So just how thin are they going to go with the veneer? I swear the
manufacturers have discovered ScarySharp and are striving for the "Thinnest
Veneer Ever" award.
As such, how are you guys dealing with this? I'm taking great pains to get the
hardwood edging on shelves dead nuts flush with the surface, using tape on the
cut line, using a zero clearance insert and basically handling my plywood as
though it's a finely finished antique. Are scoring blades the way to go? Can
you source plywood by the thickness of the veneer? Does anyone actually knife a
line prior to cutting? Help!
JP
"Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> As such, how are you guys dealing with this? I'm taking great pains to
get the
> hardwood edging on shelves dead nuts flush with the surface, using tape on
the
> cut line, using a zero clearance insert and basically handling my plywood
as
> though it's a finely finished antique. Are scoring blades the way to go?
Can
> you source plywood by the thickness of the veneer? Does anyone actually
knife a
> line prior to cutting? Help!
>
> JP
Sounds like you have two problems. One is alignment, the other is quality
of the cut edge.
I can gut a perfect plywood edge using my Freud 80 tooth cross cut blade. No
scoring, no knife line. Cut good side up.
Now is the alignment of the edge. I plane mine to be 3/4" thick. that is
just a tad thicker than the actual size of the plywood. I use biscuits for
alignment. If you want to leave the edging a little proud to sand in flush,
cut the slot in the edging as usual. Now when you cut the slot in the
plywood, put a playing card under the fence. Or a couple of thicknesses of
paper. It will make the slot just that much higher and if you cut the
edging perfect, it will sit proud.. Now just sand it even.
Ed
[email protected]
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome