I am interested in getting a frame or bow saw. Is there any difference
between the traditional type that is tensioned by string and a block of
wood and the kind which uses a cable with a wing nut? I am assuming
that what matters the most is the blade. I have been looking at the saws
at traditional woodworker site. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Rudy
In article <[email protected]>, Larry Jaques
<novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote:
> Having half-finished a single bow saur myself, I feel fully
> qualified to answer this question:
You're up to *half* finished now, Larry?
<d&r>
--
Was that last sig line lame or what?
In article <[email protected]>, Larry Jaques
<novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote:
> The gitfiddle stand is done.
> Granted, it's a quick and dirty job, but it's a stand.
Sure, but it's no bowsaw, English.
;-)
djb
--
"We have been looking for weapons of mass destruction in Iraq for less time
than it took Hillary Clinton to find the billing record from the Rose Law firm.
-And they were in the same building with her." - <http://wizbangblog.com/>
GJP <GJP> wrote:
> Extending and stretching the topic a bit...Where do you purchase
Woodcraft, Garret Wade, Highland Hardware off the top of my head.
> I have a old 10" Marple bow saw that is down to it's last blade and I can't
> find a supplier, hence the question.(G)
I think Woodjoy Tools had a 12 inch bowsaw. IIRC it costs more than a
larger one... ???
Rudy Fichtenbaum wrote:
>
> I am interested in getting a frame or bow saw. Is there any difference
> between the traditional type that is tensioned by string and a block of
> wood and the kind which uses a cable with a wing nut? I am assuming
> that what matters the most is the blade. I have been looking at the saws
> at traditional woodworker site. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
>
> Rudy
Functionaly - no. Both tension the blade. The wing nut'd let you
make small adjustments to the tension while the "spanish windlass"
only allows full revolution changes. If you're a neander use the
"spanish windlass" with a nice hardwood "handle".
The fun thing about bow saws is the method of connecting things
that allows for a little rotation in one plane but not in the other
two. A simple loose in one plane mortise and tenon works fine
but someone did one with the mortise and tenon joint semi-
circular so no gaps are visible at the tenon's shoulder when
in use.
You can also get creative with the shape of the arms and even
turn your own handles and do all kinds of beading.
Here's the one I did - blade from Highland Hardware - it
sucks, the blade that is.
http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/BowSaw.html
Having a bandsaw will come in handy.
Have fun making one of these little gems
charlie b
(bafles me how Tage Fried can cut dovetails with the
big bow saw he uses)
On Thu, 15 Apr 2004 09:48:39 -0400, Rudy Fichtenbaum
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Is there any difference
>between the traditional type that is tensioned by string and a block of
>wood and the kind which uses a cable with a wing nut?
Yes.
Both generate the same force. But one does it through a large strain
(movement) applied to a material with a low elastic modulus, the other
does it with a short movement to a high modulus. Why does this matter?
Well if the frame has any movement in it, then a cable-tensioned frame
will tend to go slack as it wobbles, whilst a supposedly "sloppy"
string tensioned frame will absorb the movement and lose relatively
less tension.
I've only seen wingnut tensioning on frame saws with fairly rigid
metal frames, like picture framing saws, or else on huge resaw frame
saws. But if you make your own crude bow saw and it won't stay taut,
then take off that ultra high-tech Kevlar bowstring you used and
replace it with a length of stretchy old twine (actually nylon
bricklayer's line is good). Then I bet it'll work better.
--
Smert' spamionam
On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 23:02:47 -0600, Dave Balderstone
<dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_S.balderstone.ca> brought forth from the murky
depths:
>In article <[email protected]>, Larry Jaques
><novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote:
>
>> The gitfiddle stand is done.
>> Granted, it's a quick and dirty job, but it's a stand.
>
>Sure, but it's no bowsaw, English. ;-)
I thought you were the one complaining that I never finished
anything. Hmmm?
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-==-=--=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Life is full of little surprises. * Comprehensive Website Development
--Pandora * http://www.diversify.com
I got the ECE frame saw and Japanese style blades (rip and crosscut) at:
http://www.fine-tools.com/gestell.htm
I don't have much to compare it against, but this saw is awsome.
