We're beginning to finish the basement, including an 11' x 22' shop.
The shop has an existing door; the door being a standard 3' door, it
has 33" of clear width when open. With this being a mild climate
(northern California), I'll do quite a bit of woodworking outdoors for
over half the year; the area right outside the basement is a flat
patio with concrete floor, in the shade of trees. 220V power is
available both indoors and outdoors. All the larger machinery (like a
tablesaw) has to be on a mobile base, to be moved around within the
shop (to make room for larger projects), and to be moved outside.
Because of the space constraint, I'm restricting myself to saws with
30" fences and without outfeed tables. Cutting of large plywood
pieces isn't done on the tablesaw; instead, it has to be done outdoors
with a circular saw along a straightedge guide. That's life for
people that have a small shop.
I would love to buy a really great tablesaw for the new shop (for
example a General 350/650), but there are a few problems. First, a
saw that's physically that big uses way too much room when not in use.
Second, it would not fit through the door, and I want a saw that can
be moved in and out of the shop. Third, a saw that heavy is probably
nearly impossible to move over the 3/4" high door threshold, even on a
mobile base.
So here's the question: What's the "best" tablesaw that can be moved
through a 33" wide door, without having to disassemble it to much?
Clearly, any benchtop saw (a good example is the Bosch 4000, or the
Ryobi BT3xxx) would fit fine; but they are just too small, often have
non-standard size miter slots, and don't have decent fences (not to
speak of undersized motors and so many other restrictions). I want a
saw that is accurate enough for furniture woodworking, can take a
reasonable size dado set, and is handles standard accessories.
Right now, I'm leaning towards either der DeWalt 746, or the Jet
Supersaw. I just measured the size of a Supersaw in the store: To fit
through the door, I'd have to remove the big bolt in the back that
holds the splitter / blade guard; but that hopefully takes only a few
minutes to reassemble and align. I've not had the opportunity to
measure whether the DW746 would fit through the door.
I've heard a few bad things about the fence on the Jet Supersaw, but
the fence on the DW746 doesn't seem to be too sturdy either. Rumor
has it that the sliding table attachment on the Jet is nearly
worthless, while the one for the DW746 is quite nice. On the other
hand, the Jet it is considerably cheaper than the DW746 (in particular
once you equip the DeWalt with cast-iron wings). I guess that I could
retrofit a high-quality fence onto either saw (as long as it is
removable for going through the door).
Could an owner of the DW746 maybe measure whether it will fit through
a 33" wide door? How much needs to be disassembled? I'll try to get
to a store which has a display model, but that will take me a few
weeks until a get around to it, and requires a multi-hour detour.
Does anyone know of other types of saws that could fit the bill? I
think all the full-size cabinet and contractors saws are too big. Any
other ideas?
And if you want to suggest enlarging the door: Sorry, I thought of
that. A 3'6" door (clear opening 39") could theoretically be
installed, but it would require cutting through a concrete wall that
is 12" thick at the bottom; this is unfortunately not practical. Any
larger door would be impossible (due to reasons of building
stability), nor really useful: With a shop that's only 11' wide, a 6
foot double door is silly.
--
The address in the header is invalid for obvious reasons. Please
reconstruct the address from the information below (look for _).
Ralph Becker-Szendy _firstname_@lr _dot_ los-gatos _dot_ ca.us
Bessy fence just bolts on to the rail, that just bolts onto the
tablesaw
John
On Wed, 21 Jan 2004 11:56:54 -0500, Roy Smith <[email protected]> wrote:
>In article <[email protected]>,
> John Crea <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Typical 10in cabinet saws are less than 30inches deep, even with the
>> fence attached,so size wise it should go thru a 33in door fine with a
>> little care
>
>Me and a friend were able to get a Unisaw down into my basement. It
>came up about 8 steps to the back porch, in through the door (another
>step up), through a 30" interior door, and down a full flight of stairs,
>including sharp 90 degree turns at the top and bottom. We did a lot of
>planning and worrying, but in the end it turned out to be a piece of
>cake.
>
>We took the cast iron top and adjusting wheels off and put it on a hand
>truck (with a piece of 3/4 plywood to extend the truck's shelf to be as
>wide as the saw cabinet). Getting the top off and back on is not hard
>(it's just 4 big allen-head bolts from below), but you've got to
>re-align it when you're done, which is a a little tricky. Taking the
>top off not only reduces the footprint, it removes a lot of weight, and
>just as importantly, moves the center of gravity way lower.
>
>Between getting the top back on, assembling the wings, the mobile base,
>the extension table, the fence, putting in the 220V circuit, etc, the
>two of us had a full afternoon's work after the basic moving, plus I put
>in a few more evenings by myself before I even got to turn the thing on
>the first time.
>
>The one really big surprise of the whole deal was discovering that the
>fence rail (I got the Unifence, don't know how this works with the Beis)
>slides in from the end. This means you transiently need an open space
>which is twice as long as the rail, or about 15 feet total. In my
>cramped basement shop, that was a problem. I ended up turning the
>machine on a diagonal to find the room.
On Wed, 21 Jan 2004 07:16:03 -0000,
_firstname_@lr_dot_los-gatos_dot_ca.us wrote:
>So here's the question: What's the "best" tablesaw that can be moved
>through a 33" wide door, without having to disassemble it to much?
My Wadkin cabinet saw will go through a narrow gap, and you can move
it single-handed. The cast iron top comes off and goes into three
pieces.
My "plastic bucket" saw (you've all seen the clones) is light enough
that I just pick it up and turn it sideways.
