I noticed what I thought might be a wobble in my new Sawstop blade, so I
measure the runout with the stock blade and a couple of my older blades,
and found runout of about 0.010 inches. So I wrote Sawstop and asked
what I should do.
The reply was that a brand-new blade is in the mail! No questioning,
doubting, haggling, accusations, or referrals to the dealer. No
questions asked, just a new blade. As far as I am concerned, Sawstop is
a real standup operation, and I'm glad I bought their saw.
woodchucker <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 3/21/2013 6:34 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
>> On Thursday, March 21, 2013 11:00:49 AM UTC-7, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
>>> Sawstop is
>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>> a real standup operation, and I'm glad I bought their saw.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> No disagreement, they are a good org, however that blade probably cost
>>> them $10, it is not really much to look at. I kept it around for cutting scrap stock.
>>
>> Just to clarify, maybe not a "crappy" blade but just a generic
>> non-descript blade. And, yes if I recall it is a combo blade which would
>> be the main reason I would never use it for real work. Right tool for
>> the job is my motto. Never had a combo piece of wood.
>>
>
> I don't agree. My Forrest WWII will cut better than my rip blade, just
> not as fast, but not too slow either.
>
> My FWWII will cut better than the Freud 80tooth that I used in my CMS,
> but before I did I tried it on the TS. But the difference is small.. real small.
>
> That 80tooth should have cross cut bettter than my 40tooth fwwii, but the
> forrest was better.
> So if I had a forrest rip and a forrest Crosscut, maybe the combo would
> lose, but the fwwii combo is pretty damn good.
>
> Obviously I am biased and this is subjective. So take it for what its worth.
I'll agree too with the WWII. I am not going to doubt that some prefer a
rip blade over a general or combo blade.. No doubt they have their reasons
with proof to back up their reasons. For me the WWII is the blade for all
cuts, and I have proof to back up my reasons. I totally believe it boils
down to what you prefer to use. No doubt there are better blades for each
specific type of cut vs using the WWII but with the results I am getting
you will need a magnifying glass to see a difference.
On 3/21/2013 6:34 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
> On Thursday, March 21, 2013 11:00:49 AM UTC-7, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
>> Sawstop is
>>
>>>
>>
>>> a real standup operation, and I'm glad I bought their saw.
>>
>>
>>
>> No disagreement, they are a good org, however that blade probably cost them $10, it is not really much to look at. I kept it around for cutting scrap stock.
>
> Just to clarify, maybe not a "crappy" blade but just a generic non-descript blade. And, yes if I recall it is a combo blade which would be the main reason I would never use it for real work. Right tool for the job is my motto. Never had a combo piece of wood.
>
I don't agree. My Forrest WWII will cut better than my rip blade, just
not as fast, but not too slow either.
My FWWII will cut better than the Freud 80tooth that I used in my CMS,
but before I did I tried it on the TS. But the difference is small..
real small.
That 80tooth should have cross cut bettter than my 40tooth fwwii, but
the forrest was better.
So if I had a forrest rip and a forrest Crosscut, maybe the combo would
lose, but the fwwii combo is pretty damn good.
Obviously I am biased and this is subjective. So take it for what its worth.
--
Jeff
On 3/21/2013 11:53 AM, knuttle wrote:
> On 3/21/2013 9:57 AM, Leon wrote:
>> On 3/21/2013 7:28 AM, Keith Nuttle wrote:
>>> On 3/20/2013 10:29 PM, scritch wrote:
>>>> I noticed what I thought might be a wobble in my new Sawstop blade,
>>>> so I
>>>> measure the runout with the stock blade and a couple of my older
>>>> blades,
>>>> and found runout of about 0.010 inches. So I wrote Sawstop and asked
>>>> what I should do.
>>>>
>>>> The reply was that a brand-new blade is in the mail! No questioning,
>>>> doubting, haggling, accusations, or referrals to the dealer. No
>>>> questions asked, just a new blade. As far as I am concerned,
>>>> Sawstop is
>>>> a real standup operation, and I'm glad I bought their saw.
>>>
>>>
>>> Was the blade the problem or did the blade assembly get knock out of
>>> line.
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> Blade assembly misalignment would not cause the blade to wobble.
> Bearings could
??
Get some sawdust stuck on one side only of your arbor flange (part of
the "blade assembly") and let us know if what you happens is not "wobble".
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On 3/21/2013 7:28 AM, Keith Nuttle wrote:
> On 3/20/2013 10:29 PM, scritch wrote:
>> I noticed what I thought might be a wobble in my new Sawstop blade, so I
>> measure the runout with the stock blade and a couple of my older blades,
>> and found runout of about 0.010 inches. So I wrote Sawstop and asked
>> what I should do.
>>
>> The reply was that a brand-new blade is in the mail! No questioning,
>> doubting, haggling, accusations, or referrals to the dealer. No
>> questions asked, just a new blade. As far as I am concerned, Sawstop is
>> a real standup operation, and I'm glad I bought their saw.
>
>
> Was the blade the problem or did the blade assembly get knock out of line.
That was going to be my question too. His report is somewhat confusing
but I'll take a chance and guess that he meant to say he recorded runout
with the new SawStop blade but not with his older blades.
Guess we'll find out.<g>
On Thursday, March 21, 2013 11:00:49 AM UTC-7, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
> Sawstop is=20
>=20
> >=20
>=20
> > a real standup operation, and I'm glad I bought their saw.
>=20
>=20
>=20
> No disagreement, they are a good org, however that blade probably cost th=
em $10, it is not really much to look at. I kept it around for cutting scra=
p stock.
Just to clarify, maybe not a "crappy" blade but just a generic non-descript=
blade. And, yes if I recall it is a combo blade which would be the main re=
ason I would never use it for real work. Right tool for the job is my motto=
. Never had a combo piece of wood.
On 4/14/2013 7:25 PM, Steve Barker wrote:
> On 3/20/2013 9:29 PM, scritch wrote:
>> I noticed what I thought might be a wobble in my new Sawstop blade, so I
>> measure the runout with the stock blade and a couple of my older blades,
>> and found runout of about 0.010 inches. So I wrote Sawstop and asked
>> what I should do.
>>
>> The reply was that a brand-new blade is in the mail! No questioning,
>> doubting, haggling, accusations, or referrals to the dealer. No
>> questions asked, just a new blade. As far as I am concerned, Sawstop is
>> a real standup operation, and I'm glad I bought their saw.
>
> We're glad YOU bought it also.
>
I bought one too but went with the industrial version.
On 3/22/2013 12:17 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 3/21/13 5:34 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
>> On Thursday, March 21, 2013 11:00:49 AM UTC-7, SonomaProducts.com
>> wrote:
>>> Sawstop is
>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>> a real standup operation, and I'm glad I bought their saw.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> No disagreement, they are a good org, however that blade probably
>>> cost them $10, it is not really much to look at. I kept it around
>>> for cutting scrap stock.
>>
>> Just to clarify, maybe not a "crappy" blade but just a generic
>> non-descript blade. And, yes if I recall it is a combo blade which
>> would be the main reason I would never use it for real work. Right
>> tool for the job is my motto. Never had a combo piece of wood.
>>
>
> IIRC, the Forrest WoodworkerII is a combo blade and it's supposed to the
> THE $h!t.
>
>
It is a "general" blade. ;~)
On 3/21/2013 12:00 PM, Swingman wrote:
> On 3/21/2013 11:53 AM, knuttle wrote:
>> On 3/21/2013 9:57 AM, Leon wrote:
>>> On 3/21/2013 7:28 AM, Keith Nuttle wrote:
>>>> On 3/20/2013 10:29 PM, scritch wrote:
>>>>> I noticed what I thought might be a wobble in my new Sawstop blade,
>>>>> so I
>>>>> measure the runout with the stock blade and a couple of my older
>>>>> blades,
>>>>> and found runout of about 0.010 inches. So I wrote Sawstop and asked
>>>>> what I should do.
