"Bob Davis" wrote in message
> Out of curiosity, do you know if he was using a Timberwolf blade? My
dealer
> swears by them and claims he quit carrying all other brands when he
> discovered who good they are. He says they take less power and cut faster
> than other brands.
Timberwolf is about all I use on my 14" bandsaw. I have a fairly new 1/2" 3
tpi Timberwolf that I use strictly for resawing. I rarely resaw anything
over an 8" face width, but it does that very well with little or no drift. A
friend has a WoodSlicer on his that does an excellent job also, but with
decidely more drift ... however, drift is a property of each particular
blade, and another blade of either make may show more or less.
What I like about the TW, besides cutting ability, is a 'proper tension' on
their blades just happens to coincide within a turn or so of the factory
tension marks on my bandsaw ... which, because these are supposedly "low
tension" blades, doesn't say much for the ability to put proper tension on a
blade with many of today's 14" band saws.
IOW, TW blades seem to be easier to tension properly on a 14" band saw than
others I've tried.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 1/16/04
In rec.woodworking
"Alan Bierbaum" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I have resawed 11" maple on my 1 hp G0555 with no problems using a 1/2"
>timberwolf blade. Moved though at a good pace with no slowing of the motor.
>If I were only cutting 4/4 wood; I would (do) just use a good jigsaw.
For comparison, I was at a buddies resawing 6" 8/4 walnut this weekend on
his 18" Jet 1.5 HP. It was using a 1" with about 3 tpi and it would cut
about an inch a second, but you could bog it if you pushed hard enough.
In rec.woodworking
"Bob Davis" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Out of curiosity, do you know if he was using a Timberwolf blade? My dealer
>swears by them and claims he quit carrying all other brands when he
>discovered who good they are. He says they take less power and cut faster
>than other brands.
Bob, I'll find out tomorrow what kind of blade it was and let you know.
In rec.woodworking
"Alan Bierbaum" <[email protected]> wrote:
>The blade that I use is 3 TPI. I did not clock it, but I would say that 1"
>per second is about right without loading the motor. I could push hard/fast
>enough to bog the motor but was happy with the resaw speed without
>overloading the motor.
Alan, that is great to hear because I'm ordering a Grizzly Ultimate any day
now. Actually, our bonus is Feb 15th and that will be when I do it. I'm
really excited about it.
Out of curiosity, do you know if he was using a Timberwolf blade? My dealer
swears by them and claims he quit carrying all other brands when he
discovered who good they are. He says they take less power and cut faster
than other brands.
Bob
"Bruce" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In rec.woodworking
> "Alan Bierbaum" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >I have resawed 11" maple on my 1 hp G0555 with no problems using a 1/2"
> >timberwolf blade. Moved though at a good pace with no slowing of the
motor.
> >If I were only cutting 4/4 wood; I would (do) just use a good jigsaw.
>
> For comparison, I was at a buddies resawing 6" 8/4 walnut this weekend on
> his 18" Jet 1.5 HP. It was using a 1" with about 3 tpi and it would cut
> about an inch a second, but you could bog it if you pushed hard enough.
Wow, that's nice to know. I guess if I find I start to need that I can
always upgrade. Thanks for the info (Mike & Alan).
Mike
"Mike in Mystic" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've done it on pieces up to about 10" wide on maybe a half dozen
occasions.
> More often is the 6-8" dimensions. I haven't found the 1 HP machine to be
> too big of a liability - but I don't push it too hard and take my time. I
> also haven't been cutting extremely hard species, either. Mostly cherry
and
> walnut, and even some ash and pine. I did use it with some hard maple,
and
> that worked fine, too.
>
> Mike
These are added to allow more vertical capacity to the saw. For my Jet 14"
bandsaw and other similar ones, it is an extra cast iron piece that is added
where the arm meets the base. It simply raises up the whole upper wheet
housing 6" (IIRC). This doubled my resaw capacity from 6" to 12", which is
a very useful thing, IMO.
Mike
"NoNameAtAll" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I see a lot of references to riser kits for bandsaws, but I must confess
my
> ignorance. I have no idea what they're talking about. Can someone clue me
in?
Does that mean you'd need to buy a bigger blade since it essentially needs to
be 12" longer?
>These are added to allow more vertical capacity to the saw. For my Jet 14"
>bandsaw and other similar ones, it is an extra cast iron piece that is added
>where the arm meets the base. It simply raises up the whole upper wheet
>housing 6" (IIRC). This doubled my resaw capacity from 6" to 12", which is
>a very useful thing, IMO
yep.