Moving the _jointer_ though - now you're talking problems.
--
Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods
I think the biggest problem you will have is the 3/4" threshold. The mobile
bases I've seen tend to have less than 3" wheels, and 3/4" is a lot for them
to go over. The one I have doesn't have but 3/4" of clearance to the frame
in the raised position anyway. You might want to consider making a base with
larger wheels - it will roll easier, and handle the threshold better.
An expensive alternative would be to get two saws: a nice solid cab. saw
for inside, and a smaller benchtop saw for outside. Being able to leave one
set up for dados would be handy on some projects, and you wouldn't need to
haul as many tools in and out.
I don't think my delta contractor saw is any wider than 33" if you take the
wings off, and if you take the motor off (not as hard as you think,
basically unplug, lift and pull) I doubt it's 33" front to back, which is
the way the Delta base rolls anyway. But, it's probably close, and close
probably means a battered door frame over time.
Shop Notes had a cool looking table saw/router station on their cover in the
last year, that used a DeWalt saw, that looked pretty nice. If you can live
without the power of a larger saw it might be the ticket.
<_firstname_@lr_dot_los-gatos_dot_ca.us> wrote in message
news:1074669362.623412@smirk...
> We're beginning to finish the basement, including an 11' x 22' shop.
> The shop has an existing door; the door being a standard 3' door, it
> has 33" of clear width when open. With this being a mild climate
> (northern California), I'll do quite a bit of woodworking outdoors for
> over half the year; the area right outside the basement is a flat
> patio with concrete floor, in the shade of trees. 220V power is
> available both indoors and outdoors. All the larger machinery (like a
> tablesaw) has to be on a mobile base, to be moved around within the
> shop (to make room for larger projects), and to be moved outside.
>
> Because of the space constraint, I'm restricting myself to saws with
> 30" fences and without outfeed tables. Cutting of large plywood
> pieces isn't done on the tablesaw; instead, it has to be done outdoors
> with a circular saw along a straightedge guide. That's life for
> people that have a small shop.
>
> I would love to buy a really great tablesaw for the new shop (for
> example a General 350/650), but there are a few problems. First, a
> saw that's physically that big uses way too much room when not in use.
> Second, it would not fit through the door, and I want a saw that can
> be moved in and out of the shop. Third, a saw that heavy is probably
> nearly impossible to move over the 3/4" high door threshold, even on a
> mobile base.
>
> So here's the question: What's the "best" tablesaw that can be moved
> through a 33" wide door, without having to disassemble it to much?
> Clearly, any benchtop saw (a good example is the Bosch 4000, or the
> Ryobi BT3xxx) would fit fine; but they are just too small, often have
> non-standard size miter slots, and don't have decent fences (not to
> speak of undersized motors and so many other restrictions). I want a
> saw that is accurate enough for furniture woodworking, can take a
> reasonable size dado set, and is handles standard accessories.
>
> Right now, I'm leaning towards either der DeWalt 746, or the Jet
> Supersaw. I just measured the size of a Supersaw in the store: To fit
> through the door, I'd have to remove the big bolt in the back that
> holds the splitter / blade guard; but that hopefully takes only a few
> minutes to reassemble and align. I've not had the opportunity to
> measure whether the DW746 would fit through the door.
>
> I've heard a few bad things about the fence on the Jet Supersaw, but
> the fence on the DW746 doesn't seem to be too sturdy either. Rumor
> has it that the sliding table attachment on the Jet is nearly
> worthless, while the one for the DW746 is quite nice. On the other
> hand, the Jet it is considerably cheaper than the DW746 (in particular
> once you equip the DeWalt with cast-iron wings). I guess that I could
> retrofit a high-quality fence onto either saw (as long as it is
> removable for going through the door).
>
> Could an owner of the DW746 maybe measure whether it will fit through
> a 33" wide door? How much needs to be disassembled? I'll try to get
> to a store which has a display model, but that will take me a few
> weeks until a get around to it, and requires a multi-hour detour.
>
> Does anyone know of other types of saws that could fit the bill? I
> think all the full-size cabinet and contractors saws are too big. Any
> other ideas?
>
> And if you want to suggest enlarging the door: Sorry, I thought of
> that. A 3'6" door (clear opening 39") could theoretically be
> installed, but it would require cutting through a concrete wall that
> is 12" thick at the bottom; this is unfortunately not practical. Any
> larger door would be impossible (due to reasons of building
> stability), nor really useful: With a shop that's only 11' wide, a 6
> foot double door is silly.
>
> --
> The address in the header is invalid for obvious reasons. Please
> reconstruct the address from the information below (look for _).
> Ralph Becker-Szendy _firstname_@lr _dot_ los-gatos _dot_ ca.us
Yeah, when I move mine I am always amazed when it stops dead, and it turns
out to be some 1/8" thick cutoff.
"Toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:%[email protected]...
> I hope you mean moving it outside for the season and leaving it there, or
> something like that. Moving anything but a benchtop can be a real bitch,
> except over a nice flat floor of course.
>
>
My Delta Contractor saw is outside under a foot of snow (tarped).
I have built "arms" at the stand base with 12" pneumatic tires
attached to an axle between the arms. Though I don/t have room
in my garage for the saw, I could roll that sucker ANYwhere I
wanted! I set it up so the wheels are off the ground about
an inch when the saw is sitting on the base legs. This setup
with slightly underinflated tires will easily roll over 2x4
chunks that always seem to be laying about. I regard this as a
stopgap measure as I will "someday" make a spot in the
garage for it. We recently got down to 24 degrees below zero
(Montana) and I've since fired it up after clearing snow off.