-JBB
"Rudy Fichtenbaum" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am interested in getting a frame or bow saw. Is there any difference
> between the traditional type that is tensioned by string and a block of
> wood and the kind which uses a cable with a wing nut? I am assuming
> that what matters the most is the blade. I have been looking at the saws
> at traditional woodworker site. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
>
> Rudy
>
Rudy Fichtenbaum wrote:
> I am interested in getting a frame or bow saw. Is there any difference
> between the traditional type that is tensioned by string and a block of
> wood and the kind which uses a cable with a wing nut? I am assuming
> that what matters the most is the blade. I have been looking at the saws
> at traditional woodworker site. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
>
> Rudy
>
Hey, talk to Larry Jaques. He'll make you a bow saw for free! :-)
j4
Andy Dingley <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 19:15:39 -0700, Larry Jaques
><novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote:
>
>>Having half-finished a single bow saur myself,
>
> You're just not trying !
>
> I did a bow-saw making class last year, where a dozen or so
> kids-teens-adolescents were learning some green woodworking / simple
> framing at a camp. Supplying only sawblades, nails (as blade pins)
> and string (and coppiced poles we'd felled earlier), we got everyone
> to make their own saw in an afternoon. Good fun too.
>
> Frames were in either beech or ash, and they were of different sizes
> (because idiot boy here hadn't bought enough of the right blades).
> Some of the smaller beech ones even ended up with some pretty nice
> carving on them, which is more than I could have done.
>
Extending and stretching the topic a bit...Where do you purchase or do you
make your own bow saw blades...if you make them a general description of
how "you" make them would be much appreciated.
I have a old 10" Marple bow saw that is down to it's last blade and I can't
find a supplier, hence the question.(G)
TIA
GJP
"Norman D. Crow" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
>
>
><GJP> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>> Extending and stretching the topic a bit...Where do you purchase or
>> do you make your own bow saw blades...if you make them a general
>> description of how "you" make them would be much appreciated.
>> I have a old 10" Marple bow saw that is down to it's last blade and I
> can't
>> find a supplier, hence the question.(G)
>
> Bandsaw blade of appropriate width and # of teeth - - cut to length,
> punch/drill hioles, away you go.
>
..so I guess that's why Charlie B in his message about making his bowsaw
said "having a bandsaw can help" EH!(G)
Gee, that's why I have a bowsaw since I don't have a bandsaw.(G)
Thanks for the reply, much appreciated.
GJP
[email protected] (Fred the Red Shirt) wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> GJP <GJP> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
>> Andy Dingley <[email protected]> wrote in
>> news:[email protected]:
>>
>> >
>> > Frames were in either beech or ash, and they were of different
>> > sizes (because idiot boy here hadn't bought enough of the right
>> > blades). Some of the smaller beech ones even ended up with some
>> > pretty nice carving on them, which is more than I could have done.
>
> Do not use curly maple for the uprights on a frame saw.
>
>> >
>>
>> Extending and stretching the topic a bit...Where do you purchase or
>> do you make your own bow saw blades...if you make them a general
>> description of how "you" make them would be much appreciated.
>> I have a old 10" Marple bow saw that is down to it's last blade and I
>> can't find a supplier, hence the question.(G)
>> TIA
>>
>
>
> I think Garret Wade may have those.
>
> My frame saw (the one that didn't break) uses a 48" bucksaw blade
> I bought at the Borg and is used for bucking logs. You can use a
> piece of a bandsaw blade for the blade for smaller saws.
>
> I haven't done this myself, but here's how I understand it is
> done. First put nail in a drill press and spot anneal two spots
> on the blade where you want to drill the holes. That is you
> press the nail down on the blade while spinning at high speed
> so that the heat from friction anneals a spot on the blade
> without annealing the rest of the blade. Be sure to clamp the
> blade well for obvious reasons. Then you can drill or punch the
> holes in the blade. Finally you cut the blade to length with
> a triangular file.
>
Thank you, guess I'll have to start searching the NG for messages about
&*%#** bandsaw blades that keep breaking and see if there are any left over
bits hanging around.(G)
Much appreciated.
GJP
Andy Dingley <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On Sat, 17 Apr 2004 14:58:54 -0000, GJP <GJP> wrote:
>
>>Extending and stretching the topic a bit...Where do you purchase or do
>>you make your own bow saw blades.
>
> Bandsaw blade. You ask at somewhere that makes them up to order and
> they'll just chop off any length you want. They punched end holes in
> ours too.
>
> Don't use _old_ bandsaw blade (as if often recommended). Maybe a
> damaged new blade is OK, but if it's too worn for a motor, you don't
> want to be pushing it by hand.
>
> If you want a big coping saw, you might find that a replacement bow
> saw blade is narrower than any bandsaw stock you can get.
Thank for the reply, hadn't thought about approaching the problem from that
angle.
