I'm finishing a small chest I made from cherry and want to use tung oil. On
the inside, should I give it a couple of coats of shellac as a sealer?
I'm using a pair of my jockey's to apply the tung oil. How long should I
wait before I wear them again. A little spontaneous combustion may not be a
bad thing ;)
--
Ed
[email protected]
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
On Tue, 26 Aug 2003 23:26:20 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I'm finishing a small chest I made from cherry and want to use tung oil. On
>the inside, should I give it a couple of coats of shellac as a sealer?
Good idea, if you're not oiling the inside.
Use a brush for inside corners of boxes, not a pad. Synthetic
watercolour brushes and fibres like "Golden Taklon" are best for
shellac.
>I'm using a pair of my jockey's to apply the tung oil.
Jockeys are OK for oil, but use boxer shorts for shellac. Longer
staple cotton, and they wear better.
If you use them dirty, you can easily darken the oil if you feel tithe color
needs an adjustment.
"Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm finishing a small chest I made from cherry and want to use tung oil.
On
> the inside, should I give it a couple of coats of shellac as a sealer?
>
> I'm using a pair of my jockey's to apply the tung oil. How long should I
> wait before I wear them again. A little spontaneous combustion may not be
a
> bad thing ;)
> --
> Ed
> [email protected]
> http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
>
>
>
On Tue, 26 Aug 2003 23:26:20 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I'm finishing a small chest I made from cherry and want to use tung oil. On
>the inside, should I give it a couple of coats of shellac as a sealer?
Just curious, Ed...why aren't you gonna do the entire chest the same
way?
I'll be curious as to the answers you get. I'm putting in a bunch of
replacement windows...and I'm gonna tung oil the frames that I built.
I'm wondering if I should put a coat of poly on them.
>I'm using a pair of my jockey's to apply the tung oil. How long should I
>wait before I wear them again. A little spontaneous combustion may not be a
>bad thing ;)
Can't help you here, Ed. I usually use Kotex for the main areas...and
a Tampax for the inside corners. But, hey...that's just me.
Have a nice week...
Trent
Cat...the OTHER white meat!
"Trent©" <[email protected]> wrote in message >
> >I'm finishing a small chest I made from cherry and want to use tung oil.
On
> >the inside, should I give it a couple of coats of shellac as a sealer?
>
> Just curious, Ed...why aren't you gonna do the entire chest the same
> way?
I figure the outside will be nice with just the oil. I'm concerned that the
inside may weep or the contents pick up something from the oil. That is why
I thought of sealing with shellac. If other's experience proves otherwise,
I'll use tung oil only.
Ed
"47Driver" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> I have been using a coat or two of tung oil, letting it dry. Then a
couple
> of coats of super blonde shellac. Nice depth and easy to do.
>
> Ken Gunter
>
I'm going to try it on a small piece to see how it looks. Even if I don't
do the chest that way, I'll know for the future.
Thanks,
Ed
"Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
<snip>
>I figure the outside will be nice with just the oil. I'm concerned
that the
> inside may weep or the contents pick up something from the oil. That is why
> I thought of sealing with shellac. If other's experience proves otherwise,
> I'll use tung oil only.
> Ed
Tung oil does cure. I find it dry to the touch within 1 day in my
typical thin coat approach (wipe-off). I've read it takes several
weeks to fully cure. So I wouldn't worry about weeping. The smell
does linger a while, so absorbent items in a closed box could pick up
a scent. I don't find the smell offensive, but wouldn't necessarily
want people to think it's a cologne I'm wearing either ;-)
If it's a small box you could use polymerized tung oil. It's much
pricier, but builds much faster and is much more durable according to
Jewitt's book. I find it has less odor too. It cures very rapidly,
really need to wipe off in 10 minutes, if you wait 30 minutes it's
pretty sticky.
On Tue, 26 Aug 2003 16:49:20 -0700, "MSH" <mnd@jaacom> wrote:
>If you use them dirty, you can easily darken the oil if you feel tithe color
>needs an adjustment.
I've just been reading Bill Knight & Bill Mende's work on 18th century
muzzle-loading rifles. After treating raw powder horns with verdigris
(copper acetate) as a preservative, they were bright green (hence
"green horns"). A final colouring was done by "dunging" them (burial
in a midden), or else by applying extracted Manure Salts.
I have been using a coat or two of tung oil, letting it dry. Then a couple
of coats of super blonde shellac. Nice depth and easy to do.
Ken Gunter
CH-47D Chinook Pilot
http://www.ch47.org
[email protected]
"Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm finishing a small chest I made from cherry and want to use tung oil.
On
> the inside, should I give it a couple of coats of shellac as a sealer?
>
> I'm using a pair of my jockey's to apply the tung oil. How long should I
> wait before I wear them again. A little spontaneous combustion may not be
a
> bad thing ;)
> --
> Ed
> [email protected]
> http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
>
>
>