Someone suggested posting our sketchup "creations". I think that's a
useful idea. Here's my latest effort, yet another revision of the end table:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/12033692776/in/set-72157639547178715
I like the ability to apply textures to the surfaces; I get different
ideas when I see something that looks like wood. But the built-in wood
textures are pretty substandard. I substituted a couple of photos of my
own; details from my own projects.
That worked OK, but I quickly noted that the grain really has to go in
the right direction. So I rotated one of the photos to make a "vertical"
texture. But then I had another problem: Unlike some of Leon's drawings,
mine still looked very one-dimensional. Using the same texture on all
six sides of a board made it difficult to see the edges without turning
on "edges". I then discovered that I could adjust the color of the
material. I made a slightly darker version and applied that to two
opposing faces of each component. That made the edges easier to see.
So here's the "uh-oh" part. Although still rudimentary, with the help of
several folks here, my Sketchup skills have progressed, enough that I
can now design things I'm not sure I can build. :)
In my previous design, the legs, rails and spindles would all have been
in one plane. I decided I'd prefer to have them set off a bit instead.
But I'm practically limited to available lumber dimensions, at least for
narrow stuff (no table saw). So I decided to try the legs as 2x2s, the
rails as 1x2s and the spindles as 1.5"x.5".
www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/12033693506/in/set-72157639547178715/
By substituting 2x2 legs for the previous design (a 2x3 and a 1x3 in an
"L") and offsetting the rails, I now need to bite a square out of each
corner of the shelves:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/12033232774/in/set-72157639547178715
I'm not sure of the best way to do that. I have a back saw, a
finer-toothed "reversible" saw I bought years ago for flush-cutting
dowels (it has a "back", not flexible) and a jig saw. I suppose I could
even get the router table into the action, trimming a rough hand-cut to
be exact.
Any suggestions?
On 1/19/2014 7:39 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> On 1/19/2014 12:42 PM, Leon wrote:
>> On 1/19/2014 11:09 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
>>> Someone suggested posting our sketchup "creations". I think that's a
>>> useful idea. Here's my latest effort, yet another revision of the end
>>> table:
>>>
>>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/12033692776/in/set-72157639547178715
>>>
>>>
>>
>> Nothing wrong with that!
>>
>> A hint here, if you turn the shadows off you free up a lot of resources
>> on your computer.
>
> I only added the shadows at the end. Most of the drawing was done
> monochrome. And these days the computers in our house are pretty fast.
>
>>> I like the ability to apply textures to the surfaces; I get different
>>> ideas when I see something that looks like wood. But the built-in wood
>>> textures are pretty substandard. I substituted a couple of photos of my
>>> own; details from my own projects.
>>>
>>> That worked OK, but I quickly noted that the grain really has to go in
>>> the right direction. So I rotated one of the photos to make a "vertical"
>>> texture. But then I had another problem: Unlike some of Leon's drawings,
>>> mine still looked very one-dimensional. Using the same texture on all
>>> six sides of a board made it difficult to see the edges without turning
>>> on "edges". I then discovered that I could adjust the color of the
>>> material. I made a slightly darker version and applied that to two
>>> opposing faces of each component. That made the edges easier to see.
>>
>> You basically need two different material orientation directionless,
>> vertical and horizontal
>
>> I have a boat load of wood materials with both orientations. I can send
>> them to you via e-mail if you wish. 1.6 mg total.
>
> Sure! I wonder if those samples will eventually cost me money though ...
> after I get "hooked" the fancier wood in the drawings. :)
You Got Mail
>
>
> I'm not sure of the best way to do that. I have a back saw, a
>
> finer-toothed "reversible" saw I bought years ago for flush-cutting
>
> dowels (it has a "back", not flexible) and a jig saw. I suppose I could
>
> even get the router table into the action, trimming a rough hand-cut to
>
> be exact.
>
>
>
> Any suggestions?
I never liked "captured" shelves like that. How will you account for expansion? Will the shelves be a panel that floats in a slot? What about gaps when you are in the dry season.
If you look at many/most classic designs you won't find that detail.
One idea is to just not have any lower stretchers and notch both the legs and shelves at the corners the fit together. You can angle a pocket screw in from the bottom (Stickley did it that way sometimes).