(Picture a cast-iron wheelbarrow!)
I used to live in Mt. Shasta, CA and did enlarge my ground-
floor door so I had a good roll-out to the patio.
Roger
999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999
"Bob Davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Be aware that the manual for the jet supersaw says net weight is 398 pounds.
> Its not going over a 3/4" threshold.
>
> Bob
>
> <_firstname_@lr_dot_los-gatos_dot_ca.us> wrote in message
> news:1074669362.623412@smirk...
>
> > Right now, I'm leaning towards either der DeWalt 746, or the Jet
> > Supersaw. I just measured the size of a Supersaw in the store: To fit
> > through the door, I'd have to remove the big bolt in the back that
> > holds the splitter / blade guard; but that hopefully takes only a few
> > minutes to reassemble and align.
My Delta Unisaw went through a 30" doorway to go down my basement stairs. I
removed the top and borrowed a dial indicator to reinstall it.
Once the saw was on the floor of my basement I assembled the mobile base and
placed the cabinet inside of it. Then I installed the cast iron top and
wings, side table and 52" fence.
Since my table saw purchase I also carried down the stairs a Delta 14"
closed base bandsaw, Jet 6" closed base jointer and a Delta 10" radial arm
saw, just to name the large items.
Buying a large table saw shouldn't be a problem, just ask for help while
getting it down the stairs.
<_firstname_@lr_dot_los-gatos_dot_ca.us> wrote in message
news:1074669362.623412@smirk...
> We're beginning to finish the basement, including an 11' x 22' shop.
> The shop has an existing door; the door being a standard 3' door, it
> has 33" of clear width when open. With this being a mild climate
> (northern California), I'll do quite a bit of woodworking outdoors for
> over half the year; the area right outside the basement is a flat
> patio with concrete floor, in the shade of trees. 220V power is
> available both indoors and outdoors. All the larger machinery (like a
> tablesaw) has to be on a mobile base, to be moved around within the
> shop (to make room for larger projects), and to be moved outside.
>
> Because of the space constraint, I'm restricting myself to saws with
> 30" fences and without outfeed tables. Cutting of large plywood
> pieces isn't done on the tablesaw; instead, it has to be done outdoors
> with a circular saw along a straightedge guide. That's life for
> people that have a small shop.
>
> I would love to buy a really great tablesaw for the new shop (for
> example a General 350/650), but there are a few problems. First, a
> saw that's physically that big uses way too much room when not in use.
> Second, it would not fit through the door, and I want a saw that can
> be moved in and out of the shop. Third, a saw that heavy is probably
> nearly impossible to move over the 3/4" high door threshold, even on a
> mobile base.
>
> So here's the question: What's the "best" tablesaw that can be moved
> through a 33" wide door, without having to disassemble it to much?
> Clearly, any benchtop saw (a good example is the Bosch 4000, or the
> Ryobi BT3xxx) would fit fine; but they are just too small, often have
> non-standard size miter slots, and don't have decent fences (not to
> speak of undersized motors and so many other restrictions). I want a
> saw that is accurate enough for furniture woodworking, can take a
> reasonable size dado set, and is handles standard accessories.
>
> Right now, I'm leaning towards either der DeWalt 746, or the Jet
> Supersaw. I just measured the size of a Supersaw in the store: To fit
> through the door, I'd have to remove the big bolt in the back that
> holds the splitter / blade guard; but that hopefully takes only a few
> minutes to reassemble and align. I've not had the opportunity to
> measure whether the DW746 would fit through the door.
>
> I've heard a few bad things about the fence on the Jet Supersaw, but
> the fence on the DW746 doesn't seem to be too sturdy either. Rumor
> has it that the sliding table attachment on the Jet is nearly
> worthless, while the one for the DW746 is quite nice. On the other
> hand, the Jet it is considerably cheaper than the DW746 (in particular
> once you equip the DeWalt with cast-iron wings). I guess that I could
> retrofit a high-quality fence onto either saw (as long as it is
> removable for going through the door).
>
> Could an owner of the DW746 maybe measure whether it will fit through
> a 33" wide door? How much needs to be disassembled? I'll try to get
> to a store which has a display model, but that will take me a few
> weeks until a get around to it, and requires a multi-hour detour.
>
> Does anyone know of other types of saws that could fit the bill? I
> think all the full-size cabinet and contractors saws are too big. Any
> other ideas?
>
> And if you want to suggest enlarging the door: Sorry, I thought of
> that. A 3'6" door (clear opening 39") could theoretically be
> installed, but it would require cutting through a concrete wall that
> is 12" thick at the bottom; this is unfortunately not practical. Any
> larger door would be impossible (due to reasons of building
> stability), nor really useful: With a shop that's only 11' wide, a 6
> foot double door is silly.
>
> --
> The address in the header is invalid for obvious reasons. Please
> reconstruct the address from the information below (look for _).
> Ralph Becker-Szendy _firstname_@lr _dot_ los-gatos _dot_ ca.us
Hi there,
I will go out to the shop and measure my DW746 tomorrow and let you know. I
am pretty sure it will fit cause I believe it came in thru a 33" door.
I upgraded my DW746 with the sliding table and one cast iron wing. Both are
great additions. I had to fusted with mine for a while to get it set up
right. The front fence rail had a slight twist to it but they replaced it
right away for me.
Chef
<_firstname_@lr_dot_los-gatos_dot_ca.us> wrote in message
news:1074669362.623412@smirk...
