I'm going to be working on a project where we will be
splitting many sonotubes ranging in diameter from 8"
to 16" and in length from 12' to 16'. We need to
rip them into perfect (as much as possible) half-rounds.
I'm thinking that there must be a jig I can build for
my tablesaw that will allow the tubes to be fed through
the blade that will make a very straight cut. A V notch
would keep the tube centered on the blade, but I
can't think of a way to make sure the cut doesn't
wander radially from one end to the other. The half
rounds are going to be placed on walls and need to
be super flat and straight.
One idea was to snap a chalk line along the length of
one side of the tube. Then, on the jig, have an
arm that extends over the top of the tube that has
an indicator on it showing the blade position. As
the tube is fed through the blade, keep the chalk
line on that indicator. Then flip the tube over,
tape the cut just made so the tube doesn't fall
apart as the second cut is made. Run the tube
through again, this time using the first cut as
the guide line on the indicator.
Here's a picture of that idea:
http://www.proudviews.com/TubeRipper.jpg
Would this work or is there a better way to do
this?
-- TRW
_______________________________________
t i m . w i t o r t
_______________________________________
I would check to see if the Sona tube makers can rip them first. If
not I would use it as an excuss to buy a Rikon 14" bandsaw, and for
the largest or all if the excuss idea didnt work is the use a jig saw
with straight edge clamped. . Look to see if theres a co-op workshop
to rent shop space and use there bandsaw.Where are located maybe
someone knows of shop space
> "Tim Witort" wrote:
> > I'm going to be working on a project where we will be
> > splitting many sonotubes ranging in diameter from 8"
> > to 16" and in length from 12' to 16'. =A0We need to
> > rip them into perfect (as much as possible) half-rounds.
>
> > I'm thinking that there must be a jig I can build for
> > my tablesaw that will allow the tubes to be fed through
> > the blade that will make a very straight cut.
What you want to do is build a v-shaped jig like you mentioned, and
directly behind the blade you'll build in a "splitter". This is
straight piece of wood the thickness of your saw blade that will serve
to keep the kerf you just cut from closing up, and will also prevent
the sonotube from rotating once you've started your cut. The only
issue is to be careful you make the second cut 180 degrees around from
the first. Good luck!
JP
Tim,
Build a 3-sided box that will hold the sonotube (only need 1/2 the diameter
on the box top and bottom). Make the box a bit longer than the sonotube and
install a stop inside on both ends. Clamp the sonotube to the box on the
center of the full-length side so the clamps clear the fence .
Slide the box (full length side against the table saw fence) and cut one
side at a time. This will give you a smooth edge, repeatable cuts, and a
safe means to handle the sonotube.
After cutting lengthwise, remove from the box and repeat.
You will have to flip the box and tube to make the second cut, but with two
people, you should not have any issues.
To allow easier tracking, you might glue a guide strip on both of the short
sides that sets in the miter slot on the table saw ... thus eliminating the
fence (and the potential interference with the clamps), and ensuring you
always track the entire cut.
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Rick
On Jun 6, 7:31=A0pm, [email protected] (Tim Witort) wrote:
> Robatoy seemed to utter in news:ac054c7b-e4ab-4139-bb35-8cea0a5f8ee9@
> 79g2000hsk.googlegroups.com:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Jun 5, 5:18=A0pm, [email protected] (Tim Witort) wrote:
> >> I'm going to be working on a project where we will be
> >> splitting many sonotubes ranging in diameter from 8"
> >> to 16" and in length from 12' to 16'. =A0We need to
> >> rip them into perfect (as much as possible) half-rounds.
>
> >> I'm thinking that there must be a jig I can build for
> >> my tablesaw that will allow the tubes to be fed through
> >> the blade that will make a very straight cut. =A0A V notch
> >> would keep the tube centered on the blade, but I
> >> can't think of a way to make sure the cut doesn't
> >> wander radially from one end to the other. =A0The half
> >> rounds are going to be placed on walls and need to
> >> be super flat and straight.
