Woodpecker Rules

On Wed, 16 Jan 2013 15:04:38 -0500, Bill <[email protected]>
wrote:

>Turns out Woodpecker has two 24"rules,
>one mainly for measuring ($30) and one mainly for
>setting up tools($40)-it's called SERX. Both are Aluminum.
>
>The first rule looks dandy, with it's engraved markings and angled edge.
>I would have expected it to be straight enough to use
>for both measuring AND setting up tools.
>
>Can anyone shed anymorelight on this (Is it a racket? LOL ).
>Woodworkingshows is coming to town soon! : )
>
>Bill

I've bought a few of their products, always high quality. Occasionally
they have great deals on clamps and drawer slides.

Mike M

On Sun, 20 Jan 2013 14:18:29 +0000 (UTC), Doug Miller
<[email protected]> wrote:

>"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in news:kdgnku$56o$1@dont-
>email.me:
>
>> Doug Miller wrote:
>[clown shot himself in the hand while reloading a handgun]
>>>
>>> What an idiot.
>>
>> In a major sense! There's just so much wrong with that incident that it's
>> not worth delving into. Darwin...
>
>Oh, I dunno, there might be some entertainment value in delving into it... I'm still trying to figure
>out how you can manage to shoot yourself in the *hand* while reloading a handgun.

Easy enough to do, depending on interpretation of when loading starts
and stops. Think about ALL the steps, such as picking it up (wrongly)
and putting it down (wrongly). I think it is done during the
beginning or end of the procedure, not the actual putting bullets in a
clip. Dammit, I thought I shot them all.

Dave <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Thu, 17 Jan 2013 10:18:22 -0600, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
>> The T-S Aligner Jr:
>> http://www.ts-aligner.com/tsalignerjr.htm
>
> I was wondering. Does the Aligner fasten down in that t-slot before
> you engage the measuring mechanism?
>
> I'm thinking that because it can slide in the t-slot, that there would
> be some slop in the measuring caused by it, as small as that slop
> might be?

None at all, because it doesn't slide, it rolls. Simple engineering
principle ... A precision bearing, or wheel, makes continuous and intimate
contact with the surface it rolls/rides against.

Three precision roller bearings form a triangle ... two fixed, and spaced
apart bearings roll against the same side wall of the machined miter slot;
a third, adjustable bearing, centered between the two fixed bearings, rolls
against the opposite wall of the miter slot.

Simply place the unit in the miter slot and adjust the middle bearing so
that all three bearings contact, and are touching/rolling against both
miter slot walls.

Result, no "slop" at all.

Ed Bennett is one helluva engineer, and that fact shows in every aspect of
his product.

--
www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile)

Bill wrote:

>
> Let me rephrase my question:
>
> My only "fine measuring stick" is a 12" Starrett combination square.
>
> Do I need more tools for setting up an 8" jointer or table saw
> properly?
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
I would not try to set cutter knives parallel to feed tables on a
jointer,
unless I had the magnetic jig sold for the purpose.

Life is just to short to try to do otherwise.

Lew

Bill <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

*snip*

> Also ordered their "Chemical
> Splash Goggles", a polycarbonate, that are able to go over regular
> glasses to use as safety glasses.
> They are supposed to be "fog free" and I am hopeful they will work out.
>

*snip*

Let me know how that works out. I've tried to get goggles or safety
glasses that work properly with my glasses, and they all fog up or have
some other problem. (One set of OTG safety glasses had terrible
reflections.)

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

"Doug Miller" wrote:

> Use a face shield. The only times I've ever had fogging problems
> with a face shield, I've
> been using it outdoors in very cold weather (e.g. while using a
> chain saw to cut up a fallen
> tree in January).
>
> There are multiple reasons for using a face shield instead of
> goggles, IMHO:
> 1. more comfortable
> 2. doesn't fog
> 3. easier to put on
> 4. because of 1 thru 3 above, you're more likely to use it
> 5. much better field of vision
> 6. there are other things on your face besides your eyes that are
> worth protecting.
------------------------------------------------------
Buy the right unit and replacement shields are low cost and simple to
replace.

Check WW Grainger or a safety supply house.

Lew

"Doug Miller" wrote
>
> Use a face shield. The only times I've ever had fogging problems with a
> face shield, I've
> been using it outdoors in very cold weather (e.g. while using a chain saw
> to cut up a fallen
> tree in January).
>
> There are multiple reasons for using a face shield instead of goggles,
> IMHO:
> 1. more comfortable
> 2. doesn't fog
> 3. easier to put on
> 4. because of 1 thru 3 above, you're more likely to use it
> 5. much better field of vision
> 6. there are other things on your face besides your eyes that are worth
> protecting.
>
7. Much easier to clean. I use alcohol to clean mine.
8. The face shield is easily (and economically) replaced.

I have always been a safety freak. I grew up among folks who weren't. It
was a burning ambition of mine, when young, to NOT get maimed like others I
have known.

I can't remember the specific incident. But I got hit hard in the face
shield once. It was loud and knocked me on my butt. I sat there with my
head ringing. Not only does it protect a much bigger area, but it absorbs
more shock. Think about it. I am a big guy. The impact knocked me over.
Imagine what it would have done to my face if the face shield was not in the
way.

On 1/20/2013 10:43 AM, Leon wrote:
> On 1/20/2013 10:23 AM, Bill wrote:
>
> Had he released the slide prior to putting in the clip this would not
> have happened, there would have not been a bullet in the chamber.
> As it is he probably reloaded in the manor that immediately chambers a
> bullet when releasing the slide. In the later sequence the gun is ready
> to fire immediately.

Point of order... Lest we here start to sound like ignorant media types...

I've twice read of "clips" in this thread. Clips were used in olden
times to hold a loading of rifle cartridges together for rapid insertion
into the rifles MAGAZINE. The only clips I am aware of with regard to
handguns or, for that matter, any modern firearm are "half moon" clips
which are used to hold .45Auto cartridges in the cylinders of certain
revolvers chambered for same.

Guns do not possess free will. They only fire when external forces
intervene, like a finger inside a trigger guard when the person has no
intention of firing. It's no accident, it is, at best an "unintentional
discharge" but usually just stupidity.<g>

Doug Miller <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote in
> news:50fb607d$0$41372$c3e8da3 [email protected]:
>
>> Bill <[email protected]> wrote in
>> news:[email protected]:
>>
>> *snip*
>>
>>> Also ordered their "Chemical
>>> Splash Goggles", a polycarbonate, that are able to go over regular
>>> glasses to use as safety glasses.
>>> They are supposed to be "fog free" and I am hopeful they will work
>>> out.
>>>
>>
>> *snip*
>>
>> Let me know how that works out. I've tried to get goggles or safety
>> glasses that work properly with my glasses, and they all fog up or
>> have some other problem. (One set of OTG safety glasses had terrible
>> reflections.)
>
> Use a face shield. The only times I've ever had fogging problems with
> a face shield, I've been using it outdoors in very cold weather (e.g.
> while using a chain saw to cut up a fallen tree in January).
>
> There are multiple reasons for using a face shield instead of goggles,
> IMHO: 1. more comfortable
> 2. doesn't fog
> 3. easier to put on
> 4. because of 1 thru 3 above, you're more likely to use it
> 5. much better field of vision
> 6. there are other things on your face besides your eyes that are
> worth protecting.
>

I've got a Trend AirShield Pro that I'm only partially satisfied with. I
agree with most of what you've said, but disagree on 1 and 3. I know
it's more than just a face shield, but it's the only way I've found to
keep the fogging down. (It also lets me get away from using the mask,
which is nice.)

I did buy a face shield from Home Depot some time ago (at your
suggestion, actually) and found that either it or my glasses still fogged
up.

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

woodchucker <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> Why not just get a set of prescription safety glasses?
> Well worth the price considering how much time you probably spend in
> the shop.
>

It's not a bad idea... I haven't gotten that far yet.