> We're beginning to finish the basement, including an 11' x 22' shop.
> The shop has an existing door; the door being a standard 3' door, it
> has 33" of clear width when open. With this being a mild climate
> (northern California), I'll do quite a bit of woodworking outdoors for
> over half the year; the area right outside the basement is a flat
> patio with concrete floor, in the shade of trees. 220V power is
> available both indoors and outdoors. All the larger machinery (like a
> tablesaw) has to be on a mobile base, to be moved around within the
> shop (to make room for larger projects), and to be moved outside.
>
> Because of the space constraint, I'm restricting myself to saws with
> 30" fences and without outfeed tables. Cutting of large plywood
> pieces isn't done on the tablesaw; instead, it has to be done outdoors
> with a circular saw along a straightedge guide. That's life for
> people that have a small shop.
>
> I would love to buy a really great tablesaw for the new shop (for
> example a General 350/650), but there are a few problems. First, a
> saw that's physically that big uses way too much room when not in use.
> Second, it would not fit through the door, and I want a saw that can
> be moved in and out of the shop. Third, a saw that heavy is probably
> nearly impossible to move over the 3/4" high door threshold, even on a
> mobile base.
>
> So here's the question: What's the "best" tablesaw that can be moved
> through a 33" wide door, without having to disassemble it to much?
> Clearly, any benchtop saw (a good example is the Bosch 4000, or the
> Ryobi BT3xxx) would fit fine; but they are just too small, often have
> non-standard size miter slots, and don't have decent fences (not to
> speak of undersized motors and so many other restrictions). I want a
> saw that is accurate enough for furniture woodworking, can take a
> reasonable size dado set, and is handles standard accessories.
>
> Right now, I'm leaning towards either der DeWalt 746, or the Jet
> Supersaw. I just measured the size of a Supersaw in the store: To fit
> through the door, I'd have to remove the big bolt in the back that
> holds the splitter / blade guard; but that hopefully takes only a few
> minutes to reassemble and align. I've not had the opportunity to
> measure whether the DW746 would fit through the door.
>
> I've heard a few bad things about the fence on the Jet Supersaw, but
> the fence on the DW746 doesn't seem to be too sturdy either. Rumor
> has it that the sliding table attachment on the Jet is nearly
> worthless, while the one for the DW746 is quite nice. On the other
> hand, the Jet it is considerably cheaper than the DW746 (in particular
> once you equip the DeWalt with cast-iron wings). I guess that I could
> retrofit a high-quality fence onto either saw (as long as it is
> removable for going through the door).
>
> Could an owner of the DW746 maybe measure whether it will fit through
> a 33" wide door? How much needs to be disassembled? I'll try to get
> to a store which has a display model, but that will take me a few
> weeks until a get around to it, and requires a multi-hour detour.
>
> Does anyone know of other types of saws that could fit the bill? I
> think all the full-size cabinet and contractors saws are too big. Any
> other ideas?
>
> And if you want to suggest enlarging the door: Sorry, I thought of
> that. A 3'6" door (clear opening 39") could theoretically be
> installed, but it would require cutting through a concrete wall that
> is 12" thick at the bottom; this is unfortunately not practical. Any
> larger door would be impossible (due to reasons of building
> stability), nor really useful: With a shop that's only 11' wide, a 6
> foot double door is silly.
>
> --
> The address in the header is invalid for obvious reasons. Please
> reconstruct the address from the information below (look for _).
> Ralph Becker-Szendy _firstname_@lr _dot_ los-gatos _dot_ ca.us
Be aware that the manual for the jet supersaw says net weight is 398 pounds.
Its not going over a 3/4" threshold.
Bob
<_firstname_@lr_dot_los-gatos_dot_ca.us> wrote in message
news:1074669362.623412@smirk...
> Right now, I'm leaning towards either der DeWalt 746, or the Jet
> Supersaw. I just measured the size of a Supersaw in the store: To fit
> through the door, I'd have to remove the big bolt in the back that
> holds the splitter / blade guard; but that hopefully takes only a few
> minutes to reassemble and align.
I agree, the fence works fine.
The sliding table is difficult to install. It weighs 75 pounds and creates
hernias. Play? Not on mine. Its solid as a rock. Anyone who says its
worthless, obviously has not used one.
"mttt" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've said a few unkind things about the Supersaw, but the fence has been
> fine for my needs.
>
> The sliding table (which I don't have) takes knocks for having play and
> being difficult to install.
>
"John Crea" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Typical 10in cabinet saws are less than 30inches deep, even with the
> fence attached,so size wise it should go thru a 33in door fine with a
> little care
>
> I cannot imagine any contractor saw that would not be able to get thru
> a 33inch door
>
You would think so, but I had to remove the molding to get my Craftsman in,
and even then it was very tight.
_firstname_@lr_dot_los-gatos_dot_ca.us wrote in
news:1074669362.623412@smirk:
> We're beginning to finish the basement, including an 11' x 22' shop.
> The shop has an existing door; the door being a standard 3' door, it
> has 33" of clear width when open. With this being a mild climate
> (northern California), I'll do quite a bit of woodworking outdoors for
> over half the year; the area right outside the basement is a flat
> patio with concrete floor, in the shade of trees. 220V power is
> available both indoors and outdoors. All the larger machinery (like a
> tablesaw) has to be on a mobile base, to be moved around within the
> shop (to make room for larger projects), and to be moved outside.