>
> >> One idea was to snap a chalk line along the length of
> >> one side of the tube. =A0Then, on the jig, have an
> >> arm that extends over the top of the tube that has
> >> an indicator on it showing the blade position. =A0As
> >> the tube is fed through the blade, keep the chalk
> >> line on that indicator. =A0Then flip the tube over,
> >> tape the cut just made so the tube doesn't fall
> >> apart as the second cut is made. =A0Run the tube
> >> through again, this time using the first cut as
> >> the guide line on the indicator.
>
> >> Here's a picture of that idea:http://www.proudviews.com/TubeRipper.jpg
>
> >> Would this work or is there a better way to do this?
>
> >> -- TRW
> >> _______________________________________
> >> t i m =A0. =A0w i t o r t
> >> _______________________________________
>
> > How many of those cuts do you have to make?
> > I have thought of a jig, but the quantities will have make it all
> > worth it.
>
> Roughly 100 Sonotubes will need to be split for this project.
I'm curious - what are you making?
JP
On Jun 5, 5:18=A0pm, [email protected] (Tim Witort) wrote:
> I'm going to be working on a project where we will be
> splitting many sonotubes ranging in diameter from 8"
> to 16" and in length from 12' to 16'. =A0We need to
> rip them into perfect (as much as possible) half-rounds.
>
> I'm thinking that there must be a jig I can build for
> my tablesaw that will allow the tubes to be fed through
> the blade that will make a very straight cut. =A0A V notch
> would keep the tube centered on the blade, but I
> can't think of a way to make sure the cut doesn't
> wander radially from one end to the other. =A0The half
> rounds are going to be placed on walls and need to
> be super flat and straight.
>
> One idea was to snap a chalk line along the length of
> one side of the tube. =A0Then, on the jig, have an
> arm that extends over the top of the tube that has
> an indicator on it showing the blade position. =A0As
> the tube is fed through the blade, keep the chalk
> line on that indicator. =A0Then flip the tube over,
> tape the cut just made so the tube doesn't fall
> apart as the second cut is made. =A0Run the tube
> through again, this time using the first cut as
> the guide line on the indicator.
>
> Here's a picture of that idea:http://www.proudviews.com/TubeRipper.jpg
>
> Would this work or is there a better way to do
> this?
>
> -- TRW
> _______________________________________
> t i m =A0. =A0w i t o r t
> _______________________________________
I think your ideal is the way to go, but instead of wedges use tall
fences on either side. I think you'll find the wedges would have to be
very big in order to "wedge" the tube. Where as the tall fence will
hold tube in place.
The jig in your picture looks a lot like a radial arm saw except that
instead of a pointer indicating the location of the blade down below, you'd
have the actual blade that you could see up above. There will always be
people who freak out at the thought of ripping with a RAS, but the idea is
so crazy it just might work.
Lee
--
To e-mail, replace "bucketofspam" with "dleegordon"
_________________________________
Lee Gordon
http://www.leegordonproductions.com
<< If I had a RAS, I might
consider that one. My only saw options are tablesaw,
skill saw, jig saw, and recip saw. Seemed the tablesaw
was my best option for getting a clean, straight cut.>>
Depending on how long the tubes are, here's one more option. Build a
rectangular frame with wedges running along the bottom of the long sides, so
you can clamp the fixture to the sonotube and run a router with a straight
cutting bit from one end to the other. That would give you a clean cut and
allow you to see what you were doing.
Lee
--
To e-mail, replace "bucketofspam" with "dleegordon"
_________________________________
Lee Gordon
http://www.leegordonproductions.com
Tim Witort wrote:
> I'm going to be working on a project where we will be
> splitting many sonotubes ranging in diameter from 8"
> to 16" and in length from 12' to 16'. We need to
> rip them into perfect (as much as possible) half-rounds.