Much appreciated.
GJP
Larry Jaques <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On Sat, 17 Apr 2004 14:58:54 -0000, GJP <GJP> brought forth from the
> murky depths:
>
>>Extending and stretching the topic a bit...Where do you purchase or do
>>you make your own bow saw blades...if you make them a general
>>description of how "you" make them would be much appreciated.
>>I have a old 10" Marple bow saw that is down to it's last blade and I
>>can't find a supplier, hence the question.(G)
>
> My good friend Rob Weaver sent some sections of good old
> bandsaw blade to me for that purpose. Narrow/fine and
> thick/coarse, each for its own use (crosscut/rip).
>
>
> -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-==-=--=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
> Life is full of little surprises. * Comprehensive Website Development
> --Pandora * http://www.diversify.com
Thanks, more useful info, another avenue I could persue.
Much appreciated.
GJP
[email protected] (p_j) wrote in
news:1gcg01z.10bjdtm1rmwuk9N%[email protected]:
> GJP <GJP> wrote:
>
>
>> Extending and stretching the topic a bit...Where do you purchase
>
> Woodcraft, Garret Wade, Highland Hardware off the top of my head.
>
>> I have a old 10" Marple bow saw that is down to it's last blade and I
>> can't find a supplier, hence the question.(G)
>
> I think Woodjoy Tools had a 12 inch bowsaw. IIRC it costs more than a
> larger one... ???
>
>
Checked with most of them, none seem to carry the size I need anymore,
Highland used to but now only carry the larger frame saw.
Checked the web site of Woodjoy, they talk about a 400mm, 500 mm and 600 mm
saws, so it all depends on how they measure the saw...maybe the 400 mm will
do as it's 15 3/4", so I'll contact them, if not guess it's make my own
from bandsaw blades as has been sugggested in a few replies.
Thanks for the reply, much appreciated.
GJP
"jo4hn" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Rudy Fichtenbaum wrote:
> > I am interested in getting a frame or bow saw. Is there any difference
> > between the traditional type that is tensioned by string and a block of
> > wood and the kind which uses a cable with a wing nut? I am assuming
> > that what matters the most is the blade. I have been looking at the saws
> > at traditional woodworker site. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
> >
> > Rudy
> >
> Hey, talk to Larry Jaques. He'll make you a bow saw for free! :-)
> j4
Ouch! Glad someone else grabbed the *needle* this time.
--
Nahmie
"Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving
safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside,
thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming, 'WOW! What A
Ride!'"
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.657 / Virus Database: 422 - Release Date: 4/13/2004
<GJP> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> Extending and stretching the topic a bit...Where do you purchase or do you
> make your own bow saw blades...if you make them a general description of
> how "you" make them would be much appreciated.
> I have a old 10" Marple bow saw that is down to it's last blade and I
can't
> find a supplier, hence the question.(G)
Bandsaw blade of appropriate width and # of teeth - - cut to length,
punch/drill hioles, away you go.
--
Nahmie
"Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving
safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside,
thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming, 'WOW! What A
Ride!'"
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.657 / Virus Database: 422 - Release Date: 4/13/2004
On Sat, 17 Apr 2004 14:58:54 -0000, GJP <GJP> brought forth from the
murky depths:
>Extending and stretching the topic a bit...Where do you purchase or do you
>make your own bow saw blades...if you make them a general description of
>how "you" make them would be much appreciated.
>I have a old 10" Marple bow saw that is down to it's last blade and I can't
>find a supplier, hence the question.(G)
My good friend Rob Weaver sent some sections of good old
bandsaw blade to me for that purpose. Narrow/fine and
thick/coarse, each for its own use (crosscut/rip).
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-==-=--=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Life is full of little surprises. * Comprehensive Website Development
--Pandora * http://www.diversify.com
GJP <GJP> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Andy Dingley <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
> >
> > Frames were in either beech or ash, and they were of different sizes
> > (because idiot boy here hadn't bought enough of the right blades).
> > Some of the smaller beech ones even ended up with some pretty nice
> > carving on them, which is more than I could have done.
Do not use curly maple for the uprights on a frame saw.
> >
>
> Extending and stretching the topic a bit...Where do you purchase or do you
> make your own bow saw blades...if you make them a general description of
> how "you" make them would be much appreciated.
> I have a old 10" Marple bow saw that is down to it's last blade and I can't
> find a supplier, hence the question.(G)
> TIA
>
I think Garret Wade may have those.
