Do doors ALWAYS stick in the winter when it is cold and dry? This is
contrary to what I would have predicted. I think it would be the other way
around. The wood of the door itself, with the grain pointing up/down I
thought would shrink inwards, and the rough-out framing wouldn't move,
because the grain, running side to side, would not be affected as much. But
I have done doors before, and they seem to stick not when it would otherwise
be expected.
The substance of answer to the above question is not necessary. However, I
do need a practical solution to the following problem. I have 4 doors I
have hung by myself into 2x4" rought out with mdf jambs. I thought I had
given myself enough of a gap for expansion, etc. I am totally surprised,
but after using bondo, shellac, primer, and now one of possibly two coats of
oil paint I no longer have enough gap. I have to trim the edges of the
doors. This I can do with a power sander as they are hanging and I can just
swing them over to check for fit. But how much to sand, now that all I have
left to think about is temp & humidity. There seems to be enough gap still
on some corners, but it has disappeared at others. It is spring here in
Toronto, and I can only guess at the peak of the dryness. But since I
cannot reason what is going on, I have a hard time knowing what to do
because my intuition and experience tell me completely opposite.
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It has just turned spring, so its the end of the long dry winter. Also a
curiosity, what I am after is what others have noticed w/r/t doors sticking:
winter, or summer.
Then I can go ahead with these corners gone wonky based on whether I am
tight or loose now. Good news is I can get the gap perfect. I'm capable if
I know what I'm doing - I ain't gonna do it and have anyhting touching
anywhere ever, ir I can (just).
Is there a problem with (oil) paint sticking? Maybe during a hot sticky
summer. I've got the hinges set. But if I sandwich (pinch) the inner sides
paint to paint tightly (zero or negative gap) am I in danger of the (oil)
paint sticking ever?
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"bent" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Do doors ALWAYS stick in the winter when it is cold and dry? This is
> contrary to what I would have predicted. I think it would be the other
> way around. The wood of the door itself, with the grain pointing up/down
> I thought would shrink inwards, and the rough-out framing wouldn't move,
> because the grain, running side to side, would not be affected as much.
> But I have done doors before, and they seem to stick not when it would
> otherwise be expected.
>
Dry doesn't stick. Wet sticks, shifting frames stick, loose screws in the
hinges from dry wood contracting stick....
An old carpenter's rule of thumb: a dime on the sides and a
nickel on the top.
Commercial doors are thicker. The point of beginning is to bevel
both the strike and hinge side of the door with a 3 to 5^ bevel.
The door dimension on the wide face of the door should be about a
quarter inch smaller than the jamb face to face dimension (wide
face of door 35 3/4" in a 36" jamb). This is the tolerance and
fit of steel and Formica clad doors hung in steel frames.
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
[email protected]
"bent" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Do doors ALWAYS stick in the winter when it is cold and dry?
> This is contrary to what I would have predicted. I think it
> would be the other way around. The wood of the door itself,
> with the grain pointing up/down I thought would shrink inwards,
> and the rough-out framing wouldn't move, because the grain,
> running side to side, would not be affected as much. But I have
> done doors before, and they seem to stick not when it would
> otherwise be expected.
>
> The substance of answer to the above question is not necessary.
> However, I do need a practical solution to the following
> problem. I have 4 doors I have hung by myself into 2x4" rought
> out with mdf jambs. I thought I had given myself enough of a
> gap for expansion, etc. I am totally surprised, but after using
> bondo, shellac, primer, and now one of possibly two coats of oil
> paint I no longer have enough gap. I have to trim the edges of
> the doors. This I can do with a power sander as they are
> hanging and I can just swing them over to check for fit. But
> how much to sand, now that all I have left to think about is
> temp & humidity. There seems to be enough gap still on some
> corners, but it has disappeared at others. It is spring here in
> Toronto, and I can only guess at the peak of the dryness. But
> since I cannot reason what is going on, I have a hard time
> knowing what to do because my intuition and experience tell me
> completely opposite.
>
>
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> Usenet News==----
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