>
> I'm thinking that there must be a jig I can build for
> my tablesaw that will allow the tubes to be fed through
> the blade that will make a very straight cut. A V notch
> would keep the tube centered on the blade, but I
> can't think of a way to make sure the cut doesn't
> wander radially from one end to the other. The half
> rounds are going to be placed on walls and need to
> be super flat and straight.
>
> One idea was to snap a chalk line along the length of
> one side of the tube. Then, on the jig, have an
> arm that extends over the top of the tube that has
> an indicator on it showing the blade position. As
> the tube is fed through the blade, keep the chalk
> line on that indicator. Then flip the tube over,
> tape the cut just made so the tube doesn't fall
> apart as the second cut is made. Run the tube
> through again, this time using the first cut as
> the guide line on the indicator.
The problem is the lack of a reference face.
You make a long-plank-with-V-Seats and clamp
it to the tube. You now have a composite
object with a nice reference face to run against the fence.
Cut, flip end-for-end (so the reference is still against the face),
do the other cut.
BugBear
charlie seemed to utter in news:[email protected]:
>
> "Tim Witort" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> I'm going to be working on a project where we will be
>> splitting many sonotubes ranging in diameter from 8"
>> to 16" and in length from 12' to 16'. We need to
>> rip them into perfect (as much as possible) half-rounds.
>>
>> I'm thinking that there must be a jig I can build for
>> my tablesaw that will allow the tubes to be fed through
>> the blade that will make a very straight cut. A V notch
>> would keep the tube centered on the blade, but I
>> can't think of a way to make sure the cut doesn't
>> wander radially from one end to the other. The half
>> rounds are going to be placed on walls and need to
>> be super flat and straight.
>>
>> One idea was to snap a chalk line along the length of
>> one side of the tube. Then, on the jig, have an
>> arm that extends over the top of the tube that has
>> an indicator on it showing the blade position. As
>> the tube is fed through the blade, keep the chalk
>> line on that indicator. Then flip the tube over,
>> tape the cut just made so the tube doesn't fall
>> apart as the second cut is made. Run the tube
>> through again, this time using the first cut as
>> the guide line on the indicator.
>>
>> Here's a picture of that idea:
>> http://www.proudviews.com/TubeRipper.jpg
>>
>> Would this work or is there a better way to do this?
>>
>> -- TRW
>> _______________________________________
>> t i m . w i t o r t
>> _______________________________________
>
> can you find a large band saw?
Not *that* large! The only band saws I know that can
cut 16" material are huge industrial machines.
-- TRW
_______________________________________
t i m . w i t o r t
_______________________________________
Lew Hodgett seemed to utter in news:dZY1k.11199$%Z1.1820@trnddc05:
>
> "Tim Witort" wrote:
>
>> I'm going to be working on a project where we will be
>> splitting many sonotubes ranging in diameter from 8"
>> to 16" and in length from 12' to 16'. We need to
>> rip them into perfect (as much as possible) half-rounds.
>>
>> I'm thinking that there must be a jig I can build for
>> my tablesaw that will allow the tubes to be fed through
>> the blade that will make a very straight cut.
> <snip>
>
> You don't want to go down the table saw road.
>
> Might consider the following:
>
> Build a dedicated jig for each tube size that will clamp the tube in
> position and guide a circular saw to make the first cut.
>
> After first cut rotate 180 degrees and locate in final position with a
> 2nd jig to insure accurate 2nd cut.
>
> Moving the cutting blade rather than moving the tube will make the job
> a whole lot easier, IMHO.
>
> Lew
Thanks for the idea, I'll have to think about that one.
-- TRW
_______________________________________
t i m . w i t o r t
_______________________________________
Jay Pique seemed to utter in news:408ad1f8-e6bd-4380-b1aa-
[email protected]:
>> "Tim Witort" wrote:
>> > I'm going to be working on a project where we will be
>> > splitting many sonotubes ranging in diameter from 8"
>> > to 16" and in length from 12' to 16'. We need to
>> > rip them into perfect (as much as possible) half-rounds.
>>
>> > I'm thinking that there must be a jig I can build for
>> > my tablesaw that will allow the tubes to be fed through
>> > the blade that will make a very straight cut.
