I hope to be ready by this weekend to start applying finish to the rustic bed
I'm building for my daughter. Mostly quarter-sawn Douglas fir.
This is the first dry fit:
http://i.imgur.com/0uJlvUf.jpg
I think I want to use a gel stain and possible a gel final finish mainly
because wiping something "thick" onto these big pieces sounds easier than
any kind of brush on/runny finish. I'm really limited on space and spraying
is not an option.
I'm not looking to change the color too much, maybe darken it just a little
and bring out some of the red. Any and all suggestions are welcome, including
comments on stain-sealers if required and what to use as a final finish.
The simpler the better, I'm a real novice when it comes to finishing.
Thanks!
On Tuesday, September 13, 2016 at 12:49:25 PM UTC-4, dadiOH wrote:
> "SWMBO" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > On 9/12/16, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >
> >> I hope to be ready by this weekend to start applying finish to the rustic
> >> bed
> >> I'm building for my daughter. Mostly quarter-sawn Douglas fir.
> >>
> >> This is the first dry fit:
> >>
> >> http://i.imgur.com/0uJlvUf.jpg
> >>
> >> I think I want to use a gel stain and possible a gel final finish mainly
> >> because wiping something "thick" onto these big pieces sounds easier than
> >> any kind of brush on/runny finish. I'm really limited on space and
> >> spraying
> >> is not an option.
> >>
> >> I'm not looking to change the color too much, maybe darken it just a
> >> little
> >> and bring out some of the red. Any and all suggestions are welcome,
> >> including
> >> comments on stain-sealers if required and what to use as a final finish.
> >> The simpler the better, I'm a real novice when it comes to finishing.
> >>
> >> Thanks!
> >
> > OMG|No offense intended but my daughter Brittany
> > is a far more skilled woodworker than you r. In her
> > first video tutorial she builds a cute functional end
> > table <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ENqg-jX-6s> she
> > would never use splitted lumber as you did on the
> > bottom horizontal headboard piece. Shoddy!
>
> Good for her. Lucky girl to have a daddy to buy her perfect boards, no
> matter that the split board will be behind a mattress.
...and stealthily secured to prevent further splitting.
Maybe she missed the word "rustic".
(Thanks for the support.)
On Tuesday, September 13, 2016 at 12:04:27 PM UTC-4, SWMBO wrote:
> On 9/12/16, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>
> > I hope to be ready by this weekend to start applying finish to the rustic bed
> > I'm building for my daughter. Mostly quarter-sawn Douglas fir.
> >
> > This is the first dry fit:
> >
> > http://i.imgur.com/0uJlvUf.jpg
> >
> > I think I want to use a gel stain and possible a gel final finish mainly
> > because wiping something "thick" onto these big pieces sounds easier than
> > any kind of brush on/runny finish. I'm really limited on space and spraying
> > is not an option.
> >
> > I'm not looking to change the color too much, maybe darken it just a little
> > and bring out some of the red. Any and all suggestions are welcome, including
> > comments on stain-sealers if required and what to use as a final finish.
> > The simpler the better, I'm a real novice when it comes to finishing.
> >
> > Thanks!
>
> OMG|No offense intended but my daughter Brittany
> is a far more skilled woodworker than you r. In her
> first video tutorial she builds a cute functional end
> table <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ENqg-jX-6s> she
> would never use splitted lumber as you did on the
> bottom horizontal headboard piece. Shoddy!
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: [email protected] ---
I think I am far more amenable to the discreet use of a split board in a rustic creation than all the unending (and less than humorous) sexual innuendo being spewed in the video...really???
On Wednesday, September 14, 2016 at 9:54:29 AM UTC-4, dadiOH wrote:
> "DerbyDad03" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >I hope to be ready by this weekend to start applying finish to the rustic
> >bed
> > I'm building for my daughter. Mostly quarter-sawn Douglas fir.
> >
> > This is the first dry fit:
> >
> > http://i.imgur.com/0uJlvUf.jpg
> >
> > I think I want to use a gel stain and possible a gel final finish mainly
> > because wiping something "thick" onto these big pieces sounds easier than
> > any kind of brush on/runny finish. I'm really limited on space and
> > spraying
> > is not an option.
> >
> > I'm not looking to change the color too much, maybe darken it just a
> > little
> > and bring out some of the red. Any and all suggestions are welcome,
> > including
> > comments on stain-sealers if required and what to use as a final finish.
> > The simpler the better, I'm a real novice when it comes to finishing.
>
> I've been thinking about this. If it were me - and I know many would not
> agree - I'd just use oil. Reasons follow.