The other idea is to have the shelf sit over the top of the stretchers. It can terminate flush with the stretchers, flush with the legs or stick out past both a smidge.
"Greg Guarino" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]
> Someone suggested posting our sketchup "creations". I
> think that's a useful idea. Here's my latest effort, yet another
> revision of the end table:
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/12033692776/in/set-72157639547178715
>
> I like the ability to apply textures to the surfaces; I
> get different ideas when I see something that looks like wood. But the
> built-in wood textures are pretty substandard. I
> substituted a couple of photos of my own; details from my
> own projects.
> That worked OK, but I quickly noted that the grain really
> has to go in the right direction. So I rotated one of the photos to
> make a "vertical" texture. But then I had another
> problem: Unlike some of Leon's drawings, mine still
> looked very one-dimensional. Using the same texture on
> all six sides of a board made it difficult to see the edges
> without turning on "edges". I then discovered that I could adjust the
> color of the material. I made a slightly darker version
> and applied that to two opposing faces of each component. That made the
> edges
> easier to see.
> So here's the "uh-oh" part. Although still rudimentary,
> with the help of several folks here, my Sketchup skills
> have progressed, enough that I can now design things I'm not sure I can
> build. :)
>
> In my previous design, the legs, rails and spindles would
> all have been in one plane. I decided I'd prefer to have them set off a
> bit instead. But I'm practically limited to available lumber
> dimensions, at least for narrow stuff (no table saw). So
> I decided to try the legs as 2x2s, the rails as 1x2s and
> the spindles as 1.5"x.5".
> www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/12033693506/in/set-72157639547178715/
>
> By substituting 2x2 legs for the previous design (a 2x3
> and a 1x3 in an "L") and offsetting the rails, I now need
> to bite a square out of each corner of the shelves:
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/12033232774/in/set-72157639547178715
>
> I'm not sure of the best way to do that. I have a back
> saw, a finer-toothed "reversible" saw I bought years ago for
> flush-cutting dowels (it has a "back", not flexible) and a jig saw. I
> suppose I could even get the router table into the
> action, trimming a rough hand-cut to be exact.
>
> Any suggestions?
Get a dozuki.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
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Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net
On 1/19/2014 12:42 PM, Leon wrote:
> On 1/19/2014 11:09 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
>> Someone suggested posting our sketchup "creations". I think that's a
>> useful idea. Here's my latest effort, yet another revision of the end
>> table:
>>
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/12033692776/in/set-72157639547178715
>>
>
> Nothing wrong with that!
>
> A hint here, if you turn the shadows off you free up a lot of resources
> on your computer.
I only added the shadows at the end. Most of the drawing was done
monochrome. And these days the computers in our house are pretty fast.
>> I like the ability to apply textures to the surfaces; I get different
>> ideas when I see something that looks like wood. But the built-in wood
>> textures are pretty substandard. I substituted a couple of photos of my
>> own; details from my own projects.
>>
>> That worked OK, but I quickly noted that the grain really has to go in
>> the right direction. So I rotated one of the photos to make a "vertical"
>> texture. But then I had another problem: Unlike some of Leon's drawings,
>> mine still looked very one-dimensional. Using the same texture on all
>> six sides of a board made it difficult to see the edges without turning
>> on "edges". I then discovered that I could adjust the color of the
>> material. I made a slightly darker version and applied that to two
>> opposing faces of each component. That made the edges easier to see.
>
> You basically need two different material orientation directionless,
> vertical and horizontal
> I have a boat load of wood materials with both orientations. I can send
> them to you via e-mail if you wish. 1.6 mg total.
Sure! I wonder if those samples will eventually cost me money though ...
after I get "hooked" the fancier wood in the drawings. :)
>>
>> So here's the "uh-oh" part. Although still rudimentary, with the help of
>> several folks here, my Sketchup skills have progressed, enough that I
>> can now design things I'm not sure I can build. :)
>>
>> In my previous design, the legs, rails and spindles would all have been
>> in one plane. I decided I'd prefer to have them set off a bit instead.
>> But I'm practically limited to available lumber dimensions, at least for
>> narrow stuff (no table saw). So I decided to try the legs as 2x2s, the
>> rails as 1x2s and the spindles as 1.5"x.5".
