When it comes to heat dissipation and your electronics in an entertainment
centre, I was wondering which is more advised? Blow fresh air over your
sound system or pull heated air away? What seems obvious to me would be to
have fresh air blown in and heated air removed ~ two fans in effect. But, if
you're only using one fan, is there a preference going with a particular
method? Is there a difference as long as you have the air flow?
"Leon" wrote
>
> AND, HDMI cables. 3 years ago the going price for a 6' cable was in
> excess of $40 for a "who knows what" brand. A local cable producer near
> my home sold 25' HDMI gold plated cables in retail packaging for $12.95.
> That was the walk in public price.
>
> Let the buyer beware.
A comment about cables.
I put together big, multi monitor systems from time to time for the
financial services folks. I had a system I was working on a few months ago
and needed some simple DVI to DVI cables, 15 feet long. It took two days,
numerous phone calls and several trips by car to locate them at over $35
each. These used to be available at the computer big box stores that have
all gone out of business. I learned my lesson on this one. All cables will
be bought ahead of time on line. Much cheaper and less aggravation.
I am putting a system together this week. I am buying all cables online. But
many suppliers do not differentiate between the various products they sell
or provide any educational information. I ended up buying from
www.dcables.com primarily because they provided some basic info to narrow
down my choices and tell me the differences between the cable products they
offer. Also good pricing and fast service. My cables are due to arrive
today or tomorrow.
You are right Leon. Let the buyer beware.
"mac davis" wrote
> For our karaoke gig, we've found that placing pen blanks on each side of
> the amp
> and mic receiver, as sort of foot risers, increases the air flow/cooling
> dramatically..
> (the wireless receiver is stacked on the amp)
>
Pen blanks, eh??
Maybe you should write an article on other unexpected and original uses of
pen blanks. ;)
"Scott Lurndal" <[email protected]> wrote
> "Lee Michaels" <leemichaels*nadaspam*@comcast.net> writes:
>>
>>"mac davis" wrote
>>
>>> For our karaoke gig, we've found that placing pen blanks on each side of
>>> the amp
>>> and mic receiver, as sort of foot risers, increases the air
>>> flow/cooling
>>> dramatically..
>>> (the wireless receiver is stacked on the amp)
>>>
>>Pen blanks, eh??
>>
>>Maybe you should write an article on other unexpected and original uses of
>>pen blanks. ;)
>>
>
> Nah - go into business selling them to audiophiles. You can make big
> bucks
> on something like this; charge $100 ea. for 4 blanks and claim they
> increase
> the sound quality if inserted between the amp and cd player.
>
> Use a tropical hardwood and claim special 'damping' due to the internal
> resonance of the wood fibers interacting with frequencies in a narrow
> inaudible band above 20khz.
>
> The resulting sound will be cleaner, bass will be crisper and the
> high frequencies will shine.
>
> scott
> (there's a sucker born every second)
Ahhh....., Monster Spacer Blocks!!
All the audiophile magazines will eat this stuff up!
On Jun 9, 8:58=A0am, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
> > When it comes to heat dissipation and your electronics in an entertainm=
ent
> > centre, I was wondering which is more advised? Blow fresh air over your
> > sound system or pull heated air away? What seems obvious to me would be=
to
> > have fresh air blown in and heated air removed ~ two fans in effect. Bu=
t,
> > if
> > you're only using one fan, is there a preference going with a particula=
r
> > method? Is there a difference as long as you have the air flow?
>
> May be quality equipment. =A0I built a small center to house my electroni=
cs
> and to set my TV on. =A0All the supporting electronics, Amp/tuner, DVD bu=
rner,
> DVD/CD player and HD DVR all live behind closed smoked glass doors but th=
e
> back of the cabinet is 80% open. =A0For 14 years the AMP Tuner has been i=
n
> this spot with no ill effects except for the occasional burned out LCD ba=
ck
> light. =A0All =A0of the rest of the components have done just as well. =
=A0FWIW my
> Amp/Tuner is an upper end, $1K Yamaha that I purchased in 1994.
Just for shits and giggles, and in an attempt at a thread-jack, Yamaha
does not make upper end equipment. *snicker*
"Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> When it comes to heat dissipation and your electronics in an entertainment
> centre, I was wondering which is more advised? Blow fresh air over your
> sound system or pull heated air away? What seems obvious to me would be to
> have fresh air blown in and heated air removed ~ two fans in effect. But,
> if
> you're only using one fan, is there a preference going with a particular
> method? Is there a difference as long as you have the air flow?
Having read all the responses so far, and applying some basic common sense
(I hope I have some anyhow), here is what I would do.
I would install the fan at the bottom of the cabinet pushing air into the
unit and put a vent(s) or additional fans at the top for air flow and
natural hot air flow to escape. Sans the additional fans, the vents should
be large at the top but not so large as to allow cats or the stray Canada
Goose from entering and causing havok.
With the "pushing" fan at the bottom, the wiring to the fan is theoretically
going to be shorter and easier to hide / route / manage too.
I'd also put a mesh or foam filter (oversized so as to not restrict air
flow) on the intake and exhaust area to keep dust out as much as possible.
Make it removable so you can clean it.
That being said, I've only had one electronic device overheat from dust and
that was in a shop environment and NOT pretty.
