Belt/Disk sander reviews

Not sure its a good recommendation or not. I have a Makita belt sander. 4=
x24 inch I think. The big handheld belt sander. I have a wood contraption=
I can turn it over and use it as a stationary sander. Small stationary sa=
nder compared to the dedicated models. Kind of a dual purpose machine with=
the little homemade stand.




On Friday, December 12, 2014 1:15:55 PM UTC-6, Bill wrote:
> Thinking a stationary belt/disk sander might be just the thing=20
>=20
> for smoothing push sticks cut out of yellow pine with my band saw, I
> started=20
>=20
> reading reviews at HF on the 3.8 Amp one they have on sale for
> $59.99.
>=20
> I know this is a "mistake" (maybe, maybe not).=A0=20
>=20
> =20
>=20
> I kept reading reviews, of all related units, 1/3 HP, 1/2 HP, 3/4
> HP..., 1.5HP
>=20
> (and even 2-3HP for people making knives, evidently they appreciate
> the=20
>=20
> *consistency* offered by greater power).
>=20
> =20
>=20
> The only group that really seemed happy, leaving out the knife
> makers, were
>=20
> those that had the 1.5HP (say Jet, at $1400, with a closed stand).=A0
> I guess this=20
>=20
> is what is known as the "slippery slope".=A0=20
>=20
> =20
>=20
> I could probably make due with my Nicholson rasp and sandpaper due
> to my "low volume".=20
>=20
> As Lew would say, my increased knowledge turned me into a "window
> shopper"
>=20
> for the moment.=A0 I just thought I would see how happy people here
> are with what
>=20
> they are using (particularly if it's still available in the market
> place).=20
>=20
> =20
>=20
> Bill

On Mon, 15 Dec 2014 03:11:47 -0500, Bill <[email protected]>
wrote:

>[email protected] wrote:
>> On Sat, 13 Dec 2014 22:00:20 +0000 (UTC), John McCoy
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> woodchucker <[email protected]> wrote in news:6oGdnbZAT_hpDRHJnZ2dnUU7-
>>> [email protected]:
>>>
>>>> The rigid is not a cheap tool. It's got an induction motor not universal
>>>> and is surprisingly well made.
>>> Ridgid (two "d"s *) power tools are a bit unpredictable. Most of
>>> them are made by Ryobi, I beleive, with corresponding quality.
>> Not really (made by Ryobi). Both are made by the parent company, TTI,
>> (the other name in the TTI group is "Milwaukee"). Ryobi is meant for
>> the low-end consumer market, while Ridgid is intended for the higher
>> end consumer and low end contractor. Milwaukee, of course, is
>> intended for the pro-sumer or industrial markets.
>>
>>> A few of them are made by other vendors (some might even be
>>> made by Emerson Electric, who actually own the Ridgid name and
>>> make the Ridgid plumbers tools), which sometimes means a higher
>>> spec tool.
>> AIUI, Ridge (Emerson) owns the (Ridge and Ridgid) trademarks but
>> they're licensed to TTI, who actually manufactures most of the tools.
>>
>> The tool biz is really convoluted.
>
>
>Just adding to what you wrote:
>
>In 2014, Tenex Capital Management New York City, NY acquired the JET,
>POWERMATIC AND WILTON brands from Walter Meier and changed the company
>name to JPW Industries where they continue to grow and outperform their
>competition with innovative, quality products and services.
>
>As if you didn't know, all of this consolidation is no good for us!

I'm not convinced. It's better that there is a consolidation than all
of these companies disappearing. The market isn't huge.

Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
> Mike Marlow wrote:
>> .
>> Is Jet a lifetime
>> warranty?
>
> Jet has a 5 year warranty, with a promise of service available after the sale.
> So far, I have confidence in them, though who knows for sure what the future holds.
>
> The more I learn about stuff, the better prepared I will be when it turns up at auction.
> This Jet OSS was there about 2 months ago (but I was previewing, the
> auction was the next day).
> A missed opportunity.

Buy the thousand dollar one Bill. You will want it to out last this thread.
:-)

Bill wrote:
> Thinking a stationary belt/disk sander might be just the thing
> for smoothing push sticks cut out of yellow pine with my band saw
<snip>
---------------------------------------------
It's a classic POS product, IMHO.

Better to get a 12" disk sander and a separate spindle sander.

Even at H/F, you are looking at $140 apiece, but at least you
will have some decent equipment.

Lew

"Bill" wrote:

> Sorry if it got annoying.
------------------------------------------------------
That's to be expected after about the tenth response.

Lew

On 12/13/2014 12:49 AM, Bill wrote:
> Lew Hodgett wrote:
>> Bill wrote:
>>> Thinking a stationary belt/disk sander might be just the thing
>>> for smoothing push sticks cut out of yellow pine with my band saw
>> <snip>
>> ---------------------------------------------
>> It's a classic POS product, IMHO.
>>
>> Better to get a 12" disk sander and a separate spindle sander.
>>
>> Even at H/F, you are looking at $140 apiece, but at least you
>> will have some decent equipment.
>>
>> Lew
>>
>
> Tonight I worked my way from there. To the Ridgid oss/edge sander combo
> tool ($200) which I looked at long enough
> until it started seeming cheap (i.e. of somewhat low quality) to me.
> Then up to the Jet benchtop 12" sander and OSS
> which are about $1K for the two. The Jet OSS as well as the Ridgid OSS
> both have mitered (tilting) tables. It seems like
> a nice way to bevel off the corners (of many things). I will see how I
> do first with the spokeshave and hand plane (as John suggested).
> I am likely to enjoy the peace and quiet they offer.
>
> Bill
>
>
>
The rigid is not a cheap tool. It's got an induction motor not universal
and is surprisingly well made.



--
Jeff

>"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>Thinking a stationary belt/disk sander might be just the thing
>for smoothing push sticks cut out of yellow pine with my band saw, I
>started


I'd be curious to know the shape of these push sticks. This as my initial
reaction was to use a jointer or a hand plane and/or spoke shave to smooth
them. Pretty much any outside curve can be handled with a plane and inside
curves with a spoke shave. Using these tools could turn out to be faster
than the rasp or sanding...

On 12/13/2014 8:11 PM, Bill wrote:
> woodchucker wrote:
>> I found a unit that I rebuilt. I use it a lot.
>> I also recently aquired a Rigid belt and spindle.. haven't used it
>> much, didn't like the belt as much as I thought, prefer my old one. I
>> do like the spindle and oscilation, and dust collection.
>>
>> But if I didn't have the old one I might appreciate the belt more.
>
> I'm curious how well it would work on polycarbonate, to "remove BS
> marks". I may have to buy one to find out...
> I think it would either work "great" or "crappy" (melting the poly).
> Interesting that NONE of the benchtop units are variable
> speed, unlike most of their handheld counterparts.
>
>
>
>>
>> I also have a 1" wide crapsman that I love too. I use it mostly for
>> metal but also replace the belt for wood that needs a small belt or an
>> inside done as this can be threaded through and remounted to do inside
>> sanding.
>>
>>
>>
>
you would melt the polyc.

that's because they are induction motors while the hand held are
universal motors. The induction can not be speed controlled by voltage.

--
Jeff

"Bill" wrote in message news:[email protected]...

>Maybe I should go to the doctor and find out whether I have an Iron
>deficiency? ; )

LOL

On 12/13/2014 10:59 PM, Bill wrote:
> woodchucker wrote:
>> On 12/13/2014 8:11 PM, Bill wrote:
>>> woodchucker wrote:
>>>> I found a unit that I rebuilt. I use it a lot.
>>>> I also recently aquired a Rigid belt and spindle.. haven't used it
>>>> much, didn't like the belt as much as I thought, prefer my old one. I
>>>> do like the spindle and oscilation, and dust collection.
>>>>
>>>> But if I didn't have the old one I might appreciate the belt more.
>>>
>>> I'm curious how well it would work on polycarbonate, to "remove BS
>>> marks". I may have to buy one to find out...
>>> I think it would either work "great" or "crappy" (melting the poly).
>>> Interesting that NONE of the benchtop units are variable
>>> speed, unlike most of their handheld counterparts.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>> I also have a 1" wide crapsman that I love too. I use it mostly for
>>>> metal but also replace the belt for wood that needs a small belt or an
>>>> inside done as this can be threaded through and remounted to do inside
>>>> sanding.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>> you would melt the polyc.
>>
>> that's because they are induction motors while the hand held are
>> universal motors. The induction can not be speed controlled by voltage.
>>
>
> Thank you for that short lesson about motors, it is worth remembering! I
> went and visited the Ridgid sander at Home Depot tonight,
> and went to Menards too, as long as I was driving by, for the stated
> purpose of checking sanding tube availability, as well as window
> shopping the pneumatic tools.
> I have to say that the MasterForce (Menards brand) tools appear that
> they would hold up better than the Ridgid brand tools to me. I'd pay
> more to get more.
> I think the Ridgid sander is intended to be a "consumable" much like
> Swingman described the 3-6 gallon air compressors. I think the same
> applied to all of the "plastic" handheld power tools at Menards, I
> suppose--that's just about ALL they have. I don't argue that they don't
> provide good value. I saw someone write, "they won't remind you of your
> grandfather's tools...". Somewhere tucked in the back of my memory is
> a Porter Cable belt sander from 1978, or so--that someone was Proud to
> show me. They didn't have anything bigger than a 3" plastic handheld
> belt sander at Menards. The salesman said that's what the "average joe"
> wants. Lew has told me before, I was shopping in the wrong places. I'll
> give my hand tools a spin.
>
> Cheers,
> Bill
>
>
>
>
>
Most hand held tools today are plastic Bill. In many ways it's superior.
It's lighter, it's self insulating (electrically). It can drop without
cracking the case to some degree. Even the Festools are plastic Bill. I
think you are being too critical. With your experience I think most will
work for you.

--
Jeff

On 12/14/2014 11:33 AM, John McCoy wrote:
> Bill <[email protected]> wrote in news:m6i5lb01mq7
> @news7.newsguy.com:
>
>> John McCoy wrote:
>
>>> To back up what John(*) said, if you don't have one of these:
>>>
>>> https://www.lie-nielsen.com/product/block-planes/small-block-planes?
>>> node=4072
>>>
>>> or something similar, you need one.
>>
>> Lie_Nielsen, huh? I have "something similar"! :)
>
> Not so long ago, if you wanted a plane your choice was either
> rehabilitating an old Stanley, or buying from Lie-Nielsen.
> Now there are more choices in quality planes, but out of
> habit I always recommend L-N. (plus many of the Veritas
> planes are just plain ugly, whereas the L-N all look like
> a tool should look).
>
> John
>
I have both. They are both good quality.

The veritas have some nice features. I like the set screws that center
the blade so you don't chip the blade on the corner. Wish the lie
nielsen would have that. I don't have any bronze castings, but a friend
does and he claims that they color his wood as he works with them and
curses them out. my bronze is in the handle on an 60 1/2 block plane, I
have the pre-nicker model.

I love my LN dovetail saw. Would like some of their bedrocks...
But I like my Veritas low angle #5. I like having multiple blades.

--
Jeff

Lew Hodgett wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>> Thinking a stationary belt/disk sander might be just the thing
>> for smoothing push sticks cut out of yellow pine with my band saw
> <snip>
> ---------------------------------------------
> It's a classic POS product, IMHO.
>
> Better to get a 12" disk sander and a separate spindle sander.
>
> Even at H/F, you are looking at $140 apiece, but at least you
> will have some decent equipment.
>
> Lew
>
>
I have a disk sander (as well as belt sanders, and others) and I find
that I seldom use it. Seems like I alternate between needing coarse
grit for evening something out and fine for other uses. I HATE
changing the disk, and often cannot use it again because the glue
sticks to the metal instead of coming off with the sandpaper. It is
much easier to change a belt. Maybe I need several disk sanders with
different grits on them.

--
 GW Ross 

 The more you explain it, the less I 
 understand it -- Twain 

"dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:

> "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]
>> Thinking a stationary belt/disk sander might be just the thing
>> for smoothing push sticks cut out of yellow pine with my band saw, I
>> started
>> reading reviews at HF on the 3.8 Amp one they have on sale for
>> $59.99. I know this is a "mistake" (maybe, maybe not).
>>
>> I kept reading reviews, of all related units, 1/3 HP, 1/2 HP, 3/4
>> HP..., 1.5HP
>> (and even 2-3HP for people making knives, evidently they appreciate
>> the *consistency* offered by greater power).
>>
>> The only group that really seemed happy, leaving out the knife
>> makers, were those that had the 1.5HP (say Jet, at $1400, with a
>> closed stand). I
>> guess this
>> is what is known as the "slippery slope".
>>
>> I could probably make due with my Nicholson rasp and sandpaper due to
>> my "low volume".
>> As Lew would say, my increased knowledge turned me into a "window
>> shopper"
>> for the moment. I just thought I would see how happy people here are
>> with what
>> they are using (particularly if it's still available in the market
>> place).
>>
>> Bill
>
> I have a Rikon. It is alright. I use the disk a lot, belt rarely.
> If I had it to do over, I would probably go for a 12" disk (only)
> sander and skip the belt.

I'd agree with dadiOH. I have a 4x24 stationary belt+disk
sander (ancient Delta model) which very very rarely gets
used. Generally only if I need to adjust the size of a
piece of particle board or something like that that I don't
want to use a plane on(*). The disk & table can be useful.
More often the hand-held belt sander is more useful than
the stationary belt.

(you can plane particle board, of course, but only if you
don't mind sharpening the blade frequently).

John

Bill <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> John Grossbohlin wrote:

>> I'd be curious to know the shape of these push sticks. This as my
>> initial reaction was to use a jointer or a hand plane and/or spoke
>> shave to smooth them. Pretty much any outside curve can be handled
>> with a plane and inside curves with a spoke shave. Using these tools
>> could turn out to be faster than the rasp or sanding...
>
> Thank you for that insight, John! It had not occurred to me to use a
> plane or a spoke shave for the curves--and it was *never* going to
> occur to me to use a plane that way!
> I appreciate the lesson!

To back up what John(*) said, if you don't have one of these:

https://www.lie-nielsen.com/product/block-planes/small-block-planes?
node=4072

or something similar, you need one. It's the most useful tool
in the shop, ideal for making tiny adjustments in length or
thickness, putting a quick chamfer on an edge, making a square-
section piece into a round section (I used mine to make the
mast & yards for my sailing dingy)...you'll find it's always
on your bench.

John

(* sometimes I think there's too many of us Johns)

woodchucker <[email protected]> wrote in news:6oGdnbZAT_hpDRHJnZ2dnUU7-
[email protected]:

> The rigid is not a cheap tool. It's got an induction motor not universal
> and is surprisingly well made.

Ridgid (two "d"s *) power tools are a bit unpredictable. Most of
them are made by Ryobi, I beleive, with corresponding quality.
A few of them are made by other vendors (some might even be
made by Emerson Electric, who actually own the Ridgid name and
make the Ridgid plumbers tools), which sometimes means a higher
spec tool.

John

(* the founder's name was Ridge)

Bill <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:

> They didn't have anything bigger than a 3" plastic handheld
> belt sander at Menards. The salesman said that's what the "average joe"
> wants.

FWIW, a 4" handheld belt sander can be tedious to use. For
most applications a 3x21 is sufficient and easier to handle.

John

"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> I've never been in a Menards store Bill, so I have no idea what the
> quality of their private label tools are, but I can tell you that
> Ridgid brand is a very good brand of tool. It would surprise me if a
> chain store sold a private label tool that was superior in quality to
> it.

As I mentioned elsewhere, most Ridgid tools are made by Ryobi.

I leave it to everyone's individual opinions as to the quality
of Ryobi tools, and whether Ridgid branded tools are better
or worse than Ryobi branded ones.

(but I agree that Menard's house brand is unlikely to be of
any better quality).

John

Bill <[email protected]> wrote in news:m6i5lb01mq7
@news7.newsguy.com:

> John McCoy wrote:

>> To back up what John(*) said, if you don't have one of these:
>>
>> https://www.lie-nielsen.com/product/block-planes/small-block-planes?
>> node=4072
>>
>> or something similar, you need one.
>
> Lie_Nielsen, huh? I have "something similar"! :)

Not so long ago, if you wanted a plane your choice was either
rehabilitating an old Stanley, or buying from Lie-Nielsen.
Now there are more choices in quality planes, but out of
habit I always recommend L-N. (plus many of the Veritas
planes are just plain ugly, whereas the L-N all look like
a tool should look).

John

woodchucker <[email protected]> wrote in news:UuSdnf8gY4z3RRDJnZ2dnUU7-
[email protected]:

> I have both. They are both good quality.
>
> The veritas have some nice features.

Agreed, by all accounts they're fine planes and the other Lee
Valley stuff I have is good. Just some of them don't have the
classic look that a plane should have.

> I don't have any bronze castings, but a friend
> does and he claims that they color his wood as he works with them and
> curses them out.

Can't say I've observed that. Years ago L-N occasionally did
planes in "German Silver", a nickle-based bronze. I have a
#2 (which I don't use) and the small block plane in it, and
it's probably the ideal metal for planes, except for the cost.

John

[email protected] wrote in news:[email protected]:

> On Sat, 13 Dec 2014 22:00:20 +0000 (UTC), John McCoy
> <[email protected]> wrote:

>>A few of them are made by other vendors (some might even be
>>made by Emerson Electric, who actually own the Ridgid name and
>>make the Ridgid plumbers tools), which sometimes means a higher
>>spec tool.
>
> AIUI, Ridge (Emerson) owns the (Ridge and Ridgid) trademarks but
> they're licensed to TTI, who actually manufactures most of the tools.

> The tool biz is really convoluted.

I'm not sure if the Ridgid name is licensed to TTI or to Home
Depot (who in turn contract it to TTI).

But my main point there was that Emerson still makes the
plumbers tools (which was Ridgid's original claim to fame).

John

"dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:

> Most disk sanders seem to be about 3500 rpm; at that speed, it is easy
> to burn wood, need to have a light touch which is easy enough to do.
> Still, I'd rather have one that is doing 1750 rpm; trouble is, they
> charge more for them, no idea why.

More expensive to make a 1750 rpm motor. A motor with two
poles will turn at 3600 rpm on 60Hz AC line (unloaded, the
loaded speed will be around 3450 rpm). A motor with four
poles will run 1800 rpm (unloaded, around 1750 loaded).
None too surprisingly, it takes more material and effort
to make a 4-pole motor (altho not a whole lot more). So
2-pole motors are the most widely available and cheapest.