>
> 1. Your wood has been aging for 20 years and you haven't sanded it. Any
> clear top coat will exacerbate whatever roughness there is. I once saw a
> stair hand rail in an owner built log house that was so rough that he might
> as well have embedded shards of glass. I'm sure yours isn't that rough but
> is it rough enough after varnishing to snag sheets or blankets?
>
> 2. Oil is extremely easy to use and is close to fool proof. It IS fool
> proof as long as the surface is well wiped after applying.
>
> 3. IMO, oil is entirely satisfactory for your project. I sleep in a bed I
> made 30 years ago that was finished with oil. All drawers - there are
> many - had the insides finished with oil; if the drawer fronts don't show,
> they too were oiled; if exposed, lacquered just for show, not utility.
>
> If you want to consider oil, you have two choices: linseed or tung. Both
> will enhance the grain and color the wood. Over time, the tung changes very
> little; linseed darkens, how much depends upon how much was soaked up by the
> wood; if considerable - yours would - the darkening will also be accompanied
> by a shift toward red. Two to three coats of either would be sufficient. I
> thin either 50/50 with paint thinner, sometime more dilute (25/75) with
> tung..
>
> A variation on just oil would be one that includes a bit of varnish like
> Watco. Works like oil but doesn't build a surface layer (unless a LOT of
> coats are used).
Thanks for the suggestion. I'll do some research on this.
I hope others will (politely) voice their opinion on this matter. The
shift towards red with linseed oil might be desirable although the use
of the words "over time" might be considered less than precise. ;-)
Are we talking months, years or decades?
A trip down memory lane...
I once worked for an IT director at a Fortune 500 company. Phrases like
"Oh, it won't take very long" or "It will cost a lot of money" would
result in a lecture - one time. The next time a project manager used a
phrase like that typically meant that the odds were very good that they
wouldn't be managing any more projects for her. In general, she was not
a fun person to work for. ;-)
On Tuesday, September 13, 2016 at 11:37:37 AM UTC-4, dadiOH wrote:
> "DerbyDad03" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > On Tuesday, September 13, 2016 at 8:52:18 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
> >> On 9/12/2016 10:31 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >> > I hope to be ready by this weekend to start applying finish to the
> >> > rustic bed
> >> > I'm building for my daughter. Mostly quarter-sawn Douglas fir.
> >> >
> >> > This is the first dry fit:
> >> >
> >> > http://i.imgur.com/0uJlvUf.jpg
> >> >
> >> > I think I want to use a gel stain and possible a gel final finish
> >> > mainly
> >> > because wiping something "thick" onto these big pieces sounds easier
> >> > than
> >> > any kind of brush on/runny finish. I'm really limited on space and
> >> > spraying
> >> > is not an option.
> >> >
> >> > I'm not looking to change the color too much, maybe darken it just a
> >> > little
> >> > and bring out some of the red. Any and all suggestions are welcome,
> >> > including
> >> > comments on stain-sealers if required and what to use as a final
> >> > finish.
> >> > The simpler the better, I'm a real novice when it comes to finishing.
> >> >
> >> > Thanks!
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> >> Well I will say that different gel stains work differently. Mostly you
> >> wipe them on and immediately wipe it off, and after wiping of, buff out,
> >> with a cleaner cloth, to get rid of smudges.
> >>
> >> If you want to just darken a little the varnish might be enough and a
> >> lot less work.
> >>
> >> TEST on scraps.
> >
> > Will varnish bring out any of the red? I sure wouldn't mind "a lot less
> > work". ;-)
>
> It will if you add a bit of universal tint to it :)
>
> Without it (tint), it will appear yellower and darker. The wood will also
> darken with or without varnish and/or stain over time and exposure to light;
> if you want to retard that, use a top coat with an UV inhibitor in it.
I am hoping that the wood has already attained it's steady state as far as
color.
The vast majority of this wood, as in *all* of the headboard board slats
and uprights has been lying around in it's current condition (S4S) for
about 20 years. It was originally reclaimed and then cut/surfaced to be
used as door and window trim in a post and beam house. For various reasons
it never got used and the owner put it on Craigslist at almost the exact
same time as my daughter said "Dad, can you build me a rustic bed from
reclaimed wood?" Can you say "serendipity"? ;-)
The rails were the only rough lumber that needed to be planed down. You can
see the totally different grain pattern in the rails vs. the quartersawn
pieces.
On Tuesday, September 13, 2016 at 12:43:45 PM UTC-4, Trenbidia wrote:
> On Tue, 13 Sep 2016 09:39:48 -0700, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>
> > I am hoping that the wood has already attained it's steady state as far
> > as color.
