Hi -
On some unfinished cherry I applied three or four coats (in steps) of pure
tung oil cut with turpentine and let the last sit for about 5-6 weeks. I
thought I'd try satin wipe-on poly (Minwax's) so followed the can's
instructions and applied three light coats over three nights. Then in
searching about the wiping marks I kept ending up with I followed
someone's tip in applying a light coat, let sit an hour and apply another
coat for overnight. Sand with #400 and repeat. I wanted 5-7 coats anyway
before applying wax.
My problem is that the wiping marks are gone but there is an uneven sheen
which I seem to be stuck with. The difference is like if you apply
brush-on poly, let it sit overnight then scuff it - it's usually mostly
non-reflective and you can see areas you missed since they reflect more.
That's what I have now. It's only noticeable with backlighting.
On the last one-two (tip from above) I wiped on circularly then a minute
or two later I wiped all the poly off. I did that a couple times. It
looked great and I let it sit overnight. But when I tip the piece in the
light now I see the uneven sheen I described. I don't know how to fix it
but if it can't be fixed, will waxing even out the sheen or just make the
difference more pronounced? I don't want to get into stripping off wax if
it won't so am asking first.
Mike
--
mikeballard at symbol verizon period net
"If your main parachute fouls, deploy your reserve. If your
reserve is also fouled you have the rest of your life to get
it straightened out."
Firstly, the sheen should be entirely on the surface. If the poly is cured
enough, the wool and spirits should do it. Actually, 400 w/d paper with
spirits and using fingers to carefully guide the pressure should also work,
and that could also be used with water and a little mild soap. Sounds like
you're dealing with an uneven surface. Only issue would be if the spots are
actually a collection of small dots in depressions your abrasive doesn't
reach. In that case, pumice and a rag would work better.
I keep mentioning this because the problem is usually getting the gloss, not
getting rid of it. If there are small depressions (maybe open pores) remaining
gloss and nothing else works, you could add more coats, cutting each back with
a firm backing until they were filled to the surface, but that'll take some
time.
GerryG
On Sun, 20 Jun 2004 23:00:38 GMT, Mike Ballard <dont_w@nt_spam.org> wrote:
>
>On Sun Jun 20, I was peacefully napping until Gerry said:
>
>> About the "gloss only" to build, IMHO, that's a matter of degree and not a
>> rule. One of those cases where you really need to know where you're going
>> before heading there. If he were building many thick coats that'd be
>> different. But for a few light coats over oil, I wouldn't go buy a 2nd can of
>> gloss. For the case given here, I don't believe you'd be any to detect any
>> difference.
>>
>> On Mike's issue, I'll guess that steel wool suggestion below will do it, and
>> that Mike's paper is just passing over those spots. Iff the spots are very
>> small, just lightly buffing with the wool alone may be enough. If that fixes
>> it but makes it uneven, then add some lubricant and do the entire item.
>>
>
>Poly can was vigorously shaken (upside down) before use per instructions.
>I used #000 steel wool for the three coats where I followed the can's
>instructions. I used #0000 for the last 2-3 coats (dealing with the wipe
>marks repeatedly) except prior to the last coat (just before posting here)
>I used #400 w/d paper and mineral spirits instead. I used the wool as it
>comes out of the package (it's folded over a couple times) and did not
>bear down on it.
>
>This is about a 7" x 10" piece where a 1.5" or so wide chamfer was created
>by planing down many degrees around all four top 'edges'. I studied the
>sheen more carefully and it looks as if it is mostly concentrated along
>these chamfers, such as would happen when sanding carefully across the top
>but not so carefully once you hit the chamfer and head down to the edge.
>These wouldn't bother me too much but there's a relatively large patch
>right on the top I have to fix.
>
>If the sheen problem (which I didn't notice earlier or created at the
>latter application(s) of poly) is underneath the final coat or two, do I
>need to sand those away - is this something wax will not 'hide'/even out?
>(this is where I didn't want to do a trial waxing only to have to figure
>out how to strip it off if it didn't work).
>
>I can't get any of the suggested lubes today (and would like to finish it
>if possible) so could I substitute MS instead?
>
>Mike
>
>> GerryG
>>
>> On Sun, 20 Jun 2004 11:02:12 GMT, B a r r y
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> >On Sun, 20 Jun 2004 05:54:04 GMT, Mike Ballard <dont_w@nt_spam.org>
>> >wrote:
>> >
>> >
>> >>My problem is that the wiping marks are gone but there is an uneven sheen
>> >>which I seem to be stuck with. The difference is like if you apply
>> >>brush-on poly, let it sit overnight then scuff it - it's usually mostly
>> >>non-reflective and you can see areas you missed since they reflect more.