John

On Friday, December 12, 2014 1:20:56 PM UTC-6, Bill wrote:
> Bill wrote:
> > Thinking a stationary belt/disk sander might be just the thing


As a hobbyist, I've been using a 1975 Craftsman 4X24 handheld belt sander.=
I flip it over, as Russell, to use as a stationary. Just recently, it i=
s showing signs of the brushes or something wearing out. It's been making =
ugly groaning noises at startup. After a minute or 2, it sounds better, b=
ut it's not purring.

I vote get a good handheld, for now..... heavy weight and increase AMPs. W=
ith the handheld, let the weight of the sander be the applied pressure, i.e=
., don't apply additional pressure, while sanding.

Sonny

On 12/12/2014 2:11 PM, Bill wrote:
> Thinking a stationary belt/disk sander might be just the thing
> for smoothing push sticks cut out of yellow pine with my band saw, I
> started
> reading reviews at HF on the 3.8 Amp one they have on sale for $59.99.
> I know this is a "mistake" (maybe, maybe not).
>
> I kept reading reviews, of all related units, 1/3 HP, 1/2 HP, 3/4 HP...,
> 1.5HP
> (and even 2-3HP for people making knives, evidently they appreciate the
> *consistency* offered by greater power).
>
> The only group that really seemed happy, leaving out the knife makers, were
> those that had the 1.5HP (say Jet, at $1400, with a closed stand). I
> guess this
> is what is known as the "slippery slope".
>
> I could probably make due with my Nicholson rasp and sandpaper due to my
> "low volume".
> As Lew would say, my increased knowledge turned me into a "window shopper"
> for the moment. I just thought I would see how happy people here are
> with what
> they are using (particularly if it's still available in the market place).
>
> Bill
>
>
I found a unit that I rebuilt. I use it a lot.
I also recently aquired a Rigid belt and spindle.. haven't used it much,
didn't like the belt as much as I thought, prefer my old one. I do like
the spindle and oscilation, and dust collection.

But if I didn't have the old one I might appreciate the belt more.

I also have a 1" wide crapsman that I love too. I use it mostly for
metal but also replace the belt for wood that needs a small belt or an
inside done as this can be threaded through and remounted to do inside
sanding.



--
Jeff

On 12/15/2014 12:20 PM, Bill wrote:
> Leon wrote:
>> Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> Mike Marlow wrote:
>>>> .
>>>> Is Jet a lifetime
>>>> warranty?
>>> Jet has a 5 year warranty, with a promise of service available after
>>> the sale.
>>> So far, I have confidence in them, though who knows for sure what the
>>> future holds.
>>>
>>> The more I learn about stuff, the better prepared I will be when it
>>> turns up at auction.
>>> This Jet OSS was there about 2 months ago (but I was previewing, the
>>> auction was the next day).
>>> A missed opportunity.
>> Buy the thousand dollar one Bill. You will want it to out last this
>> thread.
>> :-)
>
> Sorry if it got annoying.
>

Na Na Na Na, I'm just pulling your leg. Can't believe I did not get
involved in this before now. :~)

On 12/12/2014 5:58 PM, Sonny wrote:
> On Friday, December 12, 2014 1:20:56 PM UTC-6, Bill wrote:
>> Bill wrote:
>>> Thinking a stationary belt/disk sander might be just the thing
>
>
> As a hobbyist, I've been using a 1975 Craftsman 4X24 handheld belt sander. I flip it over, as Russell, to use as a stationary. Just recently, it is showing signs of the brushes or something wearing out. It's been making ugly groaning noises at startup. After a minute or 2, it sounds better, but it's not purring.
>
> I vote get a good handheld, for now..... heavy weight and increase AMPs. With the handheld, let the weight of the sander be the applied pressure, i.e., don't apply additional pressure, while sanding.
>
> Sonny
>

I have a Ryobi handheld that is like the Bosch. It has a sanding frame
so it can be used for large flattening. The frame is great.

The flat top on it makes it easy to flip over but I don't need to use
it. Like I said b4.

--
Jeff

Bill wrote:
> Thinking a stationary belt/disk sander might be just the thing
> for smoothing push sticks cut out of yellow pine with my band saw, I
> started
> reading reviews at HF on the 3.8 Amp one they have on sale for $59.99.
> I know this is a "mistake" (maybe, maybe not).

OOPs, I just double-checked, that is 3.5 Amps, rated at 3/4HP (ha
ha ha!)

>
> I kept reading reviews, of all related units, 1/3 HP, 1/2 HP, 3/4
> HP..., 1.5HP
> (and even 2-3HP for people making knives, evidently they appreciate the
> *consistency* offered by greater power).
>
> The only group that really seemed happy, leaving out the knife makers,
> were
> those that had the 1.5HP (say Jet, at $1400, with a closed stand). I
> guess this
> is what is known as the "slippery slope".
>
> I could probably make due with my Nicholson rasp and sandpaper due to
> my "low volume".
> As Lew would say, my increased knowledge turned me into a "window shopper"
> for the moment. I just thought I would see how happy people here are
> with what
> they are using (particularly if it's still available in the market
> place).
>
> Bill
>
>

"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]
> Thinking a stationary belt/disk sander might be just the thing
> for smoothing push sticks cut out of yellow pine with my band saw, I
> started
> reading reviews at HF on the 3.8 Amp one they have on sale for $59.99.
> I know this is a "mistake" (maybe, maybe not).
>
> I kept reading reviews, of all related units, 1/3 HP, 1/2 HP, 3/4 HP...,
> 1.5HP
> (and even 2-3HP for people making knives, evidently they appreciate the
> *consistency* offered by greater power).
>
> The only group that really seemed happy, leaving out the knife makers,
> were those that had the 1.5HP (say Jet, at $1400, with a closed stand).
> I
> guess this
> is what is known as the "slippery slope".
>
> I could probably make due with my Nicholson rasp and sandpaper due to my
> "low volume".
> As Lew would say, my increased knowledge turned me into a "window
> shopper"
> for the moment. I just thought I would see how happy people here are
> with what
> they are using (particularly if it's still available in the market
> place).
>
> Bill

I have a Rikon. It is alright. I use the disk a lot, belt rarely. If I
had it to do over, I would probably go for a 12" disk (only) sander and
skip the belt.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

Bill wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>> Thinking a stationary belt/disk sander might be just the thing
>> for smoothing push sticks cut out of yellow pine with my band saw, I
>> started
>> reading reviews at HF on the 3.8 Amp one they have on sale for
>> $59.99. I know this is a "mistake" (maybe, maybe not).
>
> OOPs, I just double-checked, that is 3.5 Amps, rated at 3/4HP (ha
> ha ha!)
>

Bill - I you still on the hunt to buy equipment before you actually even
start using anything? You're going to end up with a cool shop worth of
stuff that has never even been used. Come on Boy - get using some of the
stuff you've got...

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

Mike Marlow wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>> Bill wrote:
>>> Thinking a stationary belt/disk sander might be just the thing
>>> for smoothing push sticks cut out of yellow pine with my band saw, I
>>> started
>>> reading reviews at HF on the 3.8 Amp one they have on sale for
>>> $59.99. I know this is a "mistake" (maybe, maybe not).
>> OOPs, I just double-checked, that is 3.5 Amps, rated at 3/4HP (ha
>> ha ha!)
>>
> Bill - I you still on the hunt to buy equipment before you actually even
> start using anything? You're going to end up with a cool shop worth of
> stuff that has never even been used. Come on Boy - get using some of the
> stuff you've got...

Didn't I say I was making push sticks? And, I mean ones suitable for
giving away to friends. : )

>

John Grossbohlin wrote:
>> "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>> Thinking a stationary belt/disk sander might be just the thing
>> for smoothing push sticks cut out of yellow pine with my band saw, I
>> started
>
>
> I'd be curious to know the shape of these push sticks. This as my
> initial reaction was to use a jointer or a hand plane and/or spoke
> shave to smooth them. Pretty much any outside curve can be handled
> with a plane and inside curves with a spoke shave. Using these tools
> could turn out to be faster than the rasp or sanding...

Thank you for that insight, John! It had not occurred to me to use a
plane or a spoke shave for the curves--and it was *never* going to occur
to me to use a plane that way!
I appreciate the lesson!

Bill

>
>

Mike Marlow wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>> Bill wrote:
>>> Thinking a stationary belt/disk sander might be just the thing
>>> for smoothing push sticks cut out of yellow pine with my band saw, I
>>> started
>>> reading reviews at HF on the 3.8 Amp one they have on sale for
>>> $59.99. I know this is a "mistake" (maybe, maybe not).
>> OOPs, I just double-checked, that is 3.5 Amps, rated at 3/4HP (ha
>> ha ha!)
>>
> Bill - I you still on the hunt to buy equipment before you actually even
> start using anything? You're going to end up with a cool shop worth of
> stuff that has never even been used. Come on Boy - get using some of the
> stuff you've got...