>
> Not unless it's completely black - or very dark brown. But depending on
> the environment, the finish, and the wood species, that might take 100
> years or more - or less :-).
Well, it is black where the old spikes were pulled out. ;-)
Left headboard upright, right hand side of front rail. There are a few
others. It's actually pretty cool to have the holes/discoloration.
On Tuesday, September 13, 2016 at 9:18:18 AM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
> On 09/12/2016 10:31 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > I hope to be ready by this weekend to start applying finish to the rustic bed
> > I'm building for my daughter. Mostly quarter-sawn Douglas fir.
> >
> > This is the first dry fit:
> >
> > http://i.imgur.com/0uJlvUf.jpg
> >
> > I think I want to use a gel stain and possible a gel final finish mainly
> > because wiping something "thick" onto these big pieces sounds easier than
> > any kind of brush on/runny finish. I'm really limited on space and spraying
> > is not an option.
> >
> > I'm not looking to change the color too much, maybe darken it just a little
> > and bring out some of the red. Any and all suggestions are welcome, including
> > comments on stain-sealers if required and what to use as a final finish.
> > The simpler the better, I'm a real novice when it comes to finishing.
>
> On the fir you'll want to use a sanding sealer first (cut shellac) to
> avoid the otherwise inevitable blotching of the difference in takeup of
> any stain/finish Doug fir is bad about.
>
> I'd probably just use a wiping varnish and protect the glue spaces with
> blue tape and finish at least first coat before assembly.
Just to be clear: If I use a wiping varnish do I still use a sanding
sealer or is that just for stain?
>
> Just as a thought if you've not; I'd also strongly recommend either
> rounding over or (I think it'd look better with) chamfer those hard
> square edges--otherwise it's going to accumulate a lot of dents and
> dings and there will be many "ouches" I foresee in the future...
Yes, that is the plan. My daughter has requested a very light roundover
as opposed to the 1/4" (?) I did on the bunk beds I built for her many
years ago. I think I've settled on a light hand sanding vs. even a 1/8"
round over bit. At least that's what SWMBO says to do. ;-)
>
> Nicely executed...
Thanks. I was limited as to what I could do because the reclaimed wood was
already "cut to size" for the most part. A couple of the uprights for the
headboard had to be ripped down, which exposed a totally different side
grain pattern than the face. I ripped very thin strips of side grain from
other pieces and glued them on, creating a uniform look on the sides and
faces.
On Tuesday, September 13, 2016 at 8:52:18 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
> On 9/12/2016 10:31 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > I hope to be ready by this weekend to start applying finish to the rustic bed
> > I'm building for my daughter. Mostly quarter-sawn Douglas fir.
> >
> > This is the first dry fit:
> >
> > http://i.imgur.com/0uJlvUf.jpg
> >
> > I think I want to use a gel stain and possible a gel final finish mainly
> > because wiping something "thick" onto these big pieces sounds easier than
> > any kind of brush on/runny finish. I'm really limited on space and spraying
> > is not an option.
> >
> > I'm not looking to change the color too much, maybe darken it just a little
> > and bring out some of the red. Any and all suggestions are welcome, including
> > comments on stain-sealers if required and what to use as a final finish.
> > The simpler the better, I'm a real novice when it comes to finishing.
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
>
>
> Well I will say that different gel stains work differently. Mostly you
> wipe them on and immediately wipe it off, and after wiping of, buff out,
> with a cleaner cloth, to get rid of smudges.
>
> If you want to just darken a little the varnish might be enough and a
> lot less work.
>
> TEST on scraps.
Will varnish bring out any of the red? I sure wouldn't mind "a lot less
work". ;-)
I have a sample board that I'll try to post an image of later, but I don't
know how the color will come out via my cell phone then uploading. There was
one stain that I had lying around that brought out the red and that my
daughter liked.
On 9/12/2016 10:31 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> I hope to be ready by this weekend to start applying finish to the rustic bed
> I'm building for my daughter. Mostly quarter-sawn Douglas fir.
>
> This is the first dry fit:
>
> http://i.imgur.com/0uJlvUf.jpg
>
> I think I want to use a gel stain and possible a gel final finish mainly
> because wiping something "thick" onto these big pieces sounds easier than
> any kind of brush on/runny finish. I'm really limited on space and spraying
> is not an option.
>
> I'm not looking to change the color too much, maybe darken it just a little
> and bring out some of the red. Any and all suggestions are welcome, including
> comments on stain-sealers if required and what to use as a final finish.
> The simpler the better, I'm a real novice when it comes to finishing.
>
> Thanks!
>
Well I will say that different gel stains work differently. Mostly you
wipe them on and immediately wipe it off, and after wiping of, buff out,
with a cleaner cloth, to get rid of smudges.
