I have a Jet 18" bandsaw with a 1 1/2 hp motor. The motor is wired for 220v.
It starts and runs, but placing even the slightest load on it slows it down
dramatically, then blows the breaker. This is a brand new behavior. When I
turn the blade by hand, it moves smoothly and easily. I'm going to try another
blade in case this one is dull, but haven't yet.
Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Doug
Could be. Or you might have lost a leg (from 240, and only have 120). That
could be in your house wiring, in your motor, or most likely the jumpers that
switch the BS to 240.
GerryG
On Thu, 19 Aug 2004 15:50:15 -0400, "Kevin Singleton" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>It sounds like a problem I'm having with my drill press. From what little I
>know about electric motors, it's probably a start/run capacitor. I doubt
>it's the blade, though.
>
>Kevin
In article <[email protected]>,
Tom Veatch <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Fri, 20 Aug 2004 19:41:58 GMT, "Dave jackson" <[email protected]>
>wrote:
>
>>sound like only one 120 leg is working to me also, grab the voltmeter and
>>check the outlet.. By the way, when you switched it to 220 did it perform
>>better? I have the 18" jet also, (still on 115v). Love the saw, just a
>>little underpowered. Just wondering if the switch to 220 would help with
>>this.
>>
>
>Switching to 220 "probably" wouldn't make much difference in the observed power
>output. But it depends on the overall electrical configuration of the
>installation. Running at 220 would cut the amperage draw in half. That would
>reduce the voltage loss (drop) through the service wiring by half. If a
>significant voltage drop were causing the power loss, running 220 would show
>improvement. There would be improvement with 220, it just might not be enough to
>be noticeable.
>
>I run everything possible in my shop at 220 to try to keep the amperage as low
>as possible. I have a 60 amp tap off the service entrance to power the shop at
>the end of almost 200 feet of feeder cable. At 110 with lights, air conditioner
>(Kansas summers can be brutally hot), dust collector, etc., it's pretty easy to
>use up 60 amps in a hurry.
>
>Anybody know a source for 220v light bulbs? The local Borg clones look at me
>like I've got a loose screw when I ask them. I can't seem to find any 'murrican
>sources in all the Euopean results I get from Google.
Any _industrial_ lighting supply house will be able to get them.
"Let your fingers to the walking" applies. <grin>
Be advised that for the larger wattages (100+), 'mogul' base is common.
"Kevin Singleton" <[email protected]> wrote:
>It sounds like a problem I'm having with my drill press. From what little I
>know about electric motors, it's probably a start/run capacitor. I doubt
>it's the blade, though.
It was the capacitor. I replaced it and the bandsaw is back to its old self.
It only cost $8 from an electric motor shop, so it may be easier to just to try
a new one instead of diagnosising the old one.
-- Doug
More likely a run capacitor, but they're sometimes in the same package.
Kevin
--
=====
<Layne> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> Hi Kevin,
>
> I doubt it's the start capacitor. If it were a faulty start capacitor
> the motor probably wouldn't even turn over, especially given the
> initial load a BS motor must overcome.
It sounds like a problem I'm having with my drill press. From what little I
know about electric motors, it's probably a start/run capacitor. I doubt
it's the blade, though.
Kevin
--
=====
"Nova" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Douglas Johnson wrote:
>
> >I have a Jet 18" bandsaw with a 1 1/2 hp motor. The motor is wired for
220v.
> >It starts and runs, but placing even the slightest load on it slows it
down
> >dramatically, then blows the breaker. This is a brand new behavior.
When I
> >turn the blade by hand, it moves smoothly and easily. I'm going to try
another
> >blade in case this one is dull, but haven't yet.
> >
> >Any suggestions?
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Doug
> >
> >
>
> If the blade doesn't help I'd try changing the breaker.
>
> --
> Jack Novak
>
> Buffalo, NY - USA
> (Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)
How did you determine that the capacitor is faulty? I need to check on my
drill press, and I'd like to know how it's done.
Thanks.
Kevin
--
=====
"Douglas Johnson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> The capacitor has died. I'll get it replaced and see what happens.
Douglas Johnson wrote:
>I have a Jet 18" bandsaw with a 1 1/2 hp motor. The motor is wired for 220v.
>It starts and runs, but placing even the slightest load on it slows it down
>dramatically, then blows the breaker. This is a brand new behavior. When I
>turn the blade by hand, it moves smoothly and easily. I'm going to try another
>blade in case this one is dull, but haven't yet.
>
>Any suggestions?
>
>Thanks,
>Doug
>
>
If the blade doesn't help I'd try changing the breaker.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
(Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)
Ha! Maybe I'll be that lucky, too!