One company makes safety glasses that use a lense insert rather than
modifying the shield part. It's much cheaper than their prescription
safety glasses offering and the shield is replacable if it gets scratched
or broken.

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

Bill wrote:

> Now that's funny. Read a bunch of examples here for inspiration and
> a smile--better than being locked in a cell, without a file:
>
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burma-Shave

-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Spring has sprung,
The grass has riz,
Where last year's,
Careless driver is,
BurmaShave

Still remember this one that appeared on US-30 (Lincoln Highway) West
bound between Wooster, OH and Mansfield, OH, probably about 1950.

Lew

Bill wrote:

> Now that's funny. Read a bunch of examples here for inspiration and
> a smile--better than being locked in a cell, without a file:
>
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burma-Shave

--------------------------------------------------------
Another one.
**************************
That barefoot boy,
With cheeks of tan,
Won't let them chap,
When he's a man,
BurmaShave

Probably also someplace along US-30 (Lincoln Highway).

Lew

Bill wrote:


> No reason to start a new thread. Just picked up four 3" castors
> from
> Harbor Freight
> to build one of those pyramidal-shaped clamp racks, with a 30" base
> with
> a flat top to put neccessities,
> and probably some shelves in between. Since I'll be using screws,
> the
> project allows for winter woodworking (something
> many folks are able to take for granted!)
>
>
> Here's a picture of the basic idea, with which the reader is
> probably
> already familiar:
> http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2021255/25873/clamp-rack--downloadable-plan.aspx
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Might want to check out Norm's offering.

http://tinyurl.com/ba44xe8

It's a two for one deal.

Lew

On 1/21/2013 3:22 PM, Bill wrote:
>
> No reason to start a new thread. Just picked up four 3" castors from
> Harbor Freight
> to build one of those pyramidal-shaped clamp racks, with a 30" base with
> a flat top to put neccessities,
> and probably some shelves in between. Since I'll be using screws, the
> project allows for winter woodworking (something
> many folks are able to take for granted!)
>
>
> Here's a picture of the basic idea, with which the reader is probably
> already familiar:
> http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2021255/25873/clamp-rack--downloadable-plan.aspx
>
>
> The four main "verticals" (corner pieces) have "splay" (at least, I
> think that's the way they refer to it on the legs on Windsor chairs).
>
> I'll review my ww mags to help come up with a desgin--I will probably
> include a flat end to hang hooks on.
> New shop furniture! :)
>
> I'm not sure if I'll have splay in just two dimension or three. The
> clamp rack in the diagram seems appears to be in the former category,
> and would be simpler than if done in the latter category--but might end
> up looking more "stoic" (than pyramidal).
>
> If anyone has any suggestions on building with splay, as described, I'm
> all ears. I think that with leaning/splay in 2 dimensions (like in the
> picture at the link), the problem
> is not as challenging as it is in 3.
>
> Cheers,
> Bill
>


Bill I can send you a Sketchup drawing of my mobile clamp rack. I can
tell you that the top catch all box on top is not great if you can't see
what is inside. Mine has one way up there and I really should lower it.

Any way Mine is tall enough for 6' clamps.

Let me know where to send it if you want a copy.

On Thu, 17 Jan 2013 09:38:42 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:

>On 1/17/2013 9:24 AM, Bill wrote:
>>
>> Let me rephrase my question:
>>
>> My only "fine measuring stick" is a 12" Starrett combination square.
>>
>> Do I need more tools for setting up an 8" jointer or table saw properly?
>>
>> Bill
>>
>
>
>Depending on the quality of your equipment you need to be able to
>measure in the thousands of an inch. For example to measure your
>TS blade being parallel to the miter slot and the fence parallel to the
>blade you are shooting for as close to perfectly parallel as you can
>get. Dial indicators which measure much smaller increments helps you
>get there especially when setting the miter slot to the blade.
>Typically rip fences are very easy to adjust in small increments and
>results are easily seen by your eye so in this case I never use a
>measuring devise to set the fence parallel to the blade.

I assume you mean that you set the fence parallel to the slot (after
the slot is made parallel to the blade).

On 1/16/2013 3:04 PM, Bill wrote:
> Turns out Woodpecker has two 24"rules,
> one mainly for measuring ($30) and one mainly for
> setting up tools($40)-it's called SERX. Both are Aluminum.
>
> The first rule looks dandy, with it's engraved markings and angled edge.
> I would have expected it to be straight enough to use
> for both measuring AND setting up tools.
>
> Can anyone shed anymorelight on this (Is it a racket? LOL ).
> Woodworkingshows is coming to town soon! : )
>
> Bill

I bought a SS 24" rule from Lee Valley mainly for drawing straight lines
for bandsaw work. It is straight as far as I can tell, but LV advised
me that it was not intended for that, they suggested that I buy a
certified straight edge. I resisted.

--
G.W.Ross

Everywhere is walking distance if you
have the time. --Steven Wright

On 1/17/2013 1:39 PM, Bill wrote:
> Swingman wrote:
>> On 1/17/2013 9:24 AM, Bill wrote:
>>>
>>> Let me rephrase my question:
>>>
>>> My only "fine measuring stick" is a 12" Starrett combination square.
>>>
>>> Do I need more tools for setting up an 8" jointer or table saw properly?
>>
>> Depends upon the tool being setup, and to a point, the precision to
>> which it is capable of being setup.
>>
>> IOW, a high quality cabinet saw or jointer may allow more precision
>> than most of the cheaper contractor saws or jointers ...
>
>
> I don't know how highly you regard Grizzly. But's that's the direction
> I'm heading (Models G0690 TS, and G0490 jointer). I even made a special
> trip to their showroom last summer while I was driving through MO--and
> got the T-shirt.
>
>

FWIW I don't know of any one that does not make a respectable "true"
cabinet saw. The Griz you mentioned above should be fine.


Contractors saws are a totally different matter and you need to do your
home work if getting one.

On 1/21/2013 3:22 PM, Bill wrote:
> If anyone has any suggestions on building with splay, as described, I'm
> all ears. I think that with leaning/splay in 2 dimensions (like in the
> picture at the link), the problem
> is not as challenging as it is in 3.

If Leon doesn't chime in, ping him. He built one that looks very similar
and it apparently works very well. I was just looking at it a couple of
nights ago.

--
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KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 1/17/2013 12:27 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Thu, 17 Jan 2013 09:38:42 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
> wrote:
>
>> On 1/17/2013 9:24 AM, Bill wrote:
>>>
>>> Let me rephrase my question:
>>>
>>> My only "fine measuring stick" is a 12" Starrett combination square.
>>>
>>> Do I need more tools for setting up an 8" jointer or table saw properly?
>>>
>>> Bill
>>>
>>
>>
>> Depending on the quality of your equipment you need to be able to
>> measure in the thousands of an inch. For example to measure your
>> TS blade being parallel to the miter slot and the fence parallel to the
>> blade you are shooting for as close to perfectly parallel as you can
>> get. Dial indicators which measure much smaller increments helps you
>> get there especially when setting the miter slot to the blade.
>> Typically rip fences are very easy to adjust in small increments and
>> results are easily seen by your eye so in this case I never use a
>> measuring devise to set the fence parallel to the blade.
>
> I assume you mean that you set the fence parallel to the slot (after
> the slot is made parallel to the blade).
>


Yes, but you can adjust the fence parallel to the blade too but only
after adjusting the blade to the slot.

On 1/20/2013 12:41 PM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
> The only clips I am aware of with regard to handguns or, for that
> matter, any modern firearm are "half moon" clips which are used to hold
> .45Auto cartridges in the cylinders of certain revolvers chambered for
> same.

Yep, forgot all about those moon clips ... you needed someway to hold
them for the firing pin, and to pull them out of a revolver that would
use the same rimless 45 ACP as the 1911.

