I've sprayed WB Varathane with sat results. Have you tried it?
On Wed, 20 Jul 2005 15:01:44 -0700, David <[email protected]> wrote:
>Bubba wrote:
>> The "(ugh) poly" tells me something. I'm open to ideas. What is the
>> objection to poly? What are viable alternatives. The surface will be used
>> as a tray and from time to time will be exposed to a variety of liquids
>> including alcohol.
>>
>>
>> "David" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>
>>>Bubba wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>I've been trying my hand at veneer inlays. Deft spray laquer seems to
>>>>give a great looking finish, but I doubt if it would stand under wet
>>>>drinks. Any ideas as to how polyurethane as a protective top coat would
>>>>bond to a laquer finish
>>>
>>>Not very well over the long term. How's 'bout scuffing the lacquer, apply
>>>dewaxed shellac, and then the (ugh) poly?
>>>
>>>dave
>>
>>
>>
>The "ugh" was for the application; not for the results. Some guys will
>tell you poly looks bad. I don't think that's true unless you pile it
>on. But for application, I prefer spraying water bornes. They can be
>recoated in under 40 minutes and don't stick to everything around the
>spray area. Brushing poly often results in bubbles and it dries too
>slowly for me. Thin the poly to reduce bubbles. Spraying it makes on
>heck of a mess due to the sticky residue of overspray. Dust can settle
>on a slow drying finish like poly. I can't recall seeing any
>appreciable dust nibs on my water borne finishes. But the poly is gonna
>be more water resistant than WB even with Crosslinker added so I can
>appreciate why you'd choose poly. I've got a poly'd desktop that is
>softer (after more than a year after the finish was applied) than
>WB/Crosslinker that has set for a couple of weeks, BUT the poly does
>better on the water torture test...
>
>Dave
The "(ugh) poly" tells me something. I'm open to ideas. What is the
objection to poly? What are viable alternatives. The surface will be used
as a tray and from time to time will be exposed to a variety of liquids
including alcohol.
"David" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Bubba wrote:
>
>> I've been trying my hand at veneer inlays. Deft spray laquer seems to
>> give a great looking finish, but I doubt if it would stand under wet
>> drinks. Any ideas as to how polyurethane as a protective top coat would
>> bond to a laquer finish
> Not very well over the long term. How's 'bout scuffing the lacquer, apply
> dewaxed shellac, and then the (ugh) poly?
>
> dave
nospambob wrote:
> My history with Flecto Varathane goes back to the 50s and working with
> oil based shtuff was the norm. Several tries of the upstart WB
> products certainly didn't convince me they were even headed in the
> right direction. Update to today, all is well! Oil stuff is phasing
> out of the cabinet being replaced with WB stuff including WB lacquer.
> Get a small can of Varathane Diamond (believe that's the WB) gloss and
> TRY it, you might be pleasantly pleased!
>
> On Thu, 21 Jul 2005 08:48:12 -0700, David <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>nospambob wrote:
>>
>
>
>
I was with you right up to the part about the "gloss". :) I made the
mistake of applying gloss to some fluted door trim and rosettes. I had
to recoat with semi and even that was a tad shinier than I like.
Satin's more my pleasure. But as far as the product goes, I'll concede
that Diamond may be a whole nuther ball game than their other stuff I've
used in years past.
Dave
Dave
Bubba wrote:
> The "(ugh) poly" tells me something. I'm open to ideas. What is the
> objection to poly? What are viable alternatives. The surface will be used
> as a tray and from time to time will be exposed to a variety of liquids
> including alcohol.
>
>
> "David" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>Bubba wrote:
>>
>>
>>>I've been trying my hand at veneer inlays. Deft spray laquer seems to
>>>give a great looking finish, but I doubt if it would stand under wet
>>>drinks. Any ideas as to how polyurethane as a protective top coat would
>>>bond to a laquer finish
>>
>>Not very well over the long term. How's 'bout scuffing the lacquer, apply
>>dewaxed shellac, and then the (ugh) poly?
>>
>>dave
>
>
>
The "ugh" was for the application; not for the results. Some guys will
tell you poly looks bad. I don't think that's true unless you pile it
on. But for application, I prefer spraying water bornes. They can be
recoated in under 40 minutes and don't stick to everything around the
spray area. Brushing poly often results in bubbles and it dries too
slowly for me. Thin the poly to reduce bubbles. Spraying it makes on
heck of a mess due to the sticky residue of overspray. Dust can settle
on a slow drying finish like poly. I can't recall seeing any
appreciable dust nibs on my water borne finishes. But the poly is gonna
be more water resistant than WB even with Crosslinker added so I can
appreciate why you'd choose poly. I've got a poly'd desktop that is
softer (after more than a year after the finish was applied) than
WB/Crosslinker that has set for a couple of weeks, BUT the poly does
better on the water torture test...
