I'm in the process of making four 4' tall by 8' wide shelving units using
3/4 veneered oak ply and pre-glued oak veneer edgebanding. All of the
partitions/shelves will be permanent (and randomly spaced) so I was planning
on dado cuts to aid assembly. This is in a commercial flooring showroom
used to display decorative plants/vases/etc.
These units will be 8' up in the air (to the bottom) so visual critique will
be minimal.
Q1: since the edgebanding is 15/16" should it be applied first, trimmed and
then the dados cut? This would show the dado notch. If I apply the banding
after then there is the problem of trimming across the dado either before or
after the perpendicular entity is attached. More time consuming but better
look which may not be a concern from a visual standpoint.
Q2: should I pre-stain/finish before assembly. Trying to spray something
this large could get interesting.
TIA
Gary
If you are going to use veneer edgebanding, I would apply it first then
dado. If are concerned about the appearance, build the units, then apply a
solid oak edging.
Preston
"GeeDubb" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm in the process of making four 4' tall by 8' wide shelving units using
> 3/4 veneered oak ply and pre-glued oak veneer edgebanding. All of the
> partitions/shelves will be permanent (and randomly spaced) so I was
planning
> on dado cuts to aid assembly. This is in a commercial flooring showroom
> used to display decorative plants/vases/etc.
>
> These units will be 8' up in the air (to the bottom) so visual critique
will
> be minimal.
>
> Q1: since the edgebanding is 15/16" should it be applied first, trimmed
and
> then the dados cut? This would show the dado notch. If I apply the
banding
> after then there is the problem of trimming across the dado either before
or
> after the perpendicular entity is attached. More time consuming but
better
> look which may not be a concern from a visual standpoint.
>
> Q2: should I pre-stain/finish before assembly. Trying to spray something
> this large could get interesting.
>
> TIA
>
> Gary
>
>
why would spraying something (assuming HVLP; not spray cans <g>) 4 x8 be
difficult?? Spraying small stuff is more of a pain due to the 10
seconds spraying and 10 minutes cleaning up. This type of project BEGS
to be sprayed, IMHO.
can't comment on the edgebanding.
dave
GeeDubb wrote:
> I'm in the process of making four 4' tall by 8' wide shelving units using
> 3/4 veneered oak ply and pre-glued oak veneer edgebanding. All of the
> partitions/shelves will be permanent (and randomly spaced) so I was planning
> on dado cuts to aid assembly. This is in a commercial flooring showroom
> used to display decorative plants/vases/etc.
>
> These units will be 8' up in the air (to the bottom) so visual critique will
> be minimal.
>
> Q1: since the edgebanding is 15/16" should it be applied first, trimmed and
> then the dados cut? This would show the dado notch. If I apply the banding
> after then there is the problem of trimming across the dado either before or
> after the perpendicular entity is attached. More time consuming but better
> look which may not be a concern from a visual standpoint.
>
> Q2: should I pre-stain/finish before assembly. Trying to spray something
> this large could get interesting.
>
> TIA
>
> Gary
>
>
"GeeDubb" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm in the process of making four 4' tall by 8' wide shelving units using
> 3/4 veneered oak ply and pre-glued oak veneer edgebanding. All of the
> partitions/shelves will be permanent (and randomly spaced) so I was
planning
> on dado cuts to aid assembly. This is in a commercial flooring showroom
> used to display decorative plants/vases/etc.
>
> These units will be 8' up in the air (to the bottom) so visual critique
will
> be minimal.
>
> Q1: since the edgebanding is 15/16" should it be applied first, trimmed
and
> then the dados cut? This would show the dado notch. If I apply the
banding
> after then there is the problem of trimming across the dado either before
or
> after the perpendicular entity is attached. More time consuming but
better
> look which may not be a concern from a visual standpoint.
>
> Q2: should I pre-stain/finish before assembly. Trying to spray something
> this large could get interesting.
>
Why don't you use stopped dados so that they don't show in the front and the
edgebanding doesn't cross over a joint?
Frank
GeeDubb wrote:
> I'm in the process of making four 4' tall by 8' wide shelving units using
> 3/4 veneered oak ply and pre-glued oak veneer edgebanding. All of the
> partitions/shelves will be permanent (and randomly spaced) so I was planning
> on dado cuts to aid assembly. This is in a commercial flooring showroom
> used to display decorative plants/vases/etc.
Weird!? Are you me? I just finished my second 4' tall x 8' wide
bookshelf with permanent shelves dadoed into the sides using 3/4 oak
veneer ply.
>
> These units will be 8' up in the air (to the bottom) so visual critique will
> be minimal.
>
> Q1: since the edgebanding is 15/16" should it be applied first, trimmed and
> then the dados cut? This would show the dado notch. If I apply the banding
> after then there is the problem of trimming across the dado either before or
> after the perpendicular entity is attached. More time consuming but better
> look which may not be a concern from a visual standpoint.
Since mine were for books, I used 2" wide solid wood edging.
But if I were to do the edgebanding, I would apply it after the shelf
was put together, sides first with each shelf banding butting up to the
sides' banding. But like you said your shelves will be 8' in the air.
>
> Q2: should I pre-stain/finish before assembly. Trying to spray something
> this large could get interesting.
My wife and I have tried both ways on our shelves, and she (who does all
my finishing) thinks that finishing the shelves after they were together
was easier than pre-finishing. But she brushed them.
>
> TIA
No problem. Hoped this helped.
>
> Gary
>
>
"C.Groth" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> GeeDubb wrote:
>
> > I'm in the process of making four 4' tall by 8' wide shelving units
using
> > 3/4 veneered oak ply and pre-glued oak veneer edgebanding. All of the
> > partitions/shelves will be permanent (and randomly spaced) so I was
planning
> > on dado cuts to aid assembly. This is in a commercial flooring showroom
> > used to display decorative plants/vases/etc.
>
> Weird!? Are you me? I just finished my second 4' tall x 8' wide
> bookshelf with permanent shelves dadoed into the sides using 3/4 oak
> veneer ply.
>
> >
> > These units will be 8' up in the air (to the bottom) so visual critique
will
> > be minimal.
> >
> > Q1: since the edgebanding is 15/16" should it be applied first, trimmed
and
> > then the dados cut? This would show the dado notch. If I apply the
banding
> > after then there is the problem of trimming across the dado either
before or
> > after the perpendicular entity is attached. More time consuming but
better
> > look which may not be a concern from a visual standpoint.
>
> Since mine were for books, I used 2" wide solid wood edging.
> But if I were to do the edgebanding, I would apply it after the shelf
> was put together, sides first with each shelf banding butting up to the
> sides' banding. But like you said your shelves will be 8' in the air.
>
> >
> > Q2: should I pre-stain/finish before assembly. Trying to spray
something
> > this large could get interesting.
>
> My wife and I have tried both ways on our shelves, and she (who does all
> my finishing) thinks that finishing the shelves after they were together
> was easier than pre-finishing. But she brushed them.
>
> >
> > TIA
>
> No problem. Hoped this helped.
>
> >
> > Gary
Thanks for the input. For cost reasons I'm not doing the solid wood edging.
Since I just finish another cabinet that I used edgebanding on, applying
after assembly, I ran into the issue of where the band crosses over the
connecting shelf being wider than the side material. When trimming the band
the part that crossed the shelve needed to be trimmed. It wasn't difficult,
just time consuming but this cabinet was at eye level so it was more
important to make it look right.
As for finishing I'll probably brush the oil stain then spray the lacquer.
I've found that leaving the back off really helps prevent bounce back and
sandpaper finish. I just thought it would be easier to pre-finish
everything flat then assemble but I've never done anything that way before.
Again, thanks
Gary
"Frank Ketchum" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "GeeDubb" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I'm in the process of making four 4' tall by 8' wide shelving units
using
> > 3/4 veneered oak ply and pre-glued oak veneer edgebanding. All of the
> > partitions/shelves will be permanent (and randomly spaced) so I was
> planning
> > on dado cuts to aid assembly. This is in a commercial flooring showroom
> > used to display decorative plants/vases/etc.
> >
> > These units will be 8' up in the air (to the bottom) so visual critique
> will
> > be minimal.
> >
> > Q1: since the edgebanding is 15/16" should it be applied first, trimmed
> and
> > then the dados cut? This would show the dado notch. If I apply the
> banding
> > after then there is the problem of trimming across the dado either
before
> or
> > after the perpendicular entity is attached. More time consuming but
> better
> > look which may not be a concern from a visual standpoint.
> >
> > Q2: should I pre-stain/finish before assembly. Trying to spray
something
> > this large could get interesting.
> >
>
> Why don't you use stopped dados so that they don't show in the front and
the
> edgebanding doesn't cross over a joint?
>
> Frank
It never crossed my mind. The problem of overlap from the banding still
comes up if I apply the banding after assembly. If I pre-band then it
solves a lot of my concerns though the time consumption of stopped dados and
notching the mating shelving may take longer than just trimming the banding.
Thanks Frank, it's an approach I hadn't looked at.
Gary
"Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> why would spraying something (assuming HVLP; not spray cans <g>) 4 x8 be
> difficult?? Spraying small stuff is more of a pain due to the 10
> seconds spraying and 10 minutes cleaning up. This type of project BEGS
> to be sprayed, IMHO.
>
> can't comment on the edgebanding.
>
> dave
>
Spraying isn't the issue. I use an airless so application is fast and
furious (and now have an Accuspray 19 for small jobs).
My thought was 'would it be easier to spray a bunch of flat surfaces rather
than risk drips from spraying several boxed openings?' Since the stain is
relatively dark, assembly of such a large project (alone) just reeks of glue
not where it's supposed to be. Pre-finishing would minimize the potential
for that.
But I am going to have four of these shelf units so having that much linear
footage spread out might pose an entirely different can of worms.
Thanks for the input,
Gary
On Fri, 5 Mar 2004 13:13:12 -0700, "GeeDubb" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>"Frank Ketchum" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>
>> Why don't you use stopped dados so that they don't show in the front and
>the
>> edgebanding doesn't cross over a joint?
>>
>> Frank
>
>It never crossed my mind. The problem of overlap from the banding still
>comes up if I apply the banding after assembly. If I pre-band then it
>solves a lot of my concerns though the time consumption of stopped dados and
>notching the mating shelving may take longer than just trimming the banding.
With a bit of advance planning you can do the stopped dados just as
fast as through dados. The notches are the type of thing that I would
gang together and then cut as a block. One pass over an appropriately
positioned dado blade and 10 shelves are done.
Tim Douglass
http://www.DouglassClan.com