I thought I'd throw this out to the group and see if anyone had any
comments. My Jet drill press has an extremely low run out~.001, but
when it comes to chucking up small bits ,1/8 or lower, the bit doen't
seat well. It seems as though the jaws are not engaging evenly. I'm
pondering changing the chuck to a Jacob Keyed or Keyless chuck. I'm not
sure of the lingo or how to go about making this switch. Any ideas,
comments or concerns? Maybe there is no need to switch chuck at all.
Thanks,
Don
rickluce wrote:
> I thought I'd throw this out to the group and see if anyone had any
> comments. My Jet drill press has an extremely low run out~.001, but
> when it comes to chucking up small bits ,1/8 or lower, the bit doen't
> seat well. It seems as though the jaws are not engaging evenly. I'm
> pondering changing the chuck to a Jacob Keyed or Keyless chuck. I'm not
> sure of the lingo or how to go about making this switch. Any ideas,
> comments or concerns? Maybe there is no need to switch chuck at all.
>
> Thanks,
> Don
Collet
rickluce wrote:
> I thought I'd throw this out to the group and see if anyone had any
> comments. My Jet drill press has an extremely low run out~.001, but
> when it comes to chucking up small bits ,1/8 or lower, the bit doen't
> seat well. It seems as though the jaws are not engaging evenly. I'm
> pondering changing the chuck to a Jacob Keyed or Keyless chuck. I'm not
> sure of the lingo or how to go about making this switch. Any ideas,
> comments or concerns? Maybe there is no need to switch chuck at all.
>
> Thanks,
> Don
Collet
You've already gotten advice on replacing the chuck. I would add that
good quality Jacobs chucks are perhaps one of the bargains that can
still be purchased on ebay. I've bought a few really nice used chucks
at a small fraction of what they sell new for.
As one other option, if the existing chuck works well for larger size
shanks, you could get a pin chuck for smaller bits and chuck that into
the drill chuck. If you do this, make sure you get a ping chuck that
is designed to be chucked into a larger chuck. Some are made only to
be hand held and some of these have a free turning portion of the
handle to aid in hand use of very small drills.
--
Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
[email protected]
In article <[email protected]>,
rickluce <[email protected]> wrote:
>Thanks Larry. I just spoke with our maintenance supervisor and he
>recommended the same thing( ping chuck that is). A lot of machine shops
>have two(or more) chucks they use for a range of bit sizes. I am
>curious to how these devices work. Have you used one?
>
>Thanks.
>Don
>
Most of the pin chucks I have seen are something like a router collet.
They do have a limited range of sizes they will hold, so depending on
the smallest drill bit you intend to use, and the smallest that you
can reliably use in the regular chuck, you may need 2 pin chucks to
cover the entire range.
--
Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
[email protected]
They make small chucks that fit into the larger chucks. You put the small
bit into the small chuck and then put the small chuck into your larger
chuck. That way you don't have to keep pounding out the chucks to switch
them.
Any metalworking supplier would have them. MSC/Enco, Travers, Penn Tool,
J&L, etc.
"rickluce" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I thought I'd throw this out to the group and see if anyone had any
> comments. My Jet drill press has an extremely low run out~.001, but
> when it comes to chucking up small bits ,1/8 or lower, the bit doen't
> seat well. It seems as though the jaws are not engaging evenly. I'm
> pondering changing the chuck to a Jacob Keyed or Keyless chuck. I'm not
> sure of the lingo or how to go about making this switch. Any ideas,
> comments or concerns? Maybe there is no need to switch chuck at all.
>
> Thanks,
> Don
>
"rickluce" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I thought I'd throw this out to the group and see if anyone had any
> comments. My Jet drill press has an extremely low run out~.001, but
> when it comes to chucking up small bits ,1/8 or lower, the bit doen't
> seat well. It seems as though the jaws are not engaging evenly. I'm
> pondering changing the chuck to a Jacob Keyed or Keyless chuck. I'm not
> sure of the lingo or how to go about making this switch. Any ideas,
> comments or concerns? Maybe there is no need to switch chuck at all.