The steps above are probably overkill for most people's home entertainment
systems, but if you really want to set it up to the max, this would at least
be a good starting point that doesn't involve liquid nitrogen, etc. <grin>
(Trying to remember to keep the poster's info alive up there in case someone
forgot who asked the original question - and needed to know for a very
specific reason that I can't imagine at this moment...)
Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com
VIDEOS: http://www.youtube.com/user/autodrill
V8013-R
"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> Just for shits and giggles, and in an attempt at a thread-jack, Yamaha
> does not make upper end equipment. *snicker*
Snicker all you want. For us little people $1000-$1500 for a receiver *is*
high end equipment. Hell, with all this getting older stuff and our hearing
disappearing daily, the really high end stuff is a waste on our ears. As
long as we hear *some* type of noise, it's good enough.
"Doug Winterburn" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Leon wrote:
>> "Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> When it comes to heat dissipation and your electronics in an
>>> entertainment
>>> centre, I was wondering which is more advised? Blow fresh air over your
>>> sound system or pull heated air away? What seems obvious to me would be
>>> to
>>> have fresh air blown in and heated air removed ~ two fans in effect.
>>> But,
>>> if
>>> you're only using one fan, is there a preference going with a particular
>>> method? Is there a difference as long as you have the air flow?
>>>
>>>
>>
>> Let me throw this in also. PC's have fans, have you ever noticed the
>> dust
>> that collects inside of a computer because it too is being sucked in with
>> the air? Dust inhibits proper ventilation. Adding a fan to the mix may
>> indeed create a problem that you are trying to prevent.
>>
>>
> At least, you can take a PC outside and blow the furballs out with an
> air can. The EC doesn't yield to this as easily.
I have not had any more problems getting inside my Yamaha receiver, than my
computer, to replace the LCD incandescent back knights on 2 separate
occasions, but have noticed after 12 years, 2 years ago, there was literally
no dust to speak of. Basically my receiver stays very clean inside compared
to my PC's.
On Jun 9, 9:45=A0am, "Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote:
> When it comes to heat dissipation and your electronics in an entertainmen=
t
> centre, I was wondering which is more advised? Blow fresh air over your
> sound system or pull heated air away? What seems obvious to me would be t=
o
> have fresh air blown in and heated air removed ~ two fans in effect. But,=
if
> you're only using one fan, is there a preference going with a particular
> method? Is there a difference as long as you have the air flow?
This is a subject I know a bit about. I have consulted on a few studio
installations where the equipment and people cooling not only had to
be effective, but done quietly. (It was the latter part that got me
involved)
The short answer, is that 'pushed' air is easier to direct.
In most cases, modern electronics will be happy with self-induced
convection air flow. IOW, let the air in at the bottom, via
strategically placed inlets (holes) and allow the hot air to escape at
the top of the enclosure. It helps if the outlet at the top of the
enclosure is larger in total sq.inches than the inlets at the bottom.
"Lee Michaels" <leemichaels*nadaspam*@comcast.net> writes:
>
>"mac davis" wrote
>
>> For our karaoke gig, we've found that placing pen blanks on each side of
>> the amp
>> and mic receiver, as sort of foot risers, increases the air flow/cooling
>> dramatically..
>> (the wireless receiver is stacked on the amp)
>>
>Pen blanks, eh??
>
>Maybe you should write an article on other unexpected and original uses of
>pen blanks. ;)
>
Nah - go into business selling them to audiophiles. You can make big bucks
on something like this; charge $100 ea. for 4 blanks and claim they increase
the sound quality if inserted between the amp and cd player.
Use a tropical hardwood and claim special 'damping' due to the internal
resonance of the wood fibers interacting with frequencies in a narrow
inaudible band above 20khz.
The resulting sound will be cleaner, bass will be crisper and the
high frequencies will shine.
scott
(there's a sucker born every second)
Two things:
First (on topic, at least to OP): I'm surprised no one has mentioned
this before, but why not get a thermostat controlled fan? You can get
fans that only turn on if the temperature is higher that a
threshold. So, what I would recomend:
Install a thermostat controlled fan, near the top back of the cabinet,
blowing air outwards. Install a hole near the bottom of the cabinet
(slightly bigger than the hole for the fan), with a dust filter on it
(don't forget to clean it every few months). This will keep dust out
of the system, noise down when your not overheating, and the
temperature down when you are.
Second thing, off topic, but a personal crusade of mine: buy HDMI
cables on-line. Having worked the past few years in the industry
(specifically I wrote the HDMI firmware for high end TV's), I can tell
you that in all normal cirucmstances (less than 20' cables, HDMI 1.3
certified cables for HDMI 1.3, etc), the picture/sound you get with
monster cables is EXACTLY the same as the picture/sound your recieve
for a $10 cable you buy on-line. Monster (and other brands) of cables
give the retail stores really high margins, so they don't bother
selling reasonable priced cables. I'm not sure if I'm more peeved by
the fact that the retail stores think that I should be stupid enough
to buy thier cables, or that there are enough people buying these
cables at the outrageous prices to allow the retail stores to sell
nothing but. Anyway, just had to get that out... phew... feel better
now.
John
On Jun 9, 11:39=A0am, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:9ff74bab-7e22-4525-b573-75e8f6774b73@r13g2000vbr.googlegroups.com...
