Hi -
I'm finishing a dining room table - it's cherry - and have never
finished a piece this large before. My question is, do I go the length
of the table and then overlap the long run or do I do a section of the
complete width moving down the table in stages?
I plan to use a quick-dry varnish, thinned 50% with naphtha, as
described in a FWW article from a few years ago. The author used a
folded up paper towel as an application device.
Any opinions/suggestions?
Thanks
Michael
I used Varathane on my old walnut dining room table about 12 years ago. It
has worn beautifully, still looks gorgeous after a little spritz of polish
and holds up to moisture and spills of all sorts of things.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:7579fdc4-6ad5-434a-8184-c973cbaaebab@x35g2000hsb.googlegroups.com...
Hi, Michael.
FWIW, I agree with Leon, only in a little stronger terms than he
expressed. If you are asking this question that means you are unsure
of your method and materials. Don't screw yourself right off the bat
with a quick dry finish, only to thin it again with a solvent that
will make it dry even faster. You will have a mess in short order on
a large surface that you are trying to make smooth.
Since the goal of this is to make the surface as smooth as possible
and not have brush marks, it is important to select the correct
product to seal the top with. Varnishes can tend to be soft, although
there are some hard ones out there. Polyurethanes tend to be harder
and give better abrasion/wear/water resistance overall.
I would find myself a good, normal drying poly and brush it out as
Leon describes and let it dry out for several hours (8 +) then
recoat. The longer work time normal poly provides makes the finish
very forgiving of errant brush strokes and overlaps. The longer lay
out makes the final product smoother and lets it seek its own level a
little better before tightening up.
As always, YMMV.
Robert
Hi, Michael.
FWIW, I agree with Leon, only in a little stronger terms than he
expressed. If you are asking this question that means you are unsure
of your method and materials. Don't screw yourself right off the bat
with a quick dry finish, only to thin it again with a solvent that
will make it dry even faster. You will have a mess in short order on
a large surface that you are trying to make smooth.
Since the goal of this is to make the surface as smooth as possible
and not have brush marks, it is important to select the correct
product to seal the top with. Varnishes can tend to be soft, although
there are some hard ones out there. Polyurethanes tend to be harder
and give better abrasion/wear/water resistance overall.
I would find myself a good, normal drying poly and brush it out as
Leon describes and let it dry out for several hours (8 +) then
recoat. The longer work time normal poly provides makes the finish
very forgiving of errant brush strokes and overlaps. The longer lay
out makes the final product smoother and lets it seek its own level a
little better before tightening up.
As always, YMMV.
Robert
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:1613431b-86c3-4803-a2ba-102fa27adc49@a70g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
> Hi -
>
> I'm finishing a dining room table - it's cherry - and have never
> finished a piece this large before. My question is, do I go the length
> of the table and then overlap the long run or do I do a section of the
> complete width moving down the table in stages?
>
> I plan to use a quick-dry varnish, thinned 50% with naphtha, as
> described in a FWW article from a few years ago. The author used a
> folded up paper towel as an application device.
>
> Any opinions/suggestions?
>
> Thanks
> Michael
For a large surface I suggest not using a Quick Dry varnish, I do recommend
thinning a bit however. I get great results using General Finishes,
Arm-R-Seal varnish applied with a quality "Foam Brush". Not all foam
brushes are created equally. Good ones can be cleaned and used over and
over again. I prefer "Wooster" foam brushes. I typically get a glass like
finish with no stroke marks using this varnish and method.
The first coat I apply thin and with a rag to seal the wood followed with a
brush application.
You want to go end to end in a contagious stroke and you always want to be
working a wet edge, hence the non quick drying varnish. A 3" wide foam
brush will easily hold enough varnish to make a continuous 5' long stroke.
I have been able to cover 2 square feet with one dip of the brush.
Again use a Quality foam brush. Lowe's sells Wooster foam brushes. A 3"
one will run you about $4-$5.