I'm learning. Look what John taught me with his post! And I learned
quite a bit about air compressors, and their
substitutes such as electric paint sprayers, last week! I'm sure if you
lived next door and could provide me with your instruction
that I would be further along. And I could maybe borrow your tools! ; )

Bill



>

Lew Hodgett wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>> Thinking a stationary belt/disk sander might be just the thing
>> for smoothing push sticks cut out of yellow pine with my band saw
> <snip>
> ---------------------------------------------
> It's a classic POS product, IMHO.
>
> Better to get a 12" disk sander and a separate spindle sander.
>
> Even at H/F, you are looking at $140 apiece, but at least you
> will have some decent equipment.
>
> Lew
>

Tonight I worked my way from there. To the Ridgid oss/edge sander combo
tool ($200) which I looked at long enough
until it started seeming cheap (i.e. of somewhat low quality) to me.
Then up to the Jet benchtop 12" sander and OSS
which are about $1K for the two. The Jet OSS as well as the Ridgid OSS
both have mitered (tilting) tables. It seems like
a nice way to bevel off the corners (of many things). I will see how I
do first with the spokeshave and hand plane (as John suggested).
I am likely to enjoy the peace and quiet they offer.

Bill

Mike Marlow wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>> Bill wrote:
>>> Thinking a stationary belt/disk sander might be just the thing
>>> for smoothing push sticks cut out of yellow pine with my band saw, I
>>> started
>>> reading reviews at HF on the 3.8 Amp one they have on sale for
>>> $59.99. I know this is a "mistake" (maybe, maybe not).
>> OOPs, I just double-checked, that is 3.5 Amps, rated at 3/4HP (ha
>> ha ha!)
>>
> Bill - I you still on the hunt to buy equipment before you actually even
> start using anything? You're going to end up with a cool shop worth of
> stuff that has never even been used. Come on Boy - get using some of the
> stuff you've got...
>

Maybe I should go to the doctor and find out whether I have an Iron
deficiency? ; )

Lew Hodgett wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>> Thinking a stationary belt/disk sander might be just the thing
>> for smoothing push sticks cut out of yellow pine with my band saw
> <snip>
> ---------------------------------------------
> It's a classic POS product, IMHO.
>
> Better to get a 12" disk sander and a separate spindle sander.
>
> Even at H/F, you are looking at $140 apiece, but at least you
> will have some decent equipment.
>
> Lew
>
>
Here you go Lew, here's both in one:

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Oscillating-Spindle-12-Disc-Sander/G0529

Bill wrote:
> Mike Marlow wrote:
>> Bill wrote:
>>> Bill wrote:
>>>> Thinking a stationary belt/disk sander might be just the thing
>>>> for smoothing push sticks cut out of yellow pine with my band saw,
>>>> I started
>>>> reading reviews at HF on the 3.8 Amp one they have on sale for
>>>> $59.99. I know this is a "mistake" (maybe, maybe not).
>>> OOPs, I just double-checked, that is 3.5 Amps, rated at 3/4HP
>>> (ha ha ha!)
>>>
>> Bill - I you still on the hunt to buy equipment before you actually
>> even start using anything? You're going to end up with a cool shop
>> worth of stuff that has never even been used. Come on Boy - get
>> using some of the stuff you've got...
>
> Didn't I say I was making push sticks? And, I mean ones suitable for
> giving away to friends. : )


Now that's a Christmas gift idea. I'd order one for my wife but I'm afraid
she'd use it on me...

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

Bill wrote:
> Mike Marlow wrote:
>> Bill wrote:
>>> Bill wrote:
>>>> Thinking a stationary belt/disk sander might be just the thing
>>>> for smoothing push sticks cut out of yellow pine with my band saw,
>>>> I started
>>>> reading reviews at HF on the 3.8 Amp one they have on sale for
>>>> $59.99. I know this is a "mistake" (maybe, maybe not).
>>> OOPs, I just double-checked, that is 3.5 Amps, rated at 3/4HP
>>> (ha ha ha!)
>>>
>> Bill - I you still on the hunt to buy equipment before you actually
>> even start using anything? You're going to end up with a cool shop
>> worth of stuff that has never even been used. Come on Boy - get
>> using some of the stuff you've got...
>
> I'm learning. Look what John taught me with his post! And I learned
> quite a bit about air compressors, and their
> substitutes such as electric paint sprayers, last week! I'm sure if
> you lived next door and could provide me with your instruction
> that I would be further along. And I could maybe borrow your tools! ; )


Oh no - you probably don't want to take advice from me! Unless you like
learning things the hard way, that is.

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

These are good points. Get a heavy belt sander and use it upside down when
you need to. Two jobs in one.

For a disc sander, make your own. I used an old motor and mounted a pulley
on it, then drilled and tapped three screw holes to hold a round piece of
MDF for the disc sandpaper base. You can stick the shaft of the motor out a
little past the pulley to use as a pilot center for the disc to keep it
centered. I made a rest for the wood out of some plywood and hinged it with
some piano hinge on the sides, so I can tilt the rest and sand bevels. On
the rest, I also put two threaded inserts to hold a fixed miter gauge so I
can repeat the same angle again and again.
this is a case where power is not real important. If you press hard enough
into the disc that you need a bigger motor, all you do is load up or ruin
the sandpaper. I think mine is about 1/5 HP, or about 4 amps.

"woodchucker" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...

On 12/12/2014 5:58 PM, Sonny wrote:
> On Friday, December 12, 2014 1:20:56 PM UTC-6, Bill wrote:
>> Bill wrote:
>>> Thinking a stationary belt/disk sander might be just the thing
>
>
> As a hobbyist, I've been using a 1975 Craftsman 4X24 handheld belt
> sander. I flip it over, as Russell, to use as a stationary. Just
> recently, it is showing signs of the brushes or something wearing out.
> It's been making ugly groaning noises at startup. After a minute or 2,
> it sounds better, but it's not purring.
>
> I vote get a good handheld, for now..... heavy weight and increase AMPs.
> With the handheld, let the weight of the sander be the applied pressure,
> i.e., don't apply additional pressure, while sanding.
>
> Sonny
>

I have a Ryobi handheld that is like the Bosch. It has a sanding frame
so it can be used for large flattening. The frame is great.

The flat top on it makes it easy to flip over but I don't need to use
it. Like I said b4.

--
Jeff


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John McCoy wrote:
> Bill <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> John Grossbohlin wrote:
>>> I'd be curious to know the shape of these push sticks. This as my
>>> initial reaction was to use a jointer or a hand plane and/or spoke
>>> shave to smooth them. Pretty much any outside curve can be handled
>>> with a plane and inside curves with a spoke shave. Using these tools
>>> could turn out to be faster than the rasp or sanding...
>> Thank you for that insight, John! It had not occurred to me to use a
>> plane or a spoke shave for the curves--and it was *never* going to
>> occur to me to use a plane that way!
>> I appreciate the lesson!
> To back up what John(*) said, if you don't have one of these:
>
> https://www.lie-nielsen.com/product/block-planes/small-block-planes?
> node=4072
>
> or something similar, you need one.

Lie_Nielsen, huh? I have "something similar"! :)

Cheers,
Bill

> It's the most useful tool
> in the shop, ideal for making tiny adjustments in length or
> thickness, putting a quick chamfer on an edge, making a square-
> section piece into a round section (I used mine to make the
> mast & yards for my sailing dingy)...you'll find it's always
> on your bench.
>
> John
>
> (* sometimes I think there's too many of us Johns)

woodchucker wrote:
> On 12/13/2014 12:49 AM, Bill wrote:
>> Lew Hodgett wrote:
>>> Bill wrote:
>>>> Thinking a stationary belt/disk sander might be just the thing
>>>> for smoothing push sticks cut out of yellow pine with my band saw
>>> <snip>
>>> ---------------------------------------------
>>> It's a classic POS product, IMHO.
>>>
>>> Better to get a 12" disk sander and a separate spindle sander.
>>>
>>> Even at H/F, you are looking at $140 apiece, but at least you
>>> will have some decent equipment.
>>>
>>> Lew
>>>
>>
>> Tonight I worked my way from there. To the Ridgid oss/edge sander combo
>> tool ($200) which I looked at long enough
>> until it started seeming cheap (i.e. of somewhat low quality) to me.
>> Then up to the Jet benchtop 12" sander and OSS
>> which are about $1K for the two. The Jet OSS as well as the Ridgid OSS
>> both have mitered (tilting) tables. It seems like
>> a nice way to bevel off the corners (of many things). I will see how I
>> do first with the spokeshave and hand plane (as John suggested).
>> I am likely to enjoy the peace and quiet they offer.
>>
>> Bill
>>
>>
>>
> The rigid is not a cheap tool. It's got an induction motor not
> universal and is surprisingly well made.
>

Thank you for your comment, Jeff. Coming back "down to Earth", that
tool should probably be on my short wish list.
Probably a common situation among those here, my wife was urging me to
go to the store to choose a tool for myself for Christmas.
I'll watch whether maybe the Ridgid edge/OSS goes on sale in the next
few weeks. In the meantime, I'll try out my spokeshave! : )
I think my 2 spokeshaves, which I picked up at auction, are flat (as
opposed to round), but it should be okay...


I ordered this book and gave it to my wife to wrap up for Christmas


"40 Power Tools You Can Make (Woodworking Classics)"

I hope she likes it! ; )

Bill

woodchucker wrote:
> I found a unit that I rebuilt. I use it a lot.
> I also recently aquired a Rigid belt and spindle.. haven't used it
> much, didn't like the belt as much as I thought, prefer my old one. I
> do like the spindle and oscilation, and dust collection.
>
> But if I didn't have the old one I might appreciate the belt more.

I'm curious how well it would work on polycarbonate, to "remove BS
marks". I may have to buy one to find out...
I think it would either work "great" or "crappy" (melting the poly).
Interesting that NONE of the benchtop units are variable
speed, unlike most of their handheld counterparts.