>
> What you want to do is build a v-shaped jig like you mentioned, and
> directly behind the blade you'll build in a "splitter". This is
> straight piece of wood the thickness of your saw blade that will serve
> to keep the kerf you just cut from closing up, and will also prevent
> the sonotube from rotating once you've started your cut. The only
> issue is to be careful you make the second cut 180 degrees around from
> the first. Good luck!
>
> JP
Yeah, I thought about having a 4' long splitter going
out the back of the saw - maybe 1/8" aluminum L bar.
That would alow the kerf to ride on the splitter
like a fence. Thanks for the idea, Jay.
-- TRW
_______________________________________
t i m . w i t o r t
_______________________________________
Robatoy seemed to utter in news:ac054c7b-e4ab-4139-bb35-8cea0a5f8ee9@
79g2000hsk.googlegroups.com:
> On Jun 5, 5:18 pm, [email protected] (Tim Witort) wrote:
>> I'm going to be working on a project where we will be
>> splitting many sonotubes ranging in diameter from 8"
>> to 16" and in length from 12' to 16'. We need to
>> rip them into perfect (as much as possible) half-rounds.
>>
>> I'm thinking that there must be a jig I can build for
>> my tablesaw that will allow the tubes to be fed through
>> the blade that will make a very straight cut. A V notch
>> would keep the tube centered on the blade, but I
>> can't think of a way to make sure the cut doesn't
>> wander radially from one end to the other. The half
>> rounds are going to be placed on walls and need to
>> be super flat and straight.
>>
>> One idea was to snap a chalk line along the length of
>> one side of the tube. Then, on the jig, have an
>> arm that extends over the top of the tube that has
>> an indicator on it showing the blade position. As
>> the tube is fed through the blade, keep the chalk
>> line on that indicator. Then flip the tube over,
>> tape the cut just made so the tube doesn't fall
>> apart as the second cut is made. Run the tube
>> through again, this time using the first cut as
>> the guide line on the indicator.
>>
>> Here's a picture of that idea:http://www.proudviews.com/TubeRipper.jpg
>>
>> Would this work or is there a better way to do this?
>>
>> -- TRW
>> _______________________________________
>> t i m . w i t o r t
>> _______________________________________
>
> How many of those cuts do you have to make?
> I have thought of a jig, but the quantities will have make it all
> worth it.
Roughly 100 Sonotubes will need to be split for this project.
-- TRW
_______________________________________
t i m . w i t o r t
_______________________________________
jim seemed to utter in news:[email protected]:
> use your bandsaw it will be less dangerous and give you a smo
> tther cut
I don't have access to a bandsaw with a 16" cutting height.
Heck, I don't even have access to a bandsaw with an 8"
cutting height! The big commercial bandsaws can do 16",
but that's not an option on this project.
-- TRW
_______________________________________
t i m . w i t o r t
_______________________________________
Lee Gordon seemed to utter in
news:[email protected]:
> The jig in your picture looks a lot like a radial arm saw except that
> instead of a pointer indicating the location of the blade down below,
> you'd have the actual blade that you could see up above. There will
> always be people who freak out at the thought of ripping with a RAS,
> but the idea is so crazy it just might work.
>
> Lee
>
Yeah, I see the resemblance. If I had a RAS, I might
consider that one. My only saw options are tablesaw,
skill saw, jig saw, and recip saw. Seemed the tablesaw
was my best option for getting a clean, straight cut.
-- TRW
_______________________________________
t i m . w i t o r t
_______________________________________
Jay Pique seemed to utter in
news:4b365bd7-e156-4df1-8d89-056e9190076b@p25g2000hsf.googlegroups.com:
> On Jun 6, 7:31 pm, [email protected] (Tim Witort) wrote:
>> Robatoy seemed to utter in news:ac054c7b-e4ab-4139-bb35-8cea0a5f8ee9@
>> 79g2000hsk.googlegroups.com:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> > On Jun 5, 5:18 pm, [email protected] (Tim Witort) wrote:
>> >> I'm going to be working on a project where we will be
>> >> splitting many sonotubes ranging in diameter from 8"
>> >> to 16" and in length from 12' to 16'. We need to
>> >> rip them into perfect (as much as possible) half-rounds.
