I'm getting ready to do the exterior walls in my garage (workshop)
here in the Portsmouth, NH area. I'm going to use R-19 exterior (2x6
walls) for the insulation. But I was thinking, they have this silver
pegboard at HD that would be kind of cool to use. My question is how
much of a loss would I suffer if I JUST used the pegboard and skipped
the sheetrock (1/2") altogether? The garage will be heated. The
dimensions are 20x20x11 and it is new construction.
Thanks in advance.
-Jim
Why not put up the drywall, prime & or pain tit, then use nuts (spacers) to
mount partial sheets of pegboard. You need a little gap to re&re the
hangers of all types. I have extras. Theres 2 standards, and I garbage
pick hangers all the time. Sams as all stores. Proportion sheets, orient,
and space on walls to suit each or all. I did it in my garage. Besides,
aligning the holes with spacers with whole sheets is tricky. I have third
sheets with 1-1/2" between them. Doesn't take too many screws/bolts .
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On Dec 3, 2:40 pm, jtpr <[email protected]> wrote:
> I'm getting ready to do the exterior walls in my garage (workshop)
> here in the Portsmouth, NH area. I'm going to use R-19 exterior (2x6
> walls) for the insulation. But I was thinking, they have this silver
> pegboard at HD that would be kind of cool to use. My question is how
> much of a loss would I suffer if I JUST used the pegboard and skipped
> the sheetrock (1/2") altogether? The garage will be heated. The
> dimensions are 20x20x11 and it is new construction.
>
>
As others have noted, the fire and draft resistance of drywall are
quite
important.
A proper moisture barrier is important as drywall will pass water
vapor
and absorb condensate, becoming gummy and stinky over time.
Interestingly, much of the fire resistance is due to water chemically
bound
in the plaster. When heated, the water escapes which carries energy
away from the drywall, cooling it.
--
FF
"J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> In a wood shop I think you'll find that fiberglass behind pegboard is
> a continuing annoyance--pegboard holds amazing amounts of sawdust that
> comes out at inconvenient moments, so does fiberglass. The two
> together, well you may end up needing to put up another building in
> which to apply finishes.
>
That's something I can speak to. 1/3 of my garage is pegboard over
insulation. That's were my shop area is. The other two bays are sheetrock.
It's been this way for almost 15 years. I paint cars in those other two
bays and I've never had an issue with sawdust.
It might well be argued that sheetrock would have sealed over my insulation
better than the pegboard does, but in Central NY where the winters are cold
and blustery, I've never noticed any real shortcoming with what I have.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On Dec 3, 9:40 am, jtpr <[email protected]> wrote:
> I'm getting ready to do the exterior walls in my garage (workshop)
> here in the Portsmouth, NH area. I'm going to use R-19 exterior (2x6
> walls) for the insulation. But I was thinking, they have this silver
> pegboard at HD that would be kind of cool to use. My question is how
> much of a loss would I suffer if I JUST used the pegboard and skipped
> the sheetrock (1/2") altogether? The garage will be heated. The
> dimensions are 20x20x11 and it is new construction.
>
> Thanks in advance.
> -Jim
Could you and should you are two different things.
The biggest benefit of sheetrock is to protect the plastic vapor
barrier. So if you put up peg board the punch through the plastic
(and you will at some time), you let the moisture in and it will
condense in the insulation.
On Dec 3, 11:40 am, "bent" <[email protected]> wrote:
"pain tit"?
Maybe you should have that looked at...
On Dec 3, 7:54 am, "efgh" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
>
>
> > "jtpr" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >news:1aa44fa5-97d2-47e2-b69e-5530c5ef68e3@w28g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
> >> I'm getting ready to do the exterior walls in my garage (workshop)
> >> here in the Portsmouth, NH area. I'm going to use R-19 exterior (2x6
> >> walls) for the insulation. But I was thinking, they have this silver
> >> pegboard at HD that would be kind of cool to use. My question is how
> >> much of a loss would I suffer if I JUST used the pegboard and skipped
> >> the sheetrock (1/2") altogether? The garage will be heated. The
> >> dimensions are 20x20x11 and it is new construction.
>
> >> Thanks in advance.
> >> -Jim
>
> > Sheet rock is normally taped and or sealed at the seams. Normally
> > installed sheet rock will certainly cut down of drafts over pegboard
> > alone.
