What kind of hardwood floor is this?

On Oct 22, 7:10 am, "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Doug Miller wrote:
> > In article <[email protected]>,
> > Aaron Fude <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> I need to replace a section of the floor and I'm wondering what
> >> kind of wood this is to come up with as close a match as possible:
>
> >>http://freeboundaries.com/floor1.jpg
> >>http://freeboundaries.com/floor2.jpg
>
> > Not hardwood at all. It's yellow pine.
>
> Or Douglas fir. Since you are in Pennsylvania, most probably yellow
> pine.
>
> --
>
> dadiOH
> ____________________________
>
> dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
> ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
> LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
> Get it athttp://mysite.verizon.net/xico

Probably yellow pine, but new wood will not have the aged look and
will require a real wood pro to stain it correctly, like a pro
furniture refinisher, not a floor guy. Cant you remove wood from maybe
a closet.

On Oct 22, 8:21 am, [email protected] (Doug Miller) wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>, ransley <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> >On Oct 22, 7:10 am, "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> Doug Miller wrote:
> >> > In article <[email protected]>,
> >> > Aaron Fude <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> >> I need to replace a section of the floor and I'm wondering what
> >> >> kind of wood this is to come up with as close a match as possible:
>
> >> >>http://freeboundaries.com/floor1.jpg
> >> >>http://freeboundaries.com/floor2.jpg
>
> >> > Not hardwood at all. It's yellow pine.
>
> >> Or Douglas fir. Since you are in Pennsylvania, most probably yellow
> >> pine.
>
> >Probably yellow pine, but new wood will not have the aged look and
> >will require a real wood pro to stain it correctly, like a pro
> >furniture refinisher, not a floor guy. Cant you remove wood from maybe
> >a closet.
>
> He said it was "refinished" which I took to mean that it was sanded as well.
> If that's the case, then new wood may actually be a pretty good match -- but
> if it wasn't sanded, just stripped and revarnished, then as you say, new wood
> will not match, probably not even with stain.
>
> --
> Regards,
> Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
>
> It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

I didnt read where he said it was refinished, it looked real yellow in
the photo, I wonder if it was sanded completely, if it was its a bad
photo but old wood is oxidised deep, he still may need a pro to pre
stain and stain it with color

On Oct 22, 2:01 pm, "Not@home" <[email protected]> wrote:
> My home was build in about 1925, and at that time is was common practice
> to use good hardwood in the "public" areas (first floor living and
> dining room and stairways, for example) but to use either pine or
> douglas fir in the "family" areas (upstairs bedrooms and attic). The
> douglas fir available at that time was a better grade wood than what you
> see today, unless you can find a source of old growth fir.
>
> Getting a good match with new wood will be difficult. If there are any
> closets with matching wood, you could use that wood and replace it with
> new wood in the closet, since no-one will notice a closet. Otherwise,
> you might have to find an inconspicuous area and scavage the wood from
> there. If you have the time and talent, you could build some sort of
> pattern or border into the floor with new wood and use the old for your
> repair.

Hi,

Thanks for the recommendations. To clarify, yes the floor was sanded
and poly-ed.

I was told by my floor refinisher that these floors would be to
brittle to take out of a closet and move to the area of interest.
Also, according to him, there's virtually no way of getting them out
of the floor without busting circular saw blades on the nails.
Finally, he's claim is that b/c it's tongue in groove, that these
boards are "used-up" and cannot be re-used.

What do you guys think?

Thanks again,

Aaron

On Oct 23, 8:56 am, [email protected] (Chris Lewis) wrote:
> According to dadiOH <[email protected]>:
>
> > Doug Miller wrote:
> > > In article <[email protected]>,
> > > Aaron Fude <[email protected]> wrote:
> > >> I need to replace a section of the floor and I'm wondering what
> > >> kind of wood this is to come up with as close a match as possible:
>
> > >>http://freeboundaries.com/floor1.jpg
> > >>http://freeboundaries.com/floor2.jpg
>
> > > Not hardwood at all. It's yellow pine.
>
> > Or Douglas fir. Since you are in Pennsylvania, most probably yellow
> > pine.
>
> Out of curiousity, why do you think it's pine/fir?
>
> Yes, it being in an attic is suggestive of that. On the other
> hand, it's narrow-strip flooring, and back in those days that
> tended to be the "better" stuff and I'd expect it to be hardwood.
>
> The picture isn't all that good. The grain pattern is suggestive
> of Douglas Fir, oak, ash or even chestnut. In Pennsylvania back
> then it's _highly_ unlikely to be Doug Fir.
>
> I'm not at all familiar with Yellow Pine - doesn't grow here. So
> that may be my problem ;-)
>
> Eastern white pine, especially wide plank (6+ inches), is common in
> farmhouses and "back rooms" in houses of this vintage and older, but
> its grain pattern is _much_ less distinct, so it can't be that.
>
> I've never seen white pine in narrow strip flooring. Is it common
> in yellow?
>
> White pine is softer than Doug Fir, but still very common as flooring,
> even new. Depends on what you want.
>
> We plan on redoing our kitchen and dining room with white pine.
> Mind you, it's been sitting on the bottom of the Ottawa river
> for more than 100 years. Old growth to begin with, it's "treatment"
> has hardened it even more.
> --
> Chris Lewis,
>
> Age and Treachery will Triumph over Youth and Skill
> It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.

