Disc Sander Question

You may find the 12" sanding disks easier to find in stores.

Also the conical surface may be difficult to stick flat sanding disk onto
without wrinkles.
---------------


Why would switching to a 12" model ensure that I would get a flat
disc?

"DerbyDad03" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I just bought a Harbor Freight 10" Disc Sander.
>
> If I place a straight edge across the face of the disc, it's not flat.
> It is "higher" in the center of the disc, i.e. the straight edge rocks
> from side to side. With the straight edge held flat against the one
> side of the face, there's about a 1/16"gap at the opposite edge of the
> disc.
>
> I'm new to disc sanders, so I'm not sure if this is an issue or not.
>
> Thanks for your comments on this situation.


Not blaming you for wanting to save some money but you might not be able to
find a place that sells lower quality tools. For a sander that size expect
to pay in the $150~$200 range for something tollerable.

With a surface like what you described you might be lucky to be able to keep
sand paper stuck to the surface.

On Mar 29, 7:16=A0pm, Larry Blanchard <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Tue, 29 Mar 2011 15:20:31 -0500, Leon wrote:
> > ;~) =A0But the topic of the OP is a disk sander not an accessory for a =
TS.
>
> Leon, the OP wanted to know why his disc was tapered. =A0We told him. =A0=
I
> also said that *if* his disc sander tilted like a table saw and *if* he
> could rig up a rip fence, he could use it as if it were a table saw.
>
> If not, turn the disc around, if possible, and use the flat side. =A0If
> both sides are tapered, take it back :-).
>
> --
> Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

That's the part the I don't get.

If you look at the table in the link below, you'll notice a lever on
the side of the table. There's one on both sides.

Loosen them and you can tilt the table down to 45 degrees max.

http://www.harborfreight.com/10-inch-bench-top-disc-sander-47404.html

I'm not sure how a fence enters into this. What would I be doing with
the fence and a tilted table?

On Mar 30, 9:26=A0am, "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote:
> DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > On Mar 29, 7:16 pm, Larry Blanchard <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> On Tue, 29 Mar 2011 15:20:31 -0500, Leon wrote:
> >>> ;~) But the topic of the OP is a disk sander not an accessory for a
> >>> TS.
>
> >> Leon, the OP wanted to know why his disc was tapered. We told him. I
> >> also said that *if* his disc sander tilted like a table saw and *if*
> >> he could rig up a rip fence, he could use it as if it were a table
> >> saw.
>
> >> If not, turn the disc around, if possible, and use the flat side. If
> >> both sides are tapered, take it back :-).
>
> >> --
> >> Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw
>
> > That's the part the I don't get.
>
> > If you look at the table in the link below, you'll notice a lever on
> > the side of the table. There's one on both sides.
>
> > Loosen them and you can tilt the table down to 45 degrees max.
>
> >http://www.harborfreight.com/10-inch-bench-top-disc-sander-47404.html
>
> > I'm not sure how a fence enters into this. What would I be doing with
> > the fence and a tilted table?
>
> Nothing. =A0Absolutely nothing. =A0If you had a tapered plate on a *saw* =
you
> could sand & joint edges nicely but you don't have that.
>
> Enjoy using your sander for the purpose intended and purge the thoughts o=
f
> fences, tilted tables and jointing edges from your memory.
>
> --
>
> dadiOH
> ____________________________
>
> dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
> ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
> LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
> Get it athttp://mysite.verizon.net/xico- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

That's what I thought and thus my confusion.

I really, really tried to picture what a fence and tilting table on a
bench top disk sander would be used for and just couldn't see it.

Thanks for the reassurance that (in this case at least) I not
completely ignorant. <g>

On Mar 28, 4:22=A0pm, DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Mar 28, 3:47=A0pm, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > "Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> >news:[email protected]...
>
> > > Doug Miller wrote:
> > >> In article
> > >> <5b521766-a3cd-44cf-960b-0e6bb0ffb...@o30g2000pra.googlegroups.com>,
> > >> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > >>> Is my disc tapered because it was designed that way or is my disc
> > >>> tapered due to poor workmanship?
>
> > >> You bought it at Harbor Freight. You paid 80 bucks. Do you *really*
> > >> need to
> > >> ask that question? :-)
>
> > >>> Since there certainly appears to be an "object" known as a tapered
> > >>> disc, could it be that this is what comes with the HF Disc Sander o=
r
> > >>> are tapered discs only used on table saws?
>
> > >> Obviously that's "what comes with the HF Disc Sander" -- the questio=
n
> > >> is
> > >> whether it's intentionally so.
>
> > >> Seriously, though: the disc should be flat. Maybe not dead flat -- a
> > >> disk
> > >> sander is not, after all, a precision tool -- but it should *not* be
> > >> out by 1/16" across an 8" disk.
>
> > > Actually there is quite a bit of information on the net about why a
> > > sanding disk should be tapered. =A0So far, I haven't seen anything th=
at
> > > really answered the OP's question, other than opinions about HF, and =
some
> > > well intended guesses. =A0The one advantage that a tapered disk holds=
over a
> > > flat disk is that it allows you to feed stock in as if you were rippi=
ng
> > > it - which you could not do with a flat disk. =A0I'm not so sure at a=
ll that
> > > it should not be 1/16th of an inch across its surface.
>
> > I can assure you that a bench top disk sander sands in the wrong dirrec=
tion
> > for feeding stock as if you were ripping it. =A0One on a TS is a differ=
ent
> > matter but this is a sander where you feed the stock pretty much into t=
he
> > disk at a 90 degree angle. =A0You want to use this machine for shaping =
curves.
> > or angles.- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -
>
> re: "You want to use this machine for shaping curves or angles."
>
> Which is specifically why I purchased it and also why I don't think
> the "taper" impacts the *main* task I'll use the machine for.
>
> That said, *if* it a bench top disc sander could be used for other
> purposes (e.g. jointing) and the taper is going to prevent that, then
> perhaps I need to "upgrade".- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

FYI...the main purpose for this machine (at this time) is for rounding
the corners of 1/4" x 1" flat aluminum stock. Essentially turning
rectangles into long ovals.

I make brake mechanisms for Soap Box Derby cars and each brake
requires 4 pieces of 1" flat stock of various lengths, for a total of
16 corners that need to be rounded to a specific radius. (I have a
spool of thread that gives me the perfect radius on the 1" stock)

I started rounding the corners with my bench grinder, but that
resulted in too much heat (read: too much melted aluminum that needed
to be filed smooth)

I then tried my belt sander secured to my workbench in a jig - which
worked much better than the grinder - but holding the pieces by hand
was still cumbersome and tiring.

That led me to the benchtop disc sander and it's built in table. With
80 grit sandpaper, the corners round off very quickly and then a quick
touch-up with a worn belt on my belt sander removes all the sanding
marks from the stock.

That's why I say that the taper is not an issue - for this task - but
if I'm limited by the taper from using the machine for other tasks
that a bench top disk sander is normally used for, then I might
consider replacing it.

"HeyBub" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>
>> re: "You want to use this machine for shaping curves or angles."
>>
>> Which is specifically why I purchased it and also why I don't think
>> the "taper" impacts the *main* task I'll use the machine for.
>>
>> That said, *if* it a bench top disc sander could be used for other
>> purposes (e.g. jointing) and the taper is going to prevent that, then
>> perhaps I need to "upgrade".
>
> It's the taper that PERMITS using the sander as a jointer.
>

A jointer normally produces a finished surface.... A disk sander machine
is going to produce scratches against the grain.

In news:78dfbb02-03f0-4d50-a311-fa409be3333b@f31g2000pri.googlegroups.com,
DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> spewed forth:
> On Mar 27, 10:28 am, Larry Jaques <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>> On Sat, 26 Mar 2011 19:18:53 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
>>
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> I just bought a Harbor Freight 10" Disc Sander.
>>
>>> If I place a straight edge across the face of the disc, it's not
>>> flat. It is "higher" in the center of the disc, i.e. the straight
>>> edge rocks from side to side. With the straight edge held flat
>>> against the one side of the face, there's about a 1/16"gap at the
>>> opposite edge of the disc.
>>
>> Does it wobble, too? I'd return it.
>
> No wobble at all. I would have already returned it if it did.
>
>>> I'm new to disc sanders, so I'm not sure if this is an issue or not.
>>
>> If you're trying to flatten a surface, it will be a big issue.
>
> Now I'm really confused. Some say that it's a beveled disk and can be
> used as a joiner, you say it's an issue if I try to use it to flatten
> a surface. Isn't a joiner used to flatten a surface (edge) for gluing?
>
>>> Thanks for your comments on this situation.
>>
>> Some choices:
>>
>> 1) Return it to HF and measure the other models they have in stock,
>> taking the best one.
>
> A fine suggestion, if I feel like taking the plastic straps off the
> boxes, cutting the packing tape, removing the packing foam, lifting
> the units out of their boxes and taking them out of the plastic bag.
> Then, after checking each disk - 'cuz I'm a nice guy - reversing the
> whole process and packing them all up again. ;-)
>
>> 2) Return it and try one of their 12" models for $35 more. If you
>> used
>> a 20% off coupon, be sure they apply that discount to the new
>> purchase
>> price.
>
> Why would switching to a 12" model ensure that I would get a flat
> disc?
>
>>
>> 3) Return it and call Grizzly. Have them ensure that you'll get a
>> flat one if you order from them, then order it
>> there.http://www.grizzly.com/products/12-Disc-Sander/G729712" I get
>> $191.65 as a delivered price to Oregon. YMMV.
>
> That's a bit high for my needs. $89.99 - $20 (on a $100) purchase fit
> my budget (and gift cards).
>
> As far as what I plan to use it for (mostly rounding the corners on
> wood (and aluminum) stock) the "bevel" might not be an issue since
> I'll really just be using the down stroke side of the disc anyway.
>
> I'm really just curious if that's how it's supposed to be.
>
>>
>> G'luck!
>
> Thanks!