>>
>> www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/12033693506/in/set-72157639547178715/
>>
>> By substituting 2x2 legs for the previous design (a 2x3 and a 1x3 in an
>> "L") and offsetting the rails, I now need to bite a square out of each
>> corner of the shelves:
>>
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/12033232774/in/set-72157639547178715
>>
>>
>> I'm not sure of the best way to do that. I have a back saw, a
>> finer-toothed "reversible" saw I bought years ago for flush-cutting
>> dowels (it has a "back", not flexible) and a jig saw. I suppose I could
>> even get the router table into the action, trimming a rough hand-cut to
>> be exact.
>>
>> Any suggestions?
>>
>
> I would use a jig saw with a speed square to guide the edge of the foot.
> I do this all the time. The trick is to use a smooth cutting blade.
> Bosch for instance.
I hardly ever use the jigsaws I have. I'd have to see if either of them
seems in good enough shape. But I never saw anything without some sort
of fence, so that much is covered. I'll probably do what I always do:
make more test pieces.
On 1/19/2014 1:50 PM, dadiOH wrote:
> "Greg Guarino" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> Get a dozuki.
>
I've seen those. Do they have advantages over other fine-toothed
"backed" saws?
"Greg Guarino" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]
> On 1/19/2014 1:50 PM, dadiOH wrote:
> > "Greg Guarino" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> >
> > Get a dozuki.
> >
> I've seen those. Do they have advantages over other
> fine-toothed "backed" saws?
Yes. They cut on the pull and are very sharp and very thin. It is easy to
make accurate straight line cuts with them. It is also very easy to shave
off 1/16th. Or even 1/32nd.
On the negative side, the teeth are pretty tender and it isn't hard to break
them off.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net
On 1/19/2014 11:41 PM, Leon wrote:
>> Sure! I wonder if those samples will eventually cost me money though ...
>> after I get "hooked" the fancier wood in the drawings. :)
>
> You Got Mail
Wow. A whole lumber yard in my inbox. I can already see my "prediction"
above coming true. Thanks.
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On 1/19/2014 12:50 PM, Swingman wrote:
> On 1/19/2014 11:09 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
>> By substituting 2x2 legs for the previous design (a 2x3 and a 1x3 in an
>> "L") and offsetting the rails, I now need to bite a square out of each
>> corner of the shelves:
>>
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/12033232774/in/set-72157639547178715
>>
>>
>> I'm not sure of the best way to do that. I have a back saw, a
>> finer-toothed "reversible" saw I bought years ago for flush-cutting
>> dowels (it has a "back", not flexible) and a jig saw. I suppose I could
>> even get the router table into the action, trimming a rough hand-cut to
>> be exact.
>>
>> Any suggestions?
>
> Don't have a fear of using a good handsaw to perform that operation.
> Just do some practicing beforehand on project scrap beforehand so you
> get a feel of how that particular wood cuts with the saw you're using.
I'm leaning toward cutting the corners by hand. At lest the cuts would
be straight. I'm not sure I currently have the proper saw though. I have
a regular backsaw, which is probably too coarse. And I have one of those
reversible-hand flush-cutting saws (with a back, it's not flexible)That
one makes a reasonably decent cut, but the slightly offset handle never
feels quite right for making "regular" cuts. (It's OK for trimming
dowels).
> That said, in this model is another option for mounting shelves between
> table legs using cleats, a time honored method of old time furniture
> makers:
>
> http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=c06f1cb96170e548b2c2cd006d206129&prevstart=0
I thought I replied to this the other day.
That's an interesting option, having no trim on the long edges of the
shelves. I wonder if it might look a little "insubstantial" with such
narrow shelves (which would be even narrower without the corner cuts and
the trim). Maybe I'll draw it out and see. I've progressed to the point
where I could do that in a reasonable amount of time and with most of my
(remaining) sanity intact. Thanks again.
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On 1/20/2014 5:24 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> I'm not sure of the best way to do that. I have a back saw, a
>>
>> finer-toothed "reversible" saw I bought years ago for flush-cutting
>>
>> dowels (it has a "back", not flexible) and a jig saw. I suppose I could
>>
>> even get the router table into the action, trimming a rough hand-cut to
>>
>> be exact.