>
> I also have a 1" wide crapsman that I love too. I use it mostly for
> metal but also replace the belt for wood that needs a small belt or an
> inside done as this can be threaded through and remounted to do inside
> sanding.
>
>
>

woodchucker wrote:
> On 12/13/2014 8:11 PM, Bill wrote:
>> woodchucker wrote:
>>> I found a unit that I rebuilt. I use it a lot.
>>> I also recently aquired a Rigid belt and spindle.. haven't used it
>>> much, didn't like the belt as much as I thought, prefer my old one. I
>>> do like the spindle and oscilation, and dust collection.
>>>
>>> But if I didn't have the old one I might appreciate the belt more.
>>
>> I'm curious how well it would work on polycarbonate, to "remove BS
>> marks". I may have to buy one to find out...
>> I think it would either work "great" or "crappy" (melting the poly).
>> Interesting that NONE of the benchtop units are variable
>> speed, unlike most of their handheld counterparts.
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>> I also have a 1" wide crapsman that I love too. I use it mostly for
>>> metal but also replace the belt for wood that needs a small belt or an
>>> inside done as this can be threaded through and remounted to do inside
>>> sanding.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
> you would melt the polyc.
>
> that's because they are induction motors while the hand held are
> universal motors. The induction can not be speed controlled by voltage.
>

Thank you for that short lesson about motors, it is worth remembering!
I went and visited the Ridgid sander at Home Depot tonight,
and went to Menards too, as long as I was driving by, for the stated
purpose of checking sanding tube availability, as well as window
shopping the pneumatic tools.
I have to say that the MasterForce (Menards brand) tools appear that
they would hold up better than the Ridgid brand tools to me. I'd pay
more to get more.
I think the Ridgid sander is intended to be a "consumable" much like
Swingman described the 3-6 gallon air compressors. I think the same
applied to all of the "plastic" handheld power tools at Menards, I
suppose--that's just about ALL they have. I don't argue that they don't
provide good value. I saw someone write, "they won't remind you of your
grandfather's tools...". Somewhere tucked in the back of my memory is
a Porter Cable belt sander from 1978, or so--that someone was Proud to
show me. They didn't have anything bigger than a 3" plastic handheld
belt sander at Menards. The salesman said that's what the "average joe"
wants. Lew has told me before, I was shopping in the wrong places.
I'll give my hand tools a spin.

Cheers,
Bill

"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]
> woodchucker wrote:
> > I found a unit that I rebuilt. I use it a lot.
> > I also recently aquired a Rigid belt and spindle.. haven't used it
> > much, didn't like the belt as much as I thought, prefer my old one. I
> > do like the spindle and oscilation, and dust collection.
> >
> > But if I didn't have the old one I might appreciate the belt more.
>
> I'm curious how well it would work on polycarbonate, to "remove BS
> marks". I may have to buy one to find out...
> I think it would either work "great" or "crappy" (melting the poly).
> Interesting that NONE of the benchtop units are variable
> speed, unlike most of their handheld counterparts.


I have no idea what "BS marks" might be but it sands OK to remove/shape
material. All plastics do but you get a buildup of fused particles along
the trailing edge. Easy to knock off with a file or knife.


--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

Bill wrote:

> I have to say that the MasterForce (Menards brand) tools appear that
> they would hold up better than the Ridgid brand tools to me. I'd pay
> more to get more.
> I think the Ridgid sander is intended to be a "consumable" much like
> Swingman described the 3-6 gallon air compressors.

I've never been in a Menards store Bill, so I have no idea what the quality
of their private label tools are, but I can tell you that Ridgid brand is a
very good brand of tool. It would surprise me if a chain store sold a
private label tool that was superior in quality to it.

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

dadiOH wrote:
> "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]
>> woodchucker wrote:
>> > I found a unit that I rebuilt. I use it a lot.
>> > I also recently aquired a Rigid belt and spindle.. haven't used it
>> > much, didn't like the belt as much as I thought, prefer my old one. I
>> > do like the spindle and oscilation, and dust collection.
>> >
>> > But if I didn't have the old one I might appreciate the belt more.
>>
>> I'm curious how well it would work on polycarbonate, to "remove BS
>> marks". I may have to buy one to find out...
>> I think it would either work "great" or "crappy" (melting the poly).
>> Interesting that NONE of the benchtop units are variable
>> speed, unlike most of their handheld counterparts.
>
>
> I have no idea what "BS marks" might be but it sands OK to
> remove/shape material. All plastics do but you get a buildup of fused
> particles along the trailing edge. Easy to knock off with a file or
> knife.
>
>

Sorry, "BS marks" = marks left by a band saw. Thank you for your answer!

Bill

Mike Marlow wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>
>> I have to say that the MasterForce (Menards brand) tools appear that
>> they would hold up better than the Ridgid brand tools to me. I'd pay
>> more to get more.
>> I think the Ridgid sander is intended to be a "consumable" much like
>> Swingman described the 3-6 gallon air compressors.
> I've never been in a Menards store Bill, so I have no idea what the quality
> of their private label tools are, but I can tell you that Ridgid brand is a
> very good brand of tool. It would surprise me if a chain store sold a
> private label tool that was superior in quality to it.
>

It wasn't a direct apples-to-apples comparision. But I thought that the
MasterForce 6"-belt x 9" disk sander looked more robust
than the Ridgid, and it was on sale for $20 less than the Ridgid unit.
Here's another fact,
the nearest Ridgid "Customer Service Center" is at a rental-station
store more than 50 miles from Indianapolis. What does that
say about how much they care about their customers? The unit in
question has a lot of plastic parts...almost all. The main spindle
on the Ridgid, that runs all of the way the motor is used for every
operation. It is a built-in defect. Also, unsealed bearings.
When you consider that an inital stock of sanding materials could
approach $100, does one really want to "invest" in that unit?
I hope this shows that I did my homework, if nothing else.

Bill

On 12/13/2014 1:08 AM, Bill wrote:
> Maybe I should go to the doctor and find out whether I have an Iron
> deficiency? ; )

Better than a wood deficiency...

(hey, *somebody* had to say it)

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woodchucker wrote:
> Most hand held tools today are plastic Bill. In many ways it's
> superior. It's lighter, it's self insulating (electrically). It can
> drop without cracking the case to some degree. Even the Festools are
> plastic Bill. I think you are being too critical. With your experience
> I think most will work for you.
>


You are probably right, in that most would work for me. But think about
the edge sander being otherwise unsupported except by the main spindle,
rather like a flag. The vibrations will start increasing from there,
starting as soon as you use it. That's what I meant earlier by a
"built-in defect". I think the unit is okay as a consumable. It's
lightness is a convenience. The unit I am comparing to is the Jet
JBOS-5 which is closer to $400 on sale. So adding $100 worth of sanding
abrasives, the Ridgid is $300 and the Jet is $500.

Best,
Bill

woodchucker wrote:
> With your experience I think most will work for you.
>

I fully-believe that's what the manufacturer's were thinking. I studied
the parts diagrams, and picked up the pieces of plastic with my own
hands. There are too many of them.

Bill

John McCoy wrote:
> Bill <[email protected]> wrote in news:m6i5lb01mq7
> @news7.newsguy.com:
>
>> John McCoy wrote:
>>> To back up what John(*) said, if you don't have one of these:
>>>
>>> https://www.lie-nielsen.com/product/block-planes/small-block-planes?
>>> node=4072
>>>
>>> or something similar, you need one.
>> Lie_Nielsen, huh? I have "something similar"! :)
> Not so long ago, if you wanted a plane your choice was either
> rehabilitating an old Stanley, or buying from Lie-Nielsen.

I understand. I probably collected at least 5 or 6 planes (including a
block plane and a low angle block plane), all for less than the $115 of
that one block plane.
I do enjoy admiring the Lie_Nielsen tools though, and others.
Woodworking show will be coming around next month.

Bill

> Now there are more choices in quality planes, but out of
> habit I always recommend L-N. (plus many of the Veritas
> planes are just plain ugly, whereas the L-N all look like
> a tool should look).
>
> John

Bill wrote:
> woodchucker wrote:
>> With your experience I think most will work for you.
>>
>
> I fully-believe that's what the manufacturer's were thinking. I
> studied the parts diagrams, and picked up the pieces of plastic with
> my own hands. There are too many of them.
>
> Bill

In case anyone needs this (I see they are sold as a two-pack):
http://www.sears.com/ridgid-eb44240-oscillating-edge-belt-sander-replacement-throat/p-SPM9496588713?prdNo=9&blockNo=59&blockType=G59

Bill wrote:

>
> It wasn't a direct apples-to-apples comparision. But I thought that
> the MasterForce 6"-belt x 9" disk sander looked more robust
> than the Ridgid, and it was on sale for $20 less than the Ridgid unit.
> Here's another fact,
> the nearest Ridgid "Customer Service Center" is at a rental-station
> store more than 50 miles from Indianapolis. What does that
> say about how much they care about their customers?

Good observation Bill but that begs a whole lot of different questions.
Most retailers have a limit on how long you can return a product to them -
usually not for the duration of the warranty. Usually more like 90 days or
so. With Ridgid products, the warranty is lifetime - even on batteries, if
applicable. So the retail warranty usually means that at some point you are
haveing to returen your product to the manufacturer - and at that, for a
limited time. With Ridgid, it's lifetime, even if that means you might have
to somehow get the product to an authorized repair center. With HD - who is
Ridgid's primary retailer, the normal retail sort of walk in return policy
applies in the same manner as most other retailers. That's just retail
competitiveness. Beyond that though is that very valuable lifetime
warranty. I've used it - I know it works.