>>
>> >> I'm thinking that there must be a jig I can build for
>> >> my tablesaw that will allow the tubes to be fed through
>> >> the blade that will make a very straight cut. A V notch
>> >> would keep the tube centered on the blade, but I
>> >> can't think of a way to make sure the cut doesn't
>> >> wander radially from one end to the other. The half
>> >> rounds are going to be placed on walls and need to
>> >> be super flat and straight.
>>
>> >> One idea was to snap a chalk line along the length of
>> >> one side of the tube. Then, on the jig, have an
>> >> arm that extends over the top of the tube that has
>> >> an indicator on it showing the blade position. As
>> >> the tube is fed through the blade, keep the chalk
>> >> line on that indicator. Then flip the tube over,
>> >> tape the cut just made so the tube doesn't fall
>> >> apart as the second cut is made. Run the tube
>> >> through again, this time using the first cut as
>> >> the guide line on the indicator.
>>
>> >> Here's a picture of that
>> >> idea:http://www.proudviews.com/TubeRipper.jpg
>>
>> >> Would this work or is there a better way to do this?
>>
>> >> -- TRW
>> >> _______________________________________
>> >> t i m . w i t o r t
>> >> _______________________________________
>>
>> > How many of those cuts do you have to make?
>> > I have thought of a jig, but the quantities will have make it all
>> > worth it.
>>
>> Roughly 100 Sonotubes will need to be split for this project.
>
>
> I'm curious - what are you making?
We're doing an acoustic renovation on an auditorium.
The half-tubes need to be placed on the walls at
specific locations to tune the acoustics of the room.
-- TRW
_______________________________________
t i m . w i t o r t
_______________________________________
Rick M seemed to utter in news:[email protected]:
> Tim,
>
> Build a 3-sided box that will hold the sonotube (only need 1/2 the
> diameter on the box top and bottom). Make the box a bit longer than the
> sonotube and install a stop inside on both ends. Clamp the sonotube to
> the box on the center of the full-length side so the clamps clear the
> fence .
>
> Slide the box (full length side against the table saw fence) and cut
> one side at a time. This will give you a smooth edge, repeatable cuts,
> and a safe means to handle the sonotube.
>
> After cutting lengthwise, remove from the box and repeat.
>
> You will have to flip the box and tube to make the second cut, but with
> two people, you should not have any issues.
>
> To allow easier tracking, you might glue a guide strip on both of the
> short sides that sets in the miter slot on the table saw ... thus
> eliminating the fence (and the potential interference with the clamps),
> and ensuring you always track the entire cut.
>
> Hope this helps.
Good idea, Rick. I think I'm starting to get a good
design in mind now...
-- TRW
_______________________________________
t i m . w i t o r t
_______________________________________
Tim Witort seemed to utter in news:Xns9AB85EDE98708timwitortwrotethis@
216.196.97.131:
> Jay Pique seemed to utter in
> news:4b365bd7-e156-4df1-8d89-056e9190076b@p25g2000hsf.googlegroups.com:
>
>> On Jun 6, 7:31 pm, [email protected] (Tim Witort) wrote:
>>> Robatoy seemed to utter in news:ac054c7b-e4ab-4139-bb35-8cea0a5f8ee9@
>>> 79g2000hsk.googlegroups.com:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> > On Jun 5, 5:18 pm, [email protected] (Tim Witort) wrote:
>>> >> I'm going to be working on a project where we will be
>>> >> splitting many sonotubes ranging in diameter from 8"
>>> >> to 16" and in length from 12' to 16'. We need to
>>> >> rip them into perfect (as much as possible) half-rounds.
