(Cross-posted to rec.woodworking, alt.home.repair)
A little bit of amateur bathroom remodeling/cabinetry going on here. And
a little bit of finding myself backed into a (hardware) corner by not
researching hinges before starting the project.
I've built a new medicine cabinet flush into the plaster wall above the
sink. The cabinet sides are made of 3/4'' MDF and I plan to hang a
cabinet door over the front of the cabinet, same width as the outside
dim of the cabinet.
I want as little hardware to show as possible, but the stiles on the
cabinet door are narrow, to accommodate a mirror and its backing, so I
can't use "Euro" hidden hinges. A 2'' narrow loose pin "utility" hinge
would do the job but the ones I've found would require drilling into the
edge of the cabinet's MDF sides -- I don't get a real sense that this is
going to be very secure.
I have a sketch of the kind of hinge I'd like to use -- it's like that
2'' utility hinge but with one long leaf, folded back. The local HD and
Lowe's have no such thing, and it may not exist. Please see my
admittedly crude drawing at
http://users.adelphia.net/~elliottfamily/hinge.gif
--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
KG6RCR
On 12/12/2004 6:23 AM dadiOH wrote:
> Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott wrote:
>
>
>>Those hinges -- like the
>>overlay hinges -- seem to throw the knuckle forward into the room,
>
>
> There's a reason for that. Hinging the way you want to do will limit
> the door swing to 90 degrees. It is not a good method...if someone
> inadvertantly opens the door too hard something is going to give.
In my case, if the cabinet door opens much more than 90 degrees it will
smack into a wall sconce. I'll put some kind of chain or string to stop
the door before anything gets hammered.
--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
KG6RCR
On 12/11/2004 4:26 PM US(ET), Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott took
fingers to keys, and typed the following:
> (Cross-posted to rec.woodworking, alt.home.repair)
>
> A little bit of amateur bathroom remodeling/cabinetry going on here.
> And a little bit of finding myself backed into a (hardware) corner by
> not researching hinges before starting the project.
>
> I've built a new medicine cabinet flush into the plaster wall above
> the sink. The cabinet sides are made of 3/4'' MDF and I plan to hang a
> cabinet door over the front of the cabinet, same width as the outside
> dim of the cabinet.
>
> I want as little hardware to show as possible, but the stiles on the
> cabinet door are narrow, to accommodate a mirror and its backing, so I
> can't use "Euro" hidden hinges. A 2'' narrow loose pin "utility" hinge
> would do the job but the ones I've found would require drilling into
> the edge of the cabinet's MDF sides -- I don't get a real sense that
> this is going to be very secure.
>
> I have a sketch of the kind of hinge I'd like to use -- it's like that
> 2'' utility hinge but with one long leaf, folded back. The local HD
> and Lowe's have no such thing, and it may not exist. Please see my
> admittedly crude drawing at
>
> http://users.adelphia.net/~elliottfamily/hinge.gif
I don't know why you can't screw the loose pin hinges into the end of
the MDF. Just use longer screws to catch more material.
But here's a look at some like your drawing:
http://www.thehardwarehut.com/cabinet_hinge_types.php
On 12/11/2004 5:32 PM US(ET), Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott took
fingers to keys, and typed the following:
> On 12/11/2004 2:00 PM willshak wrote:
>
>> On 12/11/2004 4:26 PM US(ET), Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott took
>> fingers to keys, and typed the following:
>>
>>> (Cross-posted to rec.woodworking, alt.home.repair)
>>
>
> <snip>
>
>>> I have a sketch of the kind of hinge I'd like to use -- it's like
>>> that 2'' utility hinge but with one long leaf, folded back. The
>>> local HD and Lowe's have no such thing, and it may not exist. Please
>>> see my admittedly crude drawing at
>>>
>>> http://users.adelphia.net/~elliottfamily/hinge.gif
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> I don't know why you can't screw the loose pin hinges into the end of
>> the MDF. Just use longer screws to catch more material.