>
> I would think the fire retardation of sheetrock would be a good benefit over
> the pegboard as well.
And in some places the sheetrock will be required by code, for fire
prevention purposes.
Doing things to code will be important when you eventually sell the
place.
On Dec 3, 8:40 am, jtpr <[email protected]> wrote:
> I'm getting ready to do the exterior walls in my garage (workshop)
> here in the Portsmouth, NH area. I'm going to use R-19 exterior (2x6
> walls) for the insulation. But I was thinking, they have this silver
> pegboard at HD that would be kind of cool to use. My question is how
> much of a loss would I suffer if I JUST used the pegboard and skipped
> the sheetrock (1/2") altogether? The garage will be heated. The
> dimensions are 20x20x11 and it is new construction.
>
> Thanks in advance.
> -Jim
R value for drywall is about 0.5 for thicknesses between 1/2 and 5/8.
DonkeyHody
"In theory, theory and practice are the same, but in practice they are
not."
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "jtpr" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:1aa44fa5-97d2-47e2-b69e-5530c5ef68e3@w28g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
>> I'm getting ready to do the exterior walls in my garage (workshop)
>> here in the Portsmouth, NH area. I'm going to use R-19 exterior (2x6
>> walls) for the insulation. But I was thinking, they have this silver
>> pegboard at HD that would be kind of cool to use. My question is how
>> much of a loss would I suffer if I JUST used the pegboard and skipped
>> the sheetrock (1/2") altogether? The garage will be heated. The
>> dimensions are 20x20x11 and it is new construction.
>>
>> Thanks in advance.
>> -Jim
>
> Sheet rock is normally taped and or sealed at the seams. Normally
> installed sheet rock will certainly cut down of drafts over pegboard
> alone.
I would think the fire retardation of sheetrock would be a good benefit over
the pegboard as well.
Jim,
I have used peg board over sheet rock. I wanted the fire retarding
aspect. ONE KEY POINT. This approach requires theat the peg board be spaced
off the sheet rock !!!!
Paul
"jtpr" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:1aa44fa5-97d2-47e2-b69e-5530c5ef68e3@w28g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
> I'm getting ready to do the exterior walls in my garage (workshop)
> here in the Portsmouth, NH area. I'm going to use R-19 exterior (2x6
> walls) for the insulation. But I was thinking, they have this silver
> pegboard at HD that would be kind of cool to use. My question is how
> much of a loss would I suffer if I JUST used the pegboard and skipped
> the sheetrock (1/2") altogether? The garage will be heated. The
> dimensions are 20x20x11 and it is new construction.
>
> Thanks in advance.
> -Jim
On Dec 3, 9:40 am, jtpr <[email protected]> wrote:
> I'm getting ready to do the exterior walls in my garage (workshop)
> here in the Portsmouth, NH area. I'm going to use R-19 exterior (2x6
> walls) for the insulation. But I was thinking, they have this silver
> pegboard at HD that would be kind of cool to use. My question is how
> much of a loss would I suffer if I JUST used the pegboard and skipped
> the sheetrock (1/2") altogether? The garage will be heated. The
> dimensions are 20x20x11 and it is new construction.
Sheet rock is easy to repair. If you have a working shop,
you'll be moving tool boards around as you upgrade.
jtpr wrote:
> I'm getting ready to do the exterior walls in my garage (workshop)
> here in the Portsmouth, NH area. I'm going to use R-19 exterior
> (2x6
> walls) for the insulation. But I was thinking, they have this
> silver
> pegboard at HD that would be kind of cool to use. My question is
> how
> much of a loss would I suffer if I JUST used the pegboard and
> skipped
> the sheetrock (1/2") altogether? The garage will be heated. The
> dimensions are 20x20x11 and it is new construction.
The sheetrock per se doesn't have much R value, but it serves to seal
the inner surface of the wall, thus creates a closed air cavity in
which convention is suppressed by the fiberglass, so by not using it
you may lose more than you would expect just from the R value of the
sheetrock.
In a wood shop I think you'll find that fiberglass behind pegboard is
a continuing annoyance--pegboard holds amazing amounts of sawdust that
comes out at inconvenient moments, so does fiberglass. The two
together, well you may end up needing to put up another building in
which to apply finishes.
> Thanks in advance.
> -Jim
--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
Kate wrote:
> "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote
> The sheetrock per se doesn't have much R value, but it serves to seal
> the inner surface of the wall, thus creates a closed air cavity in
> which convention is suppressed by the fiberglass, so by not using it
> you may lose more than you would expect just from the R value of the
> sheetrock.
>
>
> It's interesting you should say that.
> It's been explained to me that in fire-resistant safes, such as gun safes,
> that several layers of sheetrock are used to protect the interior of the
> unit.
>
> Now, exactly what kind of sheetrock it is, I have no idea.
> Don't even know if it's true.
>
> If it were my garage I'd insulate it AND sheetrock it all the way around
> using a double layer of sheetrock between the garage and the dwelling for
> fire retardation.
> As I recall it's required in Callyfornee.
>
> My garage is NOT insulated but is finished on all the walls and ceiling with
> masonite type siding. It's colder than a witche's tit out there right now. I
> wish it was heated and insulated.
> Maybe someday we'll pull it down and do just that.
>
You don't necessarily need to pull it
down. In my house, I was renovating and
insulating the walls in the living room.
I briefly thought of drilling holes and
blowing insulation, but eventually
decided I couldn't stand the wall
material and pulled it down and hung
drywall.
If it had been a garage, I'd have just
drilled and blown the insulation in.
--
Tanus
This is not really a sig.
http://www.home.mycybernet.net/~waugh/shop/
"jtpr" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:1aa44fa5-97d2-47e2-b69e-5530c5ef68e3@w28g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
> I'm getting ready to do the exterior walls in my garage (workshop)
> here in the Portsmouth, NH area. I'm going to use R-19 exterior (2x6
> walls) for the insulation. But I was thinking, they have this silver
> pegboard at HD that would be kind of cool to use. My question is how
> much of a loss would I suffer if I JUST used the pegboard and skipped
> the sheetrock (1/2") altogether? The garage will be heated. The
> dimensions are 20x20x11 and it is new construction.
>
> Thanks in advance.
> -Jim
'Rock may be required by code if it's in a garage, because it doesn't burn
well.
"Tanus" <[email protected]> wrote
You don't necessarily need to pull it
down. In my house, I was renovating and
insulating the walls in the living room.
I briefly thought of drilling holes and
blowing insulation, but eventually
decided I couldn't stand the wall
material and pulled it down and hung
drywall.
If it had been a garage, I'd have just
drilled and blown the insulation in.
--
Tanus
This is not really a sig.
http://www.home.mycybernet.net/~waugh/shop/
On the inside, our garage is nicely finished.
To drill and patch holes in the material that's there would be a giant gob
of ugly.
I'd rather just pop it off and put it back up again.
Kate
"J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote
The sheetrock per se doesn't have much R value, but it serves to seal
the inner surface of the wall, thus creates a closed air cavity in
which convention is suppressed by the fiberglass, so by not using it
you may lose more than you would expect just from the R value of the
sheetrock.
It's interesting you should say that.
It's been explained to me that in fire-resistant safes, such as gun safes,
that several layers of sheetrock are used to protect the interior of the
unit.
Now, exactly what kind of sheetrock it is, I have no idea.
Don't even know if it's true.
If it were my garage I'd insulate it AND sheetrock it all the way around
using a double layer of sheetrock between the garage and the dwelling for
fire retardation.
As I recall it's required in Callyfornee.
My garage is NOT insulated but is finished on all the walls and ceiling with
masonite type siding. It's colder than a witche's tit out there right now. I
wish it was heated and insulated.
Maybe someday we'll pull it down and do just that.
--
Kate
______
/l ,[____],
l-L -OlllllllO-
()_)-()_)--)_)
The shortest distance between two points,
is a lot more fun in a Jeep!
"jtpr" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:1aa44fa5-97d2-47e2-b69e-5530c5ef68e3@w28g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
> I'm getting ready to do the exterior walls in my garage (workshop)
> here in the Portsmouth, NH area. I'm going to use R-19 exterior (2x6
> walls) for the insulation. But I was thinking, they have this silver
> pegboard at HD that would be kind of cool to use. My question is how
> much of a loss would I suffer if I JUST used the pegboard and skipped
> the sheetrock (1/2") altogether? The garage will be heated. The
> dimensions are 20x20x11 and it is new construction.
>
> Thanks in advance.
> -Jim
Sheet rock is normally taped and or sealed at the seams. Normally installed
sheet rock will certainly cut down of drafts over pegboard alone.