>>>
>>> >> I'm thinking that there must be a jig I can build for
>>> >> my tablesaw that will allow the tubes to be fed through
>>> >> the blade that will make a very straight cut. A V notch
>>> >> would keep the tube centered on the blade, but I
>>> >> can't think of a way to make sure the cut doesn't
>>> >> wander radially from one end to the other. The half
>>> >> rounds are going to be placed on walls and need to
>>> >> be super flat and straight.
>>>
>>> >> One idea was to snap a chalk line along the length of
>>> >> one side of the tube. Then, on the jig, have an
>>> >> arm that extends over the top of the tube that has
>>> >> an indicator on it showing the blade position. As
>>> >> the tube is fed through the blade, keep the chalk
>>> >> line on that indicator. Then flip the tube over,
>>> >> tape the cut just made so the tube doesn't fall
>>> >> apart as the second cut is made. Run the tube
>>> >> through again, this time using the first cut as
>>> >> the guide line on the indicator.
>>>
>>> >> Here's a picture of that
>>> >> idea:http://www.proudviews.com/TubeRipper.jpg
>>>
>>> >> Would this work or is there a better way to do this?
>>>
>>> >> -- TRW
>>> >> _______________________________________
>>> >> t i m . w i t o r t
>>> >> _______________________________________
>>>
>>> > How many of those cuts do you have to make?
>>> > I have thought of a jig, but the quantities will have make it all
>>> > worth it.
>>>
>>> Roughly 100 Sonotubes will need to be split for this project.
>>
>>
>> I'm curious - what are you making?
>
> We're doing an acoustic renovation on an auditorium.
> The half-tubes need to be placed on the walls at
> specific locations to tune the acoustics of the room.
I settled on a design and we have almost finished splitting
all of the Sonotubes. The jig I ended up making was a 16'
long piece of plywood 18" wide as the jig base. Onto this
was attached a movable "fence" that also went the 16' length.
For the 16" diameter tubes, the jig fence was placed 8"
from the edge of the jig base. The tubes were clamped to
the jig fence at both ends, then the jig was run through
the tablesaw with the saw fence set at 18". This gave us
very straight, quick cuts. Then we rolled the tube 180
degrees, used a framing square to confirm that the first
cut was rotated directly above the next cut. Clamped again
and ran through the second cut. I used a feather board
to keep the jig against the saw fence and roller stands
on the infeed and outfeed to support the jig.
Thanks for everyone's input!
-- TRW
_______________________________________
t i m . w i t o r t
_______________________________________
On Jun 5, 5:18=A0pm, [email protected] (Tim Witort) wrote:
> I'm going to be working on a project where we will be
> splitting many sonotubes ranging in diameter from 8"
> to 16" and in length from 12' to 16'. =A0We need to
> rip them into perfect (as much as possible) half-rounds.
>
> I'm thinking that there must be a jig I can build for
> my tablesaw that will allow the tubes to be fed through
> the blade that will make a very straight cut. =A0A V notch
> would keep the tube centered on the blade, but I
> can't think of a way to make sure the cut doesn't
> wander radially from one end to the other. =A0The half
> rounds are going to be placed on walls and need to
> be super flat and straight.
>
> One idea was to snap a chalk line along the length of
> one side of the tube. =A0Then, on the jig, have an
> arm that extends over the top of the tube that has
> an indicator on it showing the blade position. =A0As
> the tube is fed through the blade, keep the chalk
> line on that indicator. =A0Then flip the tube over,
> tape the cut just made so the tube doesn't fall
> apart as the second cut is made. =A0Run the tube
> through again, this time using the first cut as
> the guide line on the indicator.
>
> Here's a picture of that idea:http://www.proudviews.com/TubeRipper.jpg
>
> Would this work or is there a better way to do
> this?
>
> -- TRW
> _______________________________________
> t i m =A0. =A0w i t o r t
> _______________________________________
How many of those cuts do you have to make?
I have thought of a jig, but the quantities will have make it all
worth it.