another option if you truly need it flat is to take the disc to a machine
shop and have them machine it flat.
It should mill easily, since I'm assuming the plate is aluminum

Leon wrote:
>>>
>>> Most all disk sander I have seen and mine that I use are using 80
>>> grit or more coarse. Absolutley not microscopic.
>>
>> You do know there are finer grits available, right? :-)
>
> Yes and I have a finer grit, I have had it for about 4 years and have
> never seen the need to use other than the one that came on the
> sander. ;~) I guess you could say that I bought the finer grit
> before I knew better. You have to sand again to smooth out the
> against the grain marks regardless of what grit you use, you might as
> well use a coarse grit and get the shaping done with.

Not if you have a tapered disk. . .

"Oz" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Yep used a couple of bought in items, and built more out of surplus motors
> & bits-n-bobs. Done some quite "odd" jobs, like building a spring-loaded
> stopped slider to make accurately sized disks in large-ish batch numbers.l
> Howeve I confess that I never thought of using them for jointing, I always
> used a Festool saw & track for that.
>
> Have a great day-week-month...............


I had a jointer for years and finally sold it a year so ago, I have been
using a sled to straighten my boards with a much higher degree of accuracy
than with the jointer and with much less effort. Now like you I use the
Festool 75 track saw to straighten my boards, less trouble than the sled and
not much risk for error.

On Mar 30, 3:41=A0am, "Lobby Dosser" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Larry Blanchard" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
> > On Tue, 29 Mar 2011 15:20:31 -0500, Leon wrote:
>
> >> ;~) =A0But the topic of the OP is a disk sander not an accessory for a=
TS.
>
> > Leon, the OP wanted to know why his disc was tapered. =A0We told him. =
=A0I
> > also said that *if* his disc sander tilted like a table saw and *if* he
> > could rig up a rip fence, he could use it as if it were a table saw.
>
> > If not, turn the disc around, if possible, and use the flat side. =A0If
> > both sides are tapered, take it back :-).
>
> Another possibility is the OP did not measure correctly. Many, many years
> ago I bought a brand new Delta bench top bandsaw. When I first went to us=
e
> it I discovered the table was warped (aluminum) and called Delta who sent=
me
> a brand new table. The new table was also warped and it took me some time=
to
> discover that it was my checking that was warped and Both tables were fin=
e.
> Delta were very gracious about it and told me to just keep the second as =
a
> spare or to use for something else.

"DerbyDad03" wrote:

>I just bought a Harbor Freight 10" Disc Sander.
>
> If I place a straight edge across the face of the disc, it's not
> flat.
> It is "higher" in the center of the disc, i.e. the straight edge
> rocks
> from side to side. With the straight edge held flat against the one
> side of the face, there's about a 1/16"gap at the opposite edge of
> the
> disc.
>
> I'm new to disc sanders, so I'm not sure if this is an issue or not.
-----------------------------------
The answer is "Yes" and "No".

You can find disc sanders that are tapered just as you describe and
there are disc sanders that are totally flat.

You can even find a 10" sanding disc that is designed to fit a table
saw that is tapered on one face and flat on the opposite face.

Supposedly the tapered face is designed to produce a jointed edge.

I wasn't to successful when I tried it, but I'd chalk that up to
operator error as much as anything.

Personally I'd take it back to H/F and buy my power tools from
somebody else.

Lew

DerbyDad03 wrote:

> As far as what I plan to use it for (mostly rounding the corners on
> wood (and aluminum) stock) the "bevel" might not be an issue since
> I'll really just be using the down stroke side of the disc anyway.

So does everybody else. Never try to do so otherwise.

> I'm really just curious if that's how it's supposed to be.

Hard to say.

The ones with a built in bevel are meant for saws where you can tilt the
plate so the "bent" part is vertical; once done you don't have to worry
about the board catching the leading edge of the disk (in addition to being
able to join). The same holds true with your disk (except for the joining).

I don't buy the idea about the edge being set back so it won't sand so
fast...if it isn't touching the wood it isn't going to sand regardless of
how much faster the edge is traveling relative to the center. Cute idea
though.

The center on mine is slightly higher too but not by 1/16, more like a RCH.
If I want to square up an end I pass the wood from right to left; the center
sands away slowly (good, doesn't burn the wood as easily) and if there is
still wood to sand the edge whisks it off more rapidly but there is less
pressure. You shouldn't be trying to take off 1/16 in one pass, though.

Finally, if you just have to have the plate square, set the miter gauge so
it is so.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

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"DerbyDad03" wrote:

You do realize that I bought a Disc Sander, not a Sanding Disk, right?

http://www.harborfreight.com/10-inch-bench-top-disc-sander-47404.html
----------------------------
I think what most realize is you got what you paid for.

Lew

DerbyDad03 wrote:

> Which is specifically why I purchased it and also why I don't think
> the "taper" impacts the *main* task I'll use the machine for.
>
> That said, *if* it a bench top disc sander could be used for other
> purposes (e.g. jointing) and the taper is going to prevent that, then
> perhaps I need to "upgrade".

It can't. Round with it, sand board ends or angles with it, that's what it
is for.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

"DerbyDad03" wrote:

> FYI...the main purpose for this machine (at this time) is for
> rounding
the corners of 1/4" x 1" flat aluminum stock. Essentially turning
rectangles into long ovals.

I make brake mechanisms for Soap Box Derby cars and each brake
requires 4 pieces of 1" flat stock of various lengths, for a total of
16 corners that need to be rounded to a specific radius. (I have a
spool of thread that gives me the perfect radius on the 1" stock)
---------------------------------
The above is a natural for a 2"x40" bench top sander with an 80 grit
belt.

Keep a can of cold water handy for quenching as you work.

Lew

Andrew Barss wrote:
> Larry Blanchard <[email protected]> wrote:
>> On Sat, 26 Mar 2011 20:15:51 -0700, Lew Hodgett wrote:
>
>>> You can even find a 10" sanding disc that is designed to fit a
>>> table saw that is tapered on one face and flat on the opposite face.
>>>
>>> Supposedly the tapered face is designed to produce a jointed edge.
>
>> But that only works if you can tilt the disc slightly. I doubt the
>> HF sander has that capability.
>
>> I have a tapered disc for my tablesaw. Tilting it to remove the
>> taper so that only a small arc touches the wood, and using the rip
>> fence, I can get a pretty smooth edge.
>
> I'm confused. Why is this better than a plain flat disc?

Two reasons...

1. When the disc is tilted so the taper is vertical at the center line of
the disc, the outside edge of the disc is farther away from the fence. That
allows you to feed a board along the fence without hitting the edge of the
disc. If the disc is flat and you want to remove, say, 1/32 along the board
edge you would not be able to feed it without hitting the edge of the disc.
Get a kitchen plate and play with it, you'll see what I mean.

2. If the disc is flat it is mostly sanding across the grain; when tapered,
it is only contacting the wood at one point and is moving *with* the grain.
Cutting with the grain with anything always gives smoother results.


--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
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Leon wrote:
> "HeyBub" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>>
>>> re: "You want to use this machine for shaping curves or angles."
>>>
>>> Which is specifically why I purchased it and also why I don't think
>>> the "taper" impacts the *main* task I'll use the machine for.
>>>
>>> That said, *if* it a bench top disc sander could be used for other
>>> purposes (e.g. jointing) and the taper is going to prevent that,
>>> then perhaps I need to "upgrade".
>>
>> It's the taper that PERMITS using the sander as a jointer.
>>
>
> A jointer normally produces a finished surface.... A disk sander machine
> is going to produce scratches against the grain.