If you want to just darken a little the varnish might be enough and a
lot less work.
TEST on scraps.
On 9/13/2016 5:18 PM, SWMBO wrote:
> On 9/13/2016 4:03 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
>
>> On 9/13/2016 3:39 PM, SWMBO wrote:
>>
>>> Here are a couple of rustic projects I made from old pallets.
>>> <https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/68/79/17/687917214d756f77245f5ed4673d53d3.jpg>
>>> <https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/564x/c4/db/0c/c4db0c4c1b31e9123966c72e958db2fa.jpg>
>>>
>>
>> I really like the second project. Do you have the plans?
>
> Sorry, it was a one off. I made this out of an old coffee table.
> <https://www.reddit.com/r/pics/comments/51d89e/i_made_this_out_of_an_old_coffee_table>
>
Nice work. It sure showcases your skills and ability to get the most
out of tools. Oh, I don't want to neglect your design ability too.
On 9/12/2016 10:31 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> I'm not looking to change the color too much, maybe darken it just a little
> and bring out some of the red. Any and all suggestions are welcome, including
> comments on stain-sealers if required and what to use as a final finish.
> The simpler the better, I'm a real novice when it comes to finishing.
Personally, and with fir, I would indeed use a heavy gel stain if you
must stain ... less likely to blotch and you won't need to use a
washcoat, IME.
Nothing wrong with keeping it natural. If going that route, I would
choose an oil based lacquer or varnish. Water based won't age as nicely
as oil based film finishes.
Above all, do some tests on some scrap before you take any Internet
advice ... there will be as many opinions as assholes on this. ;)
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
https://www.facebook.com/eWoodShop-206166666122228
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On 9/13/2016 9:47 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Tuesday, September 13, 2016 at 9:18:18 AM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
>> On 09/12/2016 10:31 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>> I hope to be ready by this weekend to start applying finish to the rustic bed
>>> I'm building for my daughter. Mostly quarter-sawn Douglas fir.
>>>
>>> This is the first dry fit:
>>>
>>> http://i.imgur.com/0uJlvUf.jpg
>>>
>>> I think I want to use a gel stain and possible a gel final finish mainly
>>> because wiping something "thick" onto these big pieces sounds easier than
>>> any kind of brush on/runny finish. I'm really limited on space and spraying
>>> is not an option.
>>>
>>> I'm not looking to change the color too much, maybe darken it just a little
>>> and bring out some of the red. Any and all suggestions are welcome, including
>>> comments on stain-sealers if required and what to use as a final finish.
>>> The simpler the better, I'm a real novice when it comes to finishing.
>>
>> On the fir you'll want to use a sanding sealer first (cut shellac) to
>> avoid the otherwise inevitable blotching of the difference in takeup of
>> any stain/finish Doug fir is bad about.
>>
>> I'd probably just use a wiping varnish and protect the glue spaces with
>> blue tape and finish at least first coat before assembly.
>
> Just to be clear: If I use a wiping varnish do I still use a sanding
> sealer or is that just for stain?
If just using clear varnish you do not need a sanding sealer.
On 9/13/2016 9:47 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Tuesday, September 13, 2016 at 8:52:18 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
>> On 9/12/2016 10:31 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>> I hope to be ready by this weekend to start applying finish to the rustic bed
>>> I'm building for my daughter. Mostly quarter-sawn Douglas fir.
>>>
>>> This is the first dry fit:
>>>
>>> http://i.imgur.com/0uJlvUf.jpg
>>>
>>> I think I want to use a gel stain and possible a gel final finish mainly
>>> because wiping something "thick" onto these big pieces sounds easier than
>>> any kind of brush on/runny finish. I'm really limited on space and spraying
>>> is not an option.
>>>
>>> I'm not looking to change the color too much, maybe darken it just a little
>>> and bring out some of the red. Any and all suggestions are welcome, including
>>> comments on stain-sealers if required and what to use as a final finish.
>>> The simpler the better, I'm a real novice when it comes to finishing.
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>>>
>>
>>
>> Well I will say that different gel stains work differently. Mostly you
>> wipe them on and immediately wipe it off, and after wiping of, buff out,
>> with a cleaner cloth, to get rid of smudges.
>>
>> If you want to just darken a little the varnish might be enough and a
>> lot less work.
>>
>> TEST on scraps.
>
> Will varnish bring out any of the red? I sure wouldn't mind "a lot less
> work". ;-)
It will enhance the natural color. Try on a scrap or dampen a spot with
water to get an idea of how much it will darken/change.