Dave
Point taken, thanks.
On Fri, 22 Jul 2005 08:20:21 -0700, David <[email protected]> wrote:
>for flat surfaces I agree (unless you use Enduro products, which don't
>obscure the wood when you choose the flattened sheens), but for items
>with lots of difficult to sand nooks and crannies, trying to tame the
>gloss after the finish is applied can be a PITA.
>
>Dave
nospambob wrote:
> I've sprayed WB Varathane with sat results. Have you tried it?
>
> On Wed, 20 Jul 2005 15:01:44 -0700, David <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>Bubba wrote:
>>
>>>The "(ugh) poly" tells me something. I'm open to ideas. What is the
>>>objection to poly? What are viable alternatives. The surface will be used
>>>as a tray and from time to time will be exposed to a variety of liquids
>>>including alcohol.
>>>
>>>
>>>"David" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>news:[email protected]...
>>>
>>>
>>>>Bubba wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>I've been trying my hand at veneer inlays. Deft spray laquer seems to
>>>>>give a great looking finish, but I doubt if it would stand under wet
>>>>>drinks. Any ideas as to how polyurethane as a protective top coat would
>>>>>bond to a laquer finish
>>>>
>>>>Not very well over the long term. How's 'bout scuffing the lacquer, apply
>>>>dewaxed shellac, and then the (ugh) poly?
>>>>
>>>>dave
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>The "ugh" was for the application; not for the results. Some guys will
>>tell you poly looks bad. I don't think that's true unless you pile it
>>on. But for application, I prefer spraying water bornes. They can be
>>recoated in under 40 minutes and don't stick to everything around the
>>spray area. Brushing poly often results in bubbles and it dries too
>>slowly for me. Thin the poly to reduce bubbles. Spraying it makes on
>>heck of a mess due to the sticky residue of overspray. Dust can settle
>>on a slow drying finish like poly. I can't recall seeing any
>>appreciable dust nibs on my water borne finishes. But the poly is gonna
>>be more water resistant than WB even with Crosslinker added so I can
>>appreciate why you'd choose poly. I've got a poly'd desktop that is
>>softer (after more than a year after the finish was applied) than
>>WB/Crosslinker that has set for a couple of weeks, BUT the poly does
>>better on the water torture test...
>>
>>Dave
>
>
Nope, haven't tried any current Varathane products since I didn't like
their god-awfully slow drying Varathanes back in the 70's. Not that a
WB would be slow drying, but I tend to avoid certain brands like the
plague, such as Minwhacks and others that I've had less than stellar
results with. sometimes my biggest issue is not the final results, but
the odor, slow drying, or other bugaboo.
Dave
Dave
Why not learn to apply polyurethane and skip the lacquer? Yes, it will
take longer to cure increasing the likelihood of dust nibs but the sandwich
you are asking about is asking for trouble.
How much water are you talking about? Lacquer has moderate water and
water vapor resistance, poly has pretty good resistance.
Good Luck.
"Bubba" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've been trying my hand at veneer inlays. Deft spray laquer seems to
give
> a great looking finish, but I doubt if it would stand under wet drinks.
Any
> ideas as to how polyurethane as a protective top coat would bond to a
laquer
> finish
>
>
I prefer the clear view that gloss provides without the flatting
ingredient and it can be toned down with abrasive pads to whatever
sheen desired.
On Thu, 21 Jul 2005 12:56:00 -0700, David <[email protected]> wrote:
>nospambob wrote:
>> My history with Flecto Varathane goes back to the 50s and working with
>> oil based shtuff was the norm. Several tries of the upstart WB
>> products certainly didn't convince me they were even headed in the
>> right direction. Update to today, all is well! Oil stuff is phasing
>> out of the cabinet being replaced with WB stuff including WB lacquer.
>> Get a small can of Varathane Diamond (believe that's the WB) gloss and
>> TRY it, you might be pleasantly pleased!
>>
>> On Thu, 21 Jul 2005 08:48:12 -0700, David <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>
>>>nospambob wrote:
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>I was with you right up to the part about the "gloss". :) I made the
>mistake of applying gloss to some fluted door trim and rosettes. I had
>to recoat with semi and even that was a tad shinier than I like.
>Satin's more my pleasure. But as far as the product goes, I'll concede
>that Diamond may be a whole nuther ball game than their other stuff I've
> used in years past.
>
>Dave
>
>
>
>Dave
nospambob wrote:
> I prefer the clear view that gloss provides without the flatting
> ingredient and it can be toned down with abrasive pads to whatever
> sheen desired.