Wayback machine ... :)

Reminded me to talk to my 90 year old Dad and discuss the disposition of
the 1911 he brought back from WWII .... however, the way he's going
he'll outlive me.

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KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 1/20/2013 10:22 AM, Leon wrote:

> Actually I am considering not going for the first time in 30+ years. The
> Wood Working Shows is probably attractive if you have not been to many
> shows. But in the past the shows used to attract every brand name you
> could think of. Compared to 8~10 years ago when they were bigger, think
> the size of a couple of your local Super Markets put together compared
> to a single convenience store.

Haven't been in the last three years, and the only thing I miss is the
opportunity to buy another WWII at a discount. :)

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KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 1/21/2013 8:48 AM, Bill wrote:
> On 1/20/2013 7:12 PM, Leon wrote:
>> On 1/20/2013 6:11 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
>>> Bill wrote:
>>>
>>>> Is true or not that the hammer's can fall on those 45's without
>>>> pulling the trigger?
>>>> The hammer "ready to fall" sort of bothers me (compared to a
>>>> revolver).
>>>
>>> Not a question that can be answered Bill. Don't know what you mean by
>>> "those 45's". There are tons of models of .45 out there that suffer
>>> no such
>>> issue. There might be a handful that do, but your question just
>>> can't be
>>> answered. Either way - it's not a .45 issue.
>>>
>>
>>
>> He was probably responding to the 45 auto that I was referring to and
>> probably the one that is the most common.
>
> Years ago, I handled the Colt and the S&W Models 39 and 59 everyday,
> helping to sell them. I haven't touched a 45 since then. OOPS, the S&Ws
> were 9mm caliber (but they seemed of similar design).
>
> Maybe 1 out of 15 customers would (corectly) use the term magazine when
> they were referring to the size of the clip (i.e. magazine) :) Now we
> have the Internet, so everyone can be an expert! IIRC, the size of the
> magazine was the most distinguishing feature between the Model 39 and
> the Model 59. In the larger magazine (14?), the popular debate was
> whether the bullets could get jammed since they alternated like a
> zig-zag stitch (an analogy that any who both sew and shoot will quickly
> understand) in the magazine.


OK, I don't want to be accused of Bong Jure. :~)

In reference to the is it a clip or is it a magazine debate I have heard
it referred to as both for as long as I have owned fire arms. And yes I
own an old Mauser that uses "Stripper Clips" to quickly load the
magazine in that weapon. I did not have to look that up. ;~)
I did use the internet to confirm what I was taught and did not have to
look long for many confirming examples of my definition.
I did have to look specifically at Colt and S&W to see the magazine
definition being used.
So basically I was using terminology that the majority is familiar with.


If we want to get specific, do not refer to the paint on your car, it is
color coat and clear coat.

If we want to get specific, do not call it a biscuit cutter, call it a
plate joiner. In fact, I know of no one that actually owns a biscuit
cutter, we all buy the biscuits, right? Maybe it should be called
biscuit slot cutter which would be more accurate than biscuit cutter and
less than plate joiner.

If we want to get specific, do not call it a skillsaw, call it a
circular saw.

I could go on and on but choose not to.

Thank you

On 1/17/2013 5:03 PM, Swingman wrote:
> On 1/17/2013 4:31 PM, Leon wrote:
>
>>> IOW, a high quality cabinet saw or jointer may allow more precision than
>>> most of the cheaper contractor saws or jointers ...
>>>
>>> ... although there is really only one way to adjust the miter slot to
>>> be parallel to the fence on most table saws, and that is by loosening
>>> the top, and banging it into alignment with all the precision of a
>>> hammer/mallet ... :)
>>
>>
>> Agreed on most cabinet saws.
>> The top and trunnion on a cabinet saw are both attached to the cabinet.
>>
>> But you bang the trunnion on the typical contractors saw. The
>> trunnion is attached to the top and the top is attached to the cabinet.
>
> Now, if you really want to get technical, there is nothing to stop you
> from loosening the top of a cabinet saw AND <wait for it> banging on the
> _cabinet_ instead. LOL!
>
> The point being of course, on either ... with all the precision you get
> from "banging" on something. :)
>


;~) and I was not trying to get into a pissing contest.

On 1/17/2013 10:18 AM, Swingman wrote:
> On 1/17/2013 9:24 AM, Bill wrote:
>>
>> Let me rephrase my question:
>>
>> My only "fine measuring stick" is a 12" Starrett combination square.
>>
>> Do I need more tools for setting up an 8" jointer or table saw properly?
>
> Depends upon the tool being setup, and to a point, the precision to
> which it is capable of being setup.
>
> IOW, a high quality cabinet saw or jointer may allow more precision than
> most of the cheaper contractor saws or jointers ...
>
> ... although there is really only one way to adjust the miter slot to
> be parallel to the fence on most table saws, and that is by loosening
> the top, and banging it into alignment with all the precision of a
> hammer/mallet ... :)


Agreed on most cabinet saws.
The top and trunnion on a cabinet saw are both attached to the cabinet.

But you bang the trunnion on the typical contractors saw. The
trunnion is attached to the top and the top is attached to the cabinet.

On 1/16/2013 2:04 PM, Bill wrote:
> Turns out Woodpecker has two 24"rules,
> one mainly for measuring ($30) and one mainly for
> setting up tools($40)-it's called SERX. Both are Aluminum.
>
> The first rule looks dandy, with it's engraved markings and angled edge.
> I would have expected it to be straight enough to use
> for both measuring AND setting up tools.
>
> Can anyone shed anymorelight on this (Is it a racket? LOL ).
> Woodworkingshows is coming to town soon! : )
>
> Bill


For actual woodworking i have the 48" and 34" version of the Story Stick
pro. I use these multiple time on every project. Great for
transferring an exact measurement, what ever it might be, from the
actual project to the saw for perfect length cuts. I use it to lay out
reference lines on both ends of the track for my track saw. The story
stick pro reflects setting measurements on both sides of the measure.
Useable on both sides at the same time.

On it's way

On 1/17/2013 9:24 AM, Bill wrote:
>
> Let me rephrase my question:
>
> My only "fine measuring stick" is a 12" Starrett combination square.
>
> Do I need more tools for setting up an 8" jointer or table saw properly?

Depends upon the tool being setup, and to a point, the precision to
which it is capable of being setup.

IOW, a high quality cabinet saw or jointer may allow more precision than
most of the cheaper contractor saws or jointers ...

... although there is really only one way to adjust the miter slot to
be parallel to the fence on most table saws, and that is by loosening
the top, and banging it into alignment with all the precision of a
hammer/mallet ... :)

As contrary as Ed Bennett can be, he makes one of the finest tools for
woodshop tool setup that can probably be found on the planet.

The T-S Aligner Jr:

http://www.ts-aligner.com/tsalignerjr.htm

Not something that you will use all that often, but it is indeed the
"Premier" tool for the job, and well worth owning if you're really
serious/AR about precision setup.

And yes, I do own one, and value it to the extent of having made a
custom case for it:

http://e-woodshop.net/images/TsAlignerCase.JPG

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KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 1/20/2013 12:41 PM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
> On 1/20/2013 10:43 AM, Leon wrote:
>> On 1/20/2013 10:23 AM, Bill wrote:
>>
>> Had he released the slide prior to putting in the clip this would not
>> have happened, there would have not been a bullet in the chamber.
>> As it is he probably reloaded in the manor that immediately chambers a
>> bullet when releasing the slide. In the later sequence the gun is ready
>> to fire immediately.
>
> Point of order... Lest we here start to sound like ignorant media types...
>
> I've twice read of "clips" in this thread. Clips were used in olden
> times to hold a loading of rifle cartridges together for rapid insertion
> into the rifles MAGAZINE.