"NoNameAtAll" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Does that mean you'd need to buy a bigger blade since it essentially needs
to
> be 12" longer?
>
> >These are added to allow more vertical capacity to the saw. For my Jet
14"
> >bandsaw and other similar ones, it is an extra cast iron piece that is
added
> >where the arm meets the base. It simply raises up the whole upper wheet
> >housing 6" (IIRC). This doubled my resaw capacity from 6" to 12", which
is
> >a very useful thing, IMO
"NoNameAtAll" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> Does that mean you'd need to buy a bigger blade since it essentially needs
to
> be 12" longer?
Yes - although several riser kits come with one blade to get you going.
IIRC, a common 14" bandsaw takes a 93 1/2" blade sans riser, and 105" with a
riser.
You'll see many bandsaw buyers buy the riser kit with the bandsaw to avoid
investing in several blades that will end up being too short.
I have resawed 11" maple on my 1 hp G0555 with no problems using a 1/2"
timberwolf blade. Moved though at a good pace with no slowing of the motor.
If I were only cutting 4/4 wood; I would (do) just use a good jigsaw.
--
Alan Bierbaum
Web Site: http://www.calanb.com
Recent Project Page: http://www.calanb.com/recent.html
Workbench project: http://www.calanb.com/wbench.html
"Mike in Idaho" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Mike,
> How often have you actually resawed something over 6"? When I bought my
BS
> I initially thought about starting with the riser but figured if I was
going
> to get into veneers and bookmatching, etc, I would probably want a more
> powerful machine (2-3hp) with a heavier table to boot. Are the 14" 1hp
> machines strong enough?
>
> Thanks,
> Mike
>
The blade that I use is 3 TPI. I did not clock it, but I would say that 1"
per second is about right without loading the motor. I could push hard/fast
enough to bog the motor but was happy with the resaw speed without
overloading the motor.
--
Alan Bierbaum
Web Site: http://www.calanb.com
Recent Project Page: http://www.calanb.com/recent.html
Workbench project: http://www.calanb.com/wbench.html
"Bruce" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In rec.woodworking
> "Alan Bierbaum" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >I have resawed 11" maple on my 1 hp G0555 with no problems using a 1/2"
> >timberwolf blade. Moved though at a good pace with no slowing of the
motor.
> >If I were only cutting 4/4 wood; I would (do) just use a good jigsaw.
>
> For comparison, I was at a buddies resawing 6" 8/4 walnut this weekend on
> his 18" Jet 1.5 HP. It was using a 1" with about 3 tpi and it would cut
> about an inch a second, but you could bog it if you pushed hard enough.
Mike,
How often have you actually resawed something over 6"? When I bought my BS
I initially thought about starting with the riser but figured if I was going
to get into veneers and bookmatching, etc, I would probably want a more
powerful machine (2-3hp) with a heavier table to boot. Are the 14" 1hp
machines strong enough?
Thanks,
Mike
"Mike in Mystic" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> These are added to allow more vertical capacity to the saw. For my Jet
14"
> bandsaw and other similar ones, it is an extra cast iron piece that is
added
> where the arm meets the base. It simply raises up the whole upper wheet
> housing 6" (IIRC). This doubled my resaw capacity from 6" to 12", which
is
> a very useful thing, IMO.
>
> Mike
I've done it on pieces up to about 10" wide on maybe a half dozen occasions.
More often is the 6-8" dimensions. I haven't found the 1 HP machine to be
too big of a liability - but I don't push it too hard and take my time. I
also haven't been cutting extremely hard species, either. Mostly cherry and
walnut, and even some ash and pine. I did use it with some hard maple, and
that worked fine, too.
Mike
"Mike in Idaho" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Mike,
> How often have you actually resawed something over 6"? When I bought my
BS
> I initially thought about starting with the riser but figured if I was
going
> to get into veneers and bookmatching, etc, I would probably want a more
> powerful machine (2-3hp) with a heavier table to boot. Are the 14" 1hp
> machines strong enough?
>
> Thanks,
> Mike
>
> "Mike in Mystic" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > These are added to allow more vertical capacity to the saw. For my Jet
> 14"
> > bandsaw and other similar ones, it is an extra cast iron piece that is
> added
> > where the arm meets the base. It simply raises up the whole upper
wheet
> > housing 6" (IIRC). This doubled my resaw capacity from 6" to 12", which
> is
> > a very useful thing, IMO.
> >
> > Mike
>
>