>
<snippage of project details>
Working outside in Northern California is GREAT, isn't it? Though there
are few basements in my town, because of the water table. I have my
'studio' in what most folks would call a garage. When the weather is good,
as it happens to be today, the big door goes up, and the outfeed table on
the Unisaw folds out into the fresh air. On many weekends, my buddy across
the street has his door open, and his big iron rolled out, just so he can
find room to work.
What I move to the driveway is my assembly table, or the planer, or a
number of sawhorses. I could get the Unisaw over the expansion joint, but
the slope of the driveway would be a pain. That being said, for your 3/4"
door threshold, consider cutting a couple of boards to use as ramps, to
make rolling over the threshold easier. If they are wide enough, a
standard base should work.
When researching saws, it became pretty clear that if you want the option
to upgrade fences and the like, you probably need to stay away from the
DeWalt or Jet hybrids. Those are 'system' saws, if you will, with
proprietary accessories & parts. Aftermarket stuff will likely be
unavailable, or late for those tools. The recommendations of the others to
look at better contractor saws is sound, IMO.
Patriarch
"Bob Davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> I agree, the fence works fine.
Wish the fence was a tad taller and the t-slots were moved up higher as
well. Find them a little low for some of the featherboards I have. But,
nothing fatal, nothing that can't be fixed with an Aux Fence.
Have you had to replace the Timing Belt yet?
Mine lasted 10 months - which I hear is pretty good for early buyers of the
saw.
I think someone else had a good description of the saw - "a system". E.g. -
you need an adaptor plate for the tenoning jig; you needed to buy an dado
insert specifically for the SuperSaw; you'll likely never get an aftermarket
fence on it; etc.
In article <1074669362.623412@smirk>,
<_firstname_@lr_dot_los-gatos_dot_ca.us> wrote:
>We're beginning to finish the basement, including an 11' x 22' shop.
>The shop has an existing door; the door being a standard 3' door, it
>has 33" of clear width when open. With this being a mild climate
>(northern California), I'll do quite a bit of woodworking outdoors for
>over half the year; the area right outside the basement is a flat
>patio with concrete floor, in the shade of trees. 220V power is
>available both indoors and outdoors. All the larger machinery (like a
>tablesaw) has to be on a mobile base, to be moved around within the
>shop (to make room for larger projects), and to be moved outside.
>
>Because of the space constraint, I'm restricting myself to saws with
>30" fences and without outfeed tables. Cutting of large plywood
>pieces isn't done on the tablesaw; instead, it has to be done outdoors
>with a circular saw along a straightedge guide. That's life for
>people that have a small shop.
>
>I would love to buy a really great tablesaw for the new shop (for
>example a General 350/650), but there are a few problems. First, a
>saw that's physically that big uses way too much room when not in use.
>Second, it would not fit through the door, and I want a saw that can
>be moved in and out of the shop. Third, a saw that heavy is probably
>nearly impossible to move over the 3/4" high door threshold, even on a
>mobile base.
*THAT* issue is solvable by building a removable ramp that fits over
the threshold. give it about 18" of 'flat' on each side of the threshold,
and slope to ground-level over a foot or so.
>So here's the question: What's the "best" tablesaw that can be moved
>through a 33" wide door, without having to disassemble it to much?
>Clearly, any benchtop saw (a good example is the Bosch 4000, or the
>Ryobi BT3xxx) would fit fine; but they are just too small, often have
>non-standard size miter slots, and don't have decent fences (not to
>speak of undersized motors and so many other restrictions). I want a
>saw that is accurate enough for furniture woodworking, can take a
>reasonable size dado set, and is handles standard accessories.
>
>Right now, I'm leaning towards either der DeWalt 746, or the Jet
>Supersaw. I just measured the size of a Supersaw in the store: To fit
>through the door, I'd have to remove the big bolt in the back that
>holds the splitter / blade guard; but that hopefully takes only a few
>minutes to reassemble and align. I've not had the opportunity to
>measure whether the DW746 would fit through the door.
>
>I've heard a few bad things about the fence on the Jet Supersaw, but
>the fence on the DW746 doesn't seem to be too sturdy either. Rumor
>has it that the sliding table attachment on the Jet is nearly
>worthless, while the one for the DW746 is quite nice. On the other
>hand, the Jet it is considerably cheaper than the DW746 (in particular
>once you equip the DeWalt with cast-iron wings). I guess that I could
>retrofit a high-quality fence onto either saw (as long as it is
>removable for going through the door).
>
>Could an owner of the DW746 maybe measure whether it will fit through
>a 33" wide door? How much needs to be disassembled? I'll try to get
>to a store which has a display model, but that will take me a few
>weeks until a get around to it, and requires a multi-hour detour.
>
>Does anyone know of other types of saws that could fit the bill? I
>think all the full-size cabinet and contractors saws are too big. Any
>other ideas?
A Delta 10" contractor _will_ fit. Without fence rails.
I know, because I've _done_ it. getting it into the rear bedroom of my Condo.
<wry grin>
The Delta, with only a left wing, needs about 30-1/2" clearance side to
side, not counting the rails. I just re-measured, to confirm.
However, the all-steel non-adjustable Delta mobile base makes for a problem,
because _it_ needs another several inches for the rollers and lever-handle.
The "Hercules" mobile base -- made by Jet, I think; seen at Home Depot -- has
the 'works' _inside_ the legs. Should clear the doorway with no problem.
Based on my measurements, I'd think pretty much _any_ contractor saw would
fit -- the base table width of 22" is pretty much an industry standard.
How about enclosing the area outside the shop door and leaving the table saw
out there permanently? You could buy any saw you want (a big, honking
Unisaw!) and have more room to work inside.