If you have it in the closet use it, So buy him a 7$ blade, or maybe
he realy does not want the job, call around.

According to Aaron Fude <[email protected]>:
> Thanks for the recommendations. To clarify, yes the floor was sanded
> and poly-ed.

> I was told by my floor refinisher that these floors would be to
> brittle to take out of a closet and move to the area of interest.
> Also, according to him, there's virtually no way of getting them out
> of the floor without busting circular saw blades on the nails.
> Finally, he's claim is that b/c it's tongue in groove, that these
> boards are "used-up" and cannot be re-used.

Once you get an edge free, it's usually fairly easy to get flooring up
without doing too much damage to the boards. Depends on remaining
board thickness, wood condition and using the right pry bar/technique.

The trick is more getting the nails out or at least cut so they
don't interfere with re-installation without damaging the boards
that much.

Busting saw blades on nails? He's not heard of demolition blades?
Gee.

Chances are he's trying to hint it's not worth the expense of him
doing it.
--
Chris Lewis,

Age and Treachery will Triumph over Youth and Skill
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.

According to dadiOH <[email protected]>:
> Doug Miller wrote:
> > In article <[email protected]>,
> > Aaron Fude <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> I need to replace a section of the floor and I'm wondering what
> >> kind of wood this is to come up with as close a match as possible:
> >>
> >> http://freeboundaries.com/floor1.jpg
> >> http://freeboundaries.com/floor2.jpg
> >
> > Not hardwood at all. It's yellow pine.
>
> Or Douglas fir. Since you are in Pennsylvania, most probably yellow
> pine.

Out of curiousity, why do you think it's pine/fir?

Yes, it being in an attic is suggestive of that. On the other
hand, it's narrow-strip flooring, and back in those days that
tended to be the "better" stuff and I'd expect it to be hardwood.

The picture isn't all that good. The grain pattern is suggestive
of Douglas Fir, oak, ash or even chestnut. In Pennsylvania back
then it's _highly_ unlikely to be Doug Fir.

I'm not at all familiar with Yellow Pine - doesn't grow here. So
that may be my problem ;-)

Eastern white pine, especially wide plank (6+ inches), is common in
farmhouses and "back rooms" in houses of this vintage and older, but
its grain pattern is _much_ less distinct, so it can't be that.

I've never seen white pine in narrow strip flooring. Is it common
in yellow?

White pine is softer than Doug Fir, but still very common as flooring,
even new. Depends on what you want.

We plan on redoing our kitchen and dining room with white pine.
Mind you, it's been sitting on the bottom of the Ottawa river
for more than 100 years. Old growth to begin with, it's "treatment"
has hardened it even more.
--
Chris Lewis,

Age and Treachery will Triumph over Youth and Skill
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.

The photos are not clear so it could be almost any wood with a strong grain.
80 year old flooring will be very aged to the core, any sanding will only
clean up the surface, it will never match the colour of new wood once you
identify it. Also if you do identify it and if you can find any, new
flooring will have different dimensions, different tongue and grooves and
will not match your old flooring unless you have the equipment and talent to
make your own.

"Aaron Fude" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi,
>
> I need to replace a section of the floor and I'm wondering what kind
> of wood this is to come up with as close a match as possible:
>
> http://freeboundaries.com/floor1.jpg
> http://freeboundaries.com/floor2.jpg
>
> It is the floor in the attic of a 1930's stone colonial in eastern PA.
> It has a very uniform feel. There is no stain - it was recently
> refinished and covered with two coats of polyurethane. It's tongue-in-
> groove.
>
> Many thanks in advance,
>
> Aaron Fude
>

Doug Miller wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>,
> Aaron Fude <[email protected]> wrote:
>> I need to replace a section of the floor and I'm wondering what
>> kind of wood this is to come up with as close a match as possible:
>>
>> http://freeboundaries.com/floor1.jpg
>> http://freeboundaries.com/floor2.jpg
>
> Not hardwood at all. It's yellow pine.