> On Jun 9, 9:59 am, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> What a properly cooled amplifier could look like:http://www.wichitaphotos=
.org/graphics/wsu_ua.wsu.windtunnel.2.jpg
>
> I figured that clicking on the link would take me to somewhere like that,
> but =A0I would have thought you could have come up with something a bit m=
ore,
> modern?
It's a tube amp.
On Tue, 9 Jun 2009 08:45:20 -0500, "Upscale" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>When it comes to heat dissipation and your electronics in an entertainment
>centre, I was wondering which is more advised? Blow fresh air over your
>sound system or pull heated air away? What seems obvious to me would be to
>have fresh air blown in and heated air removed ~ two fans in effect. But, if
>you're only using one fan, is there a preference going with a particular
>method? Is there a difference as long as you have the air flow?
>
Having the fan remove air is more effective than blowing air in.
Mark
On Jun 9, 9:45=A0am, "Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote:
> When it comes to heat dissipation and your electronics in an entertainmen=
t
> centre, I was wondering which is more advised? Blow fresh air over your
> sound system or pull heated air away? What seems obvious to me would be t=
o
> have fresh air blown in and heated air removed ~ two fans in effect. But,=
if
> you're only using one fan, is there a preference going with a particular
> method? Is there a difference as long as you have the air flow?
I constructed an in-wall entertainment center with panel doors on the
front and sliding access doors on the back located inside a built-in
cabinet. The rear cabinet currently does not have doors.
My equipment (1 5.1 Yamaha receiver, 1 DVD player, 1 digital TV tuner,
1 desktop computer, 1 laser printer, 1 wireless router, and 1 small
Windows Home Server box) is all kept cool by a single exhaust fan
located at the top of the cabinet with the computers in it. The fan is
one I scrounged from an AV setup at an old job that was being scrapped
about 6 or 7 years ago. It runs 24/7, and the slight vibrations cause
a slight noise, but it works so well I don't care. I could work on
making it quieter by putting some different mounting hardware on it to
isolate the vibrations more, but enh. It doesn't bother anyone.
Here's the kind of fan I have:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#9191k1/=3D28pqsg
I didn't put in any vents, but rather let the gaps in the doors act as
the inlets. Cross-cabinet (the center is 2 sections, divided by 1.5"
of plywood) ventilation is provided through the cable run holes I put
into the partition. So far none of my equipment has overheated or died
other than those that I installed incorrectly (i.e. a digital tuner
turned on its side and a cheapo DVD player that got too hot sitting on
top of the receiver). I've been through 2 computers in there with no
problems, and both cabinets are fine when I open them up to swap out
media or adjust volume.
-Nathan
"Upscale" <[email protected]> writes:
> "Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> Just for shits and giggles, and in an attempt at a thread-jack, Yamaha
>> does not make upper end equipment. *snicker*
>
> Snicker all you want. For us little people $1000-$1500 for a receiver *is*
> high end equipment.
There's a huge difference between high end quality and high priced
crap, with plenty of the later available today. I recall Yamaha
making some very good hifi equipment (speakers, not so good). IMO,
the whole audio industry is suspect, digital bringing nothing to the
table other than reduced costs and outlandish prices. Seven thousand
dollar cables, indeed.
nb
"Leon" <[email protected]> writes:
> Let me throw this in also. PC's have fans, have you ever noticed the dust
> that collects inside of a computer because it too is being sucked in with
> the air? Dust inhibits proper ventilation. Adding a fan to the mix may
> indeed create a problem that you are trying to prevent.
Dust is a problem, fan or no. I've used computers closed up with fans
and wide open without (cpu must be cooled). Dust accumulates,
and must occasionally be removed, regarless of configuration.
nb
[email protected] (Scott Lurndal) writes:
> Use a tropical hardwood and claim special 'damping' due to the internal
> resonance of the wood fibers interacting with frequencies in a narrow
> inaudible band above 20khz.
You joke, but......
> (there's a sucker born every second)
..and most of them watch cable tv. ("But wait! There's more")
nb
On Tue, 9 Jun 2009 08:45:20 -0500, "Upscale" <[email protected]>
wrote:
> Is there a difference as long as you have the air flow?
Unless you need to direct airflow over a particular component, at the
flow rate and velocity you're dealing with, it won't matter whether
the air is "pushed" into or "pulled" out of the box.
Tom Veatch
Wichita, KS
USA
On Jun 9, 9:09=A0am, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> Agreed, modern electronics are designed to operate is all types of
> conditions. =A0As long as fresh air can enter and exit on it's own every =
thing
> should be fine.
That reminded me of the college days when huddled, with a group of
friends around some stereo equipment, and an ample supply of beer and
smokables....that 'fresh air' was at a premium.
"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> convection air flow. IOW, let the air in at the bottom, via
> strategically placed inlets (holes) and allow the hot air to escape at
> the top of the enclosure. It helps if the outlet at the top of the
> enclosure is larger in total sq.inches than the inlets at the bottom.
This was one area I was wondering about. With the acrylic doors in the
front, I can't envision any effective way to introduce any placed inlets.
The receiver is sitting on a 3/8" acrylic shelf and although realistically I
could put some holes in it, considering the weight the tuner, (there's
marginal sag already), I'm really hesitant to introduce any possible weak
points in that supporting shelf. All I think I'm left with in the end is
some type of fan forced air inflow and another fan somewhere else to remove
the heated air.