>> But here's a look at some like your drawing:
>> http://www.thehardwarehut.com/cabinet_hinge_types.php
>
>
> Great page to help the newbie w/ hinges! Those hinges -- like the
> overlay hinges -- seem to throw the knuckle forward into the room, and
> I want this door to have as close to hidden hinges as possible. That's
> why something like a regular utility hinge with folded-back wing on
> the frame side seems so attractive, because the knuckle will lay
> against the wall.
>
> But onto your suggestion about just mounting into the edge of the MDF.
> The cabinet door won't be super-heavy, just a 17'' wide by 28'' tall
> poplar frame w/ 1/8'' mirror glass in it. But given that most of my
> woodworking projects show the hand -- and foot -- of my craftsmanship,
> I would not be surprised to have the MDF split when installing the
> screws, even with careful pre-drilling. Or see one of the hinges come
> loose a few years down the road. Screwing through the side of the
> frame rather than into the edge just seems more secure. Or maybe I'm
> just ascribing to MDF the weakness of particle board?
If you are going to use the 1/2" hinge screws into the MDF ends, then
yes, they may pull out. But, you are going into the MDF at its greatest
depth. You can use 1-1/2" or longer screws and probably be able to hang
yourself from the doors, or at least bend the hinges trying. :-).
"Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott"
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> But onto your suggestion about just mounting into the edge of the MDF.
> The cabinet door won't be super-heavy, just a 17'' wide by 28'' tall
> poplar frame w/ 1/8'' mirror glass in it. But given that most of my
> woodworking projects show the hand -- and foot -- of my craftsmanship, I
> would not be surprised to have the MDF split when installing the screws,
> even with careful pre-drilling. Or see one of the hinges come loose a
> few years down the road. Screwing through the side of the frame rather
> than into the edge just seems more secure. Or maybe I'm just ascribing
> to MDF the weakness of particle board?
>
First off MDF is not particle board. Particle board is woodchips and glue,
MDF is saw dust and epoxy.
Use a piano hinge, secure it to the door with wood screws, and you can drill
and tap the MDF to take machine screws.
Wth this setup I bet the door would brake long before the screws pulled out
of the MDF.
--
Roger Shoaf
About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.
>
>I have a sketch of the kind of hinge I'd like to use -- it's like that
>2'' utility hinge but with one long leaf, folded back. The local HD and
>Lowe's have no such thing, and it may not exist. Please see my
>admittedly crude drawing at
>
>http://users.adelphia.net/~elliottfamily/hinge.gif
>
>--
>
>Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
>71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
>84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
>KG6RCR
>
>
>
>
>
Mike,
I believe a face frame overlay hinge will do the trick. Just install the side
that would normally attach to the door to your cabinet. Such as - the larger
part of hinge usually attaches to the door & smaller part to cabinet, just
reverse this and connect the small side to your door.
Here is a link
http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product_details.cfm?&offerings_id=244&objectg
roup_id=66&catid=21&filter=hinges
There is a PDF file that describes the hinge on the site.
Normal disclaimer - not associated with Rockler in any way.
Hope this helps.
Big John
Take out the TRASH for E-mail.
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
> Those hinges -- like the
> overlay hinges -- seem to throw the knuckle forward into the room, and I
> want this door to have as close to hidden hinges as possible.
>
How about those "barrel" hinges where you drill a hole in each piece,
insert the hinges, and tighten a screw to expand the inge tightly
against the material. Completely hidden and, IIRC, 180 degree opening.
The more expensive route might be Soss hinges.
--
Homo sapiens is a goal, not a description
Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott wrote:
> So lemme get this straight -- with something like a metric Forstner
> bit, you drill a hole into the edge of the cabinet side and the rear
> of the door. Shove these puppys in and tighten the screw to expand
> the body. Pretty clever!
Yeah except that the holes have to be drilled *precisely*. And even
with 10mm there isn't much leeway on the sides going into 3/4" stock
from the edge.
They are useful hinges but I wouldn't use them in particle board...I
suspect they would work loose in short order.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.05...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott wrote:
> Those hinges -- like the
> overlay hinges -- seem to throw the knuckle forward into the room,
There's a reason for that. Hinging the way you want to do will limit
the door swing to 90 degrees. It is not a good method...if someone
inadvertantly opens the door too hard something is going to give.