The simplest jig would be a piece of plywood cut to length and ripped
the exact diameter of the tube. Firmly attach to the tube and run the
plywood against the fence. Flip the assembly end for end for the second
cut.
You may need a helper and some type of feather board to hold the plywood
and tube tight to the fence.
"Tim Witort" wrote:
> I'm going to be working on a project where we will be
> splitting many sonotubes ranging in diameter from 8"
> to 16" and in length from 12' to 16'. We need to
> rip them into perfect (as much as possible) half-rounds.
>
> I'm thinking that there must be a jig I can build for
> my tablesaw that will allow the tubes to be fed through
> the blade that will make a very straight cut.
<snip>
You don't want to go down the table saw road.
Might consider the following:
Build a dedicated jig for each tube size that will clamp the tube in
position and guide a circular saw to make the first cut.
After first cut rotate 180 degrees and locate in final position with a
2nd jig to insure accurate 2nd cut.
Moving the cutting blade rather than moving the tube will make the job
a whole lot easier, IMHO.
Lew
"Tim Witort" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm going to be working on a project where we will be
> splitting many sonotubes ranging in diameter from 8"
> to 16" and in length from 12' to 16'. We need to
> rip them into perfect (as much as possible) half-rounds.
>
> I'm thinking that there must be a jig I can build for
> my tablesaw that will allow the tubes to be fed through
> the blade that will make a very straight cut. A V notch
> would keep the tube centered on the blade, but I
> can't think of a way to make sure the cut doesn't
> wander radially from one end to the other. The half
> rounds are going to be placed on walls and need to
> be super flat and straight.
>
> One idea was to snap a chalk line along the length of
> one side of the tube. Then, on the jig, have an
> arm that extends over the top of the tube that has
> an indicator on it showing the blade position. As
> the tube is fed through the blade, keep the chalk
> line on that indicator. Then flip the tube over,
> tape the cut just made so the tube doesn't fall
> apart as the second cut is made. Run the tube
> through again, this time using the first cut as
> the guide line on the indicator.
>
> Here's a picture of that idea:
> http://www.proudviews.com/TubeRipper.jpg
>
> Would this work or is there a better way to do
> this?
>
> -- TRW
> _______________________________________
> t i m . w i t o r t
> _______________________________________
can you find a large band saw?
On Fri, 06 Jun 2008 18:31:12 -0500, [email protected] (Tim
Witort) wrote:
>Roughly 100 Sonotubes will need to be split for this project.
For 100 tubes, a jig is definitely worth it.
What about a foam insert? It could be solid or a series of disks.
-- or --
A "case" that would guide a circular or jig saw along the top, or a
table saw along the bottom? You could tape the first cut together to
do the second.
---------------------------------------------
** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
---------------------------------------------
use your bandsaw it will be less dangerous and give you a smo
tther cut
"Tim Witort" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm going to be working on a project where we will be
> splitting many sonotubes ranging in diameter from 8"
> to 16" and in length from 12' to 16'. We need to
> rip them into perfect (as much as possible) half-rounds.
>
> I'm thinking that there must be a jig I can build for
> my tablesaw that will allow the tubes to be fed through
> the blade that will make a very straight cut. A V notch
> would keep the tube centered on the blade, but I
> can't think of a way to make sure the cut doesn't
> wander radially from one end to the other. The half
> rounds are going to be placed on walls and need to
> be super flat and straight.
>
> One idea was to snap a chalk line along the length of
> one side of the tube. Then, on the jig, have an
> arm that extends over the top of the tube that has
> an indicator on it showing the blade position. As
> the tube is fed through the blade, keep the chalk
> line on that indicator. Then flip the tube over,
> tape the cut just made so the tube doesn't fall
> apart as the second cut is made. Run the tube
> through again, this time using the first cut as
> the guide line on the indicator.
>
> Here's a picture of that idea:
> http://www.proudviews.com/TubeRipper.jpg
>
> Would this work or is there a better way to do
> this?