A 6 foot door to an 11 foot shop is not stupid. It's practical for what you
want to do. It's not that hard to widen that opening. Some properly
installed 2x12 headers will hold the house up, and a 1 day rental of an
electric jackhammer will take that concrete out in no time. I've done both.
Bob
<_firstname_@lr_dot_los-gatos_dot_ca.us> wrote in message
news:1074669362.623412@smirk...
> We're beginning to finish the basement, including an 11' x 22' shop.
> The shop has an existing door; the door being a standard 3' door, it
> has 33" of clear width when open. With this being a mild climate
> (northern California), I'll do quite a bit of woodworking outdoors for
> over half the year; the area right outside the basement is a flat
> patio with concrete floor, in the shade of trees. 220V power is
> available both indoors and outdoors. All the larger machinery (like a
> tablesaw) has to be on a mobile base, to be moved around within the
> shop (to make room for larger projects), and to be moved outside.
>
> Because of the space constraint, I'm restricting myself to saws with
> 30" fences and without outfeed tables. Cutting of large plywood
> pieces isn't done on the tablesaw; instead, it has to be done outdoors
> with a circular saw along a straightedge guide. That's life for
> people that have a small shop.
>
> I would love to buy a really great tablesaw for the new shop (for
> example a General 350/650), but there are a few problems. First, a
> saw that's physically that big uses way too much room when not in use.
> Second, it would not fit through the door, and I want a saw that can
> be moved in and out of the shop. Third, a saw that heavy is probably
> nearly impossible to move over the 3/4" high door threshold, even on a
> mobile base.
>
> So here's the question: What's the "best" tablesaw that can be moved
> through a 33" wide door, without having to disassemble it to much?
> Clearly, any benchtop saw (a good example is the Bosch 4000, or the
> Ryobi BT3xxx) would fit fine; but they are just too small, often have
> non-standard size miter slots, and don't have decent fences (not to
> speak of undersized motors and so many other restrictions). I want a
> saw that is accurate enough for furniture woodworking, can take a
> reasonable size dado set, and is handles standard accessories.
>
> Right now, I'm leaning towards either der DeWalt 746, or the Jet
> Supersaw. I just measured the size of a Supersaw in the store: To fit
> through the door, I'd have to remove the big bolt in the back that
> holds the splitter / blade guard; but that hopefully takes only a few
> minutes to reassemble and align. I've not had the opportunity to
> measure whether the DW746 would fit through the door.
>
> I've heard a few bad things about the fence on the Jet Supersaw, but
> the fence on the DW746 doesn't seem to be too sturdy either. Rumor
> has it that the sliding table attachment on the Jet is nearly
> worthless, while the one for the DW746 is quite nice. On the other
> hand, the Jet it is considerably cheaper than the DW746 (in particular
> once you equip the DeWalt with cast-iron wings). I guess that I could
> retrofit a high-quality fence onto either saw (as long as it is
> removable for going through the door).
>
> Could an owner of the DW746 maybe measure whether it will fit through
> a 33" wide door? How much needs to be disassembled? I'll try to get
> to a store which has a display model, but that will take me a few
> weeks until a get around to it, and requires a multi-hour detour.
>
> Does anyone know of other types of saws that could fit the bill? I
> think all the full-size cabinet and contractors saws are too big. Any
> other ideas?
>
> And if you want to suggest enlarging the door: Sorry, I thought of
> that. A 3'6" door (clear opening 39") could theoretically be
> installed, but it would require cutting through a concrete wall that
> is 12" thick at the bottom; this is unfortunately not practical. Any
> larger door would be impossible (due to reasons of building
> stability), nor really useful: With a shop that's only 11' wide, a 6
> foot double door is silly.
>
> --
> The address in the header is invalid for obvious reasons. Please
> reconstruct the address from the information below (look for _).
> Ralph Becker-Szendy _firstname_@lr _dot_ los-gatos _dot_ ca.us
"Bob Davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> I agree, the fence works fine.
>
Ignore question about Timing Belt - see from above, yours is still alive and
kicking.
That's great news. I actually got a very early SuperSaw - Oct 2002 from
Amazon.
<_firstname_@lr_dot_los-gatos_dot_ca.us> wrote in message
news:1074669362.623412@smirk...
>
> through the door, I'd have to remove the big bolt in the back that
> holds the splitter / blade guard; but that hopefully takes only a few
> minutes to reassemble and align. I've not had the opportunity to
I own a Supersaw. It takes 2-3 minutes to remove/replace that splitter. Once
aligned, I've never had to re-align. I just pop it on/off as necessary.
>
> I've heard a few bad things about the fence on the Jet Supersaw, but
> the fence on the DW746 doesn't seem to be too sturdy either. Rumor
I've said a few unkind things about the Supersaw, but the fence has been
fine for my needs.
> has it that the sliding table attachment on the Jet is nearly
> worthless, while the one for the DW746 is quite nice.
The sliding table (which I don't have) takes knocks for having play and
being difficult to install.
> once you equip the DeWalt with cast-iron wings). I guess that I could
> retrofit a high-quality fence onto either saw (as long as it is
> removable for going through the door).
Would be work on the Supersaw. The front rail sits lower that the back
rail - by design. A retrofit would take some engineering, or a fence
manufacturer that's targetted the Supersaw. If you don't like the
SuperSaw's fence, as is, I'd steer clear of the saw.
No belt yet, but I'll probably buy a spare when they come back into stock
(Feb 11).
When I bought the saw, I was not a very knowledgeable buyer. I just thought
it was a nice saw and liked the dealer. I've been pretty happy with it. My
next saw will be about $4000, so this one may be with me a long, long time.