The hinge knuckle should be in the same plane as the front of the
door...that will allow 180 degree opening and no racking. One way to
accomplish that is by using knife/pivot hinges inset into door
top/bottom...only the small pivot would show.
http://www.hardwaresource.com/Store_ViewCatLevel3.asp?Cat=24&OrderID=
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.05...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott wrote:
> On 12/12/2004 6:23 AM dadiOH wrote:
>
>> Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott wrote:
>>
>>
>>> Those hinges -- like the
>>> overlay hinges -- seem to throw the knuckle forward into the room,
>>
>>
>> There's a reason for that. Hinging the way you want to do will limit
>> the door swing to 90 degrees. It is not a good method...if someone
>> inadvertantly opens the door too hard something is going to give.
>
> In my case, if the cabinet door opens much more than 90 degrees it
> will smack into a wall sconce. I'll put some kind of chain or string
> to stop the door before anything gets hammered.
That will look peachy :)
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.05...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
On 12/11/2004 2:00 PM willshak wrote:
> On 12/11/2004 4:26 PM US(ET), Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott took
> fingers to keys, and typed the following:
>
>> (Cross-posted to rec.woodworking, alt.home.repair)
<snip>
>> I have a sketch of the kind of hinge I'd like to use -- it's like that
>> 2'' utility hinge but with one long leaf, folded back. The local HD
>> and Lowe's have no such thing, and it may not exist. Please see my
>> admittedly crude drawing at
>>
>> http://users.adelphia.net/~elliottfamily/hinge.gif
>
>
>
> I don't know why you can't screw the loose pin hinges into the end of
> the MDF. Just use longer screws to catch more material.
> But here's a look at some like your drawing:
> http://www.thehardwarehut.com/cabinet_hinge_types.php
Great page to help the newbie w/ hinges! Those hinges -- like the
overlay hinges -- seem to throw the knuckle forward into the room, and I
want this door to have as close to hidden hinges as possible. That's why
something like a regular utility hinge with folded-back wing on the
frame side seems so attractive, because the knuckle will lay against the
wall.
But onto your suggestion about just mounting into the edge of the MDF.
The cabinet door won't be super-heavy, just a 17'' wide by 28'' tall
poplar frame w/ 1/8'' mirror glass in it. But given that most of my
woodworking projects show the hand -- and foot -- of my craftsmanship, I
would not be surprised to have the MDF split when installing the screws,
even with careful pre-drilling. Or see one of the hinges come loose a
few years down the road. Screwing through the side of the frame rather
than into the edge just seems more secure. Or maybe I'm just ascribing
to MDF the weakness of particle board?
--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
KG6RCR
"dust Proof Kitchen Cabinet Hinges" are similar to your drawing, However
Screwing into the edge of MDF does not present a problem and give a good
fixing if you drill a pilot hole first. Use a narrow gauge screw and
make the pilot hole at least as deep as the screw. Use a screw that is
1 - 1 3/4" in length.
John
Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott wrote:
> (Cross-posted to rec.woodworking, alt.home.repair)
>
> A little bit of amateur bathroom remodeling/cabinetry going on here. And
> a little bit of finding myself backed into a (hardware) corner by not
> researching hinges before starting the project.
>
> I've built a new medicine cabinet flush into the plaster wall above the
> sink. The cabinet sides are made of 3/4'' MDF and I plan to hang a
> cabinet door over the front of the cabinet, same width as the outside
> dim of the cabinet.
>
> I want as little hardware to show as possible, but the stiles on the
> cabinet door are narrow, to accommodate a mirror and its backing, so I
> can't use "Euro" hidden hinges. A 2'' narrow loose pin "utility" hinge
> would do the job but the ones I've found would require drilling into the
> edge of the cabinet's MDF sides -- I don't get a real sense that this is
> going to be very secure.