>
> On Thu, 21 Jul 2005 12:56:00 -0700, David <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>nospambob wrote:
>>
>>>My history with Flecto Varathane goes back to the 50s and working with
>>>oil based shtuff was the norm. Several tries of the upstart WB
>>>products certainly didn't convince me they were even headed in the
>>>right direction. Update to today, all is well! Oil stuff is phasing
>>>out of the cabinet being replaced with WB stuff including WB lacquer.
>>>Get a small can of Varathane Diamond (believe that's the WB) gloss and
>>>TRY it, you might be pleasantly pleased!
>>>
>>>On Thu, 21 Jul 2005 08:48:12 -0700, David <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>nospambob wrote:
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>I was with you right up to the part about the "gloss". :) I made the
>>mistake of applying gloss to some fluted door trim and rosettes. I had
>>to recoat with semi and even that was a tad shinier than I like.
>>Satin's more my pleasure. But as far as the product goes, I'll concede
>>that Diamond may be a whole nuther ball game than their other stuff I've
>> used in years past.
>>
>>Dave
>>
>>
>>
>>Dave
>
>
for flat surfaces I agree (unless you use Enduro products, which don't
obscure the wood when you choose the flattened sheens), but for items
with lots of difficult to sand nooks and crannies, trying to tame the
gloss after the finish is applied can be a PITA.
Dave
My history with Flecto Varathane goes back to the 50s and working with
oil based shtuff was the norm. Several tries of the upstart WB
products certainly didn't convince me they were even headed in the
right direction. Update to today, all is well! Oil stuff is phasing
out of the cabinet being replaced with WB stuff including WB lacquer.
Get a small can of Varathane Diamond (believe that's the WB) gloss and
TRY it, you might be pleasantly pleased!
On Thu, 21 Jul 2005 08:48:12 -0700, David <[email protected]> wrote:
>nospambob wrote:
>
>> I've sprayed WB Varathane with sat results. Have you tried it?
>>
>> On Wed, 20 Jul 2005 15:01:44 -0700, David <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Bubba wrote:
>>>
>>>>The "(ugh) poly" tells me something. I'm open to ideas. What is the
>>>>objection to poly? What are viable alternatives. The surface will be used
>>>>as a tray and from time to time will be exposed to a variety of liquids
>>>>including alcohol.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>"David" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>>news:[email protected]...
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>Bubba wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>I've been trying my hand at veneer inlays. Deft spray laquer seems to
>>>>>>give a great looking finish, but I doubt if it would stand under wet
>>>>>>drinks. Any ideas as to how polyurethane as a protective top coat would
>>>>>>bond to a laquer finish
>>>>>
>>>>>Not very well over the long term. How's 'bout scuffing the lacquer, apply
>>>>>dewaxed shellac, and then the (ugh) poly?
>>>>>
>>>>>dave
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>The "ugh" was for the application; not for the results. Some guys will
>>>tell you poly looks bad. I don't think that's true unless you pile it
>>>on. But for application, I prefer spraying water bornes. They can be
>>>recoated in under 40 minutes and don't stick to everything around the
>>>spray area. Brushing poly often results in bubbles and it dries too
>>>slowly for me. Thin the poly to reduce bubbles. Spraying it makes on
>>>heck of a mess due to the sticky residue of overspray. Dust can settle
>>>on a slow drying finish like poly. I can't recall seeing any
>>>appreciable dust nibs on my water borne finishes. But the poly is gonna
>>>be more water resistant than WB even with Crosslinker added so I can
>>>appreciate why you'd choose poly. I've got a poly'd desktop that is
>>>softer (after more than a year after the finish was applied) than
>>>WB/Crosslinker that has set for a couple of weeks, BUT the poly does
>>>better on the water torture test...
>>>
>>>Dave
>>
>>
>Nope, haven't tried any current Varathane products since I didn't like
>their god-awfully slow drying Varathanes back in the 70's. Not that a
>WB would be slow drying, but I tend to avoid certain brands like the
>plague, such as Minwhacks and others that I've had less than stellar
>results with. sometimes my biggest issue is not the final results, but
>the odor, slow drying, or other bugaboo.
>
>Dave
>
>Dave
Bubba wrote:
> I've been trying my hand at veneer inlays. Deft spray laquer seems to give
> a great looking finish, but I doubt if it would stand under wet drinks. Any
> ideas as to how polyurethane as a protective top coat would bond to a laquer
> finish
>
>
Not very well over the long term. How's 'bout scuffing the lacquer,
apply dewaxed shellac, and then the (ugh) poly?
dave