I think you are confusing "clips" with "stripper clips".

http://www.google.com/search?q=ammunition+clip&hl=en&safe=off&tbo=d&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=lUr8UJW5EIPx2QXD0oCwBg&ved=0CAoQ_AUoAA&biw=1333&bih=679#hl=en&safe=off&tbo=d&tbm=isch&sa=1&q=+ammunition+%22stripper+clip%22&oq=+ammunition+%22stripper+clip%22&gs_l=img.3...11074.13681.6.13822.11.11.0.0.0.0.31.320.11.11.0...0.0...1c.1.t6eJ_xuz5SE&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.&bvm=bv.41248874,d.b2I&fp=a3b7bb1d84fcd41d&biw=1333&bih=679


Clips in general hold ammunition. Stripper clips enabled you to you to
quickly strip the ammunition, whether it be into a weapon or simply to
empty the clip.

The more commonly referred to "clip" houses the ammunition inside the
gun, this is a modern and common style of clip.

http://www.google.com/search?q=Glock+clip&hl=en&safe=off&tbo=u&tbm=isch&source=univ&sa=X&ei=G0z8UJ3SF4XI2AXooIGwDg&ved=0CEQQsAQ&biw=1333&bih=679




The only clips I am aware of with regard to
> handguns or, for that matter, any modern firearm are "half moon" clips
> which are used to hold .45Auto cartridges in the cylinders of certain
> revolvers chambered for same


>
> Guns do not possess free will. They only fire when external forces
> intervene, like a finger inside a trigger guard when the person has no
> intention of firing. It's no accident, it is, at best an "unintentional
> discharge" but usually just stupidity.<g>
>
>
>

On 1/17/2013 12:27 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> I assume you mean that you set the fence parallel to the slot (after
> the slot is made parallel to the blade).

On 1/17/2013 10:18 AM, Swingman wrote:

> ... although there is really only one way to adjust the miter slot to
> be parallel to the fence on most table saws, and that is by loosening
> the top, and banging it into alignment with all the precision of a
> hammer/mallet ...

Made me go back and read mine ... that should be "miter slot to be
parallel to the blade", fercrisskaes ...

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KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

Bill <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:

> Bill wrote:
> Across the steet, folks lined the building by the hundreds all day
> (surely, many thousands in all), to get into the "Gun Show".
> With Obama doing what he is doing, there is alot of interest in the 2nd
> Ammendment!
> There was reportedly more gun show attendees than ever--by a landslide.
> And I have a hunch folks are buying.
> According to the news, someone shot themselves in the hand, by accident,
> in the parking lot as they were leaving.

http://www.indystar.com/article/20130119/NEWS/130119008/Accidental-weapon-
discharge-sends-Indy-gun-show-patron-hospital

If Rose and I had left the Woodworking Show only five minutes later, we would have been
right in front of that building when it happened. We heard a whole lot of sirens as we were
getting into the car to go home, and saw an ambulance leaving the fairgrounds as we
headed west on 38th St.

Guess that explains it.

What an idiot.

Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote in news:50fb607d$0$41372$c3e8da3
[email protected]:

> Bill <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
> *snip*
>
>> Also ordered their "Chemical
>> Splash Goggles", a polycarbonate, that are able to go over regular
>> glasses to use as safety glasses.
>> They are supposed to be "fog free" and I am hopeful they will work out.
>>
>
> *snip*
>
> Let me know how that works out. I've tried to get goggles or safety
> glasses that work properly with my glasses, and they all fog up or have
> some other problem. (One set of OTG safety glasses had terrible
> reflections.)

Use a face shield. The only times I've ever had fogging problems with a face shield, I've
been using it outdoors in very cold weather (e.g. while using a chain saw to cut up a fallen
tree in January).

There are multiple reasons for using a face shield instead of goggles, IMHO:
1. more comfortable
2. doesn't fog
3. easier to put on
4. because of 1 thru 3 above, you're more likely to use it
5. much better field of vision
6. there are other things on your face besides your eyes that are worth protecting.

"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in news:kdgnku$56o$1@dont-
email.me:

> Doug Miller wrote:
[clown shot himself in the hand while reloading a handgun]
>>
>> What an idiot.
>
> In a major sense! There's just so much wrong with that incident that it's
> not worth delving into. Darwin...

Oh, I dunno, there might be some entertainment value in delving into it... I'm still trying to figure
out how you can manage to shoot yourself in the *hand* while reloading a handgun.

Bill <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:

> I went to the show in Indianapolis.It appears that it may occupy twice
> as much floor space as the Houston show.
> Peachtree Woodworking must occupy close to 1000 square feet on their own.
> I would guesstimate the number of exhibitors at 25 (Doug Miller, What is
> your guess?).

I'd put the size of Peachtree's booth at about 1600 square feet, actually. It's huge.

I think the number of vendors is probably closer to 35 than 25, too -- there are a number of
small booths, perhaps only 8'x10' or so, near the entrance.
>
> I think it was easier to get a seat for a workshop then in recent years.

Seemed that way to me, too.

> I'm not sure whether this was due to them having more of them going on
> at the same time, or whether attendance may have been slightly less.

I think attendance was down this year compared to last -- probably due in part to the huge
attendance at the gun show right next door. I'm guessing some folks went to the gun show
who might otherwise have gone to the wood show, and there may have been a few people
intending to attend the wood show who saw the heavy traffic trying to get into the fairgrounds
and gave up and went home.

> Maybe both. $10-12 admission, $5 parking.

Admission was actually a dollar cheaper this year ($10 online vs. $11). I don't remember
when they raised parking from $3 to $5, but I think that was a couple years ago.

On 1/20/2013 6:11 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>
>> Is true or not that the hammer's can fall on those 45's without
>> pulling the trigger?
>> The hammer "ready to fall" sort of bothers me (compared to a
>> revolver).
>
> Not a question that can be answered Bill. Don't know what you mean by
> "those 45's". There are tons of models of .45 out there that suffer no such
> issue. There might be a handful that do, but your question just can't be
> answered. Either way - it's not a .45 issue.
>


He was probably responding to the 45 auto that I was referring to and
probably the one that is the most common.

On Sun, 20 Jan 2013 11:23:18 -0500, Bill <[email protected]>
wrote:

>Ed Pawlowski wrote:
>> On Sun, 20 Jan 2013 14:18:29 +0000 (UTC), Doug Miller
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> "Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in news:kdgnku$56o$1@dont-
>>> email.me:
>>>
>>>> Doug Miller wrote:
>>> [clown shot himself in the hand while reloading a handgun]
>>>>> What an idiot.
>>>> In a major sense! There's just so much wrong with that incident that it's
>>>> not worth delving into. Darwin...
>>> Oh, I dunno, there might be some entertainment value in delving into it... I'm still trying to figure
>>> out how you can manage to shoot yourself in the *hand* while reloading a handgun.
>> Easy enough to do, depending on interpretation of when loading starts
>> and stops. Think about ALL the steps, such as picking it up (wrongly)
>> and putting it down (wrongly). I think it is done during the
>> beginning or end of the procedure, not the actual putting bullets in a
>> clip. Dammit, I thought I shot them all.

Anybody who does anything like that shouldn't be handling a firearm.
(and won't be in the near future) Nor should the owner of the firearm
be allowing it. CROM, what idiots.


>Is true or not that the hammer's can fall on those 45's without pulling
>the trigger?
>The hammer "ready to fall" sort of bothers me (compared to a revolver).

I don't know what you mean by "those 45's" (maybe a link in a post by
someone I have filtered) but the ready answer is "No, they shouldn't
be able to." And that's another reason all Americans should be
schooled in weapons handling at an early age. So they know this and
avoid it, and they know enough to -stop- someone who is not so taught
before it becomes a problem.