>
> I have a sketch of the kind of hinge I'd like to use -- it's like that
> 2'' utility hinge but with one long leaf, folded back. The local HD and
> Lowe's have no such thing, and it may not exist. Please see my
> admittedly crude drawing at
>
> http://users.adelphia.net/~elliottfamily/hinge.gif
>
On 12/12/2004 11:01 PM John wrote:
> Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott wrote:
>
>> On 12/11/2004 7:39 PM John wrote:
>>
>>> "dust Proof Kitchen Cabinet Hinges" are similar to your drawing,
>>> However Screwing into the edge of MDF does not present a problem and
>>> give a good fixing if you drill a pilot hole first. Use a narrow
>>> gauge screw and make the pilot hole at least as deep as the screw.
>>> Use a screw that is
>>> 1 - 1 3/4" in length.
>>
>>
>>
>> Can't find anything like a "dust proof kitchen cabinet hinge." Anyone
>> got a link to this?
>>
> Give this link a go. They're not exactly like I had in mind but perhaps
> they'll do the job.
>
> http://www.wwhardware.com/catalog.cfm/GroupID/Cabinet%20Hinges/CatID/Cabinet%20Hinges%2C%20Amerock%20Decorative/SubCatID/Half%20Wrap%2C%20Self%20Closing%2C%20Overlay
Ah, thanks. I looked at those at HD. The door wing is so long the screws
would penetrate the mirror, and the frame wing is set up for 3/8''
overlay, and I've got 3/4'' overlay on my cabinet.
--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
KG6RCR
------------------------------------
Today's Deep Thought:
With clothes the new are best, with friends the old are best.
------------------------------------
On 12/11/2004 2:56 PM willshak wrote:
> On 12/11/2004 5:32 PM US(ET), Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott took
> fingers to keys, and typed the following:
<snip>
>> But onto your suggestion about just mounting into the edge of the MDF.
>> The cabinet door won't be super-heavy, just a 17'' wide by 28'' tall
>> poplar frame w/ 1/8'' mirror glass in it. But given that most of my
>> woodworking projects show the hand -- and foot -- of my craftsmanship,
>> I would not be surprised to have the MDF split when installing the
>> screws, even with careful pre-drilling. Or see one of the hinges come
>> loose a few years down the road. Screwing through the side of the
>> frame rather than into the edge just seems more secure. Or maybe I'm
>> just ascribing to MDF the weakness of particle board?
>
>
> If you are going to use the 1/2" hinge screws into the MDF ends, then
> yes, they may pull out. But, you are going into the MDF at its greatest
> depth. You can use 1-1/2" or longer screws and probably be able to hang
> yourself from the doors, or at least bend the hinges trying. :-).
>
Sounds like a plan!
<Sound of me hanging myself from the doors>: Hungghhh!
--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
KG6RCR
try this link:
http://www.richelieu.com/produits/popupProduit.php?id=11889
might be good for what you need
Chris Melanson
BLH Millwork LTD.
"Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott"
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> (Cross-posted to rec.woodworking, alt.home.repair)
>
> A little bit of amateur bathroom remodeling/cabinetry going on here. And a
> little bit of finding myself backed into a (hardware) corner by not
> researching hinges before starting the project.
>
> I've built a new medicine cabinet flush into the plaster wall above the
> sink. The cabinet sides are made of 3/4'' MDF and I plan to hang a cabinet
> door over the front of the cabinet, same width as the outside dim of the
> cabinet.
>
> I want as little hardware to show as possible, but the stiles on the
> cabinet door are narrow, to accommodate a mirror and its backing, so I
> can't use "Euro" hidden hinges. A 2'' narrow loose pin "utility" hinge
> would do the job but the ones I've found would require drilling into the
> edge of the cabinet's MDF sides -- I don't get a real sense that this is
> going to be very secure.