>>>>>
>>>>> The reply was that a brand-new blade is in the mail! No questioning,
>>>>> doubting, haggling, accusations, or referrals to the dealer. No
>>>>> questions asked, just a new blade. As far as I am concerned,
>>>>> Sawstop is
>>>>> a real standup operation, and I'm glad I bought their saw.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Was the blade the problem or did the blade assembly get knock out of
>>>> line.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Blade assembly misalignment would not cause the blade to wobble.
>> Bearings could
>
> ??
>
> Get some sawdust stuck on one side only of your arbor flange (part of
> the "blade assembly") and let us know if what you happens is not "wobble".
>
Yes that will happen but given the fact that he said that he measured
for run out on the SawStop blade and and a couple of older blades and
all conditions being equal and no problems with the other blades, may be
not.
I was thinking the blade assembly alignment referral to be more of a
blade to miter slot adjustment more so than the blade installation being
compromised by debris.
I also assumed that since the perceived problem was not evident with
other blades that debris might not be the problem. Yes the debris could
have cleared itself when switching from he SS blade to an older one if
the SS was measured first and followed by the others. Debris could also
have only been on the SS blade vs the arbor flange.
A lot of unknowns as to the method of testing for run out and exactly
what area of blade assembly was being suggested.
I would assume SS probably may have ruled out the obvious, but maybe
not, it was a cheap first try to correct the problem. IIRC the blade
that comes standard on the SS depending on the particular saw is a $29
or $39 blade.
So I stand corrected, I assumed specifics which were not mentioned on
the blade assembly alignment and how the testing was conducted.
On 3/21/2013 1:26 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 3/21/13 1:00 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
>> Sawstop is
>>>
>>> a real standup operation, and I'm glad I bought their saw.
>>
>> No disagreement, they are a good org, however that blade probably
>> cost them $10, it is not really much to look at. I kept it around for
>> cutting scrap stock.
>>
>
> I never understood that from a marketing standpoint.
> I don't know the margins on their saws and I know every penny counts in
> manufacturing. But here's a company who makes no bones about the fact
> that their saw costs more, but is worth the extra cost. So, why a
> cheap-ass blade?
>
> When it comes down to it, the blade does the cutting, the blade is the
> proof of any wood cutting pudding. So why risk bad performance with a
> crappy blade? When someone buys your saw and the blade is $h!te and it
> produces a bad cut, most people will think "saw." And when someone is
> spending 5-7 grand on your saw, strike a deal with Freud and give them a
> great blade even though it might cost you $40 more.
>
>
Why a cheap ass blade?
I suspect for many the SawStop may be their first better quality saw and
that alone can make a cheap blade perform better than what may be
afforded on a lessor quality saw. Read that as many will be thrilled
with the cut of the cheap blade.
OTOH
Typically on higher end table saws the buyer seldom continues to buy the
Manufacturers branded blade, not saying that some blades that come in
the saws are not good but we all like our particular brand of blades.
And when it all boils down rest assured that SS is not throwing in the
blade at no cost to the buyer, it is built into the price of the saw.
It would be better if they supplied no blade at all.
OTOH if the SS actually cost $5-$7k I would think the blade might be
even better than a Forrest if supplied. The pro version starts under
$3k, the industrial just under $4k but that aside if there is going to
be a blade supplied I certainly want better than a Freud. ;~) See
where I am going here, no particular brand blade is going to please
every one and for any thing less than a $100+ blade is not going to be
good enough. I would rather be paying for a $30 blade that I will not
be using than a $60 blade that I will not be using.
On 3/23/2013 11:18 AM, scritch wrote:
> Sorry for the confusion. I measured about 0.010" runout on the new
> stock blade, and only about 0.002" runout using my old blades, so it
> most likely wasn't the arbor assembly. Sawstop sent me a new blade
> right away, and it runs nice and true.
>
> I asked Sawstop if they wanted the old one back, and they told me to not
> bother. Being cheap, I wonder if an old blade can be flattened, or if
> it's worth the trouble and expense. Any experience with flattening old
> blades?
>
> Of course, if it isn't worth flattening, I'll keep it for dirty wood.