However, as Leon has mentioned, maybe I'm worrying needlessly. It is a
higher end Yamaha receiver about a year old and might not need the attention
I'm focusing on heat dissipation. I'm not a sound volume freak running it at
3,000 decibels volume every chance I get.
On Jun 10, 12:22=A0pm, "Lee Michaels"
<leemichaels*[email protected]> wrote:
> "mac davis" =A0wrote
>
> > For our karaoke gig, we've found that placing pen blanks on each side o=
f
> > the amp
> > and mic receiver, as sort of foot risers, =A0increases the air flow/coo=
ling
> > dramatically..
> > (the wireless receiver is stacked on the amp)
>
> Pen blanks, eh??
>
> Maybe you should write an article on other unexpected and original uses o=
f
> pen blanks. =A0;)
I have some suggestions.....
On Jun 9, 9:59=A0am, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
>
>
> > "Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >> convection air flow. IOW, let the air in at the bottom, via
> >> strategically placed inlets (holes) and allow the hot air to escape at
> >> the top of the enclosure. It helps if the outlet at the top of the
> >> enclosure is larger in total sq.inches than the inlets at the bottom.
>
> > This was one area I was wondering about. With the acrylic doors in the
> > front, I can't envision any effective way to introduce any placed inlet=
s.
> > The receiver is sitting on a 3/8" acrylic shelf and although realistica=
lly
> > I
> > could put some holes in it, considering the weight the tuner, (there's
> > marginal sag already), I'm really hesitant to introduce any possible we=
ak
> > points in that supporting shelf. All I think I'm left with in the end i=
s
> > some type of fan forced air inflow and another fan somewhere else to
> > remove
> > the heated air.
>
> > However, as Leon has mentioned, maybe I'm worrying needlessly. It is a
> > higher end Yamaha receiver about a year old and might not need the
> > attention
> > I'm focusing on heat dissipation. I'm not a sound volume freak running =
it
> > at
> > 3,000 decibels volume every chance I get.
>
> I have found that if you maintain the spacing that the feet on any one pi=
ece
> of equipment provides, =A0don't set it on a pillow or block the bottom
> perimeter of the unit, and provide at least that amount of room on the to=
p
> side that you are normally OK
What a properly cooled amplifier could look like:
http://www.wichitaphotos.org/graphics/wsu_ua.wsu.windtunnel.2.jpg
"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:9ff74bab-7e22-4525-b573-75e8f6774b73@r13g2000vbr.googlegroups.com...
On Jun 9, 9:59 am, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
What a properly cooled amplifier could look like:
http://www.wichitaphotos.org/graphics/wsu_ua.wsu.windtunnel.2.jpg
I figured that clicking on the link would take me to somewhere like that,
but I would have thought you could have come up with something a bit more,
modern?
Leon wrote:
> "Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> When it comes to heat dissipation and your electronics in an entertainment
>> centre, I was wondering which is more advised? Blow fresh air over your
>> sound system or pull heated air away? What seems obvious to me would be to
>> have fresh air blown in and heated air removed ~ two fans in effect. But,
>> if
>> you're only using one fan, is there a preference going with a particular
>> method? Is there a difference as long as you have the air flow?
>>
>>
>
> Let me throw this in also. PC's have fans, have you ever noticed the dust
> that collects inside of a computer because it too is being sucked in with
> the air? Dust inhibits proper ventilation. Adding a fan to the mix may
> indeed create a problem that you are trying to prevent.
>
>
At least, you can take a PC outside and blow the furballs out with an
air can. The EC doesn't yield to this as easily.
Upscale wrote:
> When it comes to heat dissipation and your electronics in an entertainment
> centre, I was wondering which is more advised? Blow fresh air over your
> sound system or pull heated air away? What seems obvious to me would be to
> have fresh air blown in and heated air removed ~ two fans in effect. But, if
> you're only using one fan, is there a preference going with a particular
> method? Is there a difference as long as you have the air flow?
>
>
Most equipment cabinets have fan(s) that first draw the air through a
filter and then through the fan pressurizing the cabinet. Doing so
helps to minimize dust build up by pre filtering and maintaining a
positive pressure in the cabinet.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Upscale" <[email protected]> writes:
>
>> "Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>> Just for shits and giggles, and in an attempt at a thread-jack, Yamaha
>>> does not make upper end equipment. *snicker*
>>
>> Snicker all you want. For us little people $1000-$1500 for a receiver
>> *is*
>> high end equipment.
>
> There's a huge difference between high end quality and high priced
> crap, with plenty of the later available today. I recall Yamaha
> making some very good hifi equipment (speakers, not so good). IMO,
> the whole audio industry is suspect, digital bringing nothing to the
> table other than reduced costs and outlandish prices. Seven thousand
> dollar cables, indeed.
Which reminds me of "Monster Cables". while probably a decent quality
product they really like to use that magnifying insulation to make that
weeney cable look bigger as it goes into the clear insulated covering. Lamp
cord electrical wire works for me.
AND, HDMI cables. 3 years ago the going price for a 6' cable was in excess
of $40 for a "who knows what" brand. A local cable producer near my home
sold 25' HDMI gold plated cables in retail packaging for $12.95. That was
the walk in public price.
Let the buyer beware.