> The unit in
> question has a lot of plastic parts...almost all. The main spindle
> on the Ridgid, that runs all of the way the motor is used for every
> operation. It is a built-in defect. Also, unsealed bearings.

What do you mean by unsealed bearings? I'm just not sure what you are
making reference to. As for plastic - Ridgid is not low end consumer junk.
I cannot imagine a wear part like a spindle being plastic, but I may be
wrong. Look again Bill at what Ridgid is and I think you may find your
first look might be mistaken.


> When you consider that an inital stock of sanding materials could
> approach $100, does one really want to "invest" in that unit?
> I hope this shows that I did my homework, if nothing else.
>

Well, I think you certainly did do some of the homework required, but I'm
not sure you've seen things as they really are.

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

Mike Marlow wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>
>> It wasn't a direct apples-to-apples comparision. But I thought that
>> the MasterForce 6"-belt x 9" disk sander looked more robust
>> than the Ridgid, and it was on sale for $20 less than the Ridgid unit.
>> Here's another fact,
>> the nearest Ridgid "Customer Service Center" is at a rental-station
>> store more than 50 miles from Indianapolis. What does that
>> say about how much they care about their customers?
> Good observation Bill but that begs a whole lot of different questions.
> Most retailers have a limit on how long you can return a product to them -
> usually not for the duration of the warranty. Usually more like 90 days or
> so. With Ridgid products, the warranty is lifetime - even on batteries, if
> applicable. So the retail warranty usually means that at some point you are
> haveing to returen your product to the manufacturer - and at that, for a
> limited time. With Ridgid, it's lifetime, even if that means you might have
> to somehow get the product to an authorized repair center. With HD - who is
> Ridgid's primary retailer, the normal retail sort of walk in return policy
> applies in the same manner as most other retailers. That's just retail
> competitiveness. Beyond that though is that very valuable lifetime
> warranty. I've used it - I know it works.
>
>
>> The unit in
>> question has a lot of plastic parts...almost all. The main spindle
>> on the Ridgid, that runs all of the way the motor is used for every
>> operation. It is a built-in defect. Also, unsealed bearings.
> What do you mean by unsealed bearings? I'm just not sure what you are
> making reference to. As for plastic - Ridgid is not low end consumer junk.
> I cannot imagine a wear part like a spindle being plastic, but I may be
> wrong. Look again Bill at what Ridgid is and I think you may find your
> first look might be mistaken.
>
>
>> When you consider that an inital stock of sanding materials could
>> approach $100, does one really want to "invest" in that unit?
>> I hope this shows that I did my homework, if nothing else.
>>
> Well, I think you certainly did do some of the homework required, but I'm
> not sure you've seen things as they really are.

I've got plenty invested in my examination so far. I understand how
things are for me, as well as many other types of users.
I've have read every review on the product that exists. I really don't
want to discourage anyone else from buying the product (sorry, if it
sounded like I was doing that). I don't like every brand of guitar as
much as everyone else either (I won't mention those).
I like parts that don't slip--including tuning pegs! ; ) What have you
got against Jet's JBOS-5? It was $416 in November.
Admittedly, it's more than twice as heavy as the Ridgid. See, now
whether you view that positively or negatively depends on the type of
user one is.
I will say that as an edge sander, the Ridgid is poorly designed. I
believe it started out as an OSS and then they thought of "adding a new
feature".
Go with what you like!

Cheers,
Bill

>

Bill wrote:
> Mike Marlow wrote:
>> Bill wrote:
>>
>>> It wasn't a direct apples-to-apples comparision. But I thought that
>>> the MasterForce 6"-belt x 9" disk sander looked more robust
>>> than the Ridgid, and it was on sale for $20 less than the Ridgid
>>> unit. Here's another fact,
>>> the nearest Ridgid "Customer Service Center" is at a rental-station
>>> store more than 50 miles from Indianapolis. What does that
>>> say about how much they care about their customers?
>> Good observation Bill but that begs a whole lot of different
>> questions. Most retailers have a limit on how long you can return a
>> product to them - usually not for the duration of the warranty. Usually
>> more like 90 days or so. With Ridgid products, the warranty
>> is lifetime - even on batteries, if applicable. So the retail
>> warranty usually means that at some point you are haveing to returen
>> your product to the manufacturer - and at that, for a limited time. With
>> Ridgid, it's lifetime, even if that means you might have to
>> somehow get the product to an authorized repair center. With HD -
>> who is Ridgid's primary retailer, the normal retail sort of walk in
>> return policy applies in the same manner as most other retailers. That's
>> just retail competitiveness. Beyond that though is that very
>> valuable lifetime warranty. I've used it - I know it works.
>>> The unit in
>>> question has a lot of plastic parts...almost all. The main spindle
>>> on the Ridgid, that runs all of the way the motor is used for every
>>> operation. It is a built-in defect. Also, unsealed bearings.
>> What do you mean by unsealed bearings? I'm just not sure what you
>> are making reference to. As for plastic - Ridgid is not low end
>> consumer junk. I cannot imagine a wear part like a spindle being
>> plastic, but I may be wrong. Look again Bill at what Ridgid is and
>> I think you may find your first look might be mistaken.
>>
>>
>>> When you consider that an inital stock of sanding materials could
>>> approach $100, does one really want to "invest" in that unit?
>>> I hope this shows that I did my homework, if nothing else.
>>>
>> Well, I think you certainly did do some of the homework required,
>> but I'm not sure you've seen things as they really are.
>
> I've got plenty invested in my examination so far. I understand how
> things are for me, as well as many other types of users.
> I've have read every review on the product that exists. I really
> don't want to discourage anyone else from buying the product (sorry,
> if it sounded like I was doing that). I don't like every brand of
> guitar as much as everyone else either (I won't mention those).
> I like parts that don't slip--including tuning pegs! ; ) What have
> you got against Jet's JBOS-5? It was $416 in November.
> Admittedly, it's more than twice as heavy as the Ridgid. See, now
> whether you view that positively or negatively depends on the type of
> user one is.
> I will say that as an edge sander, the Ridgid is poorly designed. I
> believe it started out as an OSS and then they thought of "adding a
> new feature".
> Go with what you like!
>
> Cheers,
> Bill

I think you missed everything I was trying to say Bill. I agree that you
should buy what you want because of what's important to you and that's the
last I have to say.

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

Mike Marlow wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>> Mike Marlow wrote:
>>> Bill wrote:
>>>
>>>> It wasn't a direct apples-to-apples comparision. But I thought that
>>>> the MasterForce 6"-belt x 9" disk sander looked more robust
>>>> than the Ridgid, and it was on sale for $20 less than the Ridgid
>>>> unit. Here's another fact,
>>>> the nearest Ridgid "Customer Service Center" is at a rental-station
>>>> store more than 50 miles from Indianapolis. What does that
>>>> say about how much they care about their customers?
>>> Good observation Bill but that begs a whole lot of different
>>> questions. Most retailers have a limit on how long you can return a
>>> product to them - usually not for the duration of the warranty. Usually
>>> more like 90 days or so. With Ridgid products, the warranty
>>> is lifetime - even on batteries, if applicable. So the retail
>>> warranty usually means that at some point you are haveing to returen
>>> your product to the manufacturer - and at that, for a limited time. With
>>> Ridgid, it's lifetime, even if that means you might have to
>>> somehow get the product to an authorized repair center.

Yes, the 100+ mile round trip would make me want to throw the unit in
the garbage (they probably count on that). Oh, that would likely be two
100+ mile round trips, wouldn't it? Jet's customer service center is
local. Lots of people say Ridgid won't repair a "bent/wobbly spindle"
either. It falls under normal wear, abuse, or something along those lines.

Cheers,
Bill

Bill wrote:
> Mike Marlow wrote:
>> Bill wrote:
>>> Mike Marlow wrote:
>>>> Bill wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> It wasn't a direct apples-to-apples comparision. But I thought
>>>>> that the MasterForce 6"-belt x 9" disk sander looked more robust
>>>>> than the Ridgid, and it was on sale for $20 less than the Ridgid
>>>>> unit. Here's another fact,
>>>>> the nearest Ridgid "Customer Service Center" is at a
>>>>> rental-station store more than 50 miles from Indianapolis. What
>>>>> does that say about how much they care about their customers?
>>>> Good observation Bill but that begs a whole lot of different
>>>> questions. Most retailers have a limit on how long you can return a
>>>> product to them - usually not for the duration of the warranty.
>>>> Usually more like 90 days or so. With Ridgid products, the
>>>> warranty is lifetime - even on batteries, if applicable. So the retail
>>>> warranty usually means that at some point you are haveing to
>>>> returen your product to the manufacturer - and at that, for a
>>>> limited time. With Ridgid, it's lifetime, even if that means you
>>>> might have to somehow get the product to an authorized repair center.
>
> Yes, the 100+ mile round trip would make me want to throw the unit in
> the garbage (they probably count on that). Oh, that would likely be
> two 100+ mile round trips, wouldn't it? Jet's customer service
> center is local. Lots of people say Ridgid won't repair a
> "bent/wobbly spindle" either. It falls under normal wear, abuse, or
> something along those lines.

Ok.