Not if the disc is tapered. Only the very small part of the disc that is in
contact with the wood is sanding and that part is moving parallel to the
wood. However, the disc has to be tilted so the taper is vertical and I've
never seen a dedicated disk sander where that is possible; saws, yes; disc
sanders, no.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

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...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
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Lobby Dosser wrote:
> "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>
>>> Which is specifically why I purchased it and also why I don't think
>>> the "taper" impacts the *main* task I'll use the machine for.
>>>
>>> That said, *if* it a bench top disc sander could be used for other
>>> purposes (e.g. jointing) and the taper is going to prevent that,
>>> then perhaps I need to "upgrade".
>>
>> It can't. Round with it, sand board ends or angles with it, that's
>> what it is for.
>>
>
> Not necessarily.
>
> http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/sn_conical_sanding.htm

That isn't a disc sanding machine. It is a multi-purpose machine with a
tapered disc where a saw blade would normally be. That's what tapered discs
are for...to use on a saw, either TS or RAS- something that has a table
*AND* a fence.

And almost $60 for a piece of round steel is just plain robbery. Especially
considering you can buy one most places for around $20 which isn't exactly a
bargain either.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

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LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
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DerbyDad03 wrote:
> I just bought a Harbor Freight 10" Disc Sander.
>
> If I place a straight edge across the face of the disc, it's not flat.
> It is "higher" in the center of the disc, i.e. the straight edge rocks
> from side to side. With the straight edge held flat against the one
> side of the face, there's about a 1/16"gap at the opposite edge of the
> disc.


Sudden thought: Is the back of the plate flat?



--

dadiOH
____________________________

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Lobby Dosser wrote:
> See this:
> http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/sn_conical_sanding.htm

Here's a better diagram...
http://woodworker.com/fullpres.asp?PARTNUM=95-430&LARGEVIEW=ON



--

dadiOH
____________________________

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Doug Miller wrote:
>> 2. If the disc is flat it is mostly sanding across the grain; when
>> tapered, it is only contacting the wood at one point and is moving
>> *with* the grain. Cutting with the grain with anything always gives
>> smoother results.
>
> You're going to have to explain that one, I'm afraid.

You mean about cutting with the grain? What's to explain? If you use, say
a router, and cut a rabbet both with and cross grain, which is smoother?
Ditto any machine I'm familiar with. Moreover, any tool marks less obvious
with the grain and are easier to remove since they can be removed in the
same direction as the natural wood grain.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

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LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
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Doug Miller wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>, "dadiOH"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Doug Miller wrote:
>>>> 2. If the disc is flat it is mostly sanding across the grain; when
>>>> tapered, it is only contacting the wood at one point and is moving
>>>> *with* the grain. Cutting with the grain with anything always gives
>>>> smoother results.
>>>
>>> You're going to have to explain that one, I'm afraid.
>>
>> You mean about cutting with the grain?
>
> No, about the role the taper plays in that.

Do the sketches here help?
http://woodworker.com/fullpres.asp?PARTNUM=95-430&LARGEVIEW=ON

If not, grab a dinner plate and hold the bottom against a wall; now tilt it
so the bevel is touching the wall. See?

--

dadiOH
____________________________

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LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
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DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Mar 29, 7:16 pm, Larry Blanchard <[email protected]> wrote:
>> On Tue, 29 Mar 2011 15:20:31 -0500, Leon wrote:
>>> ;~) But the topic of the OP is a disk sander not an accessory for a
>>> TS.
>>
>> Leon, the OP wanted to know why his disc was tapered. We told him. I
>> also said that *if* his disc sander tilted like a table saw and *if*
>> he could rig up a rip fence, he could use it as if it were a table
>> saw.
>>
>> If not, turn the disc around, if possible, and use the flat side. If
>> both sides are tapered, take it back :-).
>>
>> --
>> Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw
>
> That's the part the I don't get.
>
> If you look at the table in the link below, you'll notice a lever on
> the side of the table. There's one on both sides.
>
> Loosen them and you can tilt the table down to 45 degrees max.
>
> http://www.harborfreight.com/10-inch-bench-top-disc-sander-47404.html
>
> I'm not sure how a fence enters into this. What would I be doing with
> the fence and a tilted table?

Nothing. Absolutely nothing. If you had a tapered plate on a *saw* you
could sand & joint edges nicely but you don't have that.

Enjoy using your sander for the purpose intended and purge the thoughts of
fences, tilted tables and jointing edges from your memory.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Mar 29, 11:08 am, "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>> I just bought a Harbor Freight 10" Disc Sander.
>>
>>> If I place a straight edge across the face of the disc, it's not
>>> flat. It is "higher" in the center of the disc, i.e. the straight
>>> edge rocks from side to side. With the straight edge held flat
>>> against the one side of the face, there's about a 1/16"gap at the
>>> opposite edge of the disc.
>
>> Sudden thought: Is the back of the plate flat?
>
> Dunno. The back of the plate is covered by the housing of the unit.
>
> http://www.harborfreight.com/10-inch-bench-top-disc-sander-47404.html
>
> That blue "ring" around the disk extends in a bowl-like manner down to
> the motor housing, where it appears to be welded right to the motor
> housing, so the back of the plate is not accessible .
>
> There may be a bolt under the sandpaper itself that allows the plate
> to be removed, but if so, I think I'd have to remove the table and
> dust collection housing before the disk could be removed. Not sure,
> but I'm not into tearing the unit apart right now.
>
> Maybe if I decide to return it, I'll take it apart just before I do.
> <g>

I asked because I thought your plate might have one cone side, one flat and
could be reversed. Why they would make it that way for a disc sander, I
have no idea. The plate is being driven directly by the motor so I suspect
it is held on to the motor shaft by a nut.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

On Mar 27, 11:39=A0pm, "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "DerbyDad03" wrote:
>
> You do realize that I bought a Disc Sander, not a Sanding Disk, right?
>
> http://www.harborfreight.com/10-inch-bench-top-disc-sander-47404.html
> ----------------------------
> I think what most realize is you got what you paid for.
>
> Lew

I agree!

That said, I'm still not sure what I got.

All other things quality-related being what they are, this question is
still on the table (no pun intended):

Is my disc tapered because it was designed that way or is my disc
tapered due to poor workmanship?

Since there certainly appears to be an "object" known as a tapered
disc, could it be that this is what comes with the HF Disc Sander or
are tapered discs only used on table saws?

On Mar 27, 5:43=A0pm, "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote:
> DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > As far as what I plan to use it for (mostly rounding the corners on
> > wood (and aluminum) stock) the "bevel" might not be an issue since
> > I'll really just be using the down stroke side of the disc anyway.
>
> So does everybody else. =A0Never try to do so otherwise.
>
> > I'm really just curious if that's how it's supposed to be.
>
> Hard to say.
>
> The ones with a built in bevel are meant for saws where you can tilt the
> plate so the "bent" part is vertical; once done you don't have to worry
> about the board catching the leading edge of the disk (in addition to bei=
ng
> able to join). =A0The same holds true with your disk (except for the join=
ing).
>
> I don't buy the idea about the edge being set back so it won't sand so
> fast...if it isn't touching the wood it isn't going to sand regardless of
> how much faster the edge is traveling relative to the center. =A0Cute ide=
a
> though.
>
> The center on mine is slightly higher too but not by 1/16, more like a RC=
H.
> If I want to square up an end I pass the wood from right to left; the cen=
ter
> sands away slowly (good, doesn't burn the wood as easily) and if there is
> still wood to sand the edge whisks it off more rapidly but there is less
> pressure. =A0You shouldn't be trying to take off 1/16 in one pass, though=
.
>
> Finally, if you just have to have the plate square, set the miter gauge s=
o
> it is so.
>
> --
>
> dadiOH
> ____________________________
>
> dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
> ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
> LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
> Get it athttp://mysite.verizon.net/xico

Thanks for the info.

How does one use a disc sander as "joiner"? I'm just not seeing that.

On Mar 27, 7:28=A0pm, Larry Blanchard <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Sun, 27 Mar 2011 14:32:06 -0700, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > How does one use a disc sander as "joiner"? I'm just not seeing that.
>
> It's "jointer", not "joiner". =A0A flat sanding disc will leave arcs on t=
he
> wood. =A0If the disc is tapered and then tilted so it is vertical, only a
> small area of the disc touches the wood, thus eliminating the arcs. =A0Th=
is
> gives a smooth edge. =A0A jointer leaves machining ripples on the edge so
> still needs a little sanding - the disc does not.