Upscale wrote:
> This was one area I was wondering about. With the acrylic doors in the
> front, I can't envision any effective way to introduce any placed inlets.
Can you add a gap between the front doors and the bottom shelf?
> However, as Leon has mentioned, maybe I'm worrying needlessly. It is a
> higher end Yamaha receiver about a year old and might not need the attention
> I'm focusing on heat dissipation. I'm not a sound volume freak running it at
> 3,000 decibels volume every chance I get.
It all depends on the type of amplifier circuit and power supply. Many
new amps use class D circuits, which are much more efficient (though
often less accurate) than the old class AB designs, and so put out less
heat. Generally you can tell by the weight/size of the amp...class D
ones are usually lighter and shorter, while class AB amps are generally
taller/heavier due to the large transformer(s) in them.
Chris
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Leon" <[email protected]> writes:
>
>
>> Let me throw this in also. PC's have fans, have you ever noticed the
>> dust
>> that collects inside of a computer because it too is being sucked in with
>> the air? Dust inhibits proper ventilation. Adding a fan to the mix may
>> indeed create a problem that you are trying to prevent.
>
> Dust is a problem, fan or no. I've used computers closed up with fans
> and wide open without (cpu must be cooled). Dust accumulates,
> and must occasionally be removed, regarless of configuration.
>
> nb
But we are talking about stereo equipment, I was using computer cooling fans
as an example. My Yamaha stays pretty dust free, at least in the first 12
years, I have not looked inside in the last 2.
In article <[email protected]>, "Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote:
>When it comes to heat dissipation and your electronics in an entertainment
>centre, I was wondering which is more advised? Blow fresh air over your
>sound system or pull heated air away? What seems obvious to me would be to
>have fresh air blown in and heated air removed ~ two fans in effect. But, if
>you're only using one fan, is there a preference going with a particular
>method? Is there a difference as long as you have the air flow?
This is a subject that the manufacturers of mainframe computers have
investigated extensively -- and considering that some mainframes have fans
near the bottom blowing in (and passive exhaust vents near the top), and
others have fans near the top blowing out (and passive intake vents near the
bottom), but they *all* have intake at the bottom and outlet at the top, I'd
say it doesn't matter much, as long as you have the air flow, *and* it's
moving the same direction as convection would naturally take it.
On Wed, 17 Jun 2009 09:52:08 GMT, Scatter
<[email protected]_not_set.invalid> wrote:
> If you use
>suction then the dust has already passed over your expensive gear.
Unless you filter the inlet.
Tom Veatch
Wichita, KS
USA
"Chris Friesen" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> Can you add a gap between the front doors and the bottom shelf?
Nothing that wouldn't look out of place. One thing I might consider in the
future is fan assisted air input up through the bottom shelf with fan output
somewhere near the top back of the unit. That type of air flow wouldn't have
any effect on the aesthetics of the entertainment centre.
> ones are usually lighter and shorter, while class AB amps are generally
> taller/heavier due to the large transformer(s) in them.
Going solely on that basis, it's an AB amp weighing in at close to 50 lbs.
At least that's what it felt like when I was struggling to lift it in place.
For now, I'm not going to worry about it. The entire back of the
entertainment unit is open. If and when I get around to closing it in, I'll
measure the temperature difference and decide then if I need to run some
type of additional cooling assistance.
"Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> When it comes to heat dissipation and your electronics in an entertainment
> centre, I was wondering which is more advised? Blow fresh air over your
> sound system or pull heated air away? What seems obvious to me would be to
> have fresh air blown in and heated air removed ~ two fans in effect. But,
> if
> you're only using one fan, is there a preference going with a particular
> method? Is there a difference as long as you have the air flow?
>
>
It makes no difference, since they are both the same. In order for either
to be effective, you need an air input and an exhaust. You create a
pressure differential with a fan, which draws air in from the input (area of
higher pressure) and exhausts it out the exhaust (area of lower pressure).
Push or pull has some effect in some circumstances, but not of any real
consequence in this application.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On Jun 9, 9:15=A0am, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
> hear a popcorn fed hummingbird fart at forty paces
You're not well.
r
LMAO
Upscale wrote:
> When it comes to heat dissipation and your electronics in an
> entertainment centre, I was wondering which is more advised? Blow
> fresh air over your sound system or pull heated air away? What seems
> obvious to me would be to have fresh air blown in and heated air
> removed ~ two fans in effect. But, if you're only using one fan, is
> there a preference going with a particular method? Is there a
> difference as long as you have the air flow?
In computer rooms, it's blow. That way you don't have to have a fan
everywhere, just holes.
"Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> When it comes to heat dissipation and your electronics in an entertainment
> centre, I was wondering which is more advised? Blow fresh air over your
> sound system or pull heated air away? What seems obvious to me would be to
> have fresh air blown in and heated air removed ~ two fans in effect. But,
> if
> you're only using one fan, is there a preference going with a particular
> method? Is there a difference as long as you have the air flow?
>
>
May be quality equipment. I built a small center to house my electronics
and to set my TV on. All the supporting electronics, Amp/tuner, DVD burner,
DVD/CD player and HD DVR all live behind closed smoked glass doors but the
back of the cabinet is 80% open. For 14 years the AMP Tuner has been in
this spot with no ill effects except for the occasional burned out LCD back
light. All of the rest of the components have done just as well. FWIW my
Amp/Tuner is an upper end, $1K Yamaha that I purchased in 1994.