--
The problem with borrowing money from China is
that thirty minutes later, you feel broke again.
--Steve Bridges as Obama

On Mon, 21 Jan 2013 14:45:41 -0500, Bill <[email protected]>
wrote:

>Larry Jaques wrote:
>> On Sun, 20 Jan 2013 11:23:18 -0500, Bill <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>
>>> Is true or not that the hammer's can fall on those 45's without pulling
>>> the trigger?
>>> The hammer "ready to fall" sort of bothers me (compared to a revolver).
>> I don't know what you mean by "those 45's" (maybe a link in a post by
>> someone I have filtered) but the ready answer is "No, they shouldn't
>> be able to." And that's another reason all Americans should be
>> schooled in weapons handling at an early age. So they know this and
>> avoid it, and they know enough to -stop- someone who is not so taught
>> before it becomes a problem.
>
>I treat every gun like it's loaded, and the safety is off, and the
>hammer might fall.

As you should.


>This is an old story (there may be a better article about it):
>http://www.examiner.com/article/cnbc-airs-documentary-on-remington-700-rifle-accidental-discharges

A 30.06 rifle is not the same as a .45 handgun, Bill. It doesn't even
have a "hammer". Plus, those Rems definitely aren't supposed to do
that. It sounds as if the higher-ups in Rem made a Ford-Pintoesque
decision. Really dumb.

--
The problem with borrowing money from China is
that thirty minutes later, you feel broke again.
--Steve Bridges as Obama

On 1/22/2013 1:12 PM, Bill wrote:
> Leon wrote:
>>
>> I'll send a picture of the real thing too. It is basically 2x4 and
>> 1x4 material.
>>
>
> Leon, I received your file. Thank you very much for sending it! It was
> interesting to see the way you
> handled the "joinery" for the uprights and that you designated a spot
> for each of your parallel clamps.
> Thanks for sharing!

It will be the picture of perfection, you can count on it. :)

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KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 1/20/2013 4:12 PM, Leon wrote:
> On 1/20/2013 3:54 PM, Bill wrote:
>> Swingman wrote:

>>> https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopJustStuff#5835628176698273074

>> I like the sign (on the outside of a door) that says "This door is just
>> here to protect YOU, NOT ME" (picture of gun below the words)!

> One of my neighbors has a small sine near his door that says,
>
> There is nothing in this house worth dying over.

I can just see it now ... all three, on separate posts, a la Burma
Shave, on the way up the driveway.

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KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 1/19/2013 8:23 PM, Bill wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>> Turns out Woodpecker has two 24"rules,
>> one mainly for measuring ($30) and one mainly for
>> setting up tools($40)-it's called SERX. Both are Aluminum.
>>
>> Can anyone shed anymorelight on this (Is it a racket? LOL ).
>> Woodworkingshows is coming to town soon! : )
>>
>> Bill
>
> I went to the Woodworkingshows event today and ended up getting
> Woodpecker's 24" woodworking rule (it just "feels good" and heavy).
> I went back to the booth later and got the "rule stop". They practically
> had to pry the credit card out of my hand for that--but "accessorizing"
> the rule felt right--and the
> rule stop will help me make use of the rule that much more.
> I ordering the 38" Straight-edge from Lee Valley. LV didn't bring one
> to the show, but they
> are taking care of shipping and sales tax (for all orders placed at the
> show). Also ordered their "Chemical
> Splash Goggles", a polycarbonate, that are able to go over regular
> glasses to use as safety glasses.
> They are supposed to be "fog free" and I am hopeful they will work out.
>
> The show was good. I thought the presentation by "The Coach", Andy
> Chidwick, on wood-bending was
> particularly informative. He has a school in Montana. Roland Johnson
> had a lot of information about bandsaws and bandsaw blades too.
> He pointed out that he wrote a book on them, and it looks like one I may
> collect down the road (Taunton had alot of their books for
> sale, all the full suggested retail price).
>
> Across the steet, folks lined the building by the hundreds all day
> (surely, many thousands in all), to get into the "Gun Show".
> With Obama doing what he is doing, there is alot of interest in the 2nd
> Ammendment!

Not the first time the threat of gun control has entered politics. I
suspect gun shops and manufacturers actually look forward to yet another
threat of more regulation, it brings the paranoid out to buy guns.


> There was reportedly more gun show attendees than ever--by a landslide.
> And I have a hunch folks are buying.
> According to the news, someone shot themselves in the hand, by accident,
> in the parking lot as they were leaving.
>
> Watch for the Woodworkingshows if it comes to your area. Lee Valley has
> some nice stuff to see! ; )

Actually I am considering not going for the first time in 30+ years.
The Wood Working Shows is probably attractive if you have not been to
many shows. But in the past the shows used to attract every brand name
you could think of. Compared to 8~10 years ago when they were bigger,
think the size of a couple of your local Super Markets put together
compared to a single convenience store.
Currently the Houston show is outside Houston in a smaller adjacent
town, at the high school gymnasium.

BTW, what city was your show in?




> I pick up some of the same tools at their booth every year, it's like
> they are becoming old friends! lol
>
> Cheers,
> Bill
>

On 1/20/2013 2:20 PM, Swingman wrote:
> On 1/20/2013 1:49 PM, John Grossbohlin wrote:
>
>> When it comes to guns it's hard to find anything that can be said with
>> certainty!
>
>
> Here's one:
>
> https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopJustStuff#5835628176698273074
>
>
> ;)
>
>


LOVE IT!

On 1/20/2013 2:02 PM, Leon wrote:
> On 1/20/2013 12:41 PM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
>> On 1/20/2013 10:43 AM, Leon wrote:
>>> On 1/20/2013 10:23 AM, Bill wrote:
>>>
>>> Had he released the slide prior to putting in the clip this would not
>>> have happened, there would have not been a bullet in the chamber.
>>> As it is he probably reloaded in the manor that immediately chambers a
>>> bullet when releasing the slide. In the later sequence the gun is ready
>>> to fire immediately.
>>
>> Point of order... Lest we here start to sound like ignorant media
>> types...
>>
>> I've twice read of "clips" in this thread. Clips were used in olden
>> times to hold a loading of rifle cartridges together for rapid insertion
>> into the rifles MAGAZINE.
>
> I think you are confusing "clips" with "stripper clips".
>
> http://www.google.com/search?q=ammunition+clip&hl=en&safe=off&tbo=d&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=lUr8UJW5EIPx2QXD0oCwBg&ved=0CAoQ_AUoAA&biw=1333&bih=679#hl=en&safe=off&tbo=d&tbm=isch&sa=1&q=+ammunition+%22stripper+clip%22&oq=+ammunition+%22stripper+clip%22&gs_l=img.3...11074.13681.6.13822.11.11.0.0.0.0.31.320.11.11.0...0.0...1c.1.t6eJ_xuz5SE&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.&bvm=bv.41248874,d.b2I&fp=a3b7bb1d84fcd41d&biw=1333&bih=679
>
>
>
> Clips in general hold ammunition. Stripper clips enabled you to you to
> quickly strip the ammunition, whether it be into a weapon or simply to
> empty the clip.
>
> The more commonly referred to "clip" houses the ammunition inside the
> gun, this is a modern and common style of clip.
>
> http://www.google.com/search?q=Glock+clip&hl=en&safe=off&tbo=u&tbm=isch&source=univ&sa=X&ei=G0z8UJ3SF4XI2AXooIGwDg&ved=0CEQQsAQ&biw=1333&bih=679
>
>
>

And to clarify,

http://www.angelfire.com/art/enchanter/clip.html

On 1/20/2013 1:49 PM, John Grossbohlin wrote:

> When it comes to guns it's hard to find anything that can be said with
> certainty!