Bob
"mttt" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Have you had to replace the Timing Belt yet?
> Mine lasted 10 months - which I hear is pretty good for early buyers of
the
> saw.
>
> I think someone else had a good description of the saw - "a system".
E.g. -
> you need an adaptor plate for the tenoning jig; you needed to buy an dado
> insert specifically for the SuperSaw; you'll likely never get an
aftermarket
> fence on it; etc.
>
>
Typical 10in cabinet saws are less than 30inches deep, even with the
fence attached,so size wise it should go thru a 33in door fine with a
little care
I cannot imagine any contractor saw that would not be able to get thru
a 33inch door
John
On Wed, 21 Jan 2004 07:16:03 -0000,
_firstname_@lr_dot_los-gatos_dot_ca.us wrote:
>We're beginning to finish the basement, including an 11' x 22' shop.
>The shop has an existing door; the door being a standard 3' door, it
>has 33" of clear width when open. With this being a mild climate
>(northern California), I'll do quite a bit of woodworking outdoors for
>over half the year; the area right outside the basement is a flat
>patio with concrete floor, in the shade of trees. 220V power is
>available both indoors and outdoors. All the larger machinery (like a
>tablesaw) has to be on a mobile base, to be moved around within the
>shop (to make room for larger projects), and to be moved outside.
>
>Because of the space constraint, I'm restricting myself to saws with
>30" fences and without outfeed tables. Cutting of large plywood
>pieces isn't done on the tablesaw; instead, it has to be done outdoors
>with a circular saw along a straightedge guide. That's life for
>people that have a small shop.
>
>I would love to buy a really great tablesaw for the new shop (for
>example a General 350/650), but there are a few problems. First, a
>saw that's physically that big uses way too much room when not in use.
>Second, it would not fit through the door, and I want a saw that can
>be moved in and out of the shop. Third, a saw that heavy is probably
>nearly impossible to move over the 3/4" high door threshold, even on a
>mobile base.
>
>So here's the question: What's the "best" tablesaw that can be moved
>through a 33" wide door, without having to disassemble it to much?
>Clearly, any benchtop saw (a good example is the Bosch 4000, or the
>Ryobi BT3xxx) would fit fine; but they are just too small, often have
>non-standard size miter slots, and don't have decent fences (not to
>speak of undersized motors and so many other restrictions). I want a
>saw that is accurate enough for furniture woodworking, can take a
>reasonable size dado set, and is handles standard accessories.
>
>Right now, I'm leaning towards either der DeWalt 746, or the Jet
>Supersaw. I just measured the size of a Supersaw in the store: To fit
>through the door, I'd have to remove the big bolt in the back that
>holds the splitter / blade guard; but that hopefully takes only a few
>minutes to reassemble and align. I've not had the opportunity to
>measure whether the DW746 would fit through the door.
>
>I've heard a few bad things about the fence on the Jet Supersaw, but
>the fence on the DW746 doesn't seem to be too sturdy either. Rumor
>has it that the sliding table attachment on the Jet is nearly
>worthless, while the one for the DW746 is quite nice. On the other
>hand, the Jet it is considerably cheaper than the DW746 (in particular
>once you equip the DeWalt with cast-iron wings). I guess that I could
>retrofit a high-quality fence onto either saw (as long as it is
>removable for going through the door).
>
>Could an owner of the DW746 maybe measure whether it will fit through
>a 33" wide door? How much needs to be disassembled? I'll try to get
>to a store which has a display model, but that will take me a few
>weeks until a get around to it, and requires a multi-hour detour.
>
>Does anyone know of other types of saws that could fit the bill? I
>think all the full-size cabinet and contractors saws are too big. Any
>other ideas?
>
>And if you want to suggest enlarging the door: Sorry, I thought of
>that. A 3'6" door (clear opening 39") could theoretically be
>installed, but it would require cutting through a concrete wall that
>is 12" thick at the bottom; this is unfortunately not practical. Any
>larger door would be impossible (due to reasons of building
>stability), nor really useful: With a shop that's only 11' wide, a 6
>foot double door is silly.
Hey, that's an entertaining description, Roger. All you need is a steering
wheel for your saw, now. :-)
"roger" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> My Delta Contractor saw is outside under a foot of snow (tarped).
> I have built "arms" at the stand base with 12" pneumatic tires
> attached to an axle between the arms. Though I don/t have room
> in my garage for the saw, I could roll that sucker ANYwhere I
> wanted! I set it up so the wheels are off the ground about
> an inch when the saw is sitting on the base legs. This setup
> with slightly underinflated tires will easily roll over 2x4
> chunks that always seem to be laying about. I regard this as a
> stopgap measure as I will "someday" make a spot in the
> garage for it. We recently got down to 24 degrees below zero
> (Montana) and I've since fired it up after clearing snow off.
> (Picture a cast-iron wheelbarrow!)
>
> I used to live in Mt. Shasta, CA and did enlarge my ground-
> floor door so I had a good roll-out to the patio.
>
> Roger
> 999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999
>
> "Bob Davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:<[email protected]>...
> > Be aware that the manual for the jet supersaw says net weight is 398
pounds.
> > Its not going over a 3/4" threshold.
> >
> > Bob
> >
> > <_firstname_@lr_dot_los-gatos_dot_ca.us> wrote in message
> > news:1074669362.623412@smirk...