> That said, it's often easier to sand or plane out the ripples than it is
> to set up the sanding disc on the table saw :-). =A0

You do realize that I bought a Disc Sander, not a Sanding Disk, right?

http://www.harborfreight.com/10-inch-bench-top-disc-sander-47404.html





> Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

On Mar 28, 3:47=A0pm, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
>
>
>
>
> > Doug Miller wrote:
> >> In article
> >> <5b521766-a3cd-44cf-960b-0e6bb0ffb...@o30g2000pra.googlegroups.com>,
> >> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >>> Is my disc tapered because it was designed that way or is my disc
> >>> tapered due to poor workmanship?
>
> >> You bought it at Harbor Freight. You paid 80 bucks. Do you *really*
> >> need to
> >> ask that question? :-)
>
> >>> Since there certainly appears to be an "object" known as a tapered
> >>> disc, could it be that this is what comes with the HF Disc Sander or
> >>> are tapered discs only used on table saws?
>
> >> Obviously that's "what comes with the HF Disc Sander" -- the question
> >> is
> >> whether it's intentionally so.
>
> >> Seriously, though: the disc should be flat. Maybe not dead flat -- a
> >> disk
> >> sander is not, after all, a precision tool -- but it should *not* be
> >> out by 1/16" across an 8" disk.
>
> > Actually there is quite a bit of information on the net about why a
> > sanding disk should be tapered. =A0So far, I haven't seen anything that
> > really answered the OP's question, other than opinions about HF, and so=
me
> > well intended guesses. =A0The one advantage that a tapered disk holds o=
ver a
> > flat disk is that it allows you to feed stock in as if you were ripping
> > it - which you could not do with a flat disk. =A0I'm not so sure at all=
that
> > it should not be 1/16th of an inch across its surface.
>
> I can assure you that a bench top disk sander sands in the wrong dirrecti=
on
> for feeding stock as if you were ripping it. =A0One on a TS is a differen=
t
> matter but this is a sander where you feed the stock pretty much into the
> disk at a 90 degree angle. =A0You want to use this machine for shaping cu=
rves.
> or angles.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

re: "You want to use this machine for shaping curves or angles."

Which is specifically why I purchased it and also why I don't think
the "taper" impacts the *main* task I'll use the machine for.

That said, *if* it a bench top disc sander could be used for other
purposes (e.g. jointing) and the taper is going to prevent that, then
perhaps I need to "upgrade".

On Mar 27, 10:28=A0am, Larry Jaques <[email protected]>
wrote:
> On Sat, 26 Mar 2011 19:18:53 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
>
> <[email protected]> wrote:
> >I just bought a Harbor Freight 10" Disc Sander.
>
> >If I place a straight edge across the face of the disc, it's not flat.
> >It is "higher" in the center of the disc, i.e. the straight edge rocks
> >from side to side. With the straight edge held flat against the one
> >side of the face, there's about a 1/16"gap at the opposite edge of the
> >disc.
>
> Does it wobble, too? =A0I'd return it.

No wobble at all. I would have already returned it if it did.

> >I'm new to disc sanders, so I'm not sure if this is an issue or not.
>
> If you're trying to flatten a surface, it will be a big issue.

Now I'm really confused. Some say that it's a beveled disk and can be
used as a joiner, you say it's an issue if I try to use it to flatten
a surface. Isn't a joiner used to flatten a surface (edge) for gluing?

> >Thanks for your comments on this situation.
>
> Some choices:
>
> 1) Return it to HF and measure the other models they have in stock,
> taking the best one.

A fine suggestion, if I feel like taking the plastic straps off the
boxes, cutting the packing tape, removing the packing foam, lifting
the units out of their boxes and taking them out of the plastic bag.
Then, after checking each disk - 'cuz I'm a nice guy - reversing the
whole process and packing them all up again. ;-)

> 2) Return it and try one of their 12" models for $35 more. If you used
> a 20% off coupon, be sure they apply that discount to the new purchase
> price.

Why would switching to a 12" model ensure that I would get a flat
disc?

>
> 3) Return it and call Grizzly. =A0Have them ensure that you'll get a
> flat one if you order from them, then order it there.http://www.grizzly.c=
om/products/12-Disc-Sander/G729712"
> I get $191.65 as a delivered price to Oregon. =A0YMMV.

That's a bit high for my needs. $89.99 - $20 (on a $100) purchase fit
my budget (and gift cards).

As far as what I plan to use it for (mostly rounding the corners on
wood (and aluminum) stock) the "bevel" might not be an issue since
I'll really just be using the down stroke side of the disc anyway.

I'm really just curious if that's how it's supposed to be.

>
> G'luck!

Thanks!

"DerbyDad03" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:06c2a242-20c5-4704-a073-3c4f8c36a404@ed10g2000vbb.googlegroups.com...
On Mar 29, 7:16 pm, Larry Blanchard <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Tue, 29 Mar 2011 15:20:31 -0500, Leon wrote:
> > ;~) But the topic of the OP is a disk sander not an accessory for a TS.
>
> Leon, the OP wanted to know why his disc was tapered. We told him. I
> also said that *if* his disc sander tilted like a table saw and *if* he
> could rig up a rip fence, he could use it as if it were a table saw.
>
> If not, turn the disc around, if possible, and use the flat side. If
> both sides are tapered, take it back :-).
>
> --
> Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

That's the part the I don't get.

If you look at the table in the link below, you'll notice a lever on
the side of the table. There's one on both sides.

Loosen them and you can tilt the table down to 45 degrees max.

Even tilting the table is not enough as that does not chang the dirrection
that the disk contacts the wood, you would also have to raise the table to
the upper half of the disk in addition to tilting the table. Disk sanders
tables are below and remain below the center point of the disk which makes a
parallel with the table scratch patten impossible with out modifications.




http://www.harborfreight.com/10-inch-bench-top-disc-sander-47404.html

I'm not sure how a fence enters into this. What would I be doing with
the fence and a tilted table?

Extensive modifications or jigs.

"Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>, "Leon"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>"HeyBub" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>news:[email protected]...
>>> Leon wrote:
>>>>
>>>> A jointer normally produces a finished surface.... A disk sander
>>>> machine
>>>> is going to produce scratches against the grain.
>>>
>>> Uh, yeah - microscopic ones.
>>
>>Most all disk sander I have seen and mine that I use are using 80 grit or
>>more coarse. Absolutley not microscopic.
>
> You do know there are finer grits available, right? :-)

Yes and I have a finer grit, I have had it for about 4 years and have never
seen the need to use other than the one that came on the sander. ;~) I
guess you could say that I bought the finer grit before I knew better. You
have to sand again to smooth out the against the grain marks regardless of
what grit you use, you might as well use a coarse grit and get the shaping
done with.

"Larry Blanchard" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Tue, 29 Mar 2011 10:11:57 -0500, dadiOH wrote:
>
>> Here's a better diagram...
>> http://woodworker.com/fullpres.asp?PARTNUM=95-430&LARGEVIEW=ON
>
> Now that would have saved me a lot of typing! I looked at Woodcraft but
> couldn't find anything on their website.
>
> Anyone who doesn't understand the concept after looking at those diagrams
> should take up a different hobby :-).


;~) But the topic of the OP is a disk sander not an accessory for a TS.

"HeyBub" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> DerbyDad03 wrote:
>> I just bought a Harbor Freight 10" Disc Sander.
>>
>> If I place a straight edge across the face of the disc,
>> it's not flat.
>> It is "higher" in the center of the disc, i.e. the
>> straight edge rocks
>> from side to side. With the straight edge held flat
>> against the one
>> side of the face, there's about a 1/16"gap at the
>> opposite edge of the
>> disc.
>>
>> I'm new to disc sanders, so I'm not sure if this is an
>> issue or not.
>>
>> Thanks for your comments on this situation.
>
> It's called a beveled disk.
>
> If you think on it, you'll see that the center of a
> rotating disk moves much less abrasive against the work
> than the outer edges. The beveled edge evens out the
> contact. If you push a piece of work against the entire
> surface, the parts of the work in contact with the outer
> edges of the disk will have more material removed than the
> center.
>
> Also a beveled disk allows you to use a disk sander as a
> joiner.

HB:

Brilliant observation. Any point on the disc travels and
cuts faster
as it is more distant from the center, which the taper
adjusts for.

An inventory of the varying utility of the disc
configurations Lew
mentioned would be illuminating.

Regards,

Edward Hennessey

DerbyDad03 wrote:
> I just bought a Harbor Freight 10" Disc Sander.
>
> If I place a straight edge across the face of the disc, it's not flat.
> It is "higher" in the center of the disc, i.e. the straight edge rocks
> from side to side. With the straight edge held flat against the one
> side of the face, there's about a 1/16"gap at the opposite edge of the
> disc.
>
> I'm new to disc sanders, so I'm not sure if this is an issue or not.
>
> Thanks for your comments on this situation.

It's called a beveled disk.

If you think on it, you'll see that the center of a rotating disk moves much
less abrasive against the work than the outer edges. The beveled edge evens
out the contact. If you push a piece of work against the entire surface, the
parts of the work in contact with the outer edges of the disk will have more
material removed than the center.

Also a beveled disk allows you to use a disk sander as a joiner.

