miter plane mouth size

John Griffin-Wiesner wrote:
> Chattering. I haven't spent the time I need to on this
> yet. But I think I probably just need to take in the size
> of bite. Which brings us to the annoying slop in the
> adjustment screw. It seems that you have to screw it half
> the length of the bolt when changing direction.

Sounds like you may need to reset the frog placement to close the
mouth and support the blade more, and take a shallower cut. A
skewed cut may help as well.

Dave in Fairfax
--
Dave Leader
reply-to doesn't work
use:
daveldr at att dot net
American Association of Woodturners
http://www.woodturner.org
Capital Area Woodturners
http://www.capwoodturners.org/

On Tue, 24 Aug 2004 19:33:31 GMT, John Griffin-Wiesner
<[email protected]> wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>, Conan the Librarian wrote:
>> Ah yes ... backlash, the bane of all old Stanleys. I think you're
>> pretty well stuck with that problem unless you buy a L-N or LV. They
>> have managed to reduce the amount of backlash in their planes.
>
> Or how about a woody? I prefer the idea of a quick tap or
> two with a hammer to fiddling around with a knob. (Am I
> starting to show my neander tendencies?)
>
> So, who's figured out how to make a low-angle woody?
>

Okay, you've stumped me. What's the complication in a wooden block
plane that precludes making a low-angle version? Thickness of the wood
beneath the iron?

John Griffin-Wiesner wrote:

> A newbie question for sure. I've built my shooting board,
> and am trying it out with my bailey style planes. I'm not
> getting the results that I want even though I've sharpened
> the blades SS.
>
> I've read about miter planes, and using low angle planes for
> this, but am left with one question: How important is it to
> narrow down the mouth opening when shooting end grain? I'd
> think it wouldn't be as important as when planing long
> grain. Is the large mouth opening on the Bailey's going to
> limit their usefulness for shooting along with all other
> applications?

It's not critical, but I still like to be able to close down the
mouth for shooting. If you have old Stanley/Baileys, you should be able
to adjust the frog and/or put a thicker aftermarket iron in the plane to
close the mouth up. (I substitute Hocks for most of my older Stanleys,
and I've got a Samurai laminated iron in one.)

Personally, I always use a low-angle plane for shooting, and have
excellent results. The low-angle plus the solid bedding add up to good
endgrain work. Also, FWIW, even on endgrain you need to be aware of
grain direction. You'll find that there is a "good" and "bad"
direction.

So when you say that you aren't getting the results you want, is it
just the surface isn't smooth, or is the plane chattering, or is it
something else?


Chuck Vance

John Griffin-Wiesner wrote:

> Chattering. I haven't spent the time I need to on this
> yet. But I think I probably just need to take in the size
> of bite.

That's the most likely culprit. To work endgrain well you have to
take a pretty light cut. Otherwise, your plane is likely to "hop and
skip" (or chatter) across the wood as the iron engages and releases.

> Which brings us to the annoying slop in the
> adjustment screw. It seems that you have to screw it half
> the length of the bolt when changing direction.

Ah yes ... backlash, the bane of all old Stanleys. I think you're
pretty well stuck with that problem unless you buy a L-N or LV. They
have managed to reduce the amount of backlash in their planes.

Having mentioned that, another potential problem comes to mind.
Have you been making sure to finish all adjustments with the knob going
forward? If not, it could be that the slop is causing the blade to give
as you are trying to take a shaving. That could make for some
less-than-satisfactory results.


Chuck Vance

John Griffin-Wiesner wrote:

> In article <[email protected]>, Conan the Librarian wrote:
>
>> Ah yes ... backlash, the bane of all old Stanleys. I think you're
>>pretty well stuck with that problem unless you buy a L-N or LV. They
>>have managed to reduce the amount of backlash in their planes.
>
> Or how about a woody? I prefer the idea of a quick tap or
> two with a hammer to fiddling around with a knob. (Am I
> starting to show my neander tendencies?)

Don't worry, I won't tell. :-)

> So, who's figured out how to make a low-angle woody?

They've been made, but as you probably guessed, with a low-angle
plane you'd reduce the amount of support/bedding. You'd likely get some
flex or even run the risk of blowing out the sole.

>> Having mentioned that, another potential problem comes to mind.
>>Have you been making sure to finish all adjustments with the knob going
>>forward? If not, it could be that the slop is causing the blade to give
>>as you are trying to take a shaving. That could make for some
>>less-than-satisfactory results.
>
> Yes. I have made a point of making sure the knob is tight
> forward.

I figured you probably had, but it's something that can easily be
overlooked.


Chuck Vance

In article <[email protected]>, Conan the Librarian wrote:
> So when you say that you aren't getting the results you want, is it
> just the surface isn't smooth, or is the plane chattering, or is it
> something else?

Chattering. I haven't spent the time I need to on this
yet. But I think I probably just need to take in the size
of bite. Which brings us to the annoying slop in the
adjustment screw. It seems that you have to screw it half
the length of the bolt when changing direction.
>
>
> Chuck Vance

--
John Griffin-Wiesner
[email protected]

In article <[email protected]>, Conan the Librarian wrote:
> Ah yes ... backlash, the bane of all old Stanleys. I think you're
> pretty well stuck with that problem unless you buy a L-N or LV. They
> have managed to reduce the amount of backlash in their planes.

Or how about a woody? I prefer the idea of a quick tap or
two with a hammer to fiddling around with a knob. (Am I
starting to show my neander tendencies?)

So, who's figured out how to make a low-angle woody?

> Having mentioned that, another potential problem comes to mind.
> Have you been making sure to finish all adjustments with the knob going
> forward? If not, it could be that the slop is causing the blade to give
> as you are trying to take a shaving. That could make for some
> less-than-satisfactory results.

Yes. I have made a point of making sure the knob is tight
forward.

>
>
> Chuck Vance


--
John Griffin-Wiesner
[email protected]