> >
> > > Right now, I'm leaning towards either der DeWalt 746, or the Jet
> > > Supersaw. I just measured the size of a Supersaw in the store: To fit
> > > through the door, I'd have to remove the big bolt in the back that
> > > holds the splitter / blade guard; but that hopefully takes only a few
> > > minutes to reassemble and align.
In article <[email protected]>,
John Crea <[email protected]> wrote:
> Typical 10in cabinet saws are less than 30inches deep, even with the
> fence attached,so size wise it should go thru a 33in door fine with a
> little care
Me and a friend were able to get a Unisaw down into my basement. It
came up about 8 steps to the back porch, in through the door (another
step up), through a 30" interior door, and down a full flight of stairs,
including sharp 90 degree turns at the top and bottom. We did a lot of
planning and worrying, but in the end it turned out to be a piece of
cake.
We took the cast iron top and adjusting wheels off and put it on a hand
truck (with a piece of 3/4 plywood to extend the truck's shelf to be as
wide as the saw cabinet). Getting the top off and back on is not hard
(it's just 4 big allen-head bolts from below), but you've got to
re-align it when you're done, which is a a little tricky. Taking the
top off not only reduces the footprint, it removes a lot of weight, and
just as importantly, moves the center of gravity way lower.
Between getting the top back on, assembling the wings, the mobile base,
the extension table, the fence, putting in the 220V circuit, etc, the
two of us had a full afternoon's work after the basic moving, plus I put
in a few more evenings by myself before I even got to turn the thing on
the first time.
The one really big surprise of the whole deal was discovering that the
fence rail (I got the Unifence, don't know how this works with the Beis)
slides in from the end. This means you transiently need an open space
which is twice as long as the rail, or about 15 feet total. In my
cramped basement shop, that was a problem. I ended up turning the
machine on a diagonal to find the room.
Any possibliity to changing the door? How about putting in a nice set of
double doors and then you could move any saw. For the 3/4 threshold, that
will be touch with a moble base. Maybe a small ramp to get from the floor
height to the threshold height?
Bernie
<_firstname_@lr_dot_los-gatos_dot_ca.us> wrote in message
news:1074669362.623412@smirk...
> We're beginning to finish the basement, including an 11' x 22' shop.
> The shop has an existing door; the door being a standard 3' door, it
> has 33" of clear width when open. With this being a mild climate
> (northern California), I'll do quite a bit of woodworking outdoors for
> over half the year; the area right outside the basement is a flat
> patio with concrete floor, in the shade of trees. 220V power is
> available both indoors and outdoors. All the larger machinery (like a
> tablesaw) has to be on a mobile base, to be moved around within the
> shop (to make room for larger projects), and to be moved outside.
>
> Because of the space constraint, I'm restricting myself to saws with
> 30" fences and without outfeed tables. Cutting of large plywood
> pieces isn't done on the tablesaw; instead, it has to be done outdoors
> with a circular saw along a straightedge guide. That's life for
> people that have a small shop.
>
> I would love to buy a really great tablesaw for the new shop (for
> example a General 350/650), but there are a few problems. First, a
> saw that's physically that big uses way too much room when not in use.
> Second, it would not fit through the door, and I want a saw that can
> be moved in and out of the shop. Third, a saw that heavy is probably
> nearly impossible to move over the 3/4" high door threshold, even on a
> mobile base.
>
> So here's the question: What's the "best" tablesaw that can be moved
> through a 33" wide door, without having to disassemble it to much?
> Clearly, any benchtop saw (a good example is the Bosch 4000, or the
> Ryobi BT3xxx) would fit fine; but they are just too small, often have
> non-standard size miter slots, and don't have decent fences (not to
> speak of undersized motors and so many other restrictions). I want a
> saw that is accurate enough for furniture woodworking, can take a
> reasonable size dado set, and is handles standard accessories.
>
> Right now, I'm leaning towards either der DeWalt 746, or the Jet
> Supersaw. I just measured the size of a Supersaw in the store: To fit
> through the door, I'd have to remove the big bolt in the back that
> holds the splitter / blade guard; but that hopefully takes only a few
> minutes to reassemble and align. I've not had the opportunity to
> measure whether the DW746 would fit through the door.
>
> I've heard a few bad things about the fence on the Jet Supersaw, but
> the fence on the DW746 doesn't seem to be too sturdy either. Rumor
> has it that the sliding table attachment on the Jet is nearly
> worthless, while the one for the DW746 is quite nice. On the other
> hand, the Jet it is considerably cheaper than the DW746 (in particular
> once you equip the DeWalt with cast-iron wings). I guess that I could
> retrofit a high-quality fence onto either saw (as long as it is
> removable for going through the door).
>
> Could an owner of the DW746 maybe measure whether it will fit through
> a 33" wide door? How much needs to be disassembled? I'll try to get
> to a store which has a display model, but that will take me a few
> weeks until a get around to it, and requires a multi-hour detour.
>
> Does anyone know of other types of saws that could fit the bill? I
> think all the full-size cabinet and contractors saws are too big. Any
> other ideas?
>
> And if you want to suggest enlarging the door: Sorry, I thought of
> that. A 3'6" door (clear opening 39") could theoretically be
> installed, but it would require cutting through a concrete wall that
> is 12" thick at the bottom; this is unfortunately not practical. Any
> larger door would be impossible (due to reasons of building
> stability), nor really useful: With a shop that's only 11' wide, a 6
> foot double door is silly.
>
> --
> The address in the header is invalid for obvious reasons. Please
> reconstruct the address from the information below (look for _).
> Ralph Becker-Szendy _firstname_@lr _dot_ los-gatos _dot_ ca.us