Howdy!
In article <[email protected]>,
Doug Miller <[email protected]> wrote:
>In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] (BlueDude) wrote:
>>On Sat, 16 Oct 2004 08:10:05 -0400, "George" <george@least> wrote:
>>
>>Customer's project calls for metric dimension, please don't ask me
>>what am I making :-).
>
>8mm is all of twenty-five ten-thousandths of an inch larger than 5/16".
>*Nobody* will be able to tell the difference just by looking. Do you *really*
>think your customer is going to put a caliper on the dowels to check?
>
>More things to consider:
>
>1) Depending on where they were sourced from, nominal 5/16" dowels may be
>actual 8mm anyway -- have *you* put a caliper on the dowels available from
>your suppliers to see how big they really are?
>
>2) In my experience, the tolerances used in the manufacture of dowels are
>loose enough that there will easily be several thousandths variation in
>diameter from rod to rod -- and even on the *same* rod, depending on whether
>you measure along, or across, the grain.
Hah! I've seen dowels that were more like a full thirty-second undersize.
yours,
Michael
--
Michael and MJ Houghton | Herveus d'Ormonde and Megan O'Donnelly
[email protected] | White Wolf and the Phoenix
Bowie, MD, USA | Tablet and Inkle bands, and other stuff
| http://www.radix.net/~herveus/wwap/
On Sat, 16 Oct 2004 01:40:28 GMT, [email protected] (BlueDude)
wrote:
>
>Can some tell me where I could buy metric dimensions dowel rod and
>Thanks
>
It might be easier to acquire the nearest (larger) size locally and
run them through a self made dowel pop.
Drill out a piece of found steel with a metric drill bit of the
appropriate diameter. Follow with a larger bit to create a
countersink shape, allowing the larger bit to just touch the downside
opening created by the original bit, without increasing the original
bore's diameter.
Hammer the slightly oversized stock through.
You can actually dispense with the acquisition of the original dowel
stock and simply rip squared pieces out on the saw, to a width
slightly greater than the desired diameter.
Hammer through your dowel pop and you are done.
Regards,
Tom.
"People funny. Life a funny thing." Sonny Liston
Thomas J.Watson - Cabinetmaker (ret.)
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (real email)
http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1
Puzzled. Why metric dowel versus SAE bit if you're making something
yourself?
"BlueDude" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Can some tell me where I could buy metric dimensions dowel rod and
> Thanks
>
>
On Sat, 16 Oct 2004 08:10:05 -0400, "George" <george@least> wrote:
Customer's project calls for metric dimension, please don't ask me
what am I making :-).
Do you know where I could buy metric sizes dowel rod or another
suggestions? I have look into Lee Valley's dowel maker and they are
SAE sizes and not adjustable.
>Puzzled. Why metric dowel versus SAE bit if you're making something
>yourself?
On Sat, 16 Oct 2004 09:38:34 -0400, [email protected] (J T)
wrote:
Awe! It's nothing that will be of any interest to anyone here. How
come all of a sudden you are so interested?
"Don't ask, don't tell" :-)
In replying to Doug Miller post, 5/16" (0.313") is smaller than 8mm
(0.315") and almost undistinguishable. I'll ask customer using your
rational explanation and see if that's OK.
Thanks, I appreciate it very much.
>Sat, Oct 16, 2004, 3:21pm (EDT+4) [email protected] (BlueDude)
>responds to::
>On Sat, 16 Oct 2004 08:10:05 -0400, "George" <george@least> wrote:
>Puzzled. Why metric dowel versus SAE bit if you're making something
>yourself?
>with:
>Customer's project calls for metric dimension, please don't ask me what
>am I making :-).
>
> OK, I'll ask instead. Whatcha making?
> And, why is metric "required"?
>
>
>
>JOAT
>Flush the Johns.
>- seen on a bumper sticker
>
Sat, Oct 16, 2004, 4:51pm (EDT+4) [email protected] (BlueDude)
queries:
Awe! It's nothing that will be of any interest to anyone here. How come
all of a sudden you are so interested? <snip>
Because I think it's so incredibly hokey yout client "needs" that
close a tolerence on wooden dowels.
JOAT
Flush the Johns.
- seen on a bumper sticker
On Sat, 16 Oct 2004 20:03:57 -0400, [email protected] (J T)
wrote:
> Because I think it's so incredibly hokey yout client "needs" that
>close a tolerence on wooden dowels.
Customers are King, they provide bread and butter on the table, unless
of course you prefer to go hungry :-).
Thanks JOAT and everyone, do have a good weekend!
>JOAT
>Flush the Johns.
>- seen on a bumper sticker
>
"BlueDude" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> Customers are King, they provide bread and butter on the table, unless
> of course you prefer to go hungry :-).