>
> I have a sample board that I'll try to post an image of later, but I don't
> know how the color will come out via my cell phone then uploading. There was
> one stain that I had lying around that brought out the red and that my
> daughter liked.
>
On 9/13/2016 11:04 AM, SWMBO wrote:
> On 9/12/16, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>
>> I hope to be ready by this weekend to start applying finish to the rustic bed
>> I'm building for my daughter. Mostly quarter-sawn Douglas fir.
>>
>> This is the first dry fit:
>>
>> http://i.imgur.com/0uJlvUf.jpg
>>
>> I think I want to use a gel stain and possible a gel final finish mainly
>> because wiping something "thick" onto these big pieces sounds easier than
>> any kind of brush on/runny finish. I'm really limited on space and spraying
>> is not an option.
>>
>> I'm not looking to change the color too much, maybe darken it just a little
>> and bring out some of the red. Any and all suggestions are welcome, including
>> comments on stain-sealers if required and what to use as a final finish.
>> The simpler the better, I'm a real novice when it comes to finishing.
>>
>> Thanks!
>
> OMG|No offense intended but my daughter Brittany
> is a far more skilled woodworker than you r. In her
> first video tutorial she builds a cute functional end
> table <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ENqg-jX-6s> she
> would never use splitted lumber as you did on the
> bottom horizontal headboard piece. Shoddy!
>
So show us what "you" do.
On 9/13/2016 3:39 PM, SWMBO wrote:
> Here are a couple of rustic projects I made from old pallets.
> <https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/68/79/17/687917214d756f77245f5ed4673d53d3.jpg>
> <https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/564x/c4/db/0c/c4db0c4c1b31e9123966c72e958db2fa.jpg>
>
I really like the second project. Do you have the plans?
On Tuesday, September 13, 2016 at 10:26:39 AM UTC-4, Swingman wrote:
> On 9/12/2016 10:31 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>
> > I'm not looking to change the color too much, maybe darken it just a little
> > and bring out some of the red. Any and all suggestions are welcome, including
> > comments on stain-sealers if required and what to use as a final finish.
> > The simpler the better, I'm a real novice when it comes to finishing.
>
> Personally, and with fir, I would indeed use a heavy gel stain if you
> must stain ... less likely to blotch and you won't need to use a
> washcoat, IME.
>
> Nothing wrong with keeping it natural. If going that route, I would
> choose an oil based lacquer or varnish. Water based won't age as nicely
> as oil based film finishes.
>
> Above all, do some tests on some scrap before you take any Internet
> advice ... there will be as many opinions as assholes on this. ;)
>
Thanks. I'll definitely do some testing. I like the thought of natural.
There is already a lot of variation in the colors and I'd like to retain
as much of that as possible. There is also exposed end grain, side grain,
face grain, etc. There is no way it will ever be uniform, so I might as
well take advantage of that.
On 09/12/2016 10:31 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> I hope to be ready by this weekend to start applying finish to the rustic bed
> I'm building for my daughter. Mostly quarter-sawn Douglas fir.
>
> This is the first dry fit:
>
> http://i.imgur.com/0uJlvUf.jpg
>
> I think I want to use a gel stain and possible a gel final finish mainly
> because wiping something "thick" onto these big pieces sounds easier than
> any kind of brush on/runny finish. I'm really limited on space and spraying
> is not an option.
>
> I'm not looking to change the color too much, maybe darken it just a little
> and bring out some of the red. Any and all suggestions are welcome, including
> comments on stain-sealers if required and what to use as a final finish.
> The simpler the better, I'm a real novice when it comes to finishing.
On the fir you'll want to use a sanding sealer first (cut shellac) to
avoid the otherwise inevitable blotching of the difference in takeup of
any stain/finish Doug fir is bad about.
I'd probably just use a wiping varnish and protect the glue spaces with
blue tape and finish at least first coat before assembly.
Just as a thought if you've not; I'd also strongly recommend either
rounding over or (I think it'd look better with) chamfer those hard
square edges--otherwise it's going to accumulate a lot of dents and
dings and there will be many "ouches" I foresee in the future...
Nicely executed...
"DerbyDad03" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Tuesday, September 13, 2016 at 8:52:18 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
>> On 9/12/2016 10:31 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>> > I hope to be ready by this weekend to start applying finish to the
>> > rustic bed
>> > I'm building for my daughter. Mostly quarter-sawn Douglas fir.
>> >
>> > This is the first dry fit:
>> >
>> > http://i.imgur.com/0uJlvUf.jpg
>> >
>> > I think I want to use a gel stain and possible a gel final finish
>> > mainly
>> > because wiping something "thick" onto these big pieces sounds easier
>> > than
>> > any kind of brush on/runny finish. I'm really limited on space and
>> > spraying
>> > is not an option.