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

Mike Marlow wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>> Mike Marlow wrote:
>>> Bill wrote:
>>>> Mike Marlow wrote:
>>>>> Bill wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> It wasn't a direct apples-to-apples comparision. But I thought
>>>>>> that the MasterForce 6"-belt x 9" disk sander looked more robust
>>>>>> than the Ridgid, and it was on sale for $20 less than the Ridgid
>>>>>> unit. Here's another fact,
>>>>>> the nearest Ridgid "Customer Service Center" is at a
>>>>>> rental-station store more than 50 miles from Indianapolis. What
>>>>>> does that say about how much they care about their customers?
>>>>> Good observation Bill but that begs a whole lot of different
>>>>> questions. Most retailers have a limit on how long you can return
>>>>> a product to them - usually not for the duration of the warranty.
>>>>> Usually more like 90 days or so. With Ridgid products, the
>>>>> warranty is lifetime - even on batteries, if applicable. So the
>>>>> retail warranty usually means that at some point you are haveing
>>>>> to returen your product to the manufacturer - and at that, for a
>>>>> limited time. With Ridgid, it's lifetime, even if that means you
>>>>> might have to somehow get the product to an authorized repair
>>>>> center.
>>
>> Yes, the 100+ mile round trip would make me want to throw the unit in
>> the garbage (they probably count on that). Oh, that would likely be
>> two 100+ mile round trips, wouldn't it? Jet's customer service
>> center is local. Lots of people say Ridgid won't repair a
>> "bent/wobbly spindle" either. It falls under normal wear, abuse, or
>> something along those lines.
>
> Ok.

BTW - what does this have to do with Menards vs Ridgid? Is Jet a lifetime
warranty?

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

Mike Marlow wrote:
> .
> Is Jet a lifetime
> warranty?

Jet has a 5 year warranty, with a promise of service available after the
sale.
So far, I have confidence in them, though who knows for sure what the
future holds.

The more I learn about stuff, the better prepared I will be when it
turns up at auction.
This Jet OSS was there about 2 months ago (but I was previewing, the
auction was the next day).
A missed opportunity.

[email protected] wrote:
> On Sat, 13 Dec 2014 22:00:20 +0000 (UTC), John McCoy
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> woodchucker <[email protected]> wrote in news:6oGdnbZAT_hpDRHJnZ2dnUU7-
>> [email protected]:
>>
>>> The rigid is not a cheap tool. It's got an induction motor not universal
>>> and is surprisingly well made.
>> Ridgid (two "d"s *) power tools are a bit unpredictable. Most of
>> them are made by Ryobi, I beleive, with corresponding quality.
> Not really (made by Ryobi). Both are made by the parent company, TTI,
> (the other name in the TTI group is "Milwaukee"). Ryobi is meant for
> the low-end consumer market, while Ridgid is intended for the higher
> end consumer and low end contractor. Milwaukee, of course, is
> intended for the pro-sumer or industrial markets.
>
>> A few of them are made by other vendors (some might even be
>> made by Emerson Electric, who actually own the Ridgid name and
>> make the Ridgid plumbers tools), which sometimes means a higher
>> spec tool.
> AIUI, Ridge (Emerson) owns the (Ridge and Ridgid) trademarks but
> they're licensed to TTI, who actually manufactures most of the tools.
>
> The tool biz is really convoluted.


Just adding to what you wrote:

In 2014, Tenex Capital Management New York City, NY acquired the JET,
POWERMATIC AND WILTON brands from Walter Meier and changed the company
name to JPW Industries where they continue to grow and outperform their
competition with innovative, quality products and services.

As if you didn't know, all of this consolidation is no good for us!

Leon wrote:
> Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Mike Marlow wrote:
>>> .
>>> Is Jet a lifetime
>>> warranty?
>> Jet has a 5 year warranty, with a promise of service available after the sale.
>> So far, I have confidence in them, though who knows for sure what the future holds.
>>
>> The more I learn about stuff, the better prepared I will be when it turns up at auction.
>> This Jet OSS was there about 2 months ago (but I was previewing, the
>> auction was the next day).
>> A missed opportunity.
> Buy the thousand dollar one Bill. You will want it to out last this thread.
> :-)

Sorry if it got annoying.

Bill wrote:
> Leon wrote:
>> Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> Mike Marlow wrote:
>>>> .
>>>> Is Jet a lifetime
>>>> warranty?
>>> Jet has a 5 year warranty, with a promise of service available after
>>> the sale.
>>> So far, I have confidence in them, though who knows for sure what
>>> the future holds.
>>>
>>> The more I learn about stuff, the better prepared I will be when it
>>> turns up at auction.
>>> This Jet OSS was there about 2 months ago (but I was previewing, the
>>> auction was the next day).
>>> A missed opportunity.
>> Buy the thousand dollar one Bill. You will want it to out last this
>> thread.
>> :-)
>
> Sorry if it got annoying.
>
My dad used a sanding disk attached to the end of a corded drill. Having
tried it myself as
a youngster, I remember it making a cloud of dust! <cough, couch> : )

[email protected] wrote:
> On Mon, 15 Dec 2014 03:11:47 -0500, Bill <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>> [email protected] wrote:
>>> On Sat, 13 Dec 2014 22:00:20 +0000 (UTC), John McCoy
>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>> woodchucker <[email protected]> wrote in news:6oGdnbZAT_hpDRHJnZ2dnUU7-
>>>> [email protected]:
>>>>
>>>>> The rigid is not a cheap tool. It's got an induction motor not universal
>>>>> and is surprisingly well made.
>>>> Ridgid (two "d"s *) power tools are a bit unpredictable. Most of
>>>> them are made by Ryobi, I beleive, with corresponding quality.
>>> Not really (made by Ryobi). Both are made by the parent company, TTI,
>>> (the other name in the TTI group is "Milwaukee"). Ryobi is meant for
>>> the low-end consumer market, while Ridgid is intended for the higher
>>> end consumer and low end contractor. Milwaukee, of course, is
>>> intended for the pro-sumer or industrial markets.
>>>
>>>> A few of them are made by other vendors (some might even be
>>>> made by Emerson Electric, who actually own the Ridgid name and
>>>> make the Ridgid plumbers tools), which sometimes means a higher
>>>> spec tool.
>>> AIUI, Ridge (Emerson) owns the (Ridge and Ridgid) trademarks but
>>> they're licensed to TTI, who actually manufactures most of the tools.
>>>
>>> The tool biz is really convoluted.
>>
>> Just adding to what you wrote:
>>
>> In 2014, Tenex Capital Management New York City, NY acquired the JET,
>> POWERMATIC AND WILTON brands from Walter Meier and changed the company
>> name to JPW Industries where they continue to grow and outperform their
>> competition with innovative, quality products and services.
>>
>> As if you didn't know, all of this consolidation is no good for us!
> I'm not convinced. It's better that there is a consolidation than all
> of these companies disappearing. The market isn't huge.

Several of Delta's products seems to have virtually (and absolutely)
disappeared since they got consolidated.
I've noticed the absence of their 8" jointer and a couple of their
sanders, and there is most-likely more.

I have Not observed the presence of a Festool OSS! : )
(especially one that wasn't plastic!)

Carvers, if you used an OSS to "cut close" would you expect the sand
paper to leave grit in the wood and dull your carving tools (just curious)?

Bill

Bill wrote:
> [email protected] wrote:
>> On Mon, 15 Dec 2014 03:11:47 -0500, Bill <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> [email protected] wrote:
>>>> On Sat, 13 Dec 2014 22:00:20 +0000 (UTC), John McCoy
>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> woodchucker <[email protected]> wrote in
>>>>> news:6oGdnbZAT_hpDRHJnZ2dnUU7-
>>>>> [email protected]:
>>>>>
>>>>>> The rigid is not a cheap tool. It's got an induction motor not
>>>>>> universal
>>>>>> and is surprisingly well made.
>>>>> Ridgid (two "d"s *) power tools are a bit unpredictable. Most of
>>>>> them are made by Ryobi, I beleive, with corresponding quality.
>>>> Not really (made by Ryobi). Both are made by the parent company, TTI,
>>>> (the other name in the TTI group is "Milwaukee"). Ryobi is meant for
>>>> the low-end consumer market, while Ridgid is intended for the higher
>>>> end consumer and low end contractor. Milwaukee, of course, is
>>>> intended for the pro-sumer or industrial markets.
>>>>
>>>>> A few of them are made by other vendors (some might even be
>>>>> made by Emerson Electric, who actually own the Ridgid name and
>>>>> make the Ridgid plumbers tools), which sometimes means a higher
>>>>> spec tool.
>>>> AIUI, Ridge (Emerson) owns the (Ridge and Ridgid) trademarks but
>>>> they're licensed to TTI, who actually manufactures most of the tools.
>>>>
>>>> The tool biz is really convoluted.
>>>
>>> Just adding to what you wrote:
>>>
>>> In 2014, Tenex Capital Management New York City, NY acquired the JET,
>>> POWERMATIC AND WILTON brands from Walter Meier and changed the company
>>> name to JPW Industries where they continue to grow and outperform their
>>> competition with innovative, quality products and services.
>>>
>>> As if you didn't know, all of this consolidation is no good for us!
>> I'm not convinced. It's better that there is a consolidation than all
>> of these companies disappearing. The market isn't huge.
>
> Several of Delta's products seems to have virtually (and absolutely)
> disappeared since they got consolidated.
> I've noticed the absence of their 8" jointer and a couple of their
> sanders, and there is most-likely more.
>
> I have Not observed the presence of a Festool OSS! : )
> (especially one that wasn't plastic!)
>
> Carvers, if you used an OSS to "cut close" would you expect the sand
> paper to leave grit in the wood and dull your carving tools (just
> curious)?
>
> Bill
>
From a brief search, the answer to that last question seems to be Yes.
Though several use a toothbrush and air compressor or shopvac to remove
the embedded abrasives.