"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:398ea844-0bf4-4ff6-9526-0515dea8696f@o14g2000vbo.googlegroups.com...
On Jun 9, 9:45 am, "Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote:
> When it comes to heat dissipation and your electronics in an entertainment
> centre, I was wondering which is more advised? Blow fresh air over your
> sound system or pull heated air away? What seems obvious to me would be to
> have fresh air blown in and heated air removed ~ two fans in effect. But,
> if
> you're only using one fan, is there a preference going with a particular
> method? Is there a difference as long as you have the air flow?
This is a subject I know a bit about. I have consulted on a few studio
installations where the equipment and people cooling not only had to
be effective, but done quietly. (It was the latter part that got me
involved)
The short answer, is that 'pushed' air is easier to direct.
In most cases, modern electronics will be happy with self-induced
convection air flow. IOW, let the air in at the bottom, via
strategically placed inlets (holes) and allow the hot air to escape at
the top of the enclosure. It helps if the outlet at the top of the
enclosure is larger in total sq.inches than the inlets at the bottom.
Agreed, modern electronics are designed to operate is all types of
conditions. As long as fresh air can enter and exit on it's own every thing
should be fine.
"charlie" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> "Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> When it comes to heat dissipation and your electronics in an
>>> entertainment
>>> centre, I was wondering which is more advised? Blow fresh air over your
>>> sound system or pull heated air away? What seems obvious to me would be
>>> to
>>> have fresh air blown in and heated air removed ~ two fans in effect.
>>> But, if
>>> you're only using one fan, is there a preference going with a particular
>>> method? Is there a difference as long as you have the air flow?
>>>
>>>
>>
>> It makes no difference, since they are both the same. In order for
>> either to be effective, you need an air input and an exhaust. You create
>> a pressure differential with a fan, which draws air in from the input
>> (area of higher pressure) and exhausts it out the exhaust (area of lower
>> pressure). Push or pull has some effect in some circumstances, but not of
>> any real consequence in this application.
>>
> in effect they are the same. however, for longevity in certain cases, you
> want to push air in. for example, i have exhaust fans for removing heat
> from my reef tank. they push air in because pulling salt air out causes
> early fan deaths.
>
In that sort of application, you are absolutely correct, but that is because
you have a hostile environment at a point where it could physically affect
the fan. The air flow considerations remain unchanged.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Upscale wrote:
> When it comes to heat dissipation and your electronics in an entertainment
> centre, I was wondering which is more advised? Blow fresh air over your
> sound system or pull heated air away? What seems obvious to me would be to
> have fresh air blown in and heated air removed ~ two fans in effect. But, if
> you're only using one fan, is there a preference going with a particular
> method? Is there a difference as long as you have the air flow?
What Leon said. I have racks of multi-thousand dollar audio equipment in
a recording studio and we keep the backs of the racks open. Most decent
stereo equipment will have heat sinks built in, if needed, and don't
need fans.
That said, I'm sure there are differing opinions on this, plus an
industry more than ready to sell you something you really don't need,
I'm just imparting year of practical experience with high dollar audio
equipment in the studio.
Also, there are those among us who can, or could at one time, hear a pop
corn fed hummingbird fart at forty paces, and I've never met a fan that
not induce some noise into the listening environment, no matter how slight.
IOW, leave the back open and you should not need a fan, and, more than
likely even if you enclose it, a simple vent will do the trick.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)
"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:0c043014-93f7-4297-a44b-864341f36595@e24g2000vbe.googlegroups.com...
On Jun 9, 8:58 am, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
> > When it comes to heat dissipation and your electronics in an
> > entertainment
> > centre, I was wondering which is more advised? Blow fresh air over your
> > sound system or pull heated air away? What seems obvious to me would be
> > to
> > have fresh air blown in and heated air removed ~ two fans in effect.
> > But,
> > if
> > you're only using one fan, is there a preference going with a particular
> > method? Is there a difference as long as you have the air flow?
>
> May be quality equipment. I built a small center to house my electronics
> and to set my TV on. All the supporting electronics, Amp/tuner, DVD
> burner,
> DVD/CD player and HD DVR all live behind closed smoked glass doors but the
> back of the cabinet is 80% open. For 14 years the AMP Tuner has been in
> this spot with no ill effects except for the occasional burned out LCD
> back
> light. All of the rest of the components have done just as well. FWIW my
> Amp/Tuner is an upper end, $1K Yamaha that I purchased in 1994.
Just for shits and giggles, and in an attempt at a thread-jack, Yamaha
does not make upper end equipment. *snicker*
I did not indicate that Yamaha made upper end equipment. I said that my
Amp/Tuner is an upper end, $1K Yamaha.
Doug Winterburn wrote:
> Leon wrote:
>> "Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> When it comes to heat dissipation and your electronics in an
>>> entertainment centre, I was wondering which is more advised? Blow
>>> fresh air over your sound system or pull heated air away? What
>>> seems obvious to me would be to have fresh air blown in and heated
>>> air removed ~ two fans in effect. But, if
>>> you're only using one fan, is there a preference going with a
>>> particular method? Is there a difference as long as you have the
>>> air flow?