Kevin
--
=====
"Douglas Johnson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> It was real easy. It had a hole melted into it. <grin>
> -- Doug
sound like only one 120 leg is working to me also, grab the voltmeter and
check the outlet.. By the way, when you switched it to 220 did it perform
better? I have the 18" jet also, (still on 115v). Love the saw, just a
little underpowered. Just wondering if the switch to 220 would help with
this.
"Douglas Johnson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have a Jet 18" bandsaw with a 1 1/2 hp motor. The motor is wired for
220v.
> It starts and runs, but placing even the slightest load on it slows it
down
> dramatically, then blows the breaker. This is a brand new behavior. When
I
> turn the blade by hand, it moves smoothly and easily. I'm going to try
another
> blade in case this one is dull, but haven't yet.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks,
> Doug
Hi Kevin,
I doubt it's the start capacitor. If it were a faulty start capacitor
the motor probably wouldn't even turn over, especially given the
initial load a BS motor must overcome.
Layne
On Thu, 19 Aug 2004 15:50:15 -0400, "Kevin Singleton"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>It sounds like a problem I'm having with my drill press. From what little I
>know about electric motors, it's probably a start/run capacitor. I doubt
>it's the blade, though.
>
>Kevin
"Kevin Singleton" <[email protected]> wrote:
>How did you determine that the capacitor is faulty? I need to check on my
>drill press, and I'd like to know how it's done.
It was real easy. It had a hole melted into it. <grin>
-- Doug
Always go with the cheapest alternative when diagnosing a problem.
Changing the blade might be it, though I doubt it but it wouldn't
hurt. By "slightest load" do you mean resawing or cutting 3/4" stock?
Resawing puts quite a load on the motor.
My humble guess is that it's the motor not the house wiring. Check the
wiring on the motor. If it looks okay take the motor off and take it
to a electric motor repair person to get it diagnosed.
Layne
On Thu, 19 Aug 2004 16:36:22 GMT, Douglas Johnson
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I have a Jet 18" bandsaw with a 1 1/2 hp motor. The motor is wired for 220v.
>It starts and runs, but placing even the slightest load on it slows it down
>dramatically, then blows the breaker. This is a brand new behavior. When I
>turn the blade by hand, it moves smoothly and easily. I'm going to try another
>blade in case this one is dull, but haven't yet.
>
>Any suggestions?
>
>Thanks,
>Doug
On Fri, 20 Aug 2004 19:41:58 GMT, "Dave jackson" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>sound like only one 120 leg is working to me also, grab the voltmeter and
>check the outlet.. By the way, when you switched it to 220 did it perform
>better? I have the 18" jet also, (still on 115v). Love the saw, just a
>little underpowered. Just wondering if the switch to 220 would help with
>this.
>
Switching to 220 "probably" wouldn't make much difference in the observed power
output. But it depends on the overall electrical configuration of the
installation. Running at 220 would cut the amperage draw in half. That would
reduce the voltage loss (drop) through the service wiring by half. If a
significant voltage drop were causing the power loss, running 220 would show
improvement. There would be improvement with 220, it just might not be enough to
be noticeable.
I run everything possible in my shop at 220 to try to keep the amperage as low
as possible. I have a 60 amp tap off the service entrance to power the shop at
the end of almost 200 feet of feeder cable. At 110 with lights, air conditioner
(Kansas summers can be brutally hot), dust collector, etc., it's pretty easy to
use up 60 amps in a hurry.
Anybody know a source for 220v light bulbs? The local Borg clones look at me
like I've got a loose screw when I ask them. I can't seem to find any 'murrican
sources in all the Euopean results I get from Google.
Tom Veatch
Wichita, KS USA
Layne <> wrote:
>Always go with the cheapest alternative when diagnosing a problem.
>Changing the blade might be it, though I doubt it but it wouldn't
>hurt. By "slightest load" do you mean resawing or cutting 3/4" stock?
>Resawing puts quite a load on the motor.
Cutting 3/4" stock.
>
>My humble guess is that it's the motor not the house wiring. Check the
>wiring on the motor. If it looks okay take the motor off and take it
>to a electric motor repair person to get it diagnosed.
The capacitor has died. I'll get it replaced and see what happens.
-- Doug
"Dave jackson" <[email protected]> wrote:
>sound like only one 120 leg is working to me also, grab the voltmeter and
>check the outlet.. By the way, when you switched it to 220 did it perform
>better? I have the 18" jet also, (still on 115v). Love the saw, just a
>little underpowered. Just wondering if the switch to 220 would help with
>this.
I never ran it on 115, switched to 220 before I plugged it in for the first
time. Like one of the posters, I run everything I can on 220. I don't expect
any real difference in tool power, but they do seem to start a little quicker
with less fuss.
The puzzle about a single 120 leg being blown is how the saw would run at all.
There is no neutral in the circuit, just a safety ground. Unless there is
something dangerously wrong with the saw wiring... Hmm, I better check it.
Thanks all,
Doug