Okay, you finishing experts, what is the toughest, most durable finish
for a dining table that can be applied at home (i.e., no spray booth).
Next on my "honey dew" list (Honey, do this; honey, do that), is a
table with a baltic birch plywood top that will match other furniture
in the same room. She wants a ring-resistant, watermark resistant
finish. I had thought about conversion varnish but learned it's
probably beyond my capabilities to apply. What about marine varnish?
My gut tells me that the woodwork on boats has to stand up to heavy
abuse, so why not? Is there a better option that I should know about?
TIA, Ian
In article <[email protected]>,
Ian Dodd <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>Okay, you finishing experts, what is the toughest, most durable finish
>for a dining table that can be applied at home (i.e., no spray booth).
>
>Next on my "honey dew" list (Honey, do this; honey, do that), is a
>table with a baltic birch plywood top that will match other furniture
>in the same room. She wants a ring-resistant, watermark resistant
>finish. I had thought about conversion varnish but learned it's
>probably beyond my capabilities to apply. What about marine varnish?
>My gut tells me that the woodwork on boats has to stand up to heavy
>abuse, so why not? Is there a better option that I should know about?
>
>TIA, Ian
1) a piece of tempered glass, on top of the wood
2) a two-part, clear 'epoxy'.
3) there's a sealer/finish made specifically for bars -- cant think of the
name, but somebody else'll chip in with it.
4) a good _gloss_ varnish. Apply many -thin- coats, vs. a smaller number
of thin ones.
was that a good year for poly? :)
dave
solarman wrote:
> Poly made in 2000?
>
> "Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>
>>Preston,
>>
>>what is a "2K" poly?
>>
>>dave
>>
>>Preston Andreas wrote:
>>
>>
>>>If you have an area where you can spray and let it sit, you can apply pre
>>>and post catalyzed lacquer, conversion varnish, 2K polyurethane and
>>>polyester finishes. Sorry, polyester is out; requires special equipment.
>>>Conversion varnish may be out - it is hard to find in less than 5 gallon
>>
Preston,
what is a "2K" poly?
dave
Preston Andreas wrote:
> If you have an area where you can spray and let it sit, you can apply pre
> and post catalyzed lacquer, conversion varnish, 2K polyurethane and
> polyester finishes. Sorry, polyester is out; requires special equipment.
> Conversion varnish may be out - it is hard to find in less than 5 gallon
If you have an area where you can spray and let it sit, you can apply pre
and post catalyzed lacquer, conversion varnish, 2K polyurethane and
polyester finishes. Sorry, polyester is out; requires special equipment.
Conversion varnish may be out - it is hard to find in less than 5 gallon
containers (2K poly may be the same). Personally, I would try 2K poly,
followed by conversion varnish, followed by pre or post catalyzed lacquer.
I spray a lot of ML Campbell pre catalyzed lacquer (Magna Max
http://www.mlcampbell.com/pages/starpage.asp?star=MAM ) It is a good
lacquer for a lot of situations. Obviously there is better, but I can buy
it in gallons instead of 5 gallons. Also, it is nearly impervious to water
and chemicals and passes the TR-6 specs for this.
For hardness, check out http://www.pencilpages.com/articles/simmons.htm
If you want the final word from the professionals and prima donnas, ask in
this forum http://www.woodweb.com/cgi-bin/forums/finishing.pl
Hope this helps,
Preston
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Okay, you finishing experts, what is the toughest, most durable finish
> for a dining table that can be applied at home (i.e., no spray booth).
>
> Next on my "honey dew" list (Honey, do this; honey, do that), is a
> table with a baltic birch plywood top that will match other furniture
> in the same room. She wants a ring-resistant, watermark resistant
> finish. I had thought about conversion varnish but learned it's
> probably beyond my capabilities to apply. What about marine varnish?
> My gut tells me that the woodwork on boats has to stand up to heavy
> abuse, so why not? Is there a better option that I should know about?
>
> TIA, Ian
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