>>
>>
>>
>> Any suggestions?
>
> I never liked "captured" shelves like that. How will you account for expansion? Will the shelves be a panel that floats in a slot? What about gaps when you are in the dry season.
>
> If you look at many/most classic designs you won't find that detail.
>
> One idea is to just not have any lower stretchers and notch both the legs and shelves at the corners the fit together. You can angle a pocket screw in from the bottom (Stickley did it that way sometimes).
>
> The other idea is to have the shelf sit over the top of the stretchers. It can terminate flush with the stretchers, flush with the legs or stick out past both a smidge.
>
The shelves and top will all be plywood of some kind. I may eventually
try my hand at gluing up a panel from solid wood boards, but my skill
level, tool complement and free time make stuff that's already straight
and flat an attractive option for now. On top of that, I rather like the
look of a hardwood border.
On 1/19/2014 11:09 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> By substituting 2x2 legs for the previous design (a 2x3 and a 1x3 in an
> "L") and offsetting the rails, I now need to bite a square out of each
> corner of the shelves:
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/12033232774/in/set-72157639547178715
>
> I'm not sure of the best way to do that. I have a back saw, a
> finer-toothed "reversible" saw I bought years ago for flush-cutting
> dowels (it has a "back", not flexible) and a jig saw. I suppose I could
> even get the router table into the action, trimming a rough hand-cut to
> be exact.
>
> Any suggestions?
Don't have a fear of using a good handsaw to perform that operation.
Just do some practicing beforehand on project scrap beforehand so you
get a feel of how that particular wood cuts with the saw you're using.
That said, in this model is another option for mounting shelves between
table legs using cleats, a time honored method of old time furniture makers:
http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=c06f1cb96170e548b2c2cd006d206129&prevstart=0
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On 1/19/2014 11:09 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> Someone suggested posting our sketchup "creations". I think that's a
> useful idea. Here's my latest effort, yet another revision of the end
> table:
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/12033692776/in/set-72157639547178715
Nothing wrong with that!
A hint here, if you turn the shadows off you free up a lot of resources
on your computer.
>
> I like the ability to apply textures to the surfaces; I get different
> ideas when I see something that looks like wood. But the built-in wood
> textures are pretty substandard. I substituted a couple of photos of my
> own; details from my own projects.
>
> That worked OK, but I quickly noted that the grain really has to go in
> the right direction. So I rotated one of the photos to make a "vertical"
> texture. But then I had another problem: Unlike some of Leon's drawings,
> mine still looked very one-dimensional. Using the same texture on all
> six sides of a board made it difficult to see the edges without turning
> on "edges". I then discovered that I could adjust the color of the
> material. I made a slightly darker version and applied that to two
> opposing faces of each component. That made the edges easier to see.
You basically need two different material orientation directionless,
vertical and horizontal.
I have a boat load of wood materials with both orientations. I can send
them to you via e-mail if you wish. 1.6 mg total.
>
> So here's the "uh-oh" part. Although still rudimentary, with the help of
> several folks here, my Sketchup skills have progressed, enough that I
> can now design things I'm not sure I can build. :)
>
> In my previous design, the legs, rails and spindles would all have been
> in one plane. I decided I'd prefer to have them set off a bit instead.
> But I'm practically limited to available lumber dimensions, at least for
> narrow stuff (no table saw). So I decided to try the legs as 2x2s, the
> rails as 1x2s and the spindles as 1.5"x.5".
>
> www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/12033693506/in/set-72157639547178715/
>
> By substituting 2x2 legs for the previous design (a 2x3 and a 1x3 in an
> "L") and offsetting the rails, I now need to bite a square out of each
> corner of the shelves:
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/12033232774/in/set-72157639547178715
>
> I'm not sure of the best way to do that. I have a back saw, a
> finer-toothed "reversible" saw I bought years ago for flush-cutting
> dowels (it has a "back", not flexible) and a jig saw. I suppose I could
> even get the router table into the action, trimming a rough hand-cut to
> be exact.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
I would use a jig saw with a speed square to guide the edge of the foot.
I do this all the time. The trick is to use a smooth cutting blade.
Bosch for instance.