This may be a stupid question but what kind of router base is the best
for a router table? A fixed-base or a plunge-base? I see advantages
and disadvantages to both.
Being an every-other-weekend-or-so-warrior, I am going to be using the
table much less often than most folks here, and I don't know if that
makes a difference or not.
I only have a cheapie router table where I need to screw the router
underneath and it's a pain to change the bits. I was thinking of
purchasing a wrench that is bent to change them but am also in the
market for a new router as my old, fixed-base thing is starting to
make some interesting noises recently.
That was when I thought, maybe,a plunge router would enable me to
possibly to raise the collet enough to change bits above the hole in
the table instead of twisting every which way underneath or taking the
motor out.
I know there are oodles of neat gadgets for the router table to make
my life easier but I don't use it enough to justify the cost--at least
until the disease takes complete hold of me!
Thanks.
busbus
The more powerful, the better. My router is fixed base and 3.25 HP.
It unscrews easily from the mounted base, then I can change bits
without any hassle. Unless you have a strong-thick throat plate, a
heavy router may warp it over time. I remove my router after use.
On 3 Dec 2004 06:30:21 -0800, [email protected] (busbus) wrote:
>This may be a stupid question but what kind of router base is the best
>for a router table? A fixed-base or a plunge-base? I see advantages
>and disadvantages to both.
>
>Being an every-other-weekend-or-so-warrior, I am going to be using the
>table much less often than most folks here, and I don't know if that
>makes a difference or not.
>
>I only have a cheapie router table where I need to screw the router
>underneath and it's a pain to change the bits. I was thinking of
>purchasing a wrench that is bent to change them but am also in the
>market for a new router as my old, fixed-base thing is starting to
>make some interesting noises recently.
>
>That was when I thought, maybe,a plunge router would enable me to
>possibly to raise the collet enough to change bits above the hole in
>the table instead of twisting every which way underneath or taking the
>motor out.
>
>I know there are oodles of neat gadgets for the router table to make
>my life easier but I don't use it enough to justify the cost--at least
>until the disease takes complete hold of me!
>
>Thanks.
>
>busbus
Why? It's where the bit meets the wood that counts.
"RonB" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:U8%rd.81981$EZ.65023@okepread07...
> With that said, I think the best way to achieve accuracy is to reduce the
> number of 'movable things' between the motor and the router base (and
> tabletop). You won't achieve this by mounting a plunge router under the
> table - the plunge mechanism adds mechanical slop between these two key
> elements. My vote is for a good fixed-base router with a reliable
> depth-lock mechanism.
On Fri, 03 Dec 2004 23:41:33 GMT, Phisherman <[email protected]> wrote:
>The more powerful, the better. My router is fixed base and 3.25 HP.
>It unscrews easily from the mounted base, then I can change bits
>without any hassle. Unless you have a strong-thick throat plate, a
>heavy router may warp it over time. I remove my router after use.
>
>
Sounds like you follow Tim Allens approach.... lol
My 4 routers that sit in my router tables are all 1 Hp..one may even
be 3/4 Hp ...never really needed anything more powerful...or I should
say I never even wished for any more HP...big difference !
.
they all stay in the tables all the time...
Bob Griffiths
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> I'll take it...
>
Right after I figure out what the $%^& I did to booger it up. I have no idea
how it got jammed in there.
Here's a review of a router that seems to be very innovative. It allows the
collect to extend past the base for bit changes, so in a table you can raise
it up above the table and greatly ease the chore of changing bits. It's
also very powerful, which is a big plus if you ever want to use panel
raising bits, etc. on the router table.
http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com/reviews/tritonrouter.htm
Personally, I have a PC 7518 in my router, using a Woodpeckers Precision
Router Lift. I absolutely love it, but all told i spent something like $550
for the combination. If I were in the market today, I'd seriously consider
the triton instead and save myself over $200.
Mike
"busbus" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> This may be a stupid question but what kind of router base is the best
> for a router table? A fixed-base or a plunge-base? I see advantages
> and disadvantages to both.
>
> Being an every-other-weekend-or-so-warrior, I am going to be using the
> table much less often than most folks here, and I don't know if that
> makes a difference or not.
>
> I only have a cheapie router table where I need to screw the router
> underneath and it's a pain to change the bits. I was thinking of
> purchasing a wrench that is bent to change them but am also in the
> market for a new router as my old, fixed-base thing is starting to
> make some interesting noises recently.
>
> That was when I thought, maybe,a plunge router would enable me to
> possibly to raise the collet enough to change bits above the hole in
> the table instead of twisting every which way underneath or taking the
> motor out.
>
> I know there are oodles of neat gadgets for the router table to make
> my life easier but I don't use it enough to justify the cost--at least
> until the disease takes complete hold of me!
>
> Thanks.
>
> busbus
My two cents worth. The main advantages you can gain from a router table
are safety, particularly with small parts, and accuracy. I think that
accuracy is the main thing that makes most folks buy or build a table.