Yep used a couple of bought in items, and built more out of surplus motors &
bits-n-bobs. Done some quite "odd" jobs, like building a spring-loaded
stopped slider to make accurately sized disks in large-ish batch numbers.l
Howeve I confess that I never thought of using them for jointing, I always
used a Festool saw & track for that.

Have a great day-week-month...............



"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Oz" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> You do not need to tilt the disk, if you have a tilting table! I have
>> NEVER had a disk sander that did not have a tilting table, and checking
>> the HF site shows that theirs are no exception.
>>
>> This sander is ideal for the OP's original task, and for his other
>> possible uses, with the disk set vertical. It came at the right price and
>> time, use it I say and damn the doubters!
>>
>> All the Best, Oz.
>
> Sure the table tilts, but it would also have to raise or lower to the
> outer edge of the disk so that the disk paper would not burn and or the
> taks not take an eternity. Do you actually use a disk sander? I see that
> you have apparently has more than one but I wonder.
>

"HeyBub" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Leon wrote:
>> "HeyBub" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>>>
>>>> re: "You want to use this machine for shaping curves or angles."
>>>>
>>>> Which is specifically why I purchased it and also why I don't think
>>>> the "taper" impacts the *main* task I'll use the machine for.
>>>>
>>>> That said, *if* it a bench top disc sander could be used for other
>>>> purposes (e.g. jointing) and the taper is going to prevent that,
>>>> then perhaps I need to "upgrade".
>>>
>>> It's the taper that PERMITS using the sander as a jointer.
>>>
>>
>> A jointer normally produces a finished surface.... A disk sander machine
>> is going to produce scratches against the grain.
>
> Uh, yeah - microscopic ones.

Most all disk sander I have seen and mine that I use are using 80 grit or
more coarse. Absolutley not microscopic.


>
> Besides, the edge is usually glued to another edge, so who cares if there
> are invisible scratches?

You think? Do your projects not have any edges that show?

"HeyBub" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Leon wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Most all disk sander I have seen and mine that I use are using 80
>>>> grit or more coarse. Absolutley not microscopic.
>>>
>>> You do know there are finer grits available, right? :-)
>>
>> Yes and I have a finer grit, I have had it for about 4 years and have
>> never seen the need to use other than the one that came on the
>> sander. ;~) I guess you could say that I bought the finer grit
>> before I knew better. You have to sand again to smooth out the
>> against the grain marks regardless of what grit you use, you might as
>> well use a coarse grit and get the shaping done with.
>
> Not if you have a tapered disk. . .


If you use the same set up as the OP, a dedicated disk sander, it is not
possible with out drastic alterations or complicated jigs to use a tapered
disk on in that manner. Remeber, the OP is questioning HIS particular set
up, not a ShopSmith arrangement.

"Mac Davis" <[email protected]> wrote in
message news:[email protected]...
> On Sun, 27 Mar 2011 16:39:34 -0700, "Edward Hennessey"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>Agreed. Wouldn't that be the procedure? If not--and
>>you are using a flat disc and flat piece of wood--what
>>would the effect of the differential speed
>>of the disc at points progressively further from the
>>center be on the piece sanded?
>>
>>I have a tribe of different
>>sanding machines but since no fixed-disc, stationary
>>unit is among them, it would be worthwhile to
>>a have the benefit of experienced understanding which
>>relates to my earlier inquiry about the use of discs
>>of varying profiles.
>>
>>Regards,
>>
>>Edward Hennessey
>>>
>>> --
>>> Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw
>>
> In my experience, (12" disk on shopsmith), you have 2
> methods of
> sanding, puching between fence nd disk and moving the disk
> towards the
> fence for squaring or getting uniform lengh...
> If you're running the stock between the disk and fence, as
> you would
> through a table saw, I can't see where spped at any point
> of the disk
> is relevent because you're pushing the stock past the
> entire disk,
> right??

MD:

The thread somewhere took a subtle jog from the OP's (and
my)
interest in a separate machine driving a sanding disc where
contact
across the total face may be desired to a table saw mounting
a disc.

Apart, we agree on your point. I hope Baja is being good to
you.

Regards,

Edward Hennessey

DerbyDad03 wrote:
>
> re: "You want to use this machine for shaping curves or angles."
>
> Which is specifically why I purchased it and also why I don't think
> the "taper" impacts the *main* task I'll use the machine for.
>
> That said, *if* it a bench top disc sander could be used for other
> purposes (e.g. jointing) and the taper is going to prevent that, then
> perhaps I need to "upgrade".

It's the taper that PERMITS using the sander as a jointer.

"DerbyDad03" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:21aa9a2a-8b1e-47d6-98cb-8b1898d1f0f0@a11g2000pri.googlegroups.com...
On Mar 28, 4:22 pm, DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Mar 28, 3:47 pm, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > "Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in
> > message
>
> >news:[email protected]...
>
> > > Doug Miller wrote:
> > >> In article
> > >> <5b521766-a3cd-44cf-960b-0e6bb0ffb...@o30g2000pra.googlegroups.com>,
> > >> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > >>> Is my disc tapered because it was designed that way
> > >>> or is my disc
> > >>> tapered due to poor workmanship?
>
> > >> You bought it at Harbor Freight. You paid 80 bucks.
> > >> Do you *really*
> > >> need to
> > >> ask that question? :-)
>
> > >>> Since there certainly appears to be an "object"
> > >>> known as a tapered
> > >>> disc, could it be that this is what comes with the
> > >>> HF Disc Sander or
> > >>> are tapered discs only used on table saws?
>
> > >> Obviously that's "what comes with the HF Disc
> > >> Sander" -- the question
> > >> is
> > >> whether it's intentionally so.
>
> > >> Seriously, though: the disc should be flat. Maybe not
> > >> dead flat -- a
> > >> disk
> > >> sander is not, after all, a precision tool -- but it
> > >> should *not* be
> > >> out by 1/16" across an 8" disk.
>
> > > Actually there is quite a bit of information on the
> > > net about why a
> > > sanding disk should be tapered. So far, I haven't seen
> > > anything that
> > > really answered the OP's question, other than opinions
> > > about HF, and some
> > > well intended guesses. The one advantage that a
> > > tapered disk holds over a
> > > flat disk is that it allows you to feed stock in as if
> > > you were ripping
> > > it - which you could not do with a flat disk. I'm not
> > > so sure at all that
> > > it should not be 1/16th of an inch across its surface.
>
> > I can assure you that a bench top disk sander sands in
> > the wrong dirrection
> > for feeding stock as if you were ripping it. One on a TS
> > is a different
> > matter but this is a sander where you feed the stock
> > pretty much into the
> > disk at a 90 degree angle. You want to use this machine
> > for shaping curves.
> > or angles.- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -
>
> re: "You want to use this machine for shaping curves or
> angles."
>
> Which is specifically why I purchased it and also why I
> don't think
> the "taper" impacts the *main* task I'll use the machine
> for.
>
> That said, *if* it a bench top disc sander could be used
> for other
> purposes (e.g. jointing) and the taper is going to prevent
> that, then
> perhaps I need to "upgrade".- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

FYI...the main purpose for this machine (at this time) is
for rounding
the corners of 1/4" x 1" flat aluminum stock. Essentially
turning
rectangles into long ovals.

I make brake mechanisms for Soap Box Derby cars and each
brake
requires 4 pieces of 1" flat stock of various lengths, for a
total of
16 corners that need to be rounded to a specific radius. (I
have a
spool of thread that gives me the perfect radius on the 1"
stock)

I started rounding the corners with my bench grinder, but
that
resulted in too much heat (read: too much melted aluminum
that needed
to be filed smooth)

I then tried my belt sander secured to my workbench in a
jig - which
worked much better than the grinder - but holding the pieces
by hand
was still cumbersome and tiring.

That led me to the benchtop disc sander and it's built in
table. With
80 grit sandpaper, the corners round off very quickly and
then a quick
touch-up with a worn belt on my belt sander removes all the
sanding
marks from the stock.

That's why I say that the taper is not an issue - for this
task - but
if I'm limited by the taper from using the machine for other
tasks
that a bench top disk sander is normally used for, then I
might
consider replacing it.

DD:

This may sound delirious but I would call HF customer
service and ask to speak to someone informed about the
problem/concerns that may exist here. Whether you make that
informative contact depends on your approach and existence
of such a person available directly or by email.

If you ever stray to www.jobvent.com you can learn a lot
about
HF and many other enterprises. In general, people are not
particularly
satisfied at the firm. Nonetheless, HF does have folk pretty
hep
about products they have a volume experience with.

My results, calling
early in the morning before caustic customers take their
toll, talking in an
informed and sympathetic way about their job (abetted by
what
jobvent has clued) have been good. The same goes for store
service
on their standard product guarantee and reasonable
considerations
extended beyond that timeline without the purchase of their
pricey and profitable extended warranty program.