>
Yes they are. Sometimes the King Customer writes silly specs though. Or
they are just not informed of certain limitations or material availability.
The supplier has an obligation to the customer to provide a product, but
also expertise. I've seen many a design that looked good on paper, but with
a little change, the cost cold be cut 10% or 50% because of tooling
consideration, machine utilization, material savings, etc.
You customer may be the best Widget maker in the world, but if he wants
some Burfls, and knows little of them, he may spec the wrong sizes. Instance
recently. Customer sent us a drawing of a part he wanted molded. Two parts
could be made at the same time and the final price was 90¢ each. We
suggested he cut the size by 1/2" and the part could be made for 60¢ each.
Thirty cents is not a lot of money, but when you buy 50,000 of them at a
time, it sure its. Reducing the parts size allows us to make 4 in the same
time, same labor, about the same utilities.
It is worth a phone call to find out if he a really needs the metric size.
As mentioned about the differences in some being so slight, it may just be a
matter of asking for a larger +/- in the specs.
On Sat, 16 Oct 2004 20:03:57 -0400, [email protected] (J T)
wrote:
>Sat, Oct 16, 2004, 4:51pm (EDT+4) [email protected] (BlueDude)
>queries:
>Awe! It's nothing that will be of any interest to anyone here. How come
>all of a sudden you are so interested? <snip>
>
> Because I think it's so incredibly hokey yout client "needs" that
>close a tolerence on wooden dowels.
>
>
>
>JOAT
>Flush the Johns.
>- seen on a bumper sticker
Might not be a need for tolerance as much as a client that thinks in
metric..
Sat, Oct 16, 2004, 3:21pm (EDT+4) [email protected] (BlueDude)
responds to::
On Sat, 16 Oct 2004 08:10:05 -0400, "George" <george@least> wrote:
Puzzled. Why metric dowel versus SAE bit if you're making something
yourself?
with:
Customer's project calls for metric dimension, please don't ask me what
am I making :-).
OK, I'll ask instead. Whatcha making?
And, why is metric "required"?
JOAT
Flush the Johns.
- seen on a bumper sticker
Sat, Oct 16, 2004, 3:21pm (EDT+4) [email protected] (BlueDude)
responds to::
On Sat, 16 Oct 2004 08:10:05 -0400, "George" <george@least> wrote:
Puzzled. Why metric dowel versus SAE bit if you're making something
yourself?
with:
Customer's project calls for metric dimension, please don't ask me what
am I making :-).
OK, I'll ask instead. Whatcha making?
And, why is metric "required"?
JOAT
Flush the Johns.
- seen on a bumper sticker
I can only suggest making a dowel sizing plate with metric dimensions. You
really don't need great steel.
"BlueDude" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sat, 16 Oct 2004 08:10:05 -0400, "George" <george@least> wrote:
>
> Customer's project calls for metric dimension, please don't ask me
> what am I making :-).
>
> Do you know where I could buy metric sizes dowel rod or another
> suggestions? I have look into Lee Valley's dowel maker and they are
> SAE sizes and not adjustable.
>
> >Puzzled. Why metric dowel versus SAE bit if you're making something
> >yourself?
>
On Fri, 15 Oct 2004 20:18:53 -0400, Tom Watson <[email protected]>
wrote:
Thank you for replying, this what I'm thinking:
I need a few lengths 8mm dowel rods and about 14 inches long.
8mm is 0.3149", I could not use 5/16" (0.3125") dowel rods. If I use
3/8" (0.375") it would be inpossible to force it into 0.3149" hole and
get a good smooth finished.
How about reduce it twice using two two jigs (or steel) reducing it
1/32" at each go?
Thank you again.
>It might be easier to acquire the nearest (larger) size locally and
>run them through a self made dowel pop.
>
>Drill out a piece of found steel with a metric drill bit of the
>appropriate diameter. Follow with a larger bit to create a
>countersink shape, allowing the larger bit to just touch the downside
>opening created by the original bit, without increasing the original
>bore's diameter.
>
>Hammer the slightly oversized stock through.
>
>You can actually dispense with the acquisition of the original dowel
>stock and simply rip squared pieces out on the saw, to a width
>slightly greater than the desired diameter.
>
>Hammer through your dowel pop and you are done.
>
>
>
>Regards,
>Tom.
>
>"People funny. Life a funny thing." Sonny Liston
>
>Thomas J.Watson - Cabinetmaker (ret.)
>tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (real email)
>http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1
It would be impertinent to call them "L" rods?
"LRod" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sat, 16 Oct 2004 01:40:28 GMT, [email protected] (BlueDude)
> wrote:
>
> >
> >Can some tell me where I could buy metric dimensions dowel rod and
>
> What's with people referring to dowels as dowel rods?