"Stupid" disk sander question (this thread seems like a good place for it).

Are there wood sanding applications where a smaller, less powerful disk
sander works better than a larger more powerful one?

For instance, 9" 3/4-HP, versus 12" 1 HP.

I know sandpaper would be cheaper for the smaller one, but that's not
what I'm talking about. Clearly the larger disk gives you more working
room, but is there a downside to it (besides the higher cost per sheet
of abrasives)?

I'm sure in this case that the 12" unit is built to higher standards:
has a nicer table and is "industrial strength". But that's sort of a
different question. They probably make industrial strength 3/4hp 9" disk
sanders too; I just haven't seen them where I shop.

Bill

"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]
> "Stupid" disk sander question (this thread seems like a good place for
> it).
> Are there wood sanding applications where a smaller, less powerful disk
> sander works better than a larger more powerful one?
>
> For instance, 9" 3/4-HP, versus 12" 1 HP.
>
> I know sandpaper would be cheaper for the smaller one, but that's not
> what I'm talking about. Clearly the larger disk gives you more working
> room, but is there a downside to it (besides the higher cost per sheet
> of abrasives)?

Well, the outside three inches will be moving farther in a given time but
I don't know if that is a benefit or vice versa.

Most disk sanders seem to be about 3500 rpm; at that speed, it is easy to
burn wood, need to have a light touch which is easy enough to do. Still,
I'd rather have one that is doing 1750 rpm; trouble is, they charge more
for them, no idea why.

Somewhere in this thread - I think it was this thread, I've sorta lost
track :) - someone mentioned the nuisance factor of changing grit on a
disk sander. True. The solution is, put on an 80 grit disk and never
change it until it is worn out then stick on a new 80 grit, on top of the
old one or on the plate, your choice.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

dadiOH wrote:
> "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]
>> "Stupid" disk sander question (this thread seems like a good place for
>> it).
>> Are there wood sanding applications where a smaller, less powerful disk
>> sander works better than a larger more powerful one?
>>
>> For instance, 9" 3/4-HP, versus 12" 1 HP.
>>
>> I know sandpaper would be cheaper for the smaller one, but that's not
>> what I'm talking about. Clearly the larger disk gives you more working
>> room, but is there a downside to it (besides the higher cost per sheet
>> of abrasives)?
>
> Well, the outside three inches will be moving farther in a given time
> but I don't know if that is a benefit or vice versa.
>
> Most disk sanders seem to be about 3500 rpm; at that speed, it is easy
> to burn wood, need to have a light touch which is easy enough to do.
> Still, I'd rather have one that is doing 1750 rpm; trouble is, they
> charge more for them, no idea why.

All of the 12" ones I saw said 1725-1750 RPM, except Jet didn't
list the RPM (I would expect the same).
The 9" one I was looking at (part of a belt/disk combo unit) said 3100
RPM. Interesting.
The circumference of a disk is directly proportion to the diameter.
12*1750 =21000 (*3.14) feet per minute, at the edge.
9*3100 = 27900 (*3.14) feet per minute at the edge, so these numbers are
NOT different by factor of 2, like it appears at first glance.
More like 25% difference. And the 1 HP number probably has more integrity.

Thanks for making me think!
Bill



>
> Somewhere in this thread - I think it was this thread, I've sorta lost
> track :) - someone mentioned the nuisance factor of changing grit on a
> disk sander. True. The solution is, put on an 80 grit disk and never
> change it until it is worn out then stick on a new 80 grit, on top of
> the old one or on the plate, your choice.
>

"John McCoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]
> "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
>
> > Most disk sanders seem to be about 3500 rpm; at that speed, it is easy
> > to burn wood, need to have a light touch which is easy enough to do.
> > Still, I'd rather have one that is doing 1750 rpm; trouble is, they
> > charge more for them, no idea why.
>
> More expensive to make a 1750 rpm motor. A motor with two
> poles will turn at 3600 rpm on 60Hz AC line (unloaded, the
> loaded speed will be around 3450 rpm). A motor with four
> poles will run 1800 rpm (unloaded, around 1750 loaded).
> None too surprisingly, it takes more material and effort
> to make a 4-pole motor (altho not a whole lot more). So
> 2-pole motors are the most widely available and cheapest.
>
> John

Thanks, John, always nice to know stuff.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On Mon, 15 Dec 2014 13:28:25 +0000 (UTC), John McCoy
<[email protected]> wrote:

>[email protected] wrote in news:[email protected]:
>
>> On Sat, 13 Dec 2014 22:00:20 +0000 (UTC), John McCoy
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>>A few of them are made by other vendors (some might even be
>>>made by Emerson Electric, who actually own the Ridgid name and
>>>make the Ridgid plumbers tools), which sometimes means a higher
>>>spec tool.
>>
>> AIUI, Ridge (Emerson) owns the (Ridge and Ridgid) trademarks but
>> they're licensed to TTI, who actually manufactures most of the tools.
>
>> The tool biz is really convoluted.
>
>I'm not sure if the Ridgid name is licensed to TTI or to Home
>Depot (who in turn contract it to TTI).

You can judge...

http://forum.drc.su/who-owns-who-ridgid-mulwaukee-ryobi-aeg-vt4186.html

>But my main point there was that Emerson still makes the
>plumbers tools (which was Ridgid's original claim to fame).

Could be. As I said the market is really convoluted.

On Sat, 13 Dec 2014 22:00:20 +0000 (UTC), John McCoy
<[email protected]> wrote:

>woodchucker <[email protected]> wrote in news:6oGdnbZAT_hpDRHJnZ2dnUU7-
>[email protected]:
>
>> The rigid is not a cheap tool. It's got an induction motor not universal
>> and is surprisingly well made.
>
>Ridgid (two "d"s *) power tools are a bit unpredictable. Most of
>them are made by Ryobi, I beleive, with corresponding quality.

Not really (made by Ryobi). Both are made by the parent company, TTI,
(the other name in the TTI group is "Milwaukee"). Ryobi is meant for
the low-end consumer market, while Ridgid is intended for the higher
end consumer and low end contractor. Milwaukee, of course, is
intended for the pro-sumer or industrial markets.

>A few of them are made by other vendors (some might even be
>made by Emerson Electric, who actually own the Ridgid name and
>make the Ridgid plumbers tools), which sometimes means a higher
>spec tool.

AIUI, Ridge (Emerson) owns the (Ridge and Ridgid) trademarks but
they're licensed to TTI, who actually manufactures most of the tools.

The tool biz is really convoluted.

On Mon, 15 Dec 2014 21:15:18 -0500, Bill <[email protected]>
wrote:

>[email protected] wrote:
>> On Mon, 15 Dec 2014 03:11:47 -0500, Bill <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> [email protected] wrote:
>>>> On Sat, 13 Dec 2014 22:00:20 +0000 (UTC), John McCoy
>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> woodchucker <[email protected]> wrote in news:6oGdnbZAT_hpDRHJnZ2dnUU7-
>>>>> [email protected]:
>>>>>
>>>>>> The rigid is not a cheap tool. It's got an induction motor not universal
>>>>>> and is surprisingly well made.
>>>>> Ridgid (two "d"s *) power tools are a bit unpredictable. Most of
>>>>> them are made by Ryobi, I beleive, with corresponding quality.
>>>> Not really (made by Ryobi). Both are made by the parent company, TTI,
>>>> (the other name in the TTI group is "Milwaukee"). Ryobi is meant for
>>>> the low-end consumer market, while Ridgid is intended for the higher
>>>> end consumer and low end contractor. Milwaukee, of course, is
>>>> intended for the pro-sumer or industrial markets.
>>>>
>>>>> A few of them are made by other vendors (some might even be
>>>>> made by Emerson Electric, who actually own the Ridgid name and
>>>>> make the Ridgid plumbers tools), which sometimes means a higher
>>>>> spec tool.
>>>> AIUI, Ridge (Emerson) owns the (Ridge and Ridgid) trademarks but
>>>> they're licensed to TTI, who actually manufactures most of the tools.
>>>>
>>>> The tool biz is really convoluted.
>>>
>>> Just adding to what you wrote:
>>>
>>> In 2014, Tenex Capital Management New York City, NY acquired the JET,
>>> POWERMATIC AND WILTON brands from Walter Meier and changed the company
>>> name to JPW Industries where they continue to grow and outperform their
>>> competition with innovative, quality products and services.
>>>
>>> As if you didn't know, all of this consolidation is no good for us!
>> I'm not convinced. It's better that there is a consolidation than all
>> of these companies disappearing. The market isn't huge.
>
>Several of Delta's products seems to have virtually (and absolutely)
>disappeared since they got consolidated.
>I've noticed the absence of their 8" jointer and a couple of their
>sanders, and there is most-likely more.

More evidence that the market can't support all of the existing
brands.

>I have Not observed the presence of a Festool OSS! : )
>(especially one that wasn't plastic!)
>Carvers, if you used an OSS to "cut close" would you expect the sand
>paper to leave grit in the wood and dull your carving tools (just curious)?
>
>Bill