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I want to make a barrel shaped planter, with 12 straight sides out of 4 =
by 1 inch timber. The height of the planter is obviously variable =
depending on the length the 4 by 1's are cut.
I can mitre the edges, but my problem is what is the best way to join =
them? Bearing in mind the pressure will be from inside to out, thus =
always trying to force the joints apart. I do not want to put any =
banding round the planter and wondered if anyone can suggest a better =
alternative to biscuit joints.
Oldun
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<DIV>I want to make a barrel shaped planter, with 12 straight sides out =
of 4 by=20
1 inch timber. The height of the planter is obviously variable depending =
on the=20
length the 4 by 1's are cut.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I can mitre the edges, but my problem is what is the best way to =
join them?=20
Bearing in mind the pressure will be from inside to out, thus always =
trying to=20
force the joints apart. I do not want to put any banding round the =
planter and=20
wondered if anyone can suggest a better alternative to biscuit =
joints.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Oldun</DIV></BODY></HTML>
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Your suggestion brings forth the question "Is there a source for name
to visual aid for joints?". Haven't looked in Tage Frid Teaches
Woodworking yet but intend to (if I can remember).
On Wed, 20 Jul 2005 17:25:41 -0500, "Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Don't discount the birds mouth joint for your planter.
Oldun wrote:
> I want to make a barrel shaped planter, with 12 straight sides out of 4 by 1 inch timber. The height of the planter is obviously variable depending on the length the 4 by 1's are cut.
>
> I can mitre the edges, but my problem is what is the best way to join them? Bearing in mind the pressure will be from inside to out, thus always trying to force the joints apart. I do not want to put any banding round the planter and wondered if anyone can suggest a better alternative to biscuit joints.
>
> Oldun
unless the wooden parts are decorative only and the plants/dirt are
held in a separate inside container you are going to need bands of some
sort.
The birds mouth joints don't offer a smooth transition on the outer
face. They are usually used when the piece will also be shaped via
turning or planing. They are not that strong from an internal pressure
resitance point of view either.
You might consider splines\loose tennons. After you miter the edges of
the slats, rip an 1/8th inch dado down the entire length of each edge
about 3/4" deep. Then make 1/8" x 1 1/4 strips (I would use White Oak)
and glue them in using waterproof glue.
For added strength you could go for wider dados\splines, I just like
1/8" because of the obvious ability to do it with the TS blade. You
could also add screws or dowels from the inside to really lock in the
splines.
Oldun wrote:
>
> Part 1.1 Type: Plain Text (text/plain)
> Encoding: quoted-printable
Please put message text inline next time...
Asking about barrel-building...
Which prompts me to ask--anyone else get Roy's show last weekend w/ the
guy from NY (whose name, unfortunately I didn't get as I didn't get to
see either the beginning nor the complete end of the show) who's a
cooper? Demonstrated making a small bucket--really nice!
Oldun wrote:
>
> "Duane Bozarth" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Oldun wrote:
> >>
> >> Part 1.1 Type: Plain Text (text/plain)
> >> Encoding: quoted-printable
> >
> > Please put message text inline next time...
> >
> Could you please explain what you mean by the above.
From: "Oldun" <[email protected]>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: secure joints
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2005 11:57:21 +0100
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I pasted info from your posting header above...as you can see it was a
multipart message which shows up in text-based newsreaders as an
attachment. It's just much more inconvenient as nesgroups other than
.bin are for text only. Not using OE I don't know precisely the menu
items to modify to unset it, but I'm sure others can...
Thanks Upscale, the birdmouth joinery looks very interesting.
Oldun
"Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Oldun" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:
>> I want to make a barrel shaped planter, with 12 straight sides out of 4
>> by
> 1 inch timber. The
>> he4ight of the planter is obviously variable depending on the length the
>> 4
> by 1's are cut.
>
> This is the bird's mouth joinery bit that Swingman mentioned
> http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=45160&cat=1,46168
>
> You might also consider a flute and bead bits.
> http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=30155&cat=1,46168,46184&ap=1
>
>
"Duane Bozarth" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Oldun wrote:
>>
>> Part 1.1 Type: Plain Text (text/plain)
>> Encoding: quoted-printable
>
> Please put message text inline next time...
>
Could you please explain what you mean by the above.
Thanks
Oldun
OK I think I know what you mean. My text was all sent as HTML and now
(hopefully) it is in Plain Text.
Let me know if this has cured the problem.
Apologies to all.
Oldun
"Duane Bozarth" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
Oldun wrote:
>
> "Duane Bozarth" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Oldun wrote:
> >>
> >> Part 1.1 Type: Plain Text (text/plain)
> >> Encoding: quoted-printable
> >
> > Please put message text inline next time...
> >
> Could you please explain what you mean by the above.
From: "Oldun" <[email protected]>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: secure joints
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2005 11:57:21 +0100
Lines: 50
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0030_01C58D22.2F691EF0"
X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2900.2527
I pasted info from your posting header above...as you can see it was a
multipart message which shows up in text-based newsreaders as an
attachment. It's just much more inconvenient as nesgroups other than
.bin are for text only. Not using OE I don't know precisely the menu
items to modify to unset it, but I'm sure others can...
"Oldun" wrote in message
> Thanks
Don't discount the birds mouth joint for your planter. In my experience with
it, a properly glued joint of that type is sufficiently strong (stronger
than a miter joint) and attractive, particularly with 1 x 4 slats, for a
good size planter, and _much_ easier to assemble and clamp by yourself than
mitering the slats, even with the use of splines. And if done properly, it
won't need to be "turned" to look good ... ask any wooden boat builder worth
his salt about both strength and looks.
If you do decide to go with a mitered slats, with or without splines, and if
you're not jigged up for the job (which is doubtful or you wouldn't have
asked the question), get some help ... you will be glad of at least two, or
more, pair of hands when it comes to glue up with that method.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 7/12/05
"Oldun" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:
> I want to make a barrel shaped planter, with 12 straight sides out of 4 by
1 inch timber. The
> he4ight of the planter is obviously variable depending on the length the 4
by 1's are cut.
This is the bird's mouth joinery bit that Swingman mentioned
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=45160&cat=1,46168
You might also consider a flute and bead bits.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=30155&cat=1,46168,46184&ap=1
"Oldun" wrote in message
>>I want to make a barrel shaped planter, with 12 straight sides out of 4 by
1 inch timber.
>>The height of the planter is obviously variable depending on the length
the 4 by 1's are cut.
>>I can mitre the edges, but my problem is what is the best way to join
them?
A birdmouth joint will probably be your best bet ... often cut with a
"birdmouth" router bit, or on a shaper. DAGS.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 7/12/05.