Many shops will resharpen but not flatten a blade. Forrest will
reflatten a blade and their prices are on their web site IIRC. That
said, once you pay fro shipping both ways and flattening you will have
probably spent more that that blade costs. I would do shat you proposed
and use it for questionable material.
On 3/20/2013 9:29 PM, scritch wrote:
> I noticed what I thought might be a wobble in my new Sawstop blade, so I
> measure the runout with the stock blade and a couple of my older blades,
> and found runout of about 0.010 inches. So I wrote Sawstop and asked
> what I should do.
>
> The reply was that a brand-new blade is in the mail! No questioning,
> doubting, haggling, accusations, or referrals to the dealer. No
> questions asked, just a new blade. As far as I am concerned, Sawstop is
> a real standup operation, and I'm glad I bought their saw.
We're glad YOU bought it also.
--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email
On 3/21/2013 11:53 AM, knuttle wrote:
> On 3/21/2013 9:57 AM, Leon wrote:
>> On 3/21/2013 7:28 AM, Keith Nuttle wrote:
>>> On 3/20/2013 10:29 PM, scritch wrote:
>>>> I noticed what I thought might be a wobble in my new Sawstop blade,
>>>> so I
>>>> measure the runout with the stock blade and a couple of my older
>>>> blades,
>>>> and found runout of about 0.010 inches. So I wrote Sawstop and asked
>>>> what I should do.
>>>>
>>>> The reply was that a brand-new blade is in the mail! No questioning,
>>>> doubting, haggling, accusations, or referrals to the dealer. No
>>>> questions asked, just a new blade. As far as I am concerned,
>>>> Sawstop is
>>>> a real standup operation, and I'm glad I bought their saw.
>>>
>>>
>>> Was the blade the problem or did the blade assembly get knock out of
>>> line.
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> Blade assembly misalignment would not cause the blade to wobble.
> Bearings could
Yes, but only if they were defective, not misaligned.
On 3/23/2013 11:20 AM, scritch wrote:
> On 3/21/2013 6:54 AM, Leon wrote:
>> On 3/20/2013 9:29 PM, scritch wrote:
>>> I noticed what I thought might be a wobble in my new Sawstop blade, so I
>>> measure the runout with the stock blade and a couple of my older blades,
>>> and found runout of about 0.010 inches. So I wrote Sawstop and asked
>>> what I should do.
>>>
>>> The reply was that a brand-new blade is in the mail! No questioning,
>>> doubting, haggling, accusations, or referrals to the dealer. No
>>> questions asked, just a new blade. As far as I am concerned, Sawstop is
>>> a real standup operation, and I'm glad I bought their saw.
>>
>>
>> So tell me more!
>>
>> Which SawStop do you have, It sounds like it is relatively new, do you
>> have an out feed or mobile base with it?
>
> It's a brand-new professional model, 3hp. Beats the hell out of my old
> 1.5 hp Delta contractor's saw, except that I had built custom cabinets
> for the Delta to sit on. I really miss those drawers right there at the
> saw, so I need to come up with some storage solution quick. Any
> suggestions (note that there really isn't room on the garage shelves
> near the saw)?
Cool! I have a Jet cabinet saw and will be selling it soon. I plan to
buy the industrial SawStop.
I know just how you feel about giving up storage under the saw. Here is
how I currently have my Jet set up and will try to so something similar
with the SawStop
BEY the 15 roller out feed on the Jet is great no legs to worry with and
the saw can be moved with the out feed in the up position.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8583398068/in/photostream/lightbox/
On 3/20/2013 10:29 PM, scritch wrote:
> I noticed what I thought might be a wobble in my new Sawstop blade, so I
> measure the runout with the stock blade and a couple of my older blades,
> and found runout of about 0.010 inches. So I wrote Sawstop and asked
> what I should do.
>
> The reply was that a brand-new blade is in the mail! No questioning,
> doubting, haggling, accusations, or referrals to the dealer. No
> questions asked, just a new blade. As far as I am concerned, Sawstop is
> a real standup operation, and I'm glad I bought their saw.
Was the blade the problem or did the blade assembly get knock out of line.