>>>
>>>
>>
>> Let me throw this in also. PC's have fans, have you ever noticed
>> the dust that collects inside of a computer because it too is being
>> sucked in with the air? Dust inhibits proper ventilation. Adding
>> a fan to the mix may indeed create a problem that you are trying to
>> prevent.
>>
>>
> At least, you can take a PC outside and blow the furballs out with an
> air can. The EC doesn't yield to this as easily.
Set the fan up to help natural convection, not to fight it. If it's at the
top set it to blow out, if it's at the bottom set it to blow in.
As to which is preferable, if you have the fan set up to blow in you can put
a filter on it, which will do a good deal to help the dust problem, but now
you have to size the fan to overcome the losses from the filter, and you
have to remember to clean or change the filter--most computers with filters
never get them cleaned unless there is a corporate weenie whose job it is to
go around after hours and clean fan filters.
One other benefit of having the fan blow in is that you can position it to
put high velocity airflow on a specific component if you have one that you
know is going to be a problem.
Personally I'd make a provision to easily put in fans at both top and bottom
(possibly including screw inserts--it's easier to start a machine screw into
an insert in an awkward place than to drive a wood screw), but not the fans,
and then monitor the temperature (you can get a remote reading digital
thermometer at Harbor Freight for 9 bucks that's good enough for this
purpose and will show you room temperature besides) and only put in the fans
if I saw the temperature in the enclosed area rising above an acceptable
level (the components you install should have operating temperatures listed
somewhere in the spec sheet--go with the lowest one listed) then add fans
until it's down to what you want it to be.
"Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>, "Upscale"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>When it comes to heat dissipation and your electronics in an entertainment
>>centre, I was wondering which is more advised? Blow fresh air over your
>>sound system or pull heated air away? What seems obvious to me would be to
>>have fresh air blown in and heated air removed ~ two fans in effect. But,
>>if
>>you're only using one fan, is there a preference going with a particular
>>method? Is there a difference as long as you have the air flow?
>
> This is a subject that the manufacturers of mainframe computers have
> investigated extensively -- and considering that some mainframes have fans
> near the bottom blowing in (and passive exhaust vents near the top), and
> others have fans near the top blowing out (and passive intake vents near
> the
> bottom), but they *all* have intake at the bottom and outlet at the top,
> I'd
> say it doesn't matter much, as long as you have the air flow, *and* it's
> moving the same direction as convection would naturally take it.
not all. some of my company's computers intake in a vertical vent running
the length of the right side front, and exhaust out the back in a vertical
vent thnning the length of the left side rear..
"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> When it comes to heat dissipation and your electronics in an
>> entertainment
>> centre, I was wondering which is more advised? Blow fresh air over your
>> sound system or pull heated air away? What seems obvious to me would be
>> to
>> have fresh air blown in and heated air removed ~ two fans in effect. But,
>> if
>> you're only using one fan, is there a preference going with a particular
>> method? Is there a difference as long as you have the air flow?
>>
>>
>
> It makes no difference, since they are both the same. In order for either
> to be effective, you need an air input and an exhaust. You create a
> pressure differential with a fan, which draws air in from the input (area
> of higher pressure) and exhausts it out the exhaust (area of lower
> pressure). Push or pull has some effect in some circumstances, but not of
> any real consequence in this application.
>
in effect they are the same. however, for longevity in certain cases, you
want to push air in. for example, i have exhaust fans for removing heat from
my reef tank. they push air in because pulling salt air out causes early fan
deaths.
Joe AutoDrill wrote:
> "Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> When it comes to heat dissipation and your electronics in an
>> entertainment centre, I was wondering which is more advised? Blow
>> fresh air over your sound system or pull heated air away? What seems
>> obvious to me would be to have fresh air blown in and heated air
>> removed ~ two fans in effect. But, if
>> you're only using one fan, is there a preference going with a
>> particular method? Is there a difference as long as you have the air
>> flow?
>
> Having read all the responses so far, and applying some basic common
> sense (I hope I have some anyhow), here is what I would do.
>
> I would install the fan at the bottom of the cabinet pushing air into
> the unit and put a vent(s) or additional fans at the top for air flow
> and natural hot air flow to escape. Sans the additional fans, the
> vents should be large at the top but not so large as to allow cats or
> the stray Canada Goose from entering and causing havok.
Try to size the vents so that a cat's leg either can't get in, or if it gets
in has plenty of clearance to come out. I know of a cat that got its leg
broken from poking it down a vent that was a little bit tight and then
managing to fall off the back of the enclosure.
> With the "pushing" fan at the bottom, the wiring to the fan is
> theoretically going to be shorter and easier to hide / route / manage
> too.
>
> I'd also put a mesh or foam filter (oversized so as to not restrict
> air flow) on the intake and exhaust area to keep dust out as much as
> possible. Make it removable so you can clean it.
>
> That being said, I've only had one electronic device overheat from
> dust and that was in a shop environment and NOT pretty.
>
> The steps above are probably overkill for most people's home
> entertainment systems, but if you really want to set it up to the
> max, this would at least be a good starting point that doesn't
> involve liquid nitrogen, etc. <grin>
>
> (Trying to remember to keep the poster's info alive up there in case
> someone forgot who asked the original question - and needed to know
> for a very specific reason that I can't imagine at this moment...)
>
> Regards,
> Joe Agro, Jr.