>
Why not get a good quality smaller chuck that you can chuck in the standard
chuck when you use small bits? Cost would be low...
John
In article <[email protected]>,
"rickluce" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I thought I'd throw this out to the group and see if anyone had any
> comments. My Jet drill press has an extremely low run out~.001, but
> when it comes to chucking up small bits ,1/8 or lower, the bit doen't
> seat well. It seems as though the jaws are not engaging evenly. I'm
> pondering changing the chuck to a Jacob Keyed or Keyless chuck. I'm not
> sure of the lingo or how to go about making this switch. Any ideas,
> comments or concerns? Maybe there is no need to switch chuck at all.
The chuck that came with my Jet floor drill press was very cheap. Turned
to gravel inside without hard use. Jet sent a replacement, but it too
wasn't a whole lot better.
A couple years ago I replaced it with a Bison keyless (made in Poland) -
about $60. This is an Albrecht ($200+) clone and is one of the best
upgrades I ever made in the entire shop. I liked it so much I bought a
second for my lathe.
When (If) you get a new chuck, get a new arbor to go with it. You'll
need a #2 Morse taper (MT) on one end with a Jacobs taper (JT) on the
other (my chuck uses a JT33 but it could vary depending on the chuck you
buy).
To change the chuck, you extend the drill spindle so you can see the
2"-ish slot. Rotate the chuck until you can put the metal wedge that
came with the DP through the slot and tap it with a hammer. The wedge
presses against the end of the arbor tang. The chuck will drop out of
the spindle (have a folded towel on the DP table).
Clean the new arbor and the new chuck's arbor bore of all grease, oil
and dirt. It's a good idea to clean the DP's arbor bore as well - don't
use anything metal as you don't want to score the taper walls. Place the
chuck on the arbor and then the arbor into the DP. Make sure the chuck's
jaws are not protruding from the end of the chuck and then extend the DP
spindle into a piece of wood to press and seat the various parts. Set
the DP to the slowest speed and under power do the same pressing into
the wood to again seat and align all the parts. Taadaaa. Done.
BTW, vibration is your worst enemy when you're trying to keep things
together - best friend when you want things to come apart. If you
introduce excessive vibration to the chuck when drilling or sanding or
whatever, the arbor could drop out of the DP and you'll need to go
through the seating process again.
--
Owen Lowe
The Fly-by-Night Copper Company
__________
"I pledge allegiance to the flag of the
Corporate States of America and to the
Republicans for which it stands, one nation,
under debt, easily divisible, with liberty
and justice for oil."
- Wiley Miller, Non Sequitur, 1/24/05
In article <[email protected]>,
"rickluce" <[email protected]> wrote:
> One more question Owen. Where did you purchase your Bison chuck and do
> you recommend a specific one?
Apparently the vendor I bought mine from no longer sells them, but you
could email him to see if he has any more in stock or has a lead on them.
<http://www.thewoodtradesman.com/>
Other than that I'm not sure who else carries them since I haven't
really been looking. MSCdirect carries Bison metalworking lathe chucks,
so may be worth a try.
--
Owen Lowe
The Fly-by-Night Copper Company
__________
"I pledge allegiance to the flag of the
Corporate States of America and to the
Republicans for which it stands, one nation,
under debt, easily divisible, with liberty
and justice for oil."
- Wiley Miller, Non Sequitur, 1/24/05
"rickluce" <[email protected]> writes:
> I thought I'd throw this out to the group and see if anyone had any
> comments. My Jet drill press has an extremely low run out~.001, but
> when it comes to chucking up small bits ,1/8 or lower, the bit doen't
> seat well. It seems as though the jaws are not engaging evenly. I'm
> pondering changing the chuck to a Jacob Keyed or Keyless chuck. I'm not
> sure of the lingo or how to go about making this switch. Any ideas,
> comments or concerns? Maybe there is no need to switch chuck at all.
Just go ahead and buy a Keyless chuck with morse taper adaptor, so you
can use the keyless chuck most of the time, and switch back to the old
one for using bigger bits. BTW, really large bits usually use no chuck
but have a morse taper of their own.
--
Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
mailto:[email protected] Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23