Here's one:

https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopJustStuff#5835628176698273074

;)


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KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 1/21/2013 8:44 PM, woodchucker wrote:
> On 1/21/2013 4:22 PM, Bill wrote:
>>
>> No reason to start a new thread. Just picked up four 3" castors from
>> Harbor Freight
>> to build one of those pyramidal-shaped clamp racks, with a 30" base with
>> a flat top to put neccessities,
>> and probably some shelves in between. Since I'll be using screws, the
>> project allows for winter woodworking (something
>> many folks are able to take for granted!)
>>
>>
>> Here's a picture of the basic idea, with which the reader is probably
>> already familiar:
>> http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2021255/25873/clamp-rack--downloadable-plan.aspx
>>
>>
>>
>> The four main "verticals" (corner pieces) have "splay" (at least, I
>> think that's the way they refer to it on the legs on Windsor chairs).
>>
>> I'll review my ww mags to help come up with a desgin--I will probably
>> include a flat end to hang hooks on.
>> New shop furniture! :)
>>
>> I'm not sure if I'll have splay in just two dimension or three. The
>> clamp rack in the diagram seems appears to be in the former category,
>> and would be simpler than if done in the latter category--but might end
>> up looking more "stoic" (than pyramidal).
>>
>> If anyone has any suggestions on building with splay, as described, I'm
>> all ears. I think that with leaning/splay in 2 dimensions (like in the
>> picture at the link), the problem
>> is not as challenging as it is in 3.
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Bill
>>
>
> Bill , incorporate some 1/2 or 3/4 inch pipe for at least one rung on
> each side and you can load it with heavy clamps. You'd be surprised how
> even closet rod will bend under a heavy load. I think over the years you
> will be surprised how much you use and add to your collection. I find my
> rack is a great addition. I want another. Man can never have too many
> clamps... Unless he doesn't use them.
>
1x4 works great.

On 1/17/2013 4:31 PM, Leon wrote:

>> IOW, a high quality cabinet saw or jointer may allow more precision than
>> most of the cheaper contractor saws or jointers ...
>>
>> ... although there is really only one way to adjust the miter slot to
>> be parallel to the fence on most table saws, and that is by loosening
>> the top, and banging it into alignment with all the precision of a
>> hammer/mallet ... :)
>
>
> Agreed on most cabinet saws.
> The top and trunnion on a cabinet saw are both attached to the cabinet.
>
> But you bang the trunnion on the typical contractors saw. The
> trunnion is attached to the top and the top is attached to the cabinet.

Now, if you really want to get technical, there is nothing to stop you
from loosening the top of a cabinet saw AND <wait for it> banging on the
_cabinet_ instead. LOL!

The point being of course, on either ... with all the precision you get
from "banging" on something. :)

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KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On Mon, 21 Jan 2013 18:14:02 -0500, Bill <[email protected]>
wrote:

>Mike Marlow wrote:
>> Bill wrote:
>>> Larry Jaques wrote:
>>> I was just making the point that hammer don't just "not fall" because
>>> they are not supposed to.
>>> BTW, with regard to your remark--both guns fire center-fire
>>> cartridges, that makes them the same
>>> sort of machine to me.
>>>
>> Now that is taking the art of oversimplification to new levels.
>My bad, I was thinking of the semi-auto Remington 760.
>Yes, I agree that it's not fair to compare a bolt-action gun to a Colt 45.
>The Remington 760 not such a stretch, right?

A Winchester 1873 (a lever action) had a hammer.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Winchester_Model_1873_Short_Rifle_1495.jpg

http://www.neaca.com/images/Remington_Rifles_760_1_.JPG
I see no hammer on this 760. <shrug>

--
The door of opportunity is marked "PUSH".
--anon

On Thu, 17 Jan 2013 10:18:22 -0600, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
>The T-S Aligner Jr:
>http://www.ts-aligner.com/tsalignerjr.htm

I was wondering. Does the Aligner fasten down in that t-slot before
you engage the measuring mechanism?

I'm thinking that because it can slide in the t-slot, that there would
be some slop in the measuring caused by it, as small as that slop
might be?

On Mon, 21 Jan 2013 17:45:55 -0500, Bill <[email protected]>
wrote:

>Larry Jaques wrote:
>> On Mon, 21 Jan 2013 14:45:41 -0500, Bill <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Larry Jaques wrote:
>>>> On Sun, 20 Jan 2013 11:23:18 -0500, Bill <[email protected]>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> Is true or not that the hammer's can fall on those 45's without pulling
>>>>> the trigger?
>>>>> The hammer "ready to fall" sort of bothers me (compared to a revolver).
>>>> I don't know what you mean by "those 45's" (maybe a link in a post by
>>>> someone I have filtered) but the ready answer is "No, they shouldn't
>>>> be able to." And that's another reason all Americans should be
>>>> schooled in weapons handling at an early age. So they know this and
>>>> avoid it, and they know enough to -stop- someone who is not so taught
>>>> before it becomes a problem.
>>> I treat every gun like it's loaded, and the safety is off, and the
>>> hammer might fall.
>> As you should.
>>
>>
>>> This is an old story (there may be a better article about it):
>>> http://www.examiner.com/article/cnbc-airs-documentary-on-remington-700-rifle-accidental-discharges
>> A 30.06 rifle is not the same as a .45 handgun, Bill.
>I was just making the point that hammer don't just "not fall" because
>they are not supposed to.
>BTW, with regard to your remark--both guns fire center-fire cartridges,
>that makes them the same
>sort of machine to me.

<muffled expletive> See the exploded drawings for pistols vs. rifle
bolts. Here are two:
http://www.brownells.com/schematics/Colt-/1911-Government-Models-sid141.aspx
http://www.gunuts.com/view.php?view=details&model_id=52&type=2

--
The problem with borrowing money from China is
that thirty minutes later, you feel broke again.
--Steve Bridges as Obama

On 1/16/2013 5:45 PM, Bill wrote:
> Leon wrote:
>> On 1/16/2013 2:04 PM, Bill wrote:
>>> Turns out Woodpecker has two 24"rules,
>>> one mainly for measuring ($30) and one mainly for
>>> setting up tools($40)-it's called SERX. Both are Aluminum.
>>>
>>> The first rule looks dandy, with it's engraved markings and angled edge.
>>> I would have expected it to be straight enough to use
>>> for both measuring AND setting up tools.
>>>
>>> Can anyone shed anymorelight on this (Is it a racket? LOL ).
>>> Woodworkingshows is coming to town soon! : )
>>>
>>> Bill
>>
>>
>> For actual woodworking i have the 48" and 34" version of the Story
>> Stick pro. I use these multiple time on every project. Great for
>> transferring an exact measurement, what ever it might be, from the
>> actual project to the saw for perfect length cuts. I use it to lay
>> out reference lines on both ends of the track for my track saw.
> That's a clever application for it. I think you meant to type 48" and
> 24". I am planning to look at the 24" one (as you brought it to my
> attention a few weeks ago).

Yeah 24". FWIW I use the longer one probably 5 times more than the
shorter one.







> Bill
>
>
>> The story stick pro reflects setting measurements on both sides of the
>> measure. Useable on both sides at the same time.
>

On 1/20/2013 8:18 AM, Doug Miller wrote:
> "Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in news:kdgnku$56o$1@dont-
> email.me:
>
>> Doug Miller wrote:
> [clown shot himself in the hand while reloading a handgun]
>>>
>>> What an idiot.
>>
>> In a major sense! There's just so much wrong with that incident that it's
>> not worth delving into. Darwin...
>
> Oh, I dunno, there might be some entertainment value in delving into it... I'm still trying to figure
> out how you can manage to shoot yourself in the *hand* while reloading a handgun.
>


45 auto. Put the clip back in the gun, released the slide and pulled
the trigger to uncock the hammer but the hammer slipped.

At least the bullet hit the right person.