>
> -- TRW
> _______________________________________
> t i m . w i t o r t
> _______________________________________
On Thu, 05 Jun 2008 16:18:45 -0500, [email protected] (Tim
Witort) wrote:
>I'm going to be working on a project where we will be
>splitting many sonotubes ranging in diameter from 8"
>to 16" and in length from 12' to 16'. We need to
>rip them into perfect (as much as possible) half-rounds.
>
>I'm thinking that there must be a jig I can build for
>my tablesaw that will allow the tubes to be fed through
>the blade that will make a very straight cut. A V notch
>would keep the tube centered on the blade, but I
>can't think of a way to make sure the cut doesn't
>wander radially from one end to the other. The half
>rounds are going to be placed on walls and need to
>be super flat and straight.
>
>One idea was to snap a chalk line along the length of
>one side of the tube. Then, on the jig, have an
>arm that extends over the top of the tube that has
>an indicator on it showing the blade position. As
>the tube is fed through the blade, keep the chalk
>line on that indicator. Then flip the tube over,
>tape the cut just made so the tube doesn't fall
>apart as the second cut is made. Run the tube
>through again, this time using the first cut as
>the guide line on the indicator.
>
>Here's a picture of that idea:
>http://www.proudviews.com/TubeRipper.jpg
>
>Would this work or is there a better way to do
>this?
>
>-- TRW
>_______________________________________
>t i m . w i t o r t
>_______________________________________
Tim:
I'd fix the tubes up onto a section of extension ladder that was
resting on as many sawhorses as you would need to maintain a level
line.
Then I'd cut two square pieces of ply to the dimensions of the
diameter of the largest Sonotube (so that it could be recut to the
smaller diameter when needed). I'd make a mark at the centerline of
the top edge and use this to lay out a chalk line on the Sonotube.
Then I'd hotmelt a piece of ply to the base of your circular saw and
hot melt a couple of blocks to that, so that the saw would bear on
three points - the cut line and the two blocks.
Then I'd cut to within a sixteenth of the inside face of the tube,
flip it over and do the same trick 180 degrees away.
I'd then cut through the remaining sixteenth with a utility knife and
clean up the edge with a sander.
Just my take on it, you understand.
Then
Regards,
Tom
Thos.J.Watson - Cabinetmaker
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet
www.home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1
You've got the right idea with the V-jig. You can make it large enough
to handle your largest stock and it will work for all of them.
Here's a trick to keep the tube from twisting...
Make the jig extend at least a foot past the blade on your tablesaw,
just run it through the saw to create a kerf, then us a slim piece of
metal standing in the kerf behind the saw. The kerf in the tube will
go on either side of the metal and prevent the tube from twisting.
I use a smaller setup just like this to split dowels.
Jack
On Thu, 05 Jun 2008 16:18:45 -0500, [email protected] (Tim
Witort) wrote:
>I'm going to be working on a project where we will be
>splitting many sonotubes ranging in diameter from 8"
>to 16" and in length from 12' to 16'. We need to
>rip them into perfect (as much as possible) half-rounds.
>
>I'm thinking that there must be a jig I can build for
>my tablesaw that will allow the tubes to be fed through
>the blade that will make a very straight cut. A V notch
>would keep the tube centered on the blade, but I
>can't think of a way to make sure the cut doesn't
>wander radially from one end to the other. The half
>rounds are going to be placed on walls and need to
>be super flat and straight.
>
>One idea was to snap a chalk line along the length of
>one side of the tube. Then, on the jig, have an
>arm that extends over the top of the tube that has
>an indicator on it showing the blade position. As
>the tube is fed through the blade, keep the chalk
>line on that indicator. Then flip the tube over,
>tape the cut just made so the tube doesn't fall
>apart as the second cut is made. Run the tube
>through again, this time using the first cut as
>the guide line on the indicator.
>
>Here's a picture of that idea:
>http://www.proudviews.com/TubeRipper.jpg
>
>Would this work or is there a better way to do
>this?
>
>-- TRW
>_______________________________________
>t i m . w i t o r t
>_______________________________________