>> >
>> > I'm not looking to change the color too much, maybe darken it just a
>> > little
>> > and bring out some of the red. Any and all suggestions are welcome,
>> > including
>> > comments on stain-sealers if required and what to use as a final
>> > finish.
>> > The simpler the better, I'm a real novice when it comes to finishing.
>> >
>> > Thanks!
>> >
>>
>>
>> Well I will say that different gel stains work differently. Mostly you
>> wipe them on and immediately wipe it off, and after wiping of, buff out,
>> with a cleaner cloth, to get rid of smudges.
>>
>> If you want to just darken a little the varnish might be enough and a
>> lot less work.
>>
>> TEST on scraps.
>
> Will varnish bring out any of the red? I sure wouldn't mind "a lot less
> work". ;-)
It will if you add a bit of universal tint to it :)
Without it (tint), it will appear yellower and darker. The wood will also
darken with or without varnish and/or stain over time and exposure to light;
if you want to retard that, use a top coat with an UV inhibitor in it.
"DerbyDad03" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Just to be clear: If I use a wiping varnish do I still use a sanding
> sealer or is that just for stain?
Depends. Do you want to minimize or accent grain? Varnish will maximize ;
if you want to minimize, use a water base sealer or clear coat, THEN
varnish.
BTW, you can wipe any varnish. Just thin 50/50 or so with thinner, get a
wad of cotton, wrap the cotton with a piece of old cotton sheet, dip in
varnish and wipe away.
On 9/12/16, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> I hope to be ready by this weekend to start applying finish to the rustic bed
> I'm building for my daughter. Mostly quarter-sawn Douglas fir.
>
> This is the first dry fit:
>
> http://i.imgur.com/0uJlvUf.jpg
>
> I think I want to use a gel stain and possible a gel final finish mainly
> because wiping something "thick" onto these big pieces sounds easier than
> any kind of brush on/runny finish. I'm really limited on space and spraying
> is not an option.
>
> I'm not looking to change the color too much, maybe darken it just a little
> and bring out some of the red. Any and all suggestions are welcome, including
> comments on stain-sealers if required and what to use as a final finish.
> The simpler the better, I'm a real novice when it comes to finishing.
>
> Thanks!
OMG|No offense intended but my daughter Brittany
is a far more skilled woodworker than you r. In her
first video tutorial she builds a cute functional end
table <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ENqg-jX-6s> she
would never use splitted lumber as you did on the
bottom horizontal headboard piece. Shoddy!
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On Tue, 13 Sep 2016 09:39:48 -0700, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> I am hoping that the wood has already attained it's steady state as far
> as color.
Not unless it's completely black - or very dark brown. But depending on
the environment, the finish, and the wood species, that might take 100
years or more - or less :-).
--
Nobody expects the Spanish Inquisition!
On Tue, 13 Sep 2016 11:44:15 -0400, dadiOH wrote:
> BTW, you can wipe any varnish. Just thin 50/50 or so with thinner, get
> a wad of cotton, wrap the cotton with a piece of old cotton sheet, dip
> in varnish and wipe away.
I've found that the cosmetic pads women use to remove makeup work better
than cotton. They don't compress like cotton. I use 2-4 wrapped in a
piece of old t-shirt.
--
When fascism comes to America, it will be wrapped in the flag and
carrying a cross.
"SWMBO" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 9/12/16, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>
>> I hope to be ready by this weekend to start applying finish to the rustic
>> bed
>> I'm building for my daughter. Mostly quarter-sawn Douglas fir.
>>
>> This is the first dry fit:
>>
>> http://i.imgur.com/0uJlvUf.jpg
>>
>> I think I want to use a gel stain and possible a gel final finish mainly
>> because wiping something "thick" onto these big pieces sounds easier than
>> any kind of brush on/runny finish. I'm really limited on space and
>> spraying
>> is not an option.
>>
>> I'm not looking to change the color too much, maybe darken it just a
>> little
>> and bring out some of the red. Any and all suggestions are welcome,
>> including
>> comments on stain-sealers if required and what to use as a final finish.
>> The simpler the better, I'm a real novice when it comes to finishing.
>>
>> Thanks!
>
> OMG|No offense intended but my daughter Brittany
> is a far more skilled woodworker than you r. In her
> first video tutorial she builds a cute functional end
> table <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ENqg-jX-6s> she
> would never use splitted lumber as you did on the
> bottom horizontal headboard piece. Shoddy!
Good for her. Lucky girl to have a daddy to buy her perfect boards, no
matter that the split board will be behind a matress.