>
> Main Entry: dow·el
> 1 : ... a round ROD or stick used especially for cutting up into
> dowels
>
> Main Entry: re·dun·dant
> 1 a : ...SUPERFLUOUS b : ...c : characterized by similarity or
> repetition
>
>
> - -
> LRod
>
> Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite
>
> Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999
>
> http://www.woodbutcher.net
On Sat, 16 Oct 2004 09:06:06 -0400, [email protected] (J T)
wrote:
Nope! Tried that and it looks like shit (sorry).
Thanks anyway, If I have no other alternative I will try Tom
suggestion. Instead of hammering the oversize dowel into the
metal die or jig, I will use a drill and slowly force it into the die
to get the metric dia. I need.
On Mon, 18 Oct 2004 14:35:37 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]>
wrote:
Thank you for the website below.
>Best I could come up with is:
>http://www.lie-nielsen.com/tool.html?id=DP
>
>Perhaps some of the imported dowels that don't fit well are truly metric?
>
>
Sat, Oct 16, 2004, 1:40am (EDT+4) [email protected] (BlueDude)
apparently asks:
Can some tell me where I could buy metric dimensions dowel rod and
Thanks
Buying slightly oversize, and a few swipes with sandpaper won't
work?
JOAT
Flush the Johns.
- seen on a bumper sticker
Vy are der so manny more orses asses den der are orses?
rhg
Prometheus wrote:
> On Sat, 16 Oct 2004 01:40:28 GMT, [email protected] (BlueDude)
> wrote:
>
>
>>Can some tell me where I could buy metric dimensions dowel rod and
>
>
> Europe?
>
"J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Prometheus wrote:
>
>> On Sat, 16 Oct 2004 01:40:28 GMT, [email protected] (BlueDude)
>> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>Can some tell me where I could buy metric dimensions dowel rod and
>>
>> Europe?
>
> If you can afford to buy Europe then just do so, then put it on the
> English
> system and the problem is solved.
>
> --
> --John
Best I could come up with is:
http://www.lie-nielsen.com/tool.html?id=DP
Perhaps some of the imported dowels that don't fit well are truly metric?
Prometheus wrote:
> On Sat, 16 Oct 2004 01:40:28 GMT, [email protected] (BlueDude)
> wrote:
>
>>
>>Can some tell me where I could buy metric dimensions dowel rod and
>
> Europe?
If you can afford to buy Europe then just do so, then put it on the English
system and the problem is solved.
--
--John
Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
On Sat, 16 Oct 2004 01:40:28 GMT, [email protected] (BlueDude)
wrote:
>
>Can some tell me where I could buy metric dimensions dowel rod and
Europe?
On Sat, 16 Oct 2004 01:40:28 GMT, [email protected] (BlueDude)
wrote:
>
>Can some tell me where I could buy metric dimensions dowel rod and
What's with people referring to dowels as dowel rods?
Main Entry: dow·el
1 : ... a round ROD or stick used especially for cutting up into
dowels
Main Entry: re·dun·dant
1 a : ...SUPERFLUOUS b : ...c : characterized by similarity or
repetition
- -
LRod
Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite
Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999
http://www.woodbutcher.net
On Sun, 17 Oct 2004 21:37:43 +0100, LRod
<[email protected]> wrote:
>What's with people referring to dowels as dowel rods?
>
They've always been sold as dowel rods or dowel pins, the difference
being the length, with the pins usually coming in shorter, ready to
use lengths and the rod coming in longer lengths, usually needing to
be cut before use.
Regards,
Tom.
"People funny. Life a funny thing." Sonny Liston
Thomas J.Watson - Cabinetmaker (ret.)
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (real email)
http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] (BlueDude) wrote:
>On Sat, 16 Oct 2004 08:10:05 -0400, "George" <george@least> wrote:
>
>Customer's project calls for metric dimension, please don't ask me
>what am I making :-).
8mm is all of twenty-five ten-thousandths of an inch larger than 5/16".
*Nobody* will be able to tell the difference just by looking. Do you *really*
think your customer is going to put a caliper on the dowels to check?
More things to consider:
1) Depending on where they were sourced from, nominal 5/16" dowels may be
actual 8mm anyway -- have *you* put a caliper on the dowels available from
your suppliers to see how big they really are?
2) In my experience, the tolerances used in the manufacture of dowels are
loose enough that there will easily be several thousandths variation in
diameter from rod to rod -- and even on the *same* rod, depending on whether
you measure along, or across, the grain.
3) You could point out these facts to the customer, and ask if 5/16" is an
acceptable substitute.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
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