This may not work for everyone and it will not always work
with a misgiven frontline respondent. But few people have
abusing the customers they depend on as their goal nor do
reflexively flush constructive feedback that would help them
sell more and make more money.

What's the risk? Fifteen minutes?

Regards,

Edward Hennessey

"Larry Blanchard" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sun, 27 Mar 2011 20:30:50 -0700, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>
>> You do realize that I bought a Disc Sander, not a Sanding Disk, right?
>
> Yes I do. If either the table or the disc tilts you can use it just as I
> described by setting up a rip fence of some sort. If no tilt, then you
> can't use it as a jointer and should have a flat disc.


IF you use the bench top sander which sands in the middle of the disk to
sand the edge of the wood with the aid of some sort of rip fence, WHAT do
you use to remove the sanding marks that will resulf. The scratch pattern
will be 90 degreed to the grain dirrection.

"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Doug Miller wrote:
>> In article
>> <5b521766-a3cd-44cf-960b-0e6bb0ffbf03@o30g2000pra.googlegroups.com>,
>> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> Is my disc tapered because it was designed that way or is my disc
>>> tapered due to poor workmanship?
>>
>> You bought it at Harbor Freight. You paid 80 bucks. Do you *really*
>> need to
>> ask that question? :-)
>>>
>>> Since there certainly appears to be an "object" known as a tapered
>>> disc, could it be that this is what comes with the HF Disc Sander or
>>> are tapered discs only used on table saws?
>>
>> Obviously that's "what comes with the HF Disc Sander" -- the question
>> is
>> whether it's intentionally so.
>>
>> Seriously, though: the disc should be flat. Maybe not dead flat -- a
>> disk
>> sander is not, after all, a precision tool -- but it should *not* be
>> out by 1/16" across an 8" disk.
>
> Actually there is quite a bit of information on the net about why a
> sanding disk should be tapered. So far, I haven't seen anything that
> really answered the OP's question, other than opinions about HF, and some
> well intended guesses. The one advantage that a tapered disk holds over a
> flat disk is that it allows you to feed stock in as if you were ripping
> it - which you could not do with a flat disk. I'm not so sure at all that
> it should not be 1/16th of an inch across its surface.

I can assure you that a bench top disk sander sands in the wrong dirrection
for feeding stock as if you were ripping it. One on a TS is a different
matter but this is a sander where you feed the stock pretty much into the
disk at a 90 degree angle. You want to use this machine for shaping curves.
or angles.

On Mar 28, 9:37=A0pm, "Josepi" <[email protected]> wrote:

> You may find the 12" sanding disks easier to find in stores.


At least for now, HF carries 10" discs in multi packs:

http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-10-inch-cloth-backed-psa-sanding-disc-=
set-3727.html

> Also the conical surface may be difficult to stick flat sanding disk onto
> without wrinkles.

I haven't tried attaching a sheet on my own, but the 80 grit that came
installed on the unit is perfectly flat.

We'll see.

> ---------------
>
> Why would switching to a 12" model ensure that I would get a flat
> disc?

I would take it back. I had a disk sander made at a local machine shop years
ago and from the way I use it, have used it, and have used other disc
sanders, it would be almost useless and screw my wood machining up.

Sometimes you need/ want the whole width of the wood to be completely flat
and I have no other awareness of why you would want a cone peak in the
centre. This makes it a half diameter disc size from what you paid for in my
book. To shear off the back of a box or similar wide wood piece you would
need to run the piece across the surface and risk waves in you work as you
hit harder and softer pieces to sand. Try planing a door edge completely
flat with a 8" long plane. Similar thing and you pay for size just like the
women that hire you....LOL


----------------


"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
news:5b521766-a3cd-44cf-960b-0e6bb0ffbf03@o30g2000pra.googlegroups.com...
That said, I'm still not sure what I got.

All other things quality-related being what they are, this question is
still on the table (no pun intended):

Is my disc tapered because it was designed that way or is my disc
tapered due to poor workmanship?

Since there certainly appears to be an "object" known as a tapered
disc, could it be that this is what comes with the HF Disc Sander or
are tapered discs only used on table saws?

You do not need to tilt the disk, if you have a tilting table! I have NEVER
had a disk sander that did not have a tilting table, and checking the HF
site shows that theirs are no exception.

This sander is ideal for the OP's original task, and for his other possible
uses, with the disk set vertical. It came at the right price and time, use
it I say and damn the doubters!

All the Best, Oz.





"dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Leon wrote:
>> "HeyBub" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>>>
>>>> re: "You want to use this machine for shaping curves or angles."
>>>>
>>>> Which is specifically why I purchased it and also why I don't think
>>>> the "taper" impacts the *main* task I'll use the machine for.
>>>>
>>>> That said, *if* it a bench top disc sander could be used for other
>>>> purposes (e.g. jointing) and the taper is going to prevent that,
>>>> then perhaps I need to "upgrade".
>>>
>>> It's the taper that PERMITS using the sander as a jointer.
>>>
>>
>> A jointer normally produces a finished surface.... A disk sander machine
>> is going to produce scratches against the grain.
>
> Not if the disc is tapered. Only the very small part of the disc that is
> in contact with the wood is sanding and that part is moving parallel to
> the wood. However, the disc has to be tilted so the taper is vertical and
> I've never seen a dedicated disk sander where that is possible; saws, yes;
> disc sanders, no.
>
> --
>
> dadiOH
> ____________________________
>
> dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
> ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
> LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
> Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
>
>
>
>

"dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Leon wrote:
>> "HeyBub" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>>>
>>>> re: "You want to use this machine for shaping curves or angles."
>>>>
>>>> Which is specifically why I purchased it and also why I don't think
>>>> the "taper" impacts the *main* task I'll use the machine for.
>>>>
>>>> That said, *if* it a bench top disc sander could be used for other
>>>> purposes (e.g. jointing) and the taper is going to prevent that,
>>>> then perhaps I need to "upgrade".
>>>
>>> It's the taper that PERMITS using the sander as a jointer.
>>>
>>
>> A jointer normally produces a finished surface.... A disk sander machine
>> is going to produce scratches against the grain.
>
> Not if the disc is tapered. Only the very small part of the disc that is
> in contact with the wood is sanding and that part is moving parallel to
> the wood. However, the disc has to be tilted so the taper is vertical and
> I've never seen a dedicated disk sander where that is possible; saws, yes;
> disc sanders, no.


Totally agree however the OP has and is talking about a disk sander.

Doug Miller wrote:
> In article
> <5b521766-a3cd-44cf-960b-0e6bb0ffbf03@o30g2000pra.googlegroups.com>,
> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Is my disc tapered because it was designed that way or is my disc
>> tapered due to poor workmanship?
>
> You bought it at Harbor Freight. You paid 80 bucks. Do you *really*
> need to
> ask that question? :-)
>>
>> Since there certainly appears to be an "object" known as a tapered
>> disc, could it be that this is what comes with the HF Disc Sander or
>> are tapered discs only used on table saws?
>
> Obviously that's "what comes with the HF Disc Sander" -- the question
> is
> whether it's intentionally so.
>
> Seriously, though: the disc should be flat. Maybe not dead flat -- a
> disk
> sander is not, after all, a precision tool -- but it should *not* be
> out by 1/16" across an 8" disk.

Actually there is quite a bit of information on the net about why a sanding
disk should be tapered. So far, I haven't seen anything that really
answered the OP's question, other than opinions about HF, and some well
intended guesses. The one advantage that a tapered disk holds over a flat
disk is that it allows you to feed stock in as if you were ripping it -
which you could not do with a flat disk. I'm not so sure at all that it
should not be 1/16th of an inch across its surface.


--

-Mike-
[email protected]

"Larry Blanchard" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Mon, 28 Mar 2011 14:51:20 -0500, Leon wrote:
>
>> "Larry Blanchard" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> On Sun, 27 Mar 2011 20:30:50 -0700, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>>
>>>> You do realize that I bought a Disc Sander, not a Sanding Disk, right?
>>>
>>> Yes I do. If either the table or the disc tilts you can use it just as
>>> I described by setting up a rip fence of some sort. If no tilt, then
>>> you can't use it as a jointer and should have a flat disc.
>>
>>
>> IF you use the bench top sander which sands in the middle of the disk to
>> sand the edge of the wood with the aid of some sort of rip fence, WHAT
>> do you use to remove the sanding marks that will resulf. The scratch
>> pattern will be 90 degreed to the grain dirrection.
>
> This is turning into a seminar :-).
>
> If you take a tapered disc and tilt it so that the taper is perpendicular
> to the table, the only part that touches the wood is a thin vertical
> slice. That slice is moving parallel to the table and to the grain. Yes,
> there's a very slight arc - a few degrees - pretty much invisible.
>

On a bench top sander??? Table does tilt but does not elevate or lower so
that the dirrection of disk never gets close to the grain dirrection. On a
TS that is a different matter.