Or Douglas fir. Since you are in Pennsylvania, most probably yellow
pine.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

"Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <9r0Ti.3387$0l4.418@trnddc08>, "dadiOH" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>>Doug Miller wrote:
>>> In article <[email protected]>,
>>> Aaron Fude <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>> I need to replace a section of the floor and I'm wondering what
>>>> kind of wood this is to come up with as close a match as possible:
>>>>
>>>> http://freeboundaries.com/floor1.jpg
>>>> http://freeboundaries.com/floor2.jpg
>>>
>>> Not hardwood at all. It's yellow pine.
>>
>>Or Douglas fir.
>
> Doubtful -- it's too soft to be practical for flooring.
>
New growth Douglas fir is but old growth was actually quite hard for a
softwood.

Aaron,

I own a farmhouse in Eastern PA, and the second floor and above all have
yellow pine original floors. The downstairs has maple, which was redone
back in the 40's after removing the entire original floors, not sure why. It
has been in our family since the 1700's. My grandfather had it redone for
some unknown reason. I think when they had the house replumbed and rewired
for safety as there were two small fires in the electrical outlets in the
floor. What I like are the grates in the floor, you can look down from the
3rd floor and see the kitchen 2 stories below! The other one in the back
of the house makes a good laundry chute to the basement! You can get yellow
pine today that should match, I was able to a few years back but make sure
you go to a reputable wood dealer. My yellow pine came from the southeast
as I needed over 1000bf. I wanted to finish the attic in the same wood and
replace some damaged floor areas, to day I cannot tell where we patched in
the newer wood in the floor. At first it was noticable but in a couple of
years, you could not distinguish the two. Get a good qualified wood floor
person in your area to do the job right the first time. I did my attic
space and used it for practice, the subfloor was random width pine with gaps
up to 3/4". The attic is now my daughter's play area.

Jon


"Aaron Fude" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Oct 22, 2:01 pm, "Not@home" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> My home was build in about 1925, and at that time is was common practice
>> to use good hardwood in the "public" areas (first floor living and
>> dining room and stairways, for example) but to use either pine or
>> douglas fir in the "family" areas (upstairs bedrooms and attic). The
>> douglas fir available at that time was a better grade wood than what you
>> see today, unless you can find a source of old growth fir.
>>
>> Getting a good match with new wood will be difficult. If there are any
>> closets with matching wood, you could use that wood and replace it with
>> new wood in the closet, since no-one will notice a closet. Otherwise,
>> you might have to find an inconspicuous area and scavage the wood from
>> there. If you have the time and talent, you could build some sort of
>> pattern or border into the floor with new wood and use the old for your
>> repair.
>
> Hi,
>
> Thanks for the recommendations. To clarify, yes the floor was sanded
> and poly-ed.
>
> I was told by my floor refinisher that these floors would be to
> brittle to take out of a closet and move to the area of interest.
> Also, according to him, there's virtually no way of getting them out
> of the floor without busting circular saw blades on the nails.
> Finally, he's claim is that b/c it's tongue in groove, that these
> boards are "used-up" and cannot be re-used.
>
> What do you guys think?
>
> Thanks again,
>
> Aaron
>
>

My home was build in about 1925, and at that time is was common practice
to use good hardwood in the "public" areas (first floor living and
dining room and stairways, for example) but to use either pine or
douglas fir in the "family" areas (upstairs bedrooms and attic). The
douglas fir available at that time was a better grade wood than what you
see today, unless you can find a source of old growth fir.

Getting a good match with new wood will be difficult. If there are any
closets with matching wood, you could use that wood and replace it with
new wood in the closet, since no-one will notice a closet. Otherwise,
you might have to find an inconspicuous area and scavage the wood from
there. If you have the time and talent, you could build some sort of
pattern or border into the floor with new wood and use the old for your
repair.

Aaron Fude wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I need to replace a section of the floor and I'm wondering what kind
> of wood this is to come up with as close a match as possible:
>
> http://freeboundaries.com/floor1.jpg
> http://freeboundaries.com/floor2.jpg
>
> It is the floor in the attic of a 1930's stone colonial in eastern PA.
> It has a very uniform feel. There is no stain - it was recently
> refinished and covered with two coats of polyurethane. It's tongue-in-
> groove.
>
> Many thanks in advance,
>
> Aaron Fude
>

Looks like yellow pine lacquered .