My frame saw (the one that didn't break) uses a 48" bucksaw blade
I bought at the Borg and is used for bucking logs. You can use a
piece of a bandsaw blade for the blade for smaller saws.
I haven't done this myself, but here's how I understand it is
done. First put nail in a drill press and spot anneal two spots
on the blade where you want to drill the holes. That is you
press the nail down on the blade while spinning at high speed
so that the heat from friction anneals a spot on the blade
without annealing the rest of the blade. Be sure to clamp the
blade well for obvious reasons. Then you can drill or punch the
holes in the blade. Finally you cut the blade to length with
a triangular file.
--
FF
On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 21:13:06 -0600, Dave Balderstone
<dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_S.balderstone.ca> brought forth from the murky
depths:
>In article <[email protected]>, Larry Jaques
><novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote:
>
>> Having half-finished a single bow saur myself, I feel fully
>> qualified to answer this question:
>
>You're up to *half* finished now, Larry?
>
><d&r>
Ackshully more than that, Baldy. BTW, see the post to
Nahmy I posted earlier. The gitfiddle stand is done.
Granted, it's a quick and dirty job, but it's a stand.
Finish is Waterlox and Johnson's paste wax.
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-==-=--=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Life is full of little surprises. * Comprehensive Website Development
--Pandora * http://www.diversify.com
On Sat, 17 Apr 2004 14:58:54 -0000, GJP <GJP> wrote:
>Extending and stretching the topic a bit...Where do you purchase or do you
>make your own bow saw blades.
Bandsaw blade. You ask at somewhere that makes them up to order and
they'll just chop off any length you want. They punched end holes in
ours too.
Don't use _old_ bandsaw blade (as if often recommended). Maybe a
damaged new blade is OK, but if it's too worn for a motor, you don't
want to be pushing it by hand.
If you want a big coping saw, you might find that a replacement bow
saw blade is narrower than any bandsaw stock you can get.
--
Smert' spamionam
On Thu, 15 Apr 2004 09:48:39 -0400, Rudy Fichtenbaum
<[email protected]> brought forth from the murky depths:
>I am interested in getting a frame or bow saw. Is there any difference
>between the traditional type that is tensioned by string and a block of
>wood and the kind which uses a cable with a wing nut? I am assuming
>that what matters the most is the blade. I have been looking at the saws
>at traditional woodworker site. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Having half-finished a single bow saur myself, I feel fully
qualified to answer this question: yeah, there are differences.
Just don't ask me to quantify them for you, OK? (Y'know, other
than the string vs. steel thing.)
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-==-=--=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Life is full of little surprises. * Comprehensive Website Development
--Pandora * http://www.diversify.com
On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 19:15:39 -0700, Larry Jaques
<novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote:
>Having half-finished a single bow saur myself,
You're just not trying !
I did a bow-saw making class last year, where a dozen or so
kids-teens-adolescents were learning some green woodworking / simple
framing at a camp. Supplying only sawblades, nails (as blade pins)
and string (and coppiced poles we'd felled earlier), we got everyone
to make their own saw in an afternoon. Good fun too.
Frames were in either beech or ash, and they were of different sizes
(because idiot boy here hadn't bought enough of the right blades).
Some of the smaller beech ones even ended up with some pretty nice
carving on them, which is more than I could have done.
--
Smert' spamionam
On Sat, 17 Apr 2004 13:04:34 +0100, Andy Dingley
<[email protected]> brought forth from the murky depths:
>On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 19:15:39 -0700, Larry Jaques
><novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote:
>
>>Having half-finished a single bow saur myself,
>
>You're just not trying !
I lost interest and had 'lebenty seben new projects
going on during that time and never finished it. I
had ripped the teak, tenoned the rail, mortised the
verticals, punched the blade, turned the handles, and
stopped there. As I stated a few months ago, I found
the box of parts. Maybe, just maybe, I'll finish it
and give some of you guys less to complain about.
I'll do that RSN, but don't hold your breath. ;)
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-==-=--=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Life is full of little surprises. * Comprehensive Website Development
--Pandora * http://www.diversify.com
On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 21:13:06 -0600, Dave Balderstone
<dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_S.balderstone.ca> wrote:
>In article <[email protected]>, Larry Jaques
><novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote:
>
>> Having half-finished a single bow saur myself, I feel fully
>> qualified to answer this question:
>
>You're up to *half* finished now, Larry?
>
><d&r>
Well - thinking about doing something is "half of the battle"; so he
must be at least half way done. <G,D,R>
Alan Bierbaum
web site: http://www.calanb.com