>> >>That's what I have now. It's only noticeable with backlighting.
>> >
>> >Use only gloss finishes to build a finish. Apply the satin or
>> >semi-gloss stuff as only the last coat or two, or simply rub the gloss
>> >finish down to the sheen you prefer with steel wool and a wool lube.
>> >
>> >Non-gloss finishes contain a flattening agent that creates the duller
>> >look. This flattening agent can also cloud the finish if used as
>> >early coats in a build. ALWAYS completely stir a non-gloss finish,
>> >making sure all of the stuff from the bottom of the can is in
>> >suspension before using.
>> >
>> >Try wiping on another coat of completely stirred satin or rubbing the
>> >finish out with 0000 steel wool and a lubricant, such as Behlens Wool
>> >Lube, or Murphy's Oil Soap (non-spray version!)
>> >
>> >Barry
>>
>>
On Sun, 20 Jun 2004 05:54:04 GMT, Mike Ballard <dont_w@nt_spam.org>
wrote:
>My problem is that the wiping marks are gone but there is an uneven sheen
>which I seem to be stuck with. The difference is like if you apply
>brush-on poly, let it sit overnight then scuff it - it's usually mostly
>non-reflective and you can see areas you missed since they reflect more.
>That's what I have now. It's only noticeable with backlighting.
Use only gloss finishes to build a finish. Apply the satin or
semi-gloss stuff as only the last coat or two, or simply rub the gloss
finish down to the sheen you prefer with steel wool and a wool lube.
Non-gloss finishes contain a flattening agent that creates the duller
look. This flattening agent can also cloud the finish if used as
early coats in a build. ALWAYS completely stir a non-gloss finish,
making sure all of the stuff from the bottom of the can is in
suspension before using.
Try wiping on another coat of completely stirred satin or rubbing the
finish out with 0000 steel wool and a lubricant, such as Behlens Wool
Lube, or Murphy's Oil Soap (non-spray version!)
Barry
About the "gloss only" to build, IMHO, that's a matter of degree and not a
rule. One of those cases where you really need to know where you're going
before heading there. If he were building many thick coats that'd be
different. But for a few light coats over oil, I wouldn't go buy a 2nd can of
gloss. For the case given here, I don't believe you'd be any to detect any
difference.
On Mike's issue, I'll guess that steel wool suggestion below will do it, and
that Mike's paper is just passing over those spots. Iff the spots are very
small, just lightly buffing with the wool alone may be enough. If that fixes
it but makes it uneven, then add some lubricant and do the entire item.
GerryG
On Sun, 20 Jun 2004 11:02:12 GMT, B a r r y
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Sun, 20 Jun 2004 05:54:04 GMT, Mike Ballard <dont_w@nt_spam.org>
>wrote:
>
>
>>My problem is that the wiping marks are gone but there is an uneven sheen
>>which I seem to be stuck with. The difference is like if you apply
>>brush-on poly, let it sit overnight then scuff it - it's usually mostly
>>non-reflective and you can see areas you missed since they reflect more.
>>That's what I have now. It's only noticeable with backlighting.
>
>Use only gloss finishes to build a finish. Apply the satin or
>semi-gloss stuff as only the last coat or two, or simply rub the gloss
>finish down to the sheen you prefer with steel wool and a wool lube.
>
>Non-gloss finishes contain a flattening agent that creates the duller
>look. This flattening agent can also cloud the finish if used as
>early coats in a build. ALWAYS completely stir a non-gloss finish,
>making sure all of the stuff from the bottom of the can is in
>suspension before using.
>
>Try wiping on another coat of completely stirred satin or rubbing the
>finish out with 0000 steel wool and a lubricant, such as Behlens Wool
>Lube, or Murphy's Oil Soap (non-spray version!)
>
>Barry
On Sun Jun 20, I was peacefully napping until Gerry said:
> About the "gloss only" to build, IMHO, that's a matter of degree and not a
> rule. One of those cases where you really need to know where you're going
> before heading there. If he were building many thick coats that'd be
> different. But for a few light coats over oil, I wouldn't go buy a 2nd can of
> gloss. For the case given here, I don't believe you'd be any to detect any
> difference.