>
> I have a sketch of the kind of hinge I'd like to use -- it's like that 2''
> utility hinge but with one long leaf, folded back. The local HD and Lowe's
> have no such thing, and it may not exist. Please see my admittedly crude
> drawing at
>
> http://users.adelphia.net/~elliottfamily/hinge.gif
>
> --
>
> Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
> 71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
> 84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
> KG6RCR
On 12/11/2004 7:39 PM John wrote:
> "dust Proof Kitchen Cabinet Hinges" are similar to your drawing, However
> Screwing into the edge of MDF does not present a problem and give a good
> fixing if you drill a pilot hole first. Use a narrow gauge screw and
> make the pilot hole at least as deep as the screw. Use a screw that is
> 1 - 1 3/4" in length.
Can't find anything like a "dust proof kitchen cabinet hinge." Anyone
got a link to this?
--
--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
KG6RCR
Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott wrote:
> On 12/11/2004 7:39 PM John wrote:
>
>> "dust Proof Kitchen Cabinet Hinges" are similar to your drawing,
>> However Screwing into the edge of MDF does not present a problem and
>> give a good fixing if you drill a pilot hole first. Use a narrow gauge
>> screw and make the pilot hole at least as deep as the screw. Use a
>> screw that is
>> 1 - 1 3/4" in length.
>
>
> Can't find anything like a "dust proof kitchen cabinet hinge." Anyone
> got a link to this?
>
Give this link a go. They're not exactly like I had in mind but perhaps
they'll do the job.
http://www.wwhardware.com/catalog.cfm/GroupID/Cabinet%20Hinges/CatID/Cabinet%20Hinges%2C%20Amerock%20Decorative/SubCatID/Half%20Wrap%2C%20Self%20Closing%2C%20Overlay
Regards
John
On 12/11/2004 4:27 PM Larry Blanchard wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>,
> [email protected] says...
>
>> Those hinges -- like the
>>overlay hinges -- seem to throw the knuckle forward into the room, and I
>>want this door to have as close to hidden hinges as possible.
>>
>
> How about those "barrel" hinges where you drill a hole in each piece,
> insert the hinges, and tighten a screw to expand the inge tightly
> against the material. Completely hidden and, IIRC, 180 degree opening.
Interesting hinge. I took a look at the pdf over at rockler.com
http://www.rockler.com/tech/28555.pdf
They have "some possible applications" sketches on bottom of the first
page. Mine looks like the leftmost sketch.
So lemme get this straight -- with something like a metric Forstner bit,
you drill a hole into the edge of the cabinet side and the rear of the
door. Shove these puppys in and tighten the screw to expand the body.
Pretty clever!
I don't want to split the MDF on the edge of the cabinet. When the screw
is tightened, how does the barrel expand? Looking at the upper right
sketch on the Rockler pdf ("Tightening Screw"): does the barrel expand
vertically (on that picture) or horizontally. Or just get fatter all
'round? I wonder if the barrel presses against the thin side of the
barrel hole, or against the thick side.
> The more expensive route might be Soss hinges.
Yep -- those are mighty pretty hinges.
--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
KG6RCR
On 12/12/2004 11:23 AM dadiOH wrote:
> Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott wrote:
>
>>On 12/12/2004 6:23 AM dadiOH wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>Those hinges -- like the
>>>>overlay hinges -- seem to throw the knuckle forward into the room,
>>>
>>>
>>>There's a reason for that. Hinging the way you want to do will limit
>>>the door swing to 90 degrees. It is not a good method...if someone
>>>inadvertantly opens the door too hard something is going to give.
>>
>>In my case, if the cabinet door opens much more than 90 degrees it
>>will smack into a wall sconce. I'll put some kind of chain or string
>>to stop the door before anything gets hammered.
>
>
> That will look peachy :)
Heh. Yeah, I'm thinking a big old chunk of chain with a piece of old
green garden hose slipped over it.
--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
KG6RCR
"Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott"
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> (Cross-posted to rec.woodworking, alt.home.repair)
>
> A little bit of amateur bathroom remodeling/cabinetry going on here. And
> a little bit of finding myself backed into a (hardware) corner by not
> researching hinges before starting the project.
>
> I've built a new medicine cabinet flush into the plaster wall above the
> sink. The cabinet sides are made of 3/4'' MDF and I plan to hang a
> cabinet door over the front of the cabinet, same width as the outside
> dim of the cabinet.
