I'm spoiled. I have the grip-tite magnetic featherboards with a the
grip-tite steel fence face. I could do what you need confidently with
no fear of kick back using this system. I had too many near misses
trying to do narrow rips with a push stick. The suggestions already
posted for pushstick design are good. But I don't believe any pushstick
can firmly hold and guide the wood like the grip-tite system. I also
found that my cuts were more consistently accurate because the system
pulls the wood tight against the fence as it feeds.
By the way, I also have two GRRRippers and they work well with small
pieces but the grip-tites are superior for ripping narrow pieces 24
inches long.
Bob
On 31 Aug 2004 20:00:18 -0700, "Bob" <[email protected]> wrote:
>By the way, I also have two GRRRippers and they work well with small
>pieces but the grip-tites are superior for ripping narrow pieces 24
>inches long.
>
>Bob
The Grip Tites are really nice, but think push BLOCK, not STICK.
I do narrow ripping with an MDF or plywood block that looks just like
a 12" long jointer push block. This block has a handle attached to
the top, a 1/4" MDF or wood lip on the back edge, and strips of a $1
Staples mouse pad glued to the bottom, rubber towards the work.
The blade is raised 1/8" higher than the thickness of the wood. The
mouse pad and rear hook are considered sacrificial. The block holds
the work down and against the fence.
Using this method, I've ripped perfect 1/8" strips from a 1/4" thick
board.
Did I mention the tool cost less than $2?
Barry
bob..... I checked out the grip tite feather board. Interesting item but
don't see how to push a narrow board thru without the featherboard getting
in the way???
Am I missing something here?
"Bob" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm spoiled. I have the grip-tite magnetic featherboards with a the
> grip-tite steel fence face. I could do what you need confidently with
> no fear of kick back using this system. I had too many near misses
> trying to do narrow rips with a push stick. The suggestions already
> posted for pushstick design are good. But I don't believe any pushstick
> can firmly hold and guide the wood like the grip-tite system. I also
> found that my cuts were more consistently accurate because the system
> pulls the wood tight against the fence as it feeds.
>
> By the way, I also have two GRRRippers and they work well with small
> pieces but the grip-tites are superior for ripping narrow pieces 24
> inches long.
>
> Bob
>
bob..... I just checked my TS and it all aluminum so no magnets are sticking
to it..... I know I can get a steel guard but that doesn't help the table
top.... guess not the way to go for me.
"Bob" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm spoiled. I have the grip-tite magnetic featherboards with a the
> grip-tite steel fence face. I could do what you need confidently with
> no fear of kick back using this system. I had too many near misses
> trying to do narrow rips with a push stick. The suggestions already
> posted for pushstick design are good. But I don't believe any pushstick
> can firmly hold and guide the wood like the grip-tite system. I also
> found that my cuts were more consistently accurate because the system
> pulls the wood tight against the fence as it feeds.
>
> By the way, I also have two GRRRippers and they work well with small
> pieces but the grip-tites are superior for ripping narrow pieces 24
> inches long.
>
> Bob
>