On Mar 30, 3:41=A0am, "Lobby Dosser" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Larry Blanchard" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
> > On Tue, 29 Mar 2011 15:20:31 -0500, Leon wrote:
>
> >> ;~) =A0But the topic of the OP is a disk sander not an accessory for a=
TS.
>
> > Leon, the OP wanted to know why his disc was tapered. =A0We told him. =
=A0I
> > also said that *if* his disc sander tilted like a table saw and *if* he
> > could rig up a rip fence, he could use it as if it were a table saw.
>
> > If not, turn the disc around, if possible, and use the flat side. =A0If
> > both sides are tapered, take it back :-).
>
> Another possibility is the OP did not measure correctly. Many, many years
> ago I bought a brand new Delta bench top bandsaw. When I first went to us=
e
> it I discovered the table was warped (aluminum) and called Delta who sent=
me
> a brand new table. The new table was also warped and it took me some time=
to
> discover that it was my checking that was warped and Both tables were fin=
e.
> Delta were very gracious about it and told me to just keep the second as =
a
> spare or to use for something else.

re: Another possibility is the OP did not measure correctly.

What method did you use that led you to suspect that your bandsaw
tables were warped?

I simply laid the ruler from my combination square across the face of
the disk at the center. It rocked back and forth, so I pressed it
firmly against one side and viewed the gap at the outside edge on the
other side, estimating it to be about 1/16".

I rotated the disk 90 degrees, checked it again and it was the same.
When using the sander, there is no wobble or bumping, so a consistant
taper makes sense.

Last night I did my best to measure the gap by inserting a thin piece
of material into the gap and measuring it with my calipers. It's a bit
under 1/16", but not much.

Maybe if I remove the paper and check the actual disk, things might
read differently. While it doesn't appear that the paper is the issue,
I won't rule it out until I actually check the bare disk.

On Sun, 27 Mar 2011 16:39:34 -0700, "Edward Hennessey"
<[email protected]> wrote:


>Agreed. Wouldn't that be the procedure? If not--and
>you are using a flat disc and flat piece of wood--what
>would the effect of the differential speed
>of the disc at points progressively further from the
>center be on the piece sanded?
>
>I have a tribe of different
>sanding machines but since no fixed-disc, stationary
>unit is among them, it would be worthwhile to
>a have the benefit of experienced understanding which
>relates to my earlier inquiry about the use of discs
>of varying profiles.
>
>Regards,
>
>Edward Hennessey
>>
>> --
>> Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw
>
In my experience, (12" disk on shopsmith), you have 2 methods of
sanding, puching between fence nd disk and moving the disk towards the
fence for squaring or getting uniform lengh...
If you're running the stock between the disk and fence, as you would
through a table saw, I can't see where spped at any point of the disk
is relevent because you're pushing the stock past the entire disk,
right??

"Larry Blanchard" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Tue, 29 Mar 2011 15:20:31 -0500, Leon wrote:
>
>> ;~) But the topic of the OP is a disk sander not an accessory for a TS.
>
> Leon, the OP wanted to know why his disc was tapered. We told him. I
> also said that *if* his disc sander tilted like a table saw and *if* he
> could rig up a rip fence, he could use it as if it were a table saw.

Do you know of any disk sander that "tilts" like a TS and or one that
permits you to use the upper surface of the dish rather than the center? I
agree with you if something like this actually existed, and it may, but I
don't see a reason to explain how something would work on something that
probably does not exist as far as disk sanders are concerned.



> If not, turn the disc around, if possible, and use the flat side. If
> both sides are tapered, take it back :-).

Hoping that your smiley is for both comments, as it is impossible to turn a
disk sander disk around.;~)




>
> --
> Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

On Sat, 26 Mar 2011 19:18:53 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
<[email protected]> wrote:

>I just bought a Harbor Freight 10" Disc Sander.
>
>If I place a straight edge across the face of the disc, it's not flat.
>It is "higher" in the center of the disc, i.e. the straight edge rocks
>from side to side. With the straight edge held flat against the one
>side of the face, there's about a 1/16"gap at the opposite edge of the
>disc.

Does it wobble, too? I'd return it.


>I'm new to disc sanders, so I'm not sure if this is an issue or not.

If you're trying to flatten a surface, it will be a big issue.


>Thanks for your comments on this situation.

Some choices:

1) Return it to HF and measure the other models they have in stock,
taking the best one.

2) Return it and try one of their 12" models for $35 more. If you used
a 20% off coupon, be sure they apply that discount to the new purchase
price.

3) Return it and call Grizzly. Have them ensure that you'll get a
flat one if you order from them, then order it there.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/12-Disc-Sander/G7297 12"
I get $191.65 as a delivered price to Oregon. YMMV.

G'luck!

--
Make the best use of what is in your power,
and take the rest as it happens.
-- Epictetus

Leon wrote:
> "Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...

>>
>> Actually there is quite a bit of information on the net about why a
>> sanding disk should be tapered. So far, I haven't seen anything that
>> really answered the OP's question, other than opinions about HF, and
>> some well intended guesses. The one advantage that a tapered disk
>> holds over a flat disk is that it allows you to feed stock in as if
>> you were ripping it - which you could not do with a flat disk. I'm
>> not so sure at all that it should not be 1/16th of an inch across
>> its surface.
>
> I can assure you that a bench top disk sander sands in the wrong
> dirrection for feeding stock as if you were ripping it. One on a TS
> is a different matter but this is a sander where you feed the stock
> pretty much into the disk at a 90 degree angle. You want to use this
> machine for shaping curves. or angles.

Thanks Leon. I've spent a bit of time today, digging into this a bit (only
a bit...), and I can see your point. Interestingly, manufacturers of all
sorts of disk sanding equipment seem to provide both tapered and non-tapered
disks. Appears there is some good reason for both. I don't own one, so I
can't speak from any experiences, but I've been interested in watching this
thread unfold.

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

On Mar 29, 11:08=A0am, "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote:
> DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > I just bought a Harbor Freight 10" Disc Sander.
>
> > If I place a straight edge across the face of the disc, it's not flat.
> > It is "higher" in the center of the disc, i.e. the straight edge rocks
> > from side to side. With the straight edge held flat against the one
> > side of the face, there's about a 1/16"gap at the opposite edge of the
> > disc.

> Sudden thought: =A0Is the back of the plate flat?

Dunno. The back of the plate is covered by the housing of the unit.

http://www.harborfreight.com/10-inch-bench-top-disc-sander-47404.html

That blue "ring" around the disk extends in a bowl-like manner down to
the motor housing, where it appears to be welded right to the motor
housing, so the back of the plate is not accessible .

There may be a bolt under the sandpaper itself that allows the plate
to be removed, but if so, I think I'd have to remove the table and
dust collection housing before the disk could be removed. Not sure,
but I'm not into tearing the unit apart right now.

Maybe if I decide to return it, I'll take it apart just before I do.
<g>

On Apr 8, 1:09=A0am, "Lobby Dosser" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Larry Blanchard" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
> > On Thu, 07 Apr 2011 23:48:22 +0100, Oz wrote:
>
> >> You do not need to tilt the disk, if you have a tilting table! I have
> >> NEVER had a disk sander that did not have a tilting table, and checkin=
g
> >> the HF site shows that theirs are no exception.
>
> > But it has to tilt in the right direction :-).
>
> > At least to utilize the "jointing" ability of a tapered disk. =A0It app=
ears
> > that the HF table only tilts away from the disk.


> Can it be lowered?

No. Well, at least it's not designed to be lowered. I'm sure that
with a big enough hammer, I could lower it. <g>

However, the table does come off completely fairly easily, so I guess
if one wanted to they could make an auxiliary table that would sit in
front of the unit at whatever height was necessary to use the sander
as a jointer.

To play on the old slogan of Con Ed:

"Jig we must"

On Sun, 27 Mar 2011 23:30:09 +0000 (UTC), Larry Blanchard
<[email protected]> wrote:

>On Sun, 27 Mar 2011 12:47:12 -0700, Edward Hennessey wrote:
>
>> Brilliant observation. Any point on the disc travels and cuts faster as
>> it is more distant from the center, which the taper adjusts for.
>
>With a rigid disc, only the high part ever contacts the wood unless you
>run it through at an angle corresponding to the taper.

...and then only if it's a flat taper, not a crown.

--
If the only prayer you ever say in your whole
life is "thank you," that would suffice.
-- Meister Eckhart

DerbyDad03 wrote:

> I just bought a Harbor Freight 10" Disc Sander.
>
> If I place a straight edge across the face of the disc, it's not flat.
> It is "higher" in the center of the disc, i.e. the straight edge rocks
> from side to side. With the straight edge held flat against the one
> side of the face, there's about a 1/16"gap at the opposite edge of the
> disc.
>
> I'm new to disc sanders, so I'm not sure if this is an issue or not.
>
> Thanks for your comments on this situation.

Its an issue. But then its Harbor Freight, I'd return it and bring your
straight edge with you if your planning on buying another from them.

--
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"

Man. 2010.1 Spring
KDE4.4
2.6.33.5-desktop-2mnb

On Sat, 26 Mar 2011 20:15:51 -0700, Lew Hodgett wrote:

> You can even find a 10" sanding disc that is designed to fit a table saw
> that is tapered on one face and flat on the opposite face.
>
> Supposedly the tapered face is designed to produce a jointed edge.

But that only works if you can tilt the disc slightly. I doubt the HF
sander has that capability.

I have a tapered disc for my tablesaw. Tilting it to remove the taper so
that only a small arc touches the wood, and using the rip fence, I can
get a pretty smooth edge.

But unless I've got several pieces to do it's more trouble to set it up
than it's worth.



--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

On 3/27/2011 4:32 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
...

> How does one use a disc sander as "joiner"? I'm just not seeing that.

Simply set up a slight angle and run the opposite edge along the disk
against the fence and you'll end up w/ a sanded straight edge on the
other side -- a poor man's jointer if lacking one (or the obvious better
expedient of a hand plane).

--

On Sun, 27 Mar 2011 14:32:06 -0700, DerbyDad03 wrote:

> How does one use a disc sander as "joiner"? I'm just not seeing that.

It's "jointer", not "joiner". A flat sanding disc will leave arcs on the
wood. If the disc is tapered and then tilted so it is vertical, only a
small area of the disc touches the wood, thus eliminating the arcs. This
gives a smooth edge. A jointer leaves machining ripples on the edge so
still needs a little sanding - the disc does not.

That said, it's often easier to sand or plane out the ripples than it is
to set up the sanding disc on the table saw :-).

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

On Sun, 27 Mar 2011 12:47:12 -0700, Edward Hennessey wrote:

> Brilliant observation. Any point on the disc travels and cuts faster as
> it is more distant from the center, which the taper adjusts for.

With a rigid disc, only the high part ever contacts the wood unless you
run it through at an angle corresponding to the taper.

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

"dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> DerbyDad03 wrote:
>
>> As far as what I plan to use it for (mostly rounding the corners on
>> wood (and aluminum) stock) the "bevel" might not be an issue since
>> I'll really just be using the down stroke side of the disc anyway.
>
> So does everybody else. Never try to do so otherwise.
>
>> I'm really just curious if that's how it's supposed to be.
>
> Hard to say.
>
> The ones with a built in bevel are meant for saws where you can tilt the
> plate so the "bent" part is vertical; once done you don't have to worry
> about the board catching the leading edge of the disk (in addition to
> being able to join). The same holds true with your disk (except for the
> joining).
>
> I don't buy the idea about the edge being set back so it won't sand so
> fast...if it isn't touching the wood it isn't going to sand regardless of
> how much faster the edge is traveling relative to the center. Cute idea
> though.
>
> The center on mine is slightly higher too but not by 1/16, more like a
> RCH.

Have not heard that unit of measure used for about 40 years! Glad there are
still folks around who know the true measure of tolerance!

"Larry Jaques" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sun, 27 Mar 2011 12:28:31 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>On Mar 27, 10:28 am, Larry Jaques <[email protected]>
>>wrote:
>>> On Sat, 26 Mar 2011 19:18:53 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
>>>
>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> >I just bought a Harbor Freight 10" Disc Sander.
>>>
>>> >If I place a straight edge across the face of the disc, it's not flat.
>>> >It is "higher" in the center of the disc, i.e. the straight edge rocks
>>> >from side to side. With the straight edge held flat against the one
>>> >side of the face, there's about a 1/16"gap at the opposite edge of the
>>> >disc.
>>>
>>> Does it wobble, too? I'd return it.
>>
>>No wobble at all. I would have already returned it if it did.
>>
>>> >I'm new to disc sanders, so I'm not sure if this is an issue or not.
>>>
>>> If you're trying to flatten a surface, it will be a big issue.
>>
>>Now I'm really confused. Some say that it's a beveled disk and can be
>>used as a joiner, you say it's an issue if I try to use it to flatten
>>a surface. Isn't a joiner used to flatten a surface (edge) for gluing?
>
> "It's all in how you use the tool."
>
>
>>> >Thanks for your comments on this situation.
>>>
>>> Some choices:
>>>
>>> 1) Return it to HF and measure the other models they have in stock,
>>> taking the best one.
>>
>>A fine suggestion, if I feel like taking the plastic straps off the
>>boxes, cutting the packing tape, removing the packing foam, lifting
>>the units out of their boxes and taking them out of the plastic bag.
>>Then, after checking each disk - 'cuz I'm a nice guy - reversing the
>>whole process and packing them all up again. ;-)
>
> Yabbut, first you have to talk the HF knuckledraggers to bring them
> all down to you to check.
>
>
>>> 2) Return it and try one of their 12" models for $35 more. If you used
>>> a 20% off coupon, be sure they apply that discount to the new purchase
>>> price.
>>
>>Why would switching to a 12" model ensure that I would get a flat
>>disc?
>
> It might not, but the more expensive tools get closer scrutiny at all
> the Red Dragon Noodle and Machine Tool factories, don'tchaknow?
>
>
>>> 3) Return it and call Grizzly. Have them ensure that you'll get a
>>> flat one if you order from them, then order it
>>> there.http://www.grizzly.com/products/12-Disc-Sander/G729712"
>>> I get $191.65 as a delivered price to Oregon. YMMV.
>>
>>That's a bit high for my needs. $89.99 - $20 (on a $100) purchase fit
>>my budget (and gift cards).
>
> I hoped against hope that wasn't the case.
>
>
>>As far as what I plan to use it for (mostly rounding the corners on
>>wood (and aluminum) stock) the "bevel" might not be an issue since
>>I'll really just be using the down stroke side of the disc anyway.
>>
>>I'm really just curious if that's how it's supposed to be.
>
> What does the Japanese translator for the Chinglish translated booklet
> say about this parameter?
>
> If it's not, get a set of carbide lathe tools and a lathe manual so
> you can learn how to turn down the center to flat. ;)
>

That's it, just turn it down in place! Imagine it's a bowl lathe ....

In article <[email protected]>, "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"DerbyDad03" wrote:
>
>You do realize that I bought a Disc Sander, not a Sanding Disk, right?
>
>http://www.harborfreight.com/10-inch-bench-top-disc-sander-47404.html
>----------------------------
>I think what most realize is you got what you paid for.

Considering the quality of most of the stuff that Horrible Fright sells, I'm
not sure he got even that much.

In article <5b521766-a3cd-44cf-960b-0e6bb0ffbf03@o30g2000pra.googlegroups.com>, DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:

>Is my disc tapered because it was designed that way or is my disc
>tapered due to poor workmanship?

You bought it at Harbor Freight. You paid 80 bucks. Do you *really* need to
ask that question? :-)
>
>Since there certainly appears to be an "object" known as a tapered
>disc, could it be that this is what comes with the HF Disc Sander or
>are tapered discs only used on table saws?

Obviously that's "what comes with the HF Disc Sander" -- the question is
whether it's intentionally so.

Seriously, though: the disc should be flat. Maybe not dead flat -- a disk
sander is not, after all, a precision tool -- but it should *not* be out by
1/16" across an 8" disk.

On 3/28/2011 12:57 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
> In article<5b521766-a3cd-44cf-960b-0e6bb0ffbf03@o30g2000pra.googlegroups.com>, DerbyDad03<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Is my disc tapered because it was designed that way or is my disc
>> tapered due to poor workmanship?
>
> You bought it at Harbor Freight. You paid 80 bucks. Do you *really* need to
> ask that question? :-)

I refuse to let you guys worry me about the birdbath I recently bought
from Harbor Freight! If it can't hold water it's going back (and yes
there is a screw going right through the bottom of the bowl, with a
rubber washer)! Seriously though, I'd just repair that. I hope the
birds aren't too rough on it... ; )


>>
>> Since there certainly appears to be an "object" known as a tapered
>> disc, could it be that this is what comes with the HF Disc Sander or
>> are tapered discs only used on table saws?
>
> Obviously that's "what comes with the HF Disc Sander" -- the question is
> whether it's intentionally so.
>
> Seriously, though: the disc should be flat. Maybe not dead flat -- a disk
> sander is not, after all, a precision tool -- but it should *not* be out by
> 1/16" across an 8" disk.

On Sun, 27 Mar 2011 20:30:50 -0700, DerbyDad03 wrote:

> You do realize that I bought a Disc Sander, not a Sanding Disk, right?

Yes I do. If either the table or the disc tilts you can use it just as I
described by setting up a rip fence of some sort. If no tilt, then you
can't use it as a jointer and should have a flat disc.



--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw