropper
<puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:

>I've been thinking about building free standing stand for my bench grinder.
>One design I've been thinking about is a 4-sided tapered tower. It would
>be about 10" on the bottom, and angle down to around 7" at the top.
>
>If I wanted to work with mitered corners (no box joints this time, Lew),
>would it simply be a matter of cutting them to complementary angles on the
>saw when I make the tapered pieces?
>
>Would there be enough support to prevent tipping? I plan on using pine so
>I won't have the mass that the commercial versions have.
>
>Puckdropper


I recall an inexpensive home-built grinder stand, made from two ply
squares, two PVC flanges, and PVC pipe. Fill the PVC pipe with sand
for weight and vibration control. With a flared base, I wondered how
you can get close to the wheel? Grinder stands are typically tippy,
so more weight will help.

"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Puckdropper" wrote:
>
>> I've been thinking about building free standing stand for my bench
>> grinder.
>
> Know somebody who can do some welding for you, maybe in exchange for some
> woodworking?
>
> Neatest grinder stand I ever saw consisted of an old tire rim as a base
> with some 1/4" plate pieces and a piece of 2" pipe for the riser.
>
> Stable but could be moved if necessary and ignored grinding dust.
>
> Just a thought.
>
> Lew
>
Along this same line is to use a semi truck brake drum, not too large in
diameter
and very heavy(stable). Truck repair shops will usually let you have them
for scrap
price as they are otherwise useless.

basilisk

Kevin wrote:

> Why give up storage space under the grinder? I have a drawer for all
> the sharpening related stuff and the rest is loaded up with turning
> blanks.

Thats pretty much how I feel about all tool stands. Someone, and I've
seen it many times, suggest building a bench for your lathe and loading
it with sand bags? Seems lame to me when a lathe bench is perfect place
for a multi-drawer bench that stores all your lathe tools and accessories.

I do like the flip top designs for occasional use tools. For example, I
have a bench top mortiser that I'd love to have mounted in a flip top.
Probably wouldn't mind doing the same with my grinder. Not sure how to
go about making the flip top.

--
Jack
Got Change: Van Guard ======> Van Jones
http://jbstein.com

> Along this same line is to use a semi truck brake drum, not too large in
> diameter
> and very heavy(stable). Truck repair shops will usually let you have them
> for scrap
> price as they are otherwise useless.
>
> basilisk
>

I'm the mechanic for our house, too, and I use regular car discs for
this kind of thing (and exact thing) all the time.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 08 Sep 2009 00:38:33 GMT, Puckdropper
<puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:

>I've been thinking about building free standing stand for my bench grinder.
>One design I've been thinking about is a 4-sided tapered tower. It would
>be about 10" on the bottom, and angle down to around 7" at the top.

First question: Why?

Second question: No really, why?

Why make it 10 times more difficult than it needs to be?

Why give up storage space under the grinder? I have a drawer for all
the sharpening related stuff and the rest is loaded up with turning
blanks.

If you ever want to mount something like the oneway grinding jig you
need a platform under the wheels to mount to.


-Kevin

"Puckdropper" wrote:

> I've been thinking about building free standing stand for my bench
> grinder.

Know somebody who can do some welding for you, maybe in exchange for
some woodworking?

Neatest grinder stand I ever saw consisted of an old tire rim as a
base with some 1/4" plate pieces and a piece of 2" pipe for the riser.

Stable but could be moved if necessary and ignored grinding dust.

Just a thought.

Lew

On 2009-09-08, Lew Hodgett <[email protected]> wrote:

> Stable but could be moved if necessary

Adding concrete couldn't hurt.

...and ignored grinding dust.

What doesn't?

nb