On 9/13/16, Leon wrote:
>On 9/13/2016 11:04 AM, SWMBO wrote:
>> On 9/12/16, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>
>>> I hope to be ready by this weekend to start applying finish to the rustic bed
>>> I'm building for my daughter. Mostly quarter-sawn Douglas fir.
>>>
>>> This is the first dry fit:
>>>
>>> http://i.imgur.com/0uJlvUf.jpg
>>>
>>> I think I want to use a gel stain and possible a gel final finish mainly
>>> because wiping something "thick" onto these big pieces sounds easier than
>>> any kind of brush on/runny finish. I'm really limited on space and spraying
>>> is not an option.
>>>
>>> I'm not looking to change the color too much, maybe darken it just a little
>>> and bring out some of the red. Any and all suggestions are welcome, including
>>> comments on stain-sealers if required and what to use as a final finish.
>>> The simpler the better, I'm a real novice when it comes to finishing.
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>>
>> OMG|No offense intended but my daughter Brittany
>> is a far more skilled woodworker than you r. In her
>> first video tutorial she builds a cute functional end
>> table <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ENqg-jX-6s> she
>> would never use splitted lumber as you did on the
>> bottom horizontal headboard piece. Shoddy!
>>
>
>So show us what "you" do.
Here are a couple of rustic projects I made from old pallets.
<https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/68/79/17/687917214d756f77245f5ed4673d53d3.jpg>
<https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/564x/c4/db/0c/c4db0c4c1b31e9123966c72e958db2fa.jpg>
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On 9/13/2016 4:03 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
> On 9/13/2016 3:39 PM, SWMBO wrote:
>
> > Here are a couple of rustic projects I made from old pallets.
> > <https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/68/79/17/687917214d756f77245f5ed4673d53d3.jpg>
> > <https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/564x/c4/db/0c/c4db0c4c1b31e9123966c72e958db2fa.jpg>
> >
>
> I really like the second project. Do you have the plans?
Sorry, it was a one off. I made this out of an old coffee table.
<https://www.reddit.com/r/pics/comments/51d89e/i_made_this_out_of_an_old_coffee_table>
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On 09/13/2016 12:33 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
...
> Thanks. I'll definitely do some testing. I like the thought of natural.
> There is already a lot of variation in the colors and I'd like to retain
> as much of that as possible. There is also exposed end grain, side grain,
> face grain, etc. There is no way it will ever be uniform, so I might as
> well take advantage of that.
In that case, you may be well pleased w/o the sanding sealer/undercoat;
I was presuming you'd want to even-up the overall piece rather than
accentuate the differences.
I'd still be somewhat concerned w/ fir and the source of this that
unless it's finish sanded uniformly that variations in surface texture
of the material "as is" will lead to disparate reflectance and variation
in individual pieces...
But, you'll have to judge that from being close up; as another noted,
wiping it down with mineral spirits will give you a good idea of how
similar/dissimilar the surface is going to be and will highlight any
scratches or other defects that you can be the judge of as to
desirability or no...
"DerbyDad03" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I hope to be ready by this weekend to start applying finish to the rustic
>bed
> I'm building for my daughter. Mostly quarter-sawn Douglas fir.
>
> This is the first dry fit:
>
> http://i.imgur.com/0uJlvUf.jpg
>
> I think I want to use a gel stain and possible a gel final finish mainly
> because wiping something "thick" onto these big pieces sounds easier than
> any kind of brush on/runny finish. I'm really limited on space and
> spraying
> is not an option.
>
> I'm not looking to change the color too much, maybe darken it just a
> little
> and bring out some of the red. Any and all suggestions are welcome,
> including
> comments on stain-sealers if required and what to use as a final finish.
> The simpler the better, I'm a real novice when it comes to finishing.
I've been thinking about this. If it were me - and I know many would not
agree - I'd just use oil. Reasons follow.
1. Your wood has been aging for 20 years and you haven't sanded it. Any
clear top coat will exacerbate whatever roughness there is. I once saw a
stair hand rail in an owner built log house that was so rough that he might
as well have embedded shards of glass. I'm sure yours isn't that rough but
is it rough enough after varnishing to snag sheets or blankets?
2. Oil is extremely easy to use and is close to fool proof. It IS fool
proof as long as the surface is well wiped after applying.
3. IMO, oil is entirely satisfactory for your project. I sleep in a bed I
made 30 years ago that was finished with oil. All drawers - there are
many - had the insides finished with oil; if the drawer fronts don't show,
they too were oiled; if exposed, lacquered just for show, not utility.