> (800) 871-5022
> 01.908.542.0244
> Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
> Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
> Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com
> VIDEOS: http://www.youtube.com/user/autodrill
>
> V8013-R
Chris Friesen wrote:
> John wrote:
>
>> Second thing, off topic, but a personal crusade of mine: buy HDMI
>> cables on-line. Having worked the past few years in the industry
>> (specifically I wrote the HDMI firmware for high end TV's), I can tell
>> you that in all normal cirucmstances (less than 20' cables, HDMI 1.3
>> certified cables for HDMI 1.3, etc), the picture/sound you get with
>> monster cables is EXACTLY the same as the picture/sound your recieve
>> for a $10 cable you buy on-line.
>
> The same is true for RCA cable, toslink, subwoofer cable, speaker cable,
> etc.
>
> You can definately get cheaper stuff, but I've found that
> http://www.bluejeanscable.com/ has pretty high grade stuff
> (Belden/Canare cable, Canare/Neutrik connectors) at reasonable prices
> for what you get.
I've bought HDMI cables and audio cables and video cables at
http://www.cablewholesale.com
All cables were super cheap (half what bluejeanscable charges for HDMI)
and very high quality. I would highly recommend them to anyone looking
for any kind of cable. The web site works great, and buying is easy as
well. No affiliation whatsoever, just a happy customer for at least 3
years now.
--
Jack
Using FREE News Server: http://www.eternal-september.org/
http://jbstein.com
John wrote:
> Second thing, off topic, but a personal crusade of mine: buy HDMI
> cables on-line. Having worked the past few years in the industry
> (specifically I wrote the HDMI firmware for high end TV's), I can tell
> you that in all normal cirucmstances (less than 20' cables, HDMI 1.3
> certified cables for HDMI 1.3, etc), the picture/sound you get with
> monster cables is EXACTLY the same as the picture/sound your recieve
> for a $10 cable you buy on-line.
The same is true for RCA cable, toslink, subwoofer cable, speaker cable,
etc.
You can definately get cheaper stuff, but I've found that
http://www.bluejeanscable.com/ has pretty high grade stuff
(Belden/Canare cable, Canare/Neutrik connectors) at reasonable prices
for what you get.
Chris
On Tue, 9 Jun 2009 08:45:20 -0500, "Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote:
>When it comes to heat dissipation and your electronics in an entertainment
>centre, I was wondering which is more advised? Blow fresh air over your
>sound system or pull heated air away? What seems obvious to me would be to
>have fresh air blown in and heated air removed ~ two fans in effect. But, if
>you're only using one fan, is there a preference going with a particular
>method? Is there a difference as long as you have the air flow?
>
Any experience I have is in the computer and amplifier field, but the sort of
rule used to be that if it's a closed area (computer case of semi-sealed
cabinet) you use an exhaust fan to pull the heat out, if it's out in the open,
you blow air over it..
IMHO, it's best to pull heat away, but either should work... Pulling heat away
causes cooled air to be drawn in, so I don't think it makes a lot of difference?
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
On Tue, 9 Jun 2009 08:59:59 -0500, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I have found that if you maintain the spacing that the feet on any one piece
>of equipment provides, don't set it on a pillow or block the bottom
>perimeter of the unit, and provide at least that amount of room on the top
>side that you are normally OK
Good point, I should of remembered that...
For our karaoke gig, we've found that placing pen blanks on each side of the amp
and mic receiver, as sort of foot risers, increases the air flow/cooling
dramatically..
(the wireless receiver is stacked on the amp)
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
"Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> convection air flow. IOW, let the air in at the bottom, via
>> strategically placed inlets (holes) and allow the hot air to escape at
>> the top of the enclosure. It helps if the outlet at the top of the
>> enclosure is larger in total sq.inches than the inlets at the bottom.
>
> This was one area I was wondering about. With the acrylic doors in the
> front, I can't envision any effective way to introduce any placed inlets.
> The receiver is sitting on a 3/8" acrylic shelf and although realistically
> I
> could put some holes in it, considering the weight the tuner, (there's
> marginal sag already), I'm really hesitant to introduce any possible weak
> points in that supporting shelf. All I think I'm left with in the end is
> some type of fan forced air inflow and another fan somewhere else to
> remove
> the heated air.
>
> However, as Leon has mentioned, maybe I'm worrying needlessly. It is a
> higher end Yamaha receiver about a year old and might not need the
> attention
> I'm focusing on heat dissipation. I'm not a sound volume freak running it
> at
> 3,000 decibels volume every chance I get.
>
>
I have found that if you maintain the spacing that the feet on any one piece
of equipment provides, don't set it on a pillow or block the bottom
perimeter of the unit, and provide at least that amount of room on the top
side that you are normally OK
"Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> When it comes to heat dissipation and your electronics in an entertainment
> centre, I was wondering which is more advised? Blow fresh air over your
> sound system or pull heated air away? What seems obvious to me would be to
> have fresh air blown in and heated air removed ~ two fans in effect. But,
> if
> you're only using one fan, is there a preference going with a particular
> method? Is there a difference as long as you have the air flow?
>
>
Let me throw this in also. PC's have fans, have you ever noticed the dust
that collects inside of a computer because it too is being sucked in with
the air? Dust inhibits proper ventilation. Adding a fan to the mix may
indeed create a problem that you are trying to prevent.