With that said, I think the best way to achieve accuracy is to reduce the
number of 'movable things' between the motor and the router base (and
tabletop). You won't achieve this by mounting a plunge router under the
table - the plunge mechanism adds mechanical slop between these two key
elements. My vote is for a good fixed-base router with a reliable
depth-lock mechanism.
BTW - there are some pretty good machines available that can provide some of
both worlds. These are the sets that combine a conventional router/base
with an interchangable plunge-base. This might be a good approach if you
are just getting started. You get:
1) Plunge Router
2) Fixed Base Router and
3) Router Table Router......
all in one case. Bosch, PC and others offer 2 to 2-1/2 HP machines that
will do a good job for all purposes. When the disease consumes you, you
will upgrade to a monster router for the table anyway.
On 3 Dec 2004 06:30:21 -0800, [email protected] (busbus) wrote:
>This may be a stupid question but what kind of router base is the best
>for a router table? A fixed-base or a plunge-base? I see advantages
>and disadvantages to both.
>
I have two regular Router tables...one on a free standing and
another mounted in the woutfeed table of my tablesaw...plus I have a
horizontal table and a Pin Router (overhead arm).... EVERY one of
these tables has its own dedicated REGULAR router always mounted..
In 3 of them I have older DeWalt 610's I think... 1 Hp units anyway!
mounted...in the overhead table (seldom used) I have a very old
Crapsman ...
I also have a DeWalt and PC plunge routers that I use for hand held
work...
Personally I just drop the enite motor down and out of the table when
I change the bits....very simple, very fast...and definately not very
hard...
I may add that I hate the table I have mounted on my tablesaw because
it is just way too low... Using it for any lenght of time gives be a
major back ache... That is the reason I installed the stand along
table (Bench dog) unit...
Just my opinions....
Bob Griffiths
"busbus" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> This may be a stupid question but what kind of router base is the best
> for a router table? A fixed-base or a plunge-base? I see advantages
> and disadvantages to both.
Me too. I suspect a plunge might be "best" - but since I was router-impaired
(only one PC 693VSPK) - I put the fixed base under the table. The "logic"
was that the plunge could do the work of a fixed and a plunge, and thus
should be accessible. The fixed could never plunge so under the table it
went.
When I boogered up the 693 plunge base, I took advantage of Amazon's Bosch
1617EVSPK for $190. Now I'll prolly leave the 690 fixed in the table, pitch
the 690 plunge.
"busbus" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> This may be a stupid question but what kind of router base is the best
> for a router table? A fixed-base or a plunge-base? I see advantages
> and disadvantages to both.
>
"Best" is a pretty subjective term. I can only tell you that I use a fixed
base under my table. I have a DeWalt 618B which came with 3 bases -
standard ears, D-handle and plunge. I took off the ears and mounted the
standard base under my insert. It's an extremely simply process to unsnap
the motor from the base and pull the entire motor out of the insert if I
need to use it freehand. I just throw it in one of the other bases, and off
I go. Works for me. The 618B (B designates the kit with the 3 bases) came
from Amazon and if I remember correctly, I paid $245.00 for it with
shipping.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On Fri, 03 Dec 2004 22:57:34 GMT, "patrick conroy"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>When I boogered up the 693 plunge base, I took advantage of Amazon's Bosch
>1617EVSPK for $190. Now I'll prolly leave the 690 fixed in the table, pitch
>the 690 plunge.
>
I'll take it...
Bob wrote:
> "Peter De Smidt" <pdesmidt*no*spam*@tds.*net*> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>I use a Milwaukee 2 hp, both in my router table and freehand. It's done
>>everything I've asked it to very well. I especially like the rubber grap
>>on the body of the router.
> Hitachi M12V.
I've used an ancient 1 HP B&D, replaced it with a PC-690, and
later replaced that with a variable speed DeWalt when I needed to
spin some large bits for making paneled garage doors. The
"liberated" PC-690 has been convenient for freehand routing.
On my CNC router table I use a variable speed (0 - 24000 RPM in
0.1 RPM steps) 5 HP Colombo. One of the things I like about it is
that there are collets available for a wide range of bit shank sizes.
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/solar.html
"busbus" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I only have a cheapie router table where I need to screw the router
> underneath and it's a pain to change the bits. I was thinking of
> purchasing a wrench that is bent to change them but am also in the
> market for a new router as my old, fixed-base thing is starting to
> make some interesting noises recently.
You asked about a router, but it seems to me that you're going to have
ongoing pain with either type, if you don't fix or replace that table. A
base plate for mounting the router is an absolute minimum to working with it
in a table. You could buy a piece of lexan or phenolic and make the plate,
then plop it into plywood, MDF or other stiff flat surface and be miles
ahead of what you've got. To change bits, you lift the router (with
baseplate attached) out of the table. The assembly sits in the table and is
held in place by the weight of the router. There are all kinds of fancy,
costly raisers that support above the table bit changes, if you want to
spend the money.
Bob
Hitachi M12V.
"Peter De Smidt" <pdesmidt*no*spam*@tds.*net*> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I use a Milwaukee 2 hp, both in my router table and freehand. It's done
> everything I've asked it to very well. I especially like the rubber grap
> on the body of the router.
>
> -Peter