On 1/21/2013 4:22 PM, Bill wrote:
>
> No reason to start a new thread. Just picked up four 3" castors from
> Harbor Freight
> to build one of those pyramidal-shaped clamp racks, with a 30" base with
> a flat top to put neccessities,
> and probably some shelves in between. Since I'll be using screws, the
> project allows for winter woodworking (something
> many folks are able to take for granted!)
>
>
> Here's a picture of the basic idea, with which the reader is probably
> already familiar:
> http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2021255/25873/clamp-rack--downloadable-plan.aspx
>
>
> The four main "verticals" (corner pieces) have "splay" (at least, I
> think that's the way they refer to it on the legs on Windsor chairs).
>
> I'll review my ww mags to help come up with a desgin--I will probably
> include a flat end to hang hooks on.
> New shop furniture! :)
>
> I'm not sure if I'll have splay in just two dimension or three. The
> clamp rack in the diagram seems appears to be in the former category,
> and would be simpler than if done in the latter category--but might end
> up looking more "stoic" (than pyramidal).
>
> If anyone has any suggestions on building with splay, as described, I'm
> all ears. I think that with leaning/splay in 2 dimensions (like in the
> picture at the link), the problem
> is not as challenging as it is in 3.
>
> Cheers,
> Bill
>

Bill , incorporate some 1/2 or 3/4 inch pipe for at least one rung on
each side and you can load it with heavy clamps. You'd be surprised how
even closet rod will bend under a heavy load. I think over the years you
will be surprised how much you use and add to your collection. I find my
rack is a great addition. I want another. Man can never have too many
clamps... Unless he doesn't use them.

--
Jeff

On 1/21/2013 7:55 PM, Bill wrote:
> Leon wrote:
>> On 1/21/2013 3:22 PM, Bill wrote:
>>>
>>> No reason to start a new thread. Just picked up four 3" castors from
>>> Harbor Freight
>>> to build one of those pyramidal-shaped clamp racks, with a 30" base with
>>> a flat top to put neccessities,
>>> and probably some shelves in between. Since I'll be using screws, the
>>> project allows for winter woodworking (something
>>> many folks are able to take for granted!)
>>>
>>>
>>> Here's a picture of the basic idea, with which the reader is probably
>>> already familiar:
>>> http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2021255/25873/clamp-rack--downloadable-plan.aspx
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> The four main "verticals" (corner pieces) have "splay" (at least, I
>>> think that's the way they refer to it on the legs on Windsor chairs).
>>>
>>> I'll review my ww mags to help come up with a desgin--I will probably
>>> include a flat end to hang hooks on.
>>> New shop furniture! :)
>>>
>>> I'm not sure if I'll have splay in just two dimension or three. The
>>> clamp rack in the diagram seems appears to be in the former category,
>>> and would be simpler than if done in the latter category--but might end
>>> up looking more "stoic" (than pyramidal).
>>>
>>> If anyone has any suggestions on building with splay, as described, I'm
>>> all ears. I think that with leaning/splay in 2 dimensions (like in the
>>> picture at the link), the problem
>>> is not as challenging as it is in 3.
>>>
>>> Cheers,
>>> Bill
>>>
>>
>>
>> Bill I can send you a Sketchup drawing of my mobile clamp rack. I can
>> tell you that the top catch all box on top is not great if you can't
>> see what is inside. Mine has one way up there and I really should
>> lower it.
>>
>> Any way Mine is tall enough for 6' clamps.
>>
>> Let me know where to send it if you want a copy.
>>
> Thanks for your kind offering, Leon! I would be quite interested in
> seeing what you did! Please send to [email protected].
> I have twelve 4-foot pipe clamps, and nipple connectors (so I can have
> two 24-foot pipe clamps when I need them!), and no six-footers.
> Thus mine won't need to be as high as yours.

I'll send a picture of the real thing too. It is basically 2x4 and 1x4
material.





>
> Mike Marlow, I was thinking about what you said about floor space. These
> clamp racks do provide for a few new places to set stuff.
> You know, the stuff that doesn't have a place? A wad of steel wool?
> Extra clamps? : )
>
> Bill
>>
>>
>

G.W.Ross wrote:
> On 1/16/2013 3:04 PM, Bill wrote:
>> Turns out Woodpecker has two 24"rules,
>> one mainly for measuring ($30) and one mainly for
>> setting up tools($40)-it's called SERX. Both are Aluminum.
>>
>> The first rule looks dandy, with it's engraved markings and angled edge.
>> I would have expected it to be straight enough to use
>> for both measuring AND setting up tools.
>>
>> Can anyone shed anymorelight on this (Is it a racket? LOL ).
>> Woodworkingshows is coming to town soon! : )
>>
>> Bill
>
> I bought a SS 24" rule from Lee Valley mainly for drawing straight
> lines for bandsaw work. It is straight as far as I can tell, but LV
> advised me that it was not intended for that, they suggested that I
> buy a certified straight edge. I resisted.
>
I saw yours online and they look plenty straight enough for drawing
pencil lines. I wonder why they call them "Cabinetmaker's Rules"?
I wanted something to help set up a jointer (among other things). A
selling point made is that the Aluminum won't dull the blades.
If you can rest a rule on a cast iron surface, and can't see light under
it, then the rule is probably flat enough, aye?

Leon wrote:
> On 1/16/2013 2:04 PM, Bill wrote:
>> Turns out Woodpecker has two 24"rules,
>> one mainly for measuring ($30) and one mainly for
>> setting up tools($40)-it's called SERX. Both are Aluminum.
>>
>> The first rule looks dandy, with it's engraved markings and angled edge.
>> I would have expected it to be straight enough to use
>> for both measuring AND setting up tools.
>>
>> Can anyone shed anymorelight on this (Is it a racket? LOL ).
>> Woodworkingshows is coming to town soon! : )
>>
>> Bill
>
>
> For actual woodworking i have the 48" and 34" version of the Story
> Stick pro. I use these multiple time on every project. Great for
> transferring an exact measurement, what ever it might be, from the
> actual project to the saw for perfect length cuts. I use it to lay
> out reference lines on both ends of the track for my track saw.
That's a clever application for it. I think you meant to type 48" and
24". I am planning to look at the 24" one (as you brought it to my
attention a few weeks ago).

Bill


> The story stick pro reflects setting measurements on both sides of the
> measure. Useable on both sides at the same time.

In article <[email protected]>,
G.W.Ross <[email protected]> wrote:
<<...snipped...>> i
>
>I bought a SS 24" rule from Lee Valley mainly for drawing straight lines
>for bandsaw work. It is straight as far as I can tell, but LV advised
>me that it was not intended for that, they suggested that I buy a
>certified straight edge. I resisted.
>

I think you made the right choice for your intended use. Even of the
rule is off a few thousandths compared to the "certified" straightedge over
it's 24 inch length, how much difference would it make to a band saw cut?

--
The best argument against democracy is a five-minute conversation
with the average voter. (Winston Churchill)

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org

Let me rephrase my question:

My only "fine measuring stick" is a 12" Starrett combination square.

Do I need more tools for setting up an 8" jointer or table saw properly?

Bill

On 1/17/2013 10:24 AM, Bill wrote:
>
> Let me rephrase my question:
>
> My only "fine measuring stick" is a 12" Starrett combination square.
>
> Do I need more tools for setting up an 8" jointer or table saw properly?
>
> Bill
>


These look dandy:

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=50074&cat=1,240,45313

38" appropriate for a jointer having a 72" bed and a TS?

Also available in steel at twice the price.

Bill

On 1/17/2013 10:38 AM, Leon wrote:
> On 1/17/2013 9:24 AM, Bill wrote:
>>
>> Let me rephrase my question:
>>
>> My only "fine measuring stick" is a 12" Starrett combination square.
>>
>> Do I need more tools for setting up an 8" jointer or table saw properly?
>>
>> Bill
>>
>
>
> Depending on the quality of your equipment you need to be able to
> measure in the thousands of an inch. For example to measure your
> TS blade being parallel to the miter slot and the fence parallel to the
> blade you are shooting for as close to perfectly parallel as you can
> get. Dial indicators which measure much smaller increments helps you
> get there especially when setting the miter slot to the blade. Typically
> rip fences are very easy to adjust in small increments and results are
> easily seen by your eye so in this case I never use a measuring devise
> to set the fence parallel to the blade.


