"Lazarus Long" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
On Mon, 23 Aug 2004 22:26:37 GMT, "Ron Magen" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Dave,
>I'm an 'epoxy man', myself - however here is a tip . . .
>
>If I don't need the factors of epoxy, I usually turn to Titebond II
>See what happens. You may be pleasantly surprised. Still and all, I don't
>think I have ever trusted a joint with glue alone - always 'back-up' with
>some mechanical fastener. Other than chair rungs & spreaders . . . and
those
>usually come apart at some point in the future !! Typically, I will use
>Marine Bronze screws - even incorporating them into the design as an
accent.
>They also gain a nice patina that blends right into the tone of the Teak.
>
>Regards & Good Luck,
>Ron Magen
>Backyard Boatshop
>
Why use a mechanical fastener? On every single item I've ever looked
at where a screw/nail/whatever was used in an attempt to hold one
piece of wood to another, they themselve had failed. loose, rickety,
missing altogether. The epoxy you use is plenty. It's also itself
not removeable in the future, but what the hell, huh? If mechanical
methods of attachment are still something you want to do, why not
arrange the joint to use a dovetail or some sort of interlocking key?
Maybe a fox wedged tenon. Heck, the japanese joinery books may also
provide some ideas.
Rungs on chairs should be done greenwood fashion any way - really
really dry tenon into relatively wet mortise. When the mortise dries,
that joint isn't coming apart anytime soon. Maybe your grandkids'll
have to deal with it when it comes apart in 100 years. And they'll be
greatful you didn't fill the joint with epoxy. Remember, there's a
reason well built colonial windsor chairs are still together.
Myself? I've used epoxy in lots of joints. In Teak, I use a product
named G2 made by "Industrial Formulators of Canada". I believe it's
sold by Lee Valley.
I second that, G2 is the stuff to use.
On Mon, 23 Aug 2004 16:54:15 GMT, "David Anderson" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>What is the best glue for teak furniture construction (indoor use). I have
>read that because of its oily nature, not all glues are satisfactory.
>
gorilla glue works great. freshly sand/mill the wood dampen both sides and glue
it up. acetone tends to pull oils to the surface.
--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.
"David Anderson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> What is the best glue for teak furniture construction (indoor use). I
have
> read that because of its oily nature, not all glues are satisfactory.
> Thanks, Dave
Check out Gorilla glue. You can buy it most anywhere. You usually have to
dampen half of the joint with water and apply the glue to the other board.
They have instructions and technical notes on their website for many species
of wood including teak. Click this link (you must be able to read acrobat
files)
http://www.gorillaglue.com/pdfs/technicalDataWood.pdf
good luck
Frank
Lazarus,
I build BOATS . . . not furniture. The 'circumstances of use', in MY opinion
DEMAND a prudent approach to the building techniques. If the glue and/or
joint in a hutch fails, someone may bitch, moan, or complain. Worst case,
you take it back and re-do the joint. If a parent puts a child in something
I built, sets them afloat on a small pond or lake and a critical part fails
. . . do you know there have been drownings in as little as 6 inches of
water.
That being said, I also make a few other items . . . such as a Memorial Flag
Case for my wife's father's flag. I made a duplicate for the widow of a
neighbor. While I used Mahogany, if they had been 'Navy men' I probably
would have used Teak. The original plan called for 'glue only' assembly.
Because it was 3/4 stock, some substantial pieces, that would be placed in a
normal home environment - I chose to reinforce the Titebond II glue with
screws. 'Hidden' ones for the base, and visible Bronze ones for the
glass-holding face frame. Where they were placed, in respect to the 'points'
of the case & Flag - repeated the points of the stars on the blue field.
Through the heating & cooling, humid & dry cycles of the year, the joints on
these cases won't open.
I agree with your description of 'greenwood style'. Probably the method Roy
Underhill would illustrate on his show. Maybe even on a 'peeled' wood chair.
By the same token, he was {maybe still is} associated with Williamsburg. As
you described the colonial chair - 'well built Windsor' - being the
operative words. For every one of the Chairs in the Governor's residence,
there were how many in in the outlying farms ? How much did a nail {imported
from England} cost? How many could be made from 'bog iron' by the local
blacksmith? How many skilled Masters man-hours went into that WINDSOR chair?
The chairs I'm familiar with {and originally alluded to} were either some
100 year old Captain's Chairs and some 10 year 'store bought' kitchen
chairs. The last were 'cleaned & re-glued about 3 times with all the
'experts' tricks. The last time I applied a touch of 'engineering logic' and
they haven't come apart in the last 5 years.
Regards,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop
"Lazarus Long" <[email protected]> wrote ...
> On Mon, 23 Aug 2004 22:26:37 GMT, "Ron Magen" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >Dave,
> >I'm an 'epoxy man', myself - however here is a tip . . .
> >
> >If I don't need the factors of epoxy, I usually turn to Titebond II
> >See what happens. You may be pleasantly surprised. Still and all, I don't
> >think I have ever trusted a joint with glue alone - always 'back-up' with
> >some mechanical fastener. Other than chair rungs & spreaders . . . and
those
> >usually come apart at some point in the future !! Typically, I will use
> >Marine Bronze screws - even incorporating them into the design as an
accent.
> >They also gain a nice patina that blends right into the tone of the Teak.