If you want to consider oil, you have two choices: linseed or tung. Both
will enhance the grain and color the wood. Over time, the tung changes very
little; linseed darkens, how much depends upon how much was soaked up by the
wood; if considerable - yours would - the darkening will also be accompanied
by a shift toward red. Two to three coats of either would be sufficient. I
thin either 50/50 with paint thinner, sometime more dilute (25/75) with
tung..
A variation on just oil would be one that includes a bit of varnish like
Watco. Works like oil but doesn't build a surface layer (unless a LOT of
coats are used).
On 09/14/2016 10:02 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
...
> I hope others will (politely) voice their opinion on this matter. The
> shift towards red with linseed oil might be desirable although the use
> of the words "over time" might be considered less than precise. ;-)
>
> Are we talking months, years or decades?
Yes... :)
I've used the Minwax Antique Oil (a linseed-based rubbing oil) for
years...it's not terribly unique as oil finishes go but is easy to
apply, has a yellowing cast typical of linseed oil but can be applied
over oil-based stains if desired. I've pieces that have been finished
with it for going on 40 yr now that haven't darkened that much that I
can at least recognize. The nice thing of an oil finish is that it can
be renewed trivially; the bad thing is they aren't terribly robust to
spills and such but one wouldn't expect that to be much of an issue for
a bed frame. It's basically my "go to"; don't think can go wrong.
Again, you'll want to test it on a piece...
"DerbyDad03" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Wednesday, September 14, 2016 at 9:54:29 AM UTC-4, dadiOH wrote:
>> "DerbyDad03" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>> >I hope to be ready by this weekend to start applying finish to the
>> >rustic
>> >bed
>> > I'm building for my daughter. Mostly quarter-sawn Douglas fir.
>> >
>> > This is the first dry fit:
>> >
>> > http://i.imgur.com/0uJlvUf.jpg
>> >
>> > I think I want to use a gel stain and possible a gel final finish
>> > mainly
>> > because wiping something "thick" onto these big pieces sounds easier
>> > than
>> > any kind of brush on/runny finish. I'm really limited on space and
>> > spraying
>> > is not an option.
>> >
>> > I'm not looking to change the color too much, maybe darken it just a
>> > little
>> > and bring out some of the red. Any and all suggestions are welcome,
>> > including
>> > comments on stain-sealers if required and what to use as a final
>> > finish.
>> > The simpler the better, I'm a real novice when it comes to finishing.
>>
>> I've been thinking about this. If it were me - and I know many would not
>> agree - I'd just use oil. Reasons follow.
>>
>> 1. Your wood has been aging for 20 years and you haven't sanded it. Any
>> clear top coat will exacerbate whatever roughness there is. I once saw a
>> stair hand rail in an owner built log house that was so rough that he
>> might
>> as well have embedded shards of glass. I'm sure yours isn't that rough
>> but
>> is it rough enough after varnishing to snag sheets or blankets?
>>
>> 2. Oil is extremely easy to use and is close to fool proof. It IS fool
>> proof as long as the surface is well wiped after applying.
>>
>> 3. IMO, oil is entirely satisfactory for your project. I sleep in a bed
>> I
>> made 30 years ago that was finished with oil. All drawers - there are
>> many - had the insides finished with oil; if the drawer fronts don't
>> show,
>> they too were oiled; if exposed, lacquered just for show, not utility.
>>
>> If you want to consider oil, you have two choices: linseed or tung. Both
>> will enhance the grain and color the wood. Over time, the tung changes
>> very
>> little; linseed darkens, how much depends upon how much was soaked up by
>> the
>> wood; if considerable - yours would - the darkening will also be
>> accompanied
>> by a shift toward red. Two to three coats of either would be sufficient.
>> I
>> thin either 50/50 with paint thinner, sometime more dilute (25/75) with
>> tung..
>>
>> A variation on just oil would be one that includes a bit of varnish like
>> Watco. Works like oil but doesn't build a surface layer (unless a LOT of
>> coats are used).
>
> Thanks for the suggestion. I'll do some research on this.
>
> I hope others will (politely) voice their opinion on this matter. The
> shift towards red with linseed oil might be desirable although the use
> of the words "over time" might be considered less than precise. ;-)
>
> Are we talking months, years or decades?
Never timed it but best guess is months; not 2-3, more like 10-12
On 09/14/2016 12:43 PM, dadiOH wrote:
...
> Never timed it but best guess is months; not 2-3, more like 10-12
Like most other effects, how much direct sunlight (read UV) the object
receives will have a major effect on rate/amount of darkening. And, of
course, the wood species itself--cherry has its well-known darkening;
fir is relatively stable as it doesn't have a tremendous amount of color
altho will darken.