>
> I want as little hardware to show as possible, but the stiles on the
> cabinet door are narrow, to accommodate a mirror and its backing, so I
> can't use "Euro" hidden hinges. A 2'' narrow loose pin "utility" hinge
> would do the job but the ones I've found would require drilling into the
> edge of the cabinet's MDF sides -- I don't get a real sense that this is
> going to be very secure.
>
> I have a sketch of the kind of hinge I'd like to use -- it's like that
> 2'' utility hinge but with one long leaf, folded back. The local HD and
> Lowe's have no such thing, and it may not exist. Please see my
> admittedly crude drawing at
>
> http://users.adelphia.net/~elliottfamily/hinge.gif
>
> --
>
> Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
> 71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
> 84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
> KG6RCR
Would something like this work?
http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product_details.cfm?&offerings_id=1159
http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product_group.cfm?&objectgroup_id=345&catid=21
On 12/11/2004 6:15 PM John wrote:
> Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott wrote:
>
>> (Cross-posted to rec.woodworking, alt.home.repair)
>>
>
>>
>
>>
>> I want as little hardware to show as possible, but the stiles on the
>> cabinet door are narrow, to accommodate a mirror and its backing, so I
>> can't use "Euro" hidden hinges. A 2'' narrow loose pin "utility" hinge
>> would do the job but the ones I've found would require drilling into
>> the edge of the cabinet's MDF sides -- I don't get a real sense that
>> this is going to be very secure.
>>
>
>> http://users.adelphia.net/~elliottfamily/hinge.gif
>>
>
> If it is not too late in the project you may try adding reinforcement to
> the MDF. Drill a hole into the MDF and insert a hardwood dowel. Then
> screw the hinges into the dowel.
> Just my $0.02
Worth more than $0.02, I reckon. Good advice is priceless - especially
when it is offered for free. Thank you.
--
--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
KG6RCR
On 12/11/2004 2:22 PM WilliaJ2 wrote:
>>I have a sketch of the kind of hinge I'd like to use -- it's like that
>>2'' utility hinge but with one long leaf, folded back. The local HD and
>>Lowe's have no such thing, and it may not exist. Please see my
>>admittedly crude drawing at
>>
>>http://users.adelphia.net/~elliottfamily/hinge.gif
>>
>>--
>>
>>Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
>>71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
>>84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
>>KG6RCR
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> Mike,
> I believe a face frame overlay hinge will do the trick. Just install the side
> that would normally attach to the door to your cabinet. Such as - the larger
> part of hinge usually attaches to the door & smaller part to cabinet, just
> reverse this and connect the small side to your door.
I picked one of those up at the hardware store this morning and turned
it every which-way. At first it seemed like it would do the job. But as
I recall, when you fold the "door" wing back to mount to the inside of
the cabinet, the "frame" wing, which I would mount the door to, projects
more than 3/8'' into the room, spacing the cabinet door away from the
wall. This is because the knuckle of the hinge, rather than being off to
the side of the door as my sketch has it, ends up between the frame and
the door.
Memo to self: find the hinge you are going to work with BEFORE building
the cabinet!
--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
KG6RCR
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Today's Deep Thought:
To the optimist, the glass is half full. To the pessimist, the glass is
half empty. To the engineer, the glass is twice as big as it needs to be.
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Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott wrote:
> (Cross-posted to rec.woodworking, alt.home.repair)
>
>
>
> I want as little hardware to show as possible, but the stiles on the
> cabinet door are narrow, to accommodate a mirror and its backing, so I
> can't use "Euro" hidden hinges. A 2'' narrow loose pin "utility" hinge
> would do the job but the ones I've found would require drilling into the
> edge of the cabinet's MDF sides -- I don't get a real sense that this is
> going to be very secure.
>
> http://users.adelphia.net/~elliottfamily/hinge.gif
>
If it is not too late in the project you may try adding reinforcement to
the MDF. Drill a hole into the MDF and insert a hardwood dowel. Then
screw the hinges into the dowel.
Just my $0.02