Thanks, I already got have a dial indicator too. Obviously, the
straight-edge is just for aligning the adjacent tables.

Ar article I read suggested "at least 24 straight-edge" for the jointer.

Bill

On 1/17/13 9:24 AM, Bill wrote:
>
> Let me rephrase my question:
>
> My only "fine measuring stick" is a 12" Starrett combination square.
>
> Do I need more tools for setting up an 8" jointer or table saw properly?
>
> Bill
>

Not it it cuts true. :-)
Just be sure the combo square is square. If it's a Starrett, it
probably is. It's tough to find generics that are actually square.
"get what you pay for" and all.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 1/17/13 9:43 AM, Bill wrote:
>
> http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=50074&cat=1,240,45313
>
> 38" appropriate for a jointer having a 72" bed and a TS?
>
> Also available in steel at twice the price.
>
> Bill

I got the 38 when it was on sale and I've been very pleased with it.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Swingman wrote:
> On 1/17/2013 9:24 AM, Bill wrote:
>>
>> Let me rephrase my question:
>>
>> My only "fine measuring stick" is a 12" Starrett combination square.
>>
>> Do I need more tools for setting up an 8" jointer or table saw properly?
>
> Depends upon the tool being setup, and to a point, the precision to
> which it is capable of being setup.
>
> IOW, a high quality cabinet saw or jointer may allow more precision
> than most of the cheaper contractor saws or jointers ...


I don't know how highly you regard Grizzly. But's that's the direction
I'm heading (Models G0690 TS, and G0490 jointer). I even made a special
trip to their showroom last summer while I was driving through MO--and
got the T-shirt.

Lew Hodgett wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>
>> Let me rephrase my question:
>>
>> My only "fine measuring stick" is a 12" Starrett combination square.
>>
>> Do I need more tools for setting up an 8" jointer or table saw
>> properly?
> -------------------------------------------------------------------------
> I would not try to set cutter knives parallel to feed tables on a
> jointer,
> unless I had the magnetic jig sold for the purpose.
>
> Life is just to short to try to do otherwise.
>
> Lew
>
>
Thank you. I will learn about the jig.

One of the features of Grizzly's "parallelogram" jointer, supposedly a
step-up
than the standard/traditional design, is that the infeed and outfeed tables
are supposed to say parallel, even after adjustments, after the jointer
is set up the first time.
The infeed and outfeed tables move together. The Lee Valley 38-inch
straight-edge ($40) will probably
come in handy for more things than I can anticipate.

Bill

On 1/18/2013 1:37 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>
>>
>> Let me rephrase my question:
>>
>> My only "fine measuring stick" is a 12" Starrett combination square.
>>
>> Do I need more tools for setting up an 8" jointer or table saw
>> properly?
> -------------------------------------------------------------------------
> I would not try to set cutter knives parallel to feed tables on a
> jointer, unless I had the magnetic jig sold for the purpose.
...

_Presuming_ the jointer has the indexing hole/jig of the
Delta/Powermatic, and ideally, the spring at the bottom of the blade
against which it will sit to hold it up while adjusting, then all that
is needed is a straight edge, preferably a hardwood block that you can
use to check against.

Raise the infeed table to _precisely_ even w/ the outfeed and since the
knife should be at TDC owing to the indexing, all you need is to hold
the knife down at the level w/ the block and tighten. Do it uniformly
across the beds as pushing one end down causes the other to raise, of
course.

You can easily make a magnetic setting tool--Radio Shack has a set of
roughly 3/4"x 1" rare earth magnets--forget the number in the set but
get six. Again start w/ a piece of hardwood (hard maple/beech/etc.) and
make two pieces w/ a straight, smooth surface of roughly 8-10" length
and couple inches wide or so for convenience. Place the magnets on the
infeed or outfeed table, one at each end of your pieces and one towards
one end removed enough from the end that it will cover the knife
location when the two ends are in place on the infeed/outfeed table w/o
hitting either. Use a dab of RTV to glue them in place and when
thoroughly dry--voila! a jig as good as the commercial at a fraction of
the cost.

Since the table is the reference surface, the magnets are as
straight/flat as the table surface and any small imperfection in your
mounting blocks is taken up by the RTV.

--

Leon wrote:
> On 1/18/2013 2:40 PM, Bill wrote:
>> Lew Hodgett wrote:
>>> Bill wrote:
>>>
>>>> Let me rephrase my question:
>>>>
>>>> My only "fine measuring stick" is a 12" Starrett combination square.
>>>>
>>>> Do I need more tools for setting up an 8" jointer or table saw
>>>> properly?
>>> -------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>
>>> I would not try to set cutter knives parallel to feed tables on a
>>> jointer,
>>> unless I had the magnetic jig sold for the purpose.
>>>
>>> Life is just to short to try to do otherwise.
>>>
>>> Lew
>>>
>>>
>> Thank you. I will learn about the jig.
>>
>> One of the features of Grizzly's "parallelogram" jointer, supposedly a
>> step-up
>> than the standard/traditional design, is that the infeed and outfeed
>> tables
>> are supposed to say parallel, even after adjustments, after the jointer
>> is set up the first time.
>> The infeed and outfeed tables move together. The Lee Valley 38-inch
>> straight-edge ($40) will probably
>> come in handy for more things than I can anticipate.
>>
>> Bill
>>
>>
> I dont recall which one you looking at but you should strongly
> consider the spiral cutter head.
> Thinking a little further, look at the Griz jointers with the carbide
> cutters. These stay sharp a long time can have their cutting surfaces
> renewed by rotating them up to 4 times and require no measuring what
> so ever then renewing or replacing the cutting tips.
Here they are: the G0490 and G0490X. The later is $325 more.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/category/450000

All this to face *one side* of a piece of wood. ; )
I hope someone likes my work enough to keep me building!

Bill

Bill wrote:
> Turns out Woodpecker has two 24"rules,
> one mainly for measuring ($30) and one mainly for
> setting up tools($40)-it's called SERX. Both are Aluminum.
>
> Can anyone shed anymorelight on this (Is it a racket? LOL ).
> Woodworkingshows is coming to town soon! : )
>
> Bill

I went to the Woodworkingshows event today and ended up getting
Woodpecker's 24" woodworking rule (it just "feels good" and heavy).
I went back to the booth later and got the "rule stop". They practically
had to pry the credit card out of my hand for that--but "accessorizing"
the rule felt right--and the
rule stop will help me make use of the rule that much more.
I ordering the 38" Straight-edge from Lee Valley. LV didn't bring one
to the show, but they
are taking care of shipping and sales tax (for all orders placed at the
show). Also ordered their "Chemical
Splash Goggles", a polycarbonate, that are able to go over regular
glasses to use as safety glasses.
They are supposed to be "fog free" and I am hopeful they will work out.

The show was good. I thought the presentation by "The Coach", Andy
Chidwick, on wood-bending was
particularly informative. He has a school in Montana. Roland Johnson
had a lot of information about bandsaws and bandsaw blades too.
He pointed out that he wrote a book on them, and it looks like one I may
collect down the road (Taunton had alot of their books for
sale, all the full suggested retail price).

Across the steet, folks lined the building by the hundreds all day
(surely, many thousands in all), to get into the "Gun Show".
With Obama doing what he is doing, there is alot of interest in the 2nd
Ammendment!
There was reportedly more gun show attendees than ever--by a landslide.
And I have a hunch folks are buying.
According to the news, someone shot themselves in the hand, by accident,
in the parking lot as they were leaving.

Watch for the Woodworkingshows if it comes to your area. Lee Valley has
some nice stuff to see! ; )
I pick up some of the same tools at their booth every year, it's like
they are becoming old friends! lol

Cheers,
Bill