Hello,
This isn't exactly what I'd call a woodworking question but it's close
enough probably not to offend. I have a reach-in closet with an 8 foot
opening that previously housed huge bypass doors. Three of them.... it was
a very odd and unfunctional arrangement.
What I am considering is adding a post in the center of the opening and
using two sets of double doors. I would lose a bit of closet space from the
post but I think it would look great from the room and I can deal with the
space loss.
I suspect that you can't just toenail a couple 2x4's in the center to the
floor and header and work from there. Can anyone tell me the proper
installation of such a post? I'd rather have the openings free of any kind
of bracing blocks etc on the floor.
thanks very much
ml
[email protected] wrote:
>
> Hello,
> This isn't exactly what I'd call a woodworking question but it's close
> enough probably not to offend.
...Don't be too sure... :) Actually, it would be far more appropriate
in alt.home.repair or some such...
...snip description of 8' foot closet door....
> I suspect that you can't just toenail a couple 2x4's in the center to the
> floor and header and work from there. Can anyone tell me the proper
> installation of such a post? I'd rather have the openings free of any kind
> of bracing blocks etc on the floor.
Don't see why not although you'll probably need more like 6" or so to
make the trim out look "not too skinny" visually.
A little more work but more solid than the toenailing would be to make a
pocket for the support to sit in. To do both ends would require being
able to either cheat just a little on the header by adding a thin piece
on the surface on either side to create the pocket or boring clear on
through to be able to insert both ends or making a built-up piece in
place. You could also pocket the floor end and inset a couple angle
brackets at the top if you have no extra clearance or ...there are
almost an infinite number of variations on how to skin this particular
cat.
Fly-by-Night CC wrote:
>
...
> Right - the load of what's above the opening is already taken into
> account with whatever's under the sheetrock. Pull the old door track,
> "X" the carpet and pad and put in your new post.
The load to be concerned about isn't vertical, it's the side load of
what could <possibly> be a fairly heavy door...
I should note that OP shouldn't cut through the whole bottom of the
header if he does decide on the inset pocket route...
[email protected] wrote:
>
> >
> > Don't see why not although you'll probably need more like 6" or so to
> > make the trim out look "not too skinny" visually.
> >
>
> ahh it becomes clear to me now. with 6" it's easy enough to just build a
> tiny wall and nail the plates firmly to the floor and header. perhaps
> overbuilt but it's cheap enough not to care. That will certainly support
> the weight of the doors hung on jambs attached to the outer (in this case
> only) studs of the "wall". A couple of firestop kinda pieces and it will be
> solid as a rock.
...
Sketch it out the way you envision it to see how it looks before commit
to sawing...but, as you note, there's still another way for the cat...
Remember to double up the two outer jamb studs for sufficient stiffness
or block in between sufficiently so it won't bow over time....
>
> Don't see why not although you'll probably need more like 6" or so to
> make the trim out look "not too skinny" visually.
>
ahh it becomes clear to me now. with 6" it's easy enough to just build a
tiny wall and nail the plates firmly to the floor and header. perhaps
overbuilt but it's cheap enough not to care. That will certainly support
the weight of the doors hung on jambs attached to the outer (in this case
only) studs of the "wall". A couple of firestop kinda pieces and it will be
solid as a rock.
thanks for the help!
cheers
ml
> What I am considering is adding a post in the center of the opening
> and using two sets of double doors. I would lose a bit of closet
> space from the post but I think it would look great from the room and
> I can deal with the space loss.
If you'll be covering the post with sheetrock and/or wood trim, you could
probably use a couple of metal post brackets to strongly fasten each end of
the post. Check out the metal brackets at any home center where the joist
hangers are located. You'll surely find something you can use.
Anthony
In article <[email protected]>,
Duane Bozarth <[email protected]> wrote:
> > I suspect that you can't just toenail a couple 2x4's in the center to the
> > floor and header and work from there. Can anyone tell me the proper
> > installation of such a post? I'd rather have the openings free of any kind
> > of bracing blocks etc on the floor.
>
> Don't see why not although you'll probably need more like 6" or so to
> make the trim out look "not too skinny" visually.
Right - the load of what's above the opening is already taken into
account with whatever's under the sheetrock. Pull the old door track,
"X" the carpet and pad and put in your new post.
--
Owen Lowe
The Fly-by-Night Copper Company
____
"I pledge allegiance to the flag of the
Corporate States of America and to the
Republicans for which it stands, one nation,
under debt, easily divisible, with liberty
and justice for oil."
- Wiley Miller, Non Sequitur, 1/24/05