> >
> >Regards & Good Luck,
> >Ron Magen
> >Backyard Boatshop
> >
>
> Why use a mechanical fastener? On every single item I've ever looked
> at where a screw/nail/whatever was used in an attempt to hold one
> piece of wood to another, they themselve had failed. loose, rickety,
> missing altogether.
>
> Rungs on chairs should be done greenwood fashion any way - really
> really dry tenon into relatively wet mortise.
SNIP
Remember, there's a reason well built colonial windsor chairs are still
together.
>
Just an aside but Outlook Express can be set to mark quoted material with
">" marks. If you use that feature it makes your posts much easier to read
as one can quickly spot the new information that you have added.
John Wilson wrote:
>
> "Lazarus Long" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> On Mon, 23 Aug 2004 22:26:37 GMT, "Ron Magen" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>Dave,
>>I'm an 'epoxy man', myself - however here is a tip . . .
>>
>>If I don't need the factors of epoxy, I usually turn to Titebond II
>>See what happens. You may be pleasantly surprised. Still and all, I don't
>>think I have ever trusted a joint with glue alone - always 'back-up' with
>>some mechanical fastener. Other than chair rungs & spreaders . . . and
> those
>>usually come apart at some point in the future !! Typically, I will use
>>Marine Bronze screws - even incorporating them into the design as an
> accent.
>>They also gain a nice patina that blends right into the tone of the Teak.
>>
>>Regards & Good Luck,
>>Ron Magen
>>Backyard Boatshop
>>
>
> Why use a mechanical fastener? On every single item I've ever looked
> at where a screw/nail/whatever was used in an attempt to hold one
> piece of wood to another, they themselve had failed. loose, rickety,
> missing altogether. The epoxy you use is plenty. It's also itself
> not removeable in the future, but what the hell, huh? If mechanical
> methods of attachment are still something you want to do, why not
> arrange the joint to use a dovetail or some sort of interlocking key?
> Maybe a fox wedged tenon. Heck, the japanese joinery books may also
> provide some ideas.
>
> Rungs on chairs should be done greenwood fashion any way - really
> really dry tenon into relatively wet mortise. When the mortise dries,
> that joint isn't coming apart anytime soon. Maybe your grandkids'll
> have to deal with it when it comes apart in 100 years. And they'll be
> greatful you didn't fill the joint with epoxy. Remember, there's a
> reason well built colonial windsor chairs are still together.
>
> Myself? I've used epoxy in lots of joints. In Teak, I use a product
> named G2 made by "Industrial Formulators of Canada". I believe it's
> sold by Lee Valley.
>
> I second that, G2 is the stuff to use.
--
--John
Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
On Mon, 23 Aug 2004 22:26:37 GMT, "Ron Magen" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Dave,
>I'm an 'epoxy man', myself - however here is a tip . . .
>
>If I don't need the factors of epoxy, I usually turn to Titebond II
>See what happens. You may be pleasantly surprised. Still and all, I don't
>think I have ever trusted a joint with glue alone - always 'back-up' with
>some mechanical fastener. Other than chair rungs & spreaders . . . and those
>usually come apart at some point in the future !! Typically, I will use
>Marine Bronze screws - even incorporating them into the design as an accent.
>They also gain a nice patina that blends right into the tone of the Teak.
>
>Regards & Good Luck,
>Ron Magen
>Backyard Boatshop
>
Why use a mechanical fastener? On every single item I've ever looked
at where a screw/nail/whatever was used in an attempt to hold one
piece of wood to another, they themselve had failed. loose, rickety,
missing altogether. The epoxy you use is plenty. It's also itself
not removeable in the future, but what the hell, huh? If mechanical
methods of attachment are still something you want to do, why not
arrange the joint to use a dovetail or some sort of interlocking key?
Maybe a fox wedged tenon. Heck, the japanese joinery books may also
provide some ideas.
Rungs on chairs should be done greenwood fashion any way - really
really dry tenon into relatively wet mortise. When the mortise dries,
that joint isn't coming apart anytime soon. Maybe your grandkids'll
have to deal with it when it comes apart in 100 years. And they'll be
greatful you didn't fill the joint with epoxy. Remember, there's a
reason well built colonial windsor chairs are still together.
Myself? I've used epoxy in lots of joints. In Teak, I use a product
named G2 made by "Industrial Formulators of Canada". I believe it's
sold by Lee Valley.
Dave,
I'm an 'epoxy man', myself - however here is a tip . . .
If I don't need the factors of epoxy, I usually turn to Titebond II. It's
available just about everywhere and I would hazard to guess it's what most
of the people on this forum use. Get some Acetone and a couple of sample
pieces of Teak. Dampen a clean rag with the Acetone, and wipe down the
Teak - where you will be applying the glue. Wipe it well and make sure you
see the Acetone dampen the wood. As soon as it 'flashes off', apply the glue
and clamp as usual. Allow the joint to set {an article in a recent issue of
WOOD claims a couple of hours is all that is needed - as opposed to the
overnight that is the 'usual' }.
See what happens. You may be pleasantly surprised. Still and all, I don't
think I have ever trusted a joint with glue alone - always 'back-up' with
some mechanical fastener. Other than chair rungs & spreaders . . . and those
usually come apart at some point in the future !! Typically, I will use
Marine Bronze screws - even incorporating them into the design as an accent.
They also gain a nice patina that blends right into the tone of the Teak.
Regards & Good Luck,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop
"David Anderson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> What is the best glue for teak furniture construction (indoor use). I
have
> read that because of its oily nature, not all glues are satisfactory.
> Thanks, Dave
>
>