--
Mason Pan
Blog: http://www.plywood.cc/

"Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>, Aaron
> Fude <[email protected]> wrote:
>>I need to replace a section of the floor and I'm wondering what kind
>>of wood this is to come up with as close a match as possible:
>>
>>http://freeboundaries.com/floor1.jpg
>>http://freeboundaries.com/floor2.jpg
>
> Not hardwood at all. It's yellow pine.
>>
>>It is the floor in the attic of a 1930's stone colonial in eastern PA.
>>It has a very uniform feel. There is no stain - it was recently
>>refinished and covered with two coats of polyurethane. It's tongue-in-
>>groove.
>
>
> --
> Regards,
> Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
>
> It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

Aaron Fude wrote:
> On Oct 22, 2:01 pm, "Not@home" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> My home was build in about 1925, and at that time is was common practice
>> to use good hardwood in the "public" areas (first floor living and
>> dining room and stairways, for example) but to use either pine or
>> douglas fir in the "family" areas (upstairs bedrooms and attic). The
>> douglas fir available at that time was a better grade wood than what you
>> see today, unless you can find a source of old growth fir.
>>
>> Getting a good match with new wood will be difficult. If there are any
>> closets with matching wood, you could use that wood and replace it with
>> new wood in the closet, since no-one will notice a closet. Otherwise,
>> you might have to find an inconspicuous area and scavage the wood from
>> there. If you have the time and talent, you could build some sort of
>> pattern or border into the floor with new wood and use the old for your
>> repair.
>
> Hi,
>
> Thanks for the recommendations. To clarify, yes the floor was sanded
> and poly-ed.
>
> I was told by my floor refinisher that these floors would be to
> brittle to take out of a closet and move to the area of interest.
> Also, according to him, there's virtually no way of getting them out
> of the floor without busting circular saw blades on the nails.
> Finally, he's claim is that b/c it's tongue in groove, that these
> boards are "used-up" and cannot be re-used.
>
> What do you guys think?
>
> Thanks again,
>
> Aaron
>
>

I bought a house with oak flooring that
had been put down in the '40s. Various
renovations had been done which had seen
the flooring removed and replaced with
plywood in places.

I had a flooring guy come in and
refinish the wood, and asked him to fix
the plywood areas. He pulled up some of
the old stuff, added new and replaced
everything to the point that I couldn't
tell where the plywood had been.

In pulling up the old, he sacrificed a
few planks starting out but was able to
replace them with stock - something i
don't think you can do because of the age.

However, my point is that t/g flooring
can be pulled up and put down elsewhere.
You lose a bit, but are able to match
what's there. I'd go for the closets as
others have suggested.


--
Tanus

This is not really a sig.

http://users.compzone.ca/george/shop/

Southern Yellow Pine that was badly finished....

Aaron Fude wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I need to replace a section of the floor and I'm wondering what kind
> of wood this is to come up with as close a match as possible:
>
> http://freeboundaries.com/floor1.jpg
> http://freeboundaries.com/floor2.jpg
>
> It is the floor in the attic of a 1930's stone colonial in eastern PA.
> It has a very uniform feel. There is no stain - it was recently
> refinished and covered with two coats of polyurethane. It's tongue-in-
> groove.
>
> Many thanks in advance,
>
> Aaron Fude
>

In article <9r0Ti.3387$0l4.418@trnddc08>, "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Doug Miller wrote:
>> In article <[email protected]>,
>> Aaron Fude <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> I need to replace a section of the floor and I'm wondering what
>>> kind of wood this is to come up with as close a match as possible:
>>>
>>> http://freeboundaries.com/floor1.jpg
>>> http://freeboundaries.com/floor2.jpg
>>
>> Not hardwood at all. It's yellow pine.
>
>Or Douglas fir.

Doubtful -- it's too soft to be practical for flooring.

> Since you are in Pennsylvania, most probably yellow
>pine.


--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

In article <[email protected]>, ransley <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Oct 22, 7:10 am, "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Doug Miller wrote:
>> > In article <[email protected]>,
>> > Aaron Fude <[email protected]> wrote:
>> >> I need to replace a section of the floor and I'm wondering what
>> >> kind of wood this is to come up with as close a match as possible:
>>
>> >>http://freeboundaries.com/floor1.jpg
>> >>http://freeboundaries.com/floor2.jpg
>>
>> > Not hardwood at all. It's yellow pine.
>>
>> Or Douglas fir. Since you are in Pennsylvania, most probably yellow
>> pine.
>>
>Probably yellow pine, but new wood will not have the aged look and
>will require a real wood pro to stain it correctly, like a pro
>furniture refinisher, not a floor guy. Cant you remove wood from maybe
>a closet.

He said it was "refinished" which I took to mean that it was sanded as well.
If that's the case, then new wood may actually be a pretty good match -- but
if it wasn't sanded, just stripped and revarnished, then as you say, new wood
will not match, probably not even with stain.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

In article <[email protected]>, Aaron Fude <[email protected]> wrote:
>I need to replace a section of the floor and I'm wondering what kind
>of wood this is to come up with as close a match as possible:
>
>http://freeboundaries.com/floor1.jpg
>http://freeboundaries.com/floor2.jpg

Not hardwood at all. It's yellow pine.
>
>It is the floor in the attic of a 1930's stone colonial in eastern PA.
>It has a very uniform feel. There is no stain - it was recently
>refinished and covered with two coats of polyurethane. It's tongue-in-
>groove.


--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.