On 3/21/2013 9:57 AM, Leon wrote:
> On 3/21/2013 7:28 AM, Keith Nuttle wrote:
>> On 3/20/2013 10:29 PM, scritch wrote:
>>> I noticed what I thought might be a wobble in my new Sawstop blade, so I
>>> measure the runout with the stock blade and a couple of my older blades,
>>> and found runout of about 0.010 inches. So I wrote Sawstop and asked
>>> what I should do.
>>>
>>> The reply was that a brand-new blade is in the mail! No questioning,
>>> doubting, haggling, accusations, or referrals to the dealer. No
>>> questions asked, just a new blade. As far as I am concerned, Sawstop is
>>> a real standup operation, and I'm glad I bought their saw.
>>
>>
>> Was the blade the problem or did the blade assembly get knock out of
>> line.
>>
>>
>
>
> Blade assembly misalignment would not cause the blade to wobble.
Bearings could
On 3/21/13 1:00 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
> Sawstop is
>>
>> a real standup operation, and I'm glad I bought their saw.
>
> No disagreement, they are a good org, however that blade probably
> cost them $10, it is not really much to look at. I kept it around for
> cutting scrap stock.
>
I never understood that from a marketing standpoint.
I don't know the margins on their saws and I know every penny counts in
manufacturing. But here's a company who makes no bones about the fact
that their saw costs more, but is worth the extra cost. So, why a
cheap-ass blade?
When it comes down to it, the blade does the cutting, the blade is the
proof of any wood cutting pudding. So why risk bad performance with a
crappy blade? When someone buys your saw and the blade is $h!te and it
produces a bad cut, most people will think "saw." And when someone is
spending 5-7 grand on your saw, strike a deal with Freud and give them a
great blade even though it might cost you $40 more.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 3/21/13 2:06 PM, Leon wrote:
> On 3/21/2013 1:26 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>> On 3/21/13 1:00 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
>>> Sawstop is
>>>>
>>>> a real standup operation, and I'm glad I bought their saw.
>>>
>>> No disagreement, they are a good org, however that blade probably
>>> cost them $10, it is not really much to look at. I kept it around for
>>> cutting scrap stock.
>>>
>>
>> I never understood that from a marketing standpoint.
>> I don't know the margins on their saws and I know every penny counts in
>> manufacturing. But here's a company who makes no bones about the fact
>> that their saw costs more, but is worth the extra cost. So, why a
>> cheap-ass blade?
>>
>> When it comes down to it, the blade does the cutting, the blade is the
>> proof of any wood cutting pudding. So why risk bad performance with a
>> crappy blade? When someone buys your saw and the blade is $h!te and it
>> produces a bad cut, most people will think "saw." And when someone is
>> spending 5-7 grand on your saw, strike a deal with Freud and give them a
>> great blade even though it might cost you $40 more.
>>
>>
>
>
> Why a cheap ass blade?
>
> I suspect for many the SawStop may be their first better quality saw and
> that alone can make a cheap blade perform better than what may be
> afforded on a lessor quality saw. Read that as many will be thrilled
> with the cut of the cheap blade.
>
I've learned that a $100 blade on a $300 saw can make a cut that rivals
a $1500 saw.
I've also learned that a $30 blade on a $1500 saw can make cuts that
rivals the $300 saw. :-)
> OTOH
>
> Typically on higher end table saws the buyer seldom continues to buy the
> Manufacturers branded blade, not saying that some blades that come in
> the saws are not good but we all like our particular brand of blades.
> And when it all boils down rest assured that SS is not throwing in the
> blade at no cost to the buyer, it is built into the price of the saw. It
> would be better if they supplied no blade at all.
>
> OTOH if the SS actually cost $5-$7k I would think the blade might be
> even better than a Forrest if supplied. The pro version starts under
> $3k, the industrial just under $4k but that aside if there is going to
> be a blade supplied I certainly want better than a Freud. ;~) See
> where I am going here, no particular brand blade is going to please
> every one and for any thing less than a $100+ blade is not going to be
> good enough. I would rather be paying for a $30 blade that I will not
> be using than a $60 blade that I will not be using.