>
> On Mike's issue, I'll guess that steel wool suggestion below will do it, and
> that Mike's paper is just passing over those spots. Iff the spots are very
> small, just lightly buffing with the wool alone may be enough. If that fixes
> it but makes it uneven, then add some lubricant and do the entire item.
>
Poly can was vigorously shaken (upside down) before use per instructions.
I used #000 steel wool for the three coats where I followed the can's
instructions. I used #0000 for the last 2-3 coats (dealing with the wipe
marks repeatedly) except prior to the last coat (just before posting here)
I used #400 w/d paper and mineral spirits instead. I used the wool as it
comes out of the package (it's folded over a couple times) and did not
bear down on it.
This is about a 7" x 10" piece where a 1.5" or so wide chamfer was created
by planing down many degrees around all four top 'edges'. I studied the
sheen more carefully and it looks as if it is mostly concentrated along
these chamfers, such as would happen when sanding carefully across the top
but not so carefully once you hit the chamfer and head down to the edge.
These wouldn't bother me too much but there's a relatively large patch
right on the top I have to fix.
If the sheen problem (which I didn't notice earlier or created at the
latter application(s) of poly) is underneath the final coat or two, do I
need to sand those away - is this something wax will not 'hide'/even out?
(this is where I didn't want to do a trial waxing only to have to figure
out how to strip it off if it didn't work).
I can't get any of the suggested lubes today (and would like to finish it
if possible) so could I substitute MS instead?
Mike
> GerryG
>
> On Sun, 20 Jun 2004 11:02:12 GMT, B a r r y
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >On Sun, 20 Jun 2004 05:54:04 GMT, Mike Ballard <dont_w@nt_spam.org>
> >wrote:
> >
> >
> >>My problem is that the wiping marks are gone but there is an uneven sheen
> >>which I seem to be stuck with. The difference is like if you apply
> >>brush-on poly, let it sit overnight then scuff it - it's usually mostly
> >>non-reflective and you can see areas you missed since they reflect more.
> >>That's what I have now. It's only noticeable with backlighting.
> >
> >Use only gloss finishes to build a finish. Apply the satin or
> >semi-gloss stuff as only the last coat or two, or simply rub the gloss
> >finish down to the sheen you prefer with steel wool and a wool lube.
> >
> >Non-gloss finishes contain a flattening agent that creates the duller
> >look. This flattening agent can also cloud the finish if used as
> >early coats in a build. ALWAYS completely stir a non-gloss finish,
> >making sure all of the stuff from the bottom of the can is in
> >suspension before using.
> >
> >Try wiping on another coat of completely stirred satin or rubbing the
> >finish out with 0000 steel wool and a lubricant, such as Behlens Wool
> >Lube, or Murphy's Oil Soap (non-spray version!)
> >
> >Barry
>
>
--
mikeballard at symbol verizon period net
"If your main parachute fouls, deploy your reserve. If your
reserve is also fouled you have the rest of your life to get
it straightened out."
How were you sanding the wood? With paper? With a wood block or cushioned
block? Are these high sheen areas very small (like large dots) or larger? Did
you mix the poly before you applied it? Satin poly contains a deglosser that
will settle to the bottom and not be effective unless it's mixed before you
apply it.
GerryG
On Sun, 20 Jun 2004 05:54:04 GMT, Mike Ballard <dont_w@nt_spam.org> wrote:
>
>Hi -
>
>On some unfinished cherry I applied three or four coats (in steps) of pure
>tung oil cut with turpentine and let the last sit for about 5-6 weeks. I
>thought I'd try satin wipe-on poly (Minwax's) so followed the can's
>instructions and applied three light coats over three nights. Then in
>searching about the wiping marks I kept ending up with I followed
>someone's tip in applying a light coat, let sit an hour and apply another
>coat for overnight. Sand with #400 and repeat. I wanted 5-7 coats anyway
>before applying wax.
>
>My problem is that the wiping marks are gone but there is an uneven sheen
>which I seem to be stuck with. The difference is like if you apply
>brush-on poly, let it sit overnight then scuff it - it's usually mostly
>non-reflective and you can see areas you missed since they reflect more.
>That's what I have now. It's only noticeable with backlighting.
>
>On the last one-two (tip from above) I wiped on circularly then a minute
>or two later I wiped all the poly off. I did that a couple times. It
>looked great and I let it sit overnight. But when I tip the piece in the
>light now I see the uneven sheen I described. I don't know how to fix it
>but if it can't be fixed, will waxing even out the sheen or just make the
>difference more pronounced? I don't want to get into stripping off wax if
>it won't so am asking first.
>
>Mike