>
5-7K or 3-5K... same difference to me as it pertains to the topic.
I still contend that if I'm sending a product out, I want it making
pristine cuts "out of the box."
And I'd put up my Freud Glue-Line Rip blade against any Forrest blade.
:-)
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 3/21/13 5:34 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
> On Thursday, March 21, 2013 11:00:49 AM UTC-7, SonomaProducts.com
> wrote:
>> Sawstop is
>>
>>>
>>
>>> a real standup operation, and I'm glad I bought their saw.
>>
>>
>>
>> No disagreement, they are a good org, however that blade probably
>> cost them $10, it is not really much to look at. I kept it around
>> for cutting scrap stock.
>
> Just to clarify, maybe not a "crappy" blade but just a generic
> non-descript blade. And, yes if I recall it is a combo blade which
> would be the main reason I would never use it for real work. Right
> tool for the job is my motto. Never had a combo piece of wood.
>
IIRC, the Forrest WoodworkerII is a combo blade and it's supposed to the
THE $h!t.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Sorry for the confusion. I measured about 0.010" runout on the new
stock blade, and only about 0.002" runout using my old blades, so it
most likely wasn't the arbor assembly. Sawstop sent me a new blade
right away, and it runs nice and true.
I asked Sawstop if they wanted the old one back, and they told me to not
bother. Being cheap, I wonder if an old blade can be flattened, or if
it's worth the trouble and expense. Any experience with flattening old
blades?
Of course, if it isn't worth flattening, I'll keep it for dirty wood.
On 3/21/2013 6:54 AM, Leon wrote:
> On 3/20/2013 9:29 PM, scritch wrote:
>> I noticed what I thought might be a wobble in my new Sawstop blade, so I
>> measure the runout with the stock blade and a couple of my older blades,
>> and found runout of about 0.010 inches. So I wrote Sawstop and asked
>> what I should do.
>>
>> The reply was that a brand-new blade is in the mail! No questioning,
>> doubting, haggling, accusations, or referrals to the dealer. No
>> questions asked, just a new blade. As far as I am concerned, Sawstop is
>> a real standup operation, and I'm glad I bought their saw.
>
>
> So tell me more!
>
> Which SawStop do you have, It sounds like it is relatively new, do you
> have an out feed or mobile base with it?
It's a brand-new professional model, 3hp. Beats the hell out of my old
1.5 hp Delta contractor's saw, except that I had built custom cabinets
for the Delta to sit on. I really miss those drawers right there at the
saw, so I need to come up with some storage solution quick. Any
suggestions (note that there really isn't room on the garage shelves
near the saw)?
On 3/21/2013 7:28 AM, Keith Nuttle wrote:
> On 3/20/2013 10:29 PM, scritch wrote:
>> I noticed what I thought might be a wobble in my new Sawstop blade, so I
>> measure the runout with the stock blade and a couple of my older blades,
>> and found runout of about 0.010 inches. So I wrote Sawstop and asked
>> what I should do.
>>
>> The reply was that a brand-new blade is in the mail! No questioning,
>> doubting, haggling, accusations, or referrals to the dealer. No
>> questions asked, just a new blade. As far as I am concerned, Sawstop is
>> a real standup operation, and I'm glad I bought their saw.
>
>
> Was the blade the problem or did the blade assembly get knock out of line.
>
>
Blade assembly misalignment would not cause the blade to wobble.
On 3/20/2013 9:29 PM, scritch wrote:
> I noticed what I thought might be a wobble in my new Sawstop blade, so I
> measure the runout with the stock blade and a couple of my older blades,
> and found runout of about 0.010 inches. So I wrote Sawstop and asked
> what I should do.
>
> The reply was that a brand-new blade is in the mail! No questioning,
> doubting, haggling, accusations, or referrals to the dealer. No
> questions asked, just a new blade. As far as I am concerned, Sawstop is
> a real standup operation, and I'm glad I bought their saw.
So tell me more!
Which SawStop do you have, It sounds like it is relatively new, do you
have an out feed or mobile base with it?
On 3/21/2013 2:27 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 3/21/13 2:06 PM, Leon wrote:
>> On 3/21/2013 1:26 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>> On 3/21/13 1:00 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
>>>> Sawstop is
>>>>>
>>>>> a real standup operation, and I'm glad I bought their saw.
>>>>
>>>> No disagreement, they are a good org, however that blade probably
>>>> cost them $10, it is not really much to look at. I kept it around for
>>>> cutting scrap stock.
>>>>
>>>
>>> I never understood that from a marketing standpoint.
>>> I don't know the margins on their saws and I know every penny counts in
>>> manufacturing. But here's a company who makes no bones about the fact
>>> that their saw costs more, but is worth the extra cost. So, why a
>>> cheap-ass blade?
>>>
>>> When it comes down to it, the blade does the cutting, the blade is the
>>> proof of any wood cutting pudding. So why risk bad performance with a
>>> crappy blade? When someone buys your saw and the blade is $h!te and it
>>> produces a bad cut, most people will think "saw." And when someone is
>>> spending 5-7 grand on your saw, strike a deal with Freud and give them a
>>> great blade even though it might cost you $40 more.
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> Why a cheap ass blade?
>>
>> I suspect for many the SawStop may be their first better quality saw and
>> that alone can make a cheap blade perform better than what may be
>> afforded on a lessor quality saw. Read that as many will be thrilled
>> with the cut of the cheap blade.
>>
>
> I've learned that a $100 blade on a $300 saw can make a cut that rivals
> a $1500 saw.
> I've also learned that a $30 blade on a $1500 saw can make cuts that
> rivals the $300 saw. :-)
>
>
>> OTOH
>>
>> Typically on higher end table saws the buyer seldom continues to buy the
>> Manufacturers branded blade, not saying that some blades that come in
>> the saws are not good but we all like our particular brand of blades.
>> And when it all boils down rest assured that SS is not throwing in the
>> blade at no cost to the buyer, it is built into the price of the saw. It
>> would be better if they supplied no blade at all.
>>
>> OTOH if the SS actually cost $5-$7k I would think the blade might be
>> even better than a Forrest if supplied. The pro version starts under
>> $3k, the industrial just under $4k but that aside if there is going to
>> be a blade supplied I certainly want better than a Freud. ;~) See
>> where I am going here, no particular brand blade is going to please
>> every one and for any thing less than a $100+ blade is not going to be
>> good enough. I would rather be paying for a $30 blade that I will not
>> be using than a $60 blade that I will not be using.
>>
>
> 5-7K or 3-5K... same difference to me as it pertains to the topic.
> I still contend that if I'm sending a product out, I want it making
> pristine cuts "out of the box."
> And I'd put up my Freud Glue-Line Rip blade against any Forrest blade. :-)
>
>
OK bring your Freud Glue-Line rib blade over and we will compare the
results of it to my Forrest WWII cutting oak veneer plywood cross grain.
;~)
See, again, which blade should SS ship, a Freud rip, cross cut, or combo
blade? Actually IIRC they are shipping a combo blade with the saw. I
want to buy the saw for what the saw has to offer not for the blade.
I'll buy my own blade. Again IMHO ship the saw w/o a blade.
No doubt you are happy with the results that you are getting from your
equipment. NO DOUBT. But not every one see's it your way. Basically
as with any manufacturer, they go with you can please some people all of
the time, all of the people some of the time but all people all of the
time. I'm quite sure that some of the people are going to think that
the blase that comes with the SS will be comparable to the Forrest also.
Now having said that, SS does offer a premium priced blade, you can buy
that blade when you buy the saw and I feel quite certain that you are
going to get superior cuts compared to the blade that comes with the
saw, maybe not. But that is going to cost another $90 and more than
likely you can buy a better blade for the same $90 depending on what you
like.
Now having said all of that I do see your point, vividly. My Festool
track saw came with a premium Festool blade. I am happy with the
results of the blade but maybe a Forrest which is likely to be less
expensive will